[PART 2] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Closed, but Public sales open!

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JasonWW
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Newlumen wrote:
I was told Sony VTC6 are the best for boost driver or FET.

There are a lot of high drain cells that are all pretty close to each other. If you look a HJK’s comparator you see the VTC6 and 30Q are pretty much the same, even at 15A.

For heavy loads it seems the general rule is you want the less voltage drop for the particular load you are running to get the most power.

FET drivers are a bit unique because turbo is direct drive. So you really need to match the battery to the emitters voltage characteristics. A VTC6 might burn up the certain led, while a 35E high capacity might not. So you have to get the right combo.

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sp5it
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Do we have any progress with broken parts replacement?
Sad, that that such a big company is burying head in the sand.
Mike

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JasonWW
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sp5it wrote:
Do we have any progress with broken parts replacement?
Sad, that that such a big company is burying head in the sand.
Mike

None of this info is going through me or TA. Lumintop (maybe Neal) should be contacting the people directly to sort out the issues.

Although… I did ask everyone on the Issues list if they heard from Lumintop or Neal last week. I have not from 3 people, yet. Here is the results so far:

sp5it – no contact from LT
zelee – no contact from LT
FreeMagenta – ???
Bruno28 – no contact from LT
VRT – ???
Tete – no contact from LT
Jimmy007 – no contact from LT
k125bw – no contact from LT
Dustynell – ???
Chito – Neal contacted him on the 8th, but instead of trying to send replacement parts, he offered a $10 refund. That is not a proper solution to a light damaged in shipping (registered box).

Maliblue recieved his missing light so I removed him from the list.

Leo at Lumintop is supposed to be handling these issues, but he did not contact anyone on the Issues list last week. Shocked

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sp5it wrote:
Do we have any progress with broken parts replacement? Sad, that that such a big company is burying head in the sand. Mike

That really sad

I think they (LT) must finishing BLF GT group buy before start blf GT70 group buy.

Hope TA can help people that still not received GT or acc and broken parts.

Look like he have contact with LT / Neal in GT70 thread about update on the search for the XHP70.2.

Good luck for you and people in “issues list “

Texas_Ace
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I sent them another reminder about these issues just now, I am not sure why it is taking so long.

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there is no response from neal or leo (lumintop)
and i was planned to use it on my birthday and that was today Sad

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Texas_Ace
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zelee wrote:
there is no response from neal or leo (lumintop) and i was planned to use it on my birthday and that was today Sad

I am very sorry to hear that, I contacted them again last night and they said they would get in touch with people. Hopefully they follow through.

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Here are the pics of Chito’s shipping damaged GT.

It’s not as bad as Sp5it’s, but still pretty bad.

Here are Sp5it’s pics from the old thread dated March 6.

If this were my light, I would file, bend or cut away the metal lip so I could at least screw the battery tube in while I’m waiting on a replacement part to fix it. It must suck not being able to try it out.

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Yep… there is no doubt these people are way past due getting taken care of!!

But I’m like you Jason, I would have done whatever it took to use my GT during the wait….. A little bending, prying, and/or cutting….. that bad boy would have been shining. Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile

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Longtom
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I might have an issue.

I finally got around to measuring the lumen value of my GT, and it’s only coming in at around 1400 lumen, repeated. I’ve so far double checked the batteries, and compared some other lights, which measured as expected, such as a TN42 that measured at 1850 lumen.

Isn’t it supposed to be more like 2000 lumen?

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I’m not sure what the lumens are meant to be but did you double click for Turbo?

 

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Longtom
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Yes. I double checked to make sure.

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Was there any difference between hi and turbo?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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JasonWW
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Longtom wrote:
I might have an issue.

I finally got around to measuring the lumen value of my GT, and it’s only coming in at around 1400 lumen, repeated. I’ve so far double checked the batteries, and compared some other lights, which measured as expected, such as a TN42 that measured at 1850 lumen.

Isn’t it supposed to be more like 2000 lumen?


We know the GT driver puts out 2.5A and the reflector and lens are a fairly constant percentage of loss. One actual variable is the emitter. Even though all the GT’s use a D4 bin, Cree allows for a 14% tolerance in output.

So as long as your batteries are good enough to keep the led in the regulated output mode (2.5A) all the GT’s should measure within 14% of each other.

The TN42 only puts out 2A to its xhp35-HI, so it’s strange it would measure a higher lumen output.

I’ve got a TA Lumen tube, but the GT is too big to fit the opening. I can swap a smaller reflector on it and measure 2200 lumen, but that should be a little on the high side as the big stock reflector has a bit higher loss. So a would put it closer to the 1900 range.

Most other people measure about 1800 to 2000 lumen.

Another variable is whether your lux meter is sensitive to different color temps. A lot of them are less sensitive to warmer tints. If your TN42 is CW, then your meter is going to automatically read disproportionate high compared to the NW led in the GT.

The biggest variable is of course how you measure it. You would need to tell us in detail how your measuring your lights.

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Longtom
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MRsDNF – That’s interesting, and I’m glad you brought that up. I just tested that, and came up with 1430 lumen for (double click) turbo, and 1344 lumens for “press and hold” full brightness. The time between the two test might only represent voltage drop, as I used the same charge.
What does that mean?

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JasonWW,

Thanks for your response. I’m using a 180 degree bend 7 inch PVC pipe setup, meticulously sanded on the inside, with a clean, scratch free plexiglass window silicone glued in place, and calibrated for margin of error to 2 known value flashlights in 2 settings each, and averaged. I use white cloth packed around the reflector head during testing. It’s the best I could come up with without going nuts.

So far, I’ve tested 32 flashlights with this. One that I trust is an Olight Valkyrie which was rated for 400 lumen, and tested to 399. Another is a Thrunite TH10, which is rated for 825, and tested showed 903. My BLF Q8 tested to 5076. Solarforce and other oddball brands usually test far below rated lumen values. I don’t trust those ones.

On lights, I use VTC4 or Samsung 25R from known good suppliers, and I have heaps of them. (The GT blinks out 4.2v, prior)

You’re probably correct about warmer light, but I most always choose 4k-5k light on flashlights. I dislike blueish light.

The meter I’m using is a Dr Lux LX1330B, and the window on the other side is cut to match the size of the light collector on the meter, which is fixed in place during testing.

I have not conducted a beam test on the light at range, because I stopped as soon as I got the low reading, double and triple checked, and then came straight here to ask for advice.

My setup is very similar to this guy’s setup. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2Dbmz8WXmE

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Longtom wrote:
I might have an issue.

I finally got around to measuring the lumen value of my GT, and it’s only coming in at around 1400 lumen, repeated. I’ve so far double checked the batteries, and compared some other lights, which measured as expected, such as a TN42 that measured at 1850 lumen.

Isn’t it supposed to be more like 2000 lumen?


I have found a Problem with my Lumenbox. Throwers and extreme High-Lumen Lights shows too less Lumens on the higher output levels. I compared the lower levels with new readings in my guests toilette and calculated the higher output levels with this. Afterwards my readings were near other readings.
Perhaps you have a similar problem.

I have measured 1925 Lumen with changed LED (XHP35 HI E2-3C) and without Reflector on my Lumenbox. Reflector is too big for me, too.
Mostly, my readings are on the lower end, but I think my box is good calibrated.
.
.
.
.
Edit:

With dead Emitter (one dead die), I have measured 1400 Lumen (without reflector) and 1270 Lumen on max ramp (without reflector): http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1283157#comment-1283157

Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Last two pics with the same orientation. You can see the bonding wires.
JasonWW
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Just a bunch of notes:

Advanced Knife Bro is Mhanlen on BLF.

Just an open tube like that can cause throwy lights to read a bit higher than floody lights. They don’t really seem to diffuse the beam.

If you want a reference light to calibrate your own lumen tube, Maukka is selling some. More details here.

Okay, back to your situation:

Even if your lumen tube and calibration were off, I would still think the GT would read higher output than the TN42. Is your TN42 also NW?

One thing I’ve noticed about the GT is that it’s huge reflector moves the led a lot further away from the lumen tube opening which reduces brightness in the tube.

Also, the large reflector tends to absorb more of the leds output than a smaller reflector.

Maybe if we could measure the raw leds or use the same reflector on both lights, we would see the GT have a bit higher lumen output.

The bottom line is it’s a difficult light to measure lumens on.

There shouldn’t be any doubt the GT throws further. The TN42 is in the 600kcd to 700kcd range and the GT should be in the 1mcd to 1.3mcd range. I would go ahead and measure that. If you see this same big gap then your GT is doing higher lumens than your lumen tube is reading.

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I decided to measure my GT lumens 3 different ways using my TA Lumen Tube (.68) which only has a 3.5” opening.

First is to just overlap the light on the tube. This blocks a lot of the output and is not accurate at all.
High 1130 lm
Turbo 1250 lm

Next I removed the reflector and stuck the lower head into the tube. Also very inaccurate.

High 1290 lm
Turbo 1420 lm

Lastly I used an OP reflector from an L6 (no lens, which might make my reading 3% higher) and got what I think is a pretty realistic number.

High 2000 lm
Turbo 2180 lm

I’m pretty sure a lens and the stock reflector would knock down the turbo to under 2000 lumen. Once I get my calibration light from Maukka I’ll temporarily adapt a larger opening to the TA Tube and figure out the multiplier number. Then hopefully I can measure it with the stock reflector and lens. At least I hope I can.

Anyway, this just goes to show how difficult it is to measure lumens when you don’t have a $10k+ professional integrating sphere.

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Longtom
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JasonWW – Thanks! I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the help.
The TN42 measured 15700 lux when I measured it.

Do you know what the voltage at the emitter should be? I managed to get the head off the thing last night, and it’s 14.9v on “high” and 15.65v on “Turbo,” at 0.23A DC. Is that correct?

I took your idea with the short reflector, and used aluminum foil with a hole cut in it, and the emitter directly over the pipe, and the best I could manage was 1501 lumens.

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What do your throw numbers show at 10m with the GT?

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Longtom wrote:
JasonWW – Thanks! I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the help.
The TN42 measured 15700 lux when I measured it.

Do you know what the voltage at the emitter should be? I managed to get the head off the thing last night, and it’s 14.9v on “high” and 15.65v on “Turbo,” at 0.23A DC. Is that correct?

I took your idea with the short reflector, and used aluminum foil with a hole cut in it, and the emitter directly over the pipe, and the best I could manage was 1501 lumens.


Are you realy shure that all dies on the LED are ok an not like mine in the pictures above?
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Longtom wrote:

Do you know what the voltage at the emitter should be? I managed to get the head off the thing last night, and it’s 14.9v on “high” and 15.65v on “Turbo,” at 0.23A DC. Is that correct?

I took your idea with the short reflector, and used aluminum foil with a hole cut in it, and the emitter directly over the pipe, and the best I could manage was 1501 lumens.


I checked my voltage and yours is higher than mine. I got 14.6v on high and 15.3v on turbo.

To check the amperage you would need to unsolder one of the LED wires and either extend one and use a clamp style ammeter or you could put a multimeter style ammeter inline with the two wires. The clamp style is usually more accurate. You should be seeing around 2 amp on High and 2.5 amp on Turbo.

Do you know how to measure the candela at 1 meter?

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JasonWW wrote:
Do you know how to measure the candela at 1 meter?

1 meter is not nearly enough for the GT, 10m is much better and makes the math easy as well.

Longtom
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Oh that’s s pulse modulated driver, isn’t it?

Texas_Ace – That’s a good idea. I will do 10m as requested. Here is the result of that test:
10m = 10.9 yards = 32.8ft. I got 10500 lux, (double click turbo) centered on the collector.
Does that sound correct?

Wieselflinkpro – Yes. I’m sure. If I put the light on moonlight, I can look at it, but I wish I had some welding glass, so I could look at it on Turbo.

JasonWW – Yes, I did de-solder one of the wires, and I double checked my meter was on DC. I have a Fluke 87v. But, like I said, that’s a pulse modulated driver, isn’t it? I’m not going to get an accurate reading unless I record it and measure the pulse widths, right? The duty cycle.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Do you know how to measure the candela at 1 meter?

1 meter is not nearly enough for the GT, 10m is much better and makes the math easy as well.


You misunderstand. We need to know the candela at 1 meter. To get this number we do the actual measurement at a longer distance (5m, 10m, etc…) then calculate it back to 1 meter. I was basically asking Longtom if he knew how to do these calculations.

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Yes, that sounds spot on, that is 1Mcd which depending on the conditions is what I get out of mine as well.

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JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Do you know how to measure the candela at 1 meter?

1 meter is not nearly enough for the GT, 10m is much better and makes the math easy as well.


You misunderstand. We need to know the candela at 1 meter. To get this number we do the actual measurement at a longer distance (5m, 10m, etc…) then calculate it back to 1 meter. I was basically asking Longtom if he knew how to do these calculations.

Ah, Ok that makes more sense. I figured you knew that 1 meter was not enough.

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Texas_Ace, (and everybody else)

ALL IS WELL! Thanks to everybody for the help, and for the lessons learned. Every time I come here, I learn something new. That’s what makes this forum so wonderful.

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Well, Jason did the real work, I just repeated what he said lol.

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