[Sale] 6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

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eas
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It may be a little while before you get a response. Lexel posted elsewhere that he’s having hand surgery done.

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JasonWW
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Maverick1947 wrote:
Hello. I am pretty new to modding lights but have the basic skill set necessary. I want to put a FET driver with NarsilM on my Convoy L6. What will I need exactly? I want one 30mm driver (L6 size right?) with NarsilM and the Low Voltage Protection. That’s 15.5 $ correct? Plus 5$ for shipping tracked and insured. How about springs and wires? What’s the best option for me? Thank you.

If he hasn’t answered yet, you basically have the right idea. 30mm. $15.50 sounds about right. You can reuse the existing led wires if you want or buy extra. You can get a spring if you want or swap the old spring over. He should send you a PM asking for your details and based on your options give you an exact price.

The main thing you need to figure out is what you want as a turn on response. Most NarsilM drivers do two low blinks. You can choose nothing or you can choose turbo. Choosing turbo let’s you use the rear switch to turn on turbo, then you would have to ramp it down or click the side switch.

You can get the standard lvp point and thermal stepdown point. You can reset the thermal stepdown at any time.

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

Maverick1947
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Yeah. I saw that last night. That’s ok. I can wait a bit more. Let’s hope everything goes well with him. Thanks.

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Maverick1947
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JasonWW wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:
Hello. I am pretty new to modding lights but have the basic skill set necessary. I want to put a FET driver with NarsilM on my Convoy L6. What will I need exactly? I want one 30mm driver (L6 size right?) with NarsilM and the Low Voltage Protection. That’s 15.5 $ correct? Plus 5$ for shipping tracked and insured. How about springs and wires? What’s the best option for me? Thank you.

If he hasn’t answered yet, you basically have the right idea. 30mm. $15.50 sounds about right. You can reuse the existing led wires if you want or buy extra. You can get a spring if you want or swap the old spring over. He should send you a PM asking for your details and based on your options give you an exact price.

The main thing you need to figure out is what you want as a turn on response. Most NarsilM drivers do two low blinks. You can choose nothing or you can choose turbo. Choosing turbo let’s you use the rear switch to turn on turbo, then you would have to ramp it down or click the side switch.

You can get the standard lvp point and thermal stepdown point. You can reset the thermal stepdown at any time.


Thanks Jason. I think I don’t want a instant turbo on when pressing the tail switch. Would annoy me too much. I wanna do a backlight switch mod after it and want to have the ability to lock and unlock the light without being blinded with 7000 lumens everytime.

I wanna swap a xhp70.2 as well but do you think it would be ok to use the stock xhp70 with the lexel driver? Just until I can get my hands on the updated version.

There’s no replacement for displacement.

JasonWW
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Maverick1947 wrote:

I wanna do a backlight switch mod after it and want to have the ability to lock and unlock the light without being blinded with 7000 lumens everytime.

I wanna swap a xhp70.2 as well but do you think it would be ok to use the stock xhp70 with the lexel driver? Just until I can get my hands on the updated version.


It sounds like you want the main led to do nothing (NO) at turn on. Only your switch lights will come on. That’s how my mini L6 is. It’s a good setup.

You can either add some leds to the stock switch or have Lexel make you a switch with leds on it.

You can use the stock emitter. Simon uses a DTP mcpcb for the L6. With good batteries it should pull about 12A or so. IIRC.

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

Maverick1947
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JasonWW wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:

I wanna do a backlight switch mod after it and want to have the ability to lock and unlock the light without being blinded with 7000 lumens everytime.

I wanna swap a xhp70.2 as well but do you think it would be ok to use the stock xhp70 with the lexel driver? Just until I can get my hands on the updated version.


It sounds like you want the main led to do nothing (NO) at turn on. Only your switch lights will come on. That’s how my mini L6 is. It’s a good setup.

You can either add some leds to the stock switch or have Lexel make you a switch with leds on it.

You can use the stock emitter. Simon uses a DTP mcpcb for the L6. With good batteries it should pull about 12A or so. IIRC.


Ooh yes! That’s what I want. Just the light switch turning on. Also asking for a new switch with the leds already on it it’s a neat idea. I really don’t wanna buy a roll of 100 leds. Lol. Do you reckon how much would he charge for a switch with 2 red leds on it?

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Jaded
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I thought Lexel’s noble work is temporarily halted or on hold for the time being? The man is going through surgery and we wish him well and fast recovery.

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Jaded wrote:
I thought Lexel’s noble work is temporarily halted or on hold for the time being? The man is going through surgery and we wish him well and fast recovery.

It is. I was made aware of this yesterday night. But it’s ok. I am in no hurry. My L6 is my test subject, if everything goes well I have so many other lights I wanna mod. Next in line is my MF02.

There’s no replacement for displacement.

BlueSwordM
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If you want to buy a driver in the meantime, maybe Texas Ace has something for you.

Jaded
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Same here. I would like to order, too.

JasonWW
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Maverick1947 wrote:

Ooh yes! That’s what I want. Just the light switch turning on. Also asking for a new switch with the leds already on it it’s a neat idea. I really don’t wanna buy a roll of 100 leds. Lol. Do you reckon how much would he charge for a switch with 2 red leds on it?

You don’t have to buy a roll of leds, there are small kits with different colors, like sampler kits, you can buy. The only down side is it comes from China, so it might take 2+ weeks for them to get in.

Lexels L6 switch costs about $3 USD and can have 4 leds on it. Each led has it’s own resistor and he can match the values so all the colors are the same brightness.

Here are some pictures I got from F.i.l.a.s. These are the only pictures I’ve ever seen of his L6 switch. It’s kind of new thing and not well known yet.

You just run one power wire for the leds, one power wire for the switch and one ground wire to it.

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

Maverick1947
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JasonWW wrote:
Maverick1947 wrote:

Ooh yes! That’s what I want. Just the light switch turning on. Also asking for a new switch with the leds already on it it’s a neat idea. I really don’t wanna buy a roll of 100 leds. Lol. Do you reckon how much would he charge for a switch with 2 red leds on it?

You don’t have to buy a roll of leds, there are small kits with different colors, like sampler kits, you can buy. The only down side is it comes from China, so it might take 2+ weeks for them to get in.

Lexels L6 switch costs about $3 USD and can have 4 leds on it. Each led has it’s own resistor and he can match the values so all the colors are the same brightness.

Here are some pictures I got from F.i.l.a.s. These are the only pictures I’ve ever seen of his L6 switch. It’s kind of new thing and not well known yet.

You just run one power wire for the leds, one power wire for the switch and one ground wire to it.


Wow 3$. Almost feels like a steal! Hahaha. Yes I am very interested. As long as it feels the same quality as the Stock L6 switch I’ll be definitely getting one of those. Thanks Jason

There’s no replacement for displacement.

Maverick1947
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BlueSwordM wrote:
If you want to buy a driver in the meantime, maybe Texas Ace has something for you.

The problem with Texas Ace is that he ships it from the US. Shipping will be more expensive than the driver it self. I was looking at MTN Electronics and they have the L6 driver even a bit cheaper but shipping alone was 16$. It’s not worth it.

There’s no replacement for displacement.

BlueSwordM
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Oh sorry forgot you were from Brazil.

I would just order a driver from Simon itself then.

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BlueSwordM wrote:
Oh sorry forgot you were from Brazil.

I would just order a driver from Simon itself then.


I want a FET driver with NarsilM. Simon doesn’t make those unfortunately.

There’s no replacement for displacement.

BlueSwordM
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Hmmmm.

This is problematic indeed.

JasonWW
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Hmmmm.

This is problematic indeed.


It’s no big deal. You just have to wait a bit longer. This is something we are very used to. Big Smile

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

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https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/theshorelinemarket_2537_2773331122#jmui=f%3A14...

https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/theshorelinemarket_2536_22927262#jmui=f%3A1426...

Hi Lexel,

I’m new in BLF, I bought RRT-3 in 2011. It’s a quite powerful flashlight at that moment.
She’s still a good light, I still love her ring control UI as usual. Buy now days, 1950lumens seem a bit under power for such a ‘big’ light.

I would like to upgrade my Jetbeam Raptor RRT-3 to
XHP50.2 × 3 (original mcpcb is xm-l t6 ×3 in series)
Hopefully you may offer a suitable driver for this mods?

Thank you.

No Mods No Life

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I would first try to boost the output with high binned SST40s or XML2s. That would give a nice boost in brightness without doing much work.

Then bypass the springs with 20AWG/22AWG wire.

And that’s about what you could do without replacing the driver.

If you want to, you will have to wait until Lexel recovers.

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BlueSwordM wrote:
I would first try to boost the output with high binned SST40s or XML2s. That would give a nice boost in brightness without doing much work.

Then bypass the springs with 20AWG/22AWG wire.

And that’s about what you could do without replacing the driver.

If you want to, you will have to wait until Lexel recovers.

Thanks for your advise.
I’d bypass the spring and reflow to xml2s, but it’s doesn’t impressed me.
May be I should consider SST-40 and increase the output ampage but I’m not sure which capacitor shall I change.
I’ll upload the driver photos by tomorrow.
Hopefully can get some new ideas to increase the output.

Btw, Lexel replied my PM and it’s too much work and $$$ for this mods.

Lexel, Thanks again.

No Mods No Life

JasonWW
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Xonkorvich wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
I would first try to boost the output with high binned SST40s or XML2s. That would give a nice boost in brightness without doing much work.

Then bypass the springs with 20AWG/22AWG wire.

And that’s about what you could do without replacing the driver.

If you want to, you will have to wait until Lexel recovers.

Thanks for your advise.
I’d bypass the spring and reflow to xml2s, but it’s doesn’t impressed me.
May be I should consider SST-40 and increase the output ampage but I’m not sure which capacitor shall I change.
I’ll upload the driver photos by tomorrow.
Hopefully can get some new ideas to increase the output.

Btw, Lexel replied my PM and it’s too much work and $$$ for this mods.

Lexel, Thanks again.


The SST-40 has a lower forward voltage. It will produce extra output at the same amperage.

That’s such an old light design. Nowadays you could get something like a BLF Q8 for $45 that can do 5000 lumen, etc… Maybe there is a modern day equivalent.

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

eas
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My guess is that almost any mod for that light will be a challenge. Retaining the functionality of the mode ring with a new driver will be a challenge.

New emitters with the existing driver could deliver more output due to increased efficiency, though it probably wouldn’t be enough to really notice. Chances are you will have to reuse the existing MCPCB or cobble together something. The existing MCPCB will limit you to 5050 emitters, like XM-L2, SST-40, XHP50 (likely won’t work with existing driver, also heat may be an issue).

Modding the driver could deliver more current, but on its own, maybe just enough to notice, but this again runs into the heat issue without an MCPCB replacement. Perhaps the two together would produce enough improvement to feel worthwhile.

.

Maverick1947
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Xonkorvich wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
I would first try to boost the output with high binned SST40s or XML2s. That would give a nice boost in brightness without doing much work.

Then bypass the springs with 20AWG/22AWG wire.

And that’s about what you could do without replacing the driver.

If you want to, you will have to wait until Lexel recovers.

Thanks for your advise.
I’d bypass the spring and reflow to xml2s, but it’s doesn’t impressed me.
May be I should consider SST-40 and increase the output ampage but I’m not sure which capacitor shall I change.
I’ll upload the driver photos by tomorrow.
Hopefully can get some new ideas to increase the output.

Btw, Lexel replied my PM and it’s too much work and $$$ for this mods.

Lexel, Thanks again.

Lexel responded your message already? Hmmm. I thought he wasn’t answering just yet due to his hand surgery. I’m still waiting his response on my L6 driver. Should be a lot easier than what you are looking for, damn, awesome project.

There’s no replacement for displacement.

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I’m pretty new to the flashlight acquisition world, with the exception of some Maglights acquired of decades and a few disposable LEDs. But lately I have acquired a few of these: a couple of Olight, a couple of Imalent, a couple ThorFire (including BLF Q8), and quite a few Astrolux. The interface that I really like is the one in the BLF Q8. I wish all of my flashlights had the ramping feature. I would like to upgrade my Astrolux MF01 and MF02 lights to have the ramping feature. I’ve never done any flashlight modding, but from reading this forum what Lexel is offering may be what I’m looking for to accomplish this. I’ve watched a few videos regarding this, such as those put out by Matt at AdventureSportFlashlights. I’m not sure that I’m ready for this, but I really do want to get these two lights, especially the MF01, having a ramping mode. Please don’t beat me up for this, but is there a minimalist way to accomplish this? Perhaps requiring just a little soldering and not wholesale replacement of parts on a driver board. Any constructive advice that you can give or direction that you can point me would be appreciated. I’d like to do the same with some Astrolux C8s I have, so perhaps I should start there first.

Jeff

JasonWW
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jdavis wrote:
I’m pretty new to the flashlight acquisition world, with the exception of some Maglights acquired of decades and a few disposable LEDs. But lately I have acquired a few of these: a couple of Olight, a couple of Imalent, a couple ThorFire (including BLF Q8), and quite a few Astrolux. The interface that I really like is the one in the BLF Q8. I wish all of my flashlights had the ramping feature. I would like to upgrade my Astrolux MF01 and MF02 lights to have the ramping feature. I’ve never done any flashlight modding, but from reading this forum what Lexel is offering may be what I’m looking for to accomplish this. I’ve watched a few videos regarding this, such as those put out by Matt at AdventureSportFlashlights. I’m not sure that I’m ready for this, but I really do want to get these two lights, especially the MF01, having a ramping mode. Please don’t beat me up for this, but is there a minimalist way to accomplish this? Perhaps requiring just a little soldering and not wholesale replacement of parts on a driver board. Any constructive advice that you can give or direction that you can point me would be appreciated. I’d like to do the same with some Astrolux C8s I have, so perhaps I should start there first.

Jeff


The MF01 requires replacing the driver board completely plus modifying the leds wires to get the voltages correct. So it’s not too hard. I don’t think it’s glued. It is glued.

The MF02 requires a driver swap, but it is glued shut. You’ll need special tools and techniques (vice, heat gun, strap wrenches, etc…) to get it opened up.

To use NarsilM (ramping) requires a light with an e-switch or electronic switch (simple contact usually side mounted). The regular C8’s use a mechanical on/off switch (usually tail mounted) so they won’t work.

KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
You don't have to buy a roll of leds, there are small kits with different colors, like sampler kits, you can buy. The only down side is it comes from China, so it might take 2+ weeks for them to get in. Lexels L6 switch costs about $3 USD and can have 4 leds on it. Each led has it's own resistor and he can match the values so all the colors are the same brightness. Here are some pictures I got from F.i.l.a.s. These are the only pictures I've ever seen of his L6 switch. It's kind of new thing and not well known yet. !{width:95%}https://i.imgur.com/tyxpgcu.jpg! !{width:95%}https://i.imgur.com/yWe2Ruy.jpg! You just run one power wire for the leds, one power wire for the switch and one ground wire to it.

 

Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?

 

Lexel
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JasonWW wrote:
jdavis wrote:
I’m pretty new to the flashlight acquisition world, with the exception of some Maglights acquired of decades and a few disposable LEDs. But lately I have acquired a few of these: a couple of Olight, a couple of Imalent, a couple ThorFire (including BLF Q8), and quite a few Astrolux. The interface that I really like is the one in the BLF Q8. I wish all of my flashlights had the ramping feature. I would like to upgrade my Astrolux MF01 and MF02 lights to have the ramping feature. I’ve never done any flashlight modding, but from reading this forum what Lexel is offering may be what I’m looking for to accomplish this. I’ve watched a few videos regarding this, such as those put out by Matt at AdventureSportFlashlights. I’m not sure that I’m ready for this, but I really do want to get these two lights, especially the MF01, having a ramping mode. Please don’t beat me up for this, but is there a minimalist way to accomplish this? Perhaps requiring just a little soldering and not wholesale replacement of parts on a driver board. Any constructive advice that you can give or direction that you can point me would be appreciated. I’d like to do the same with some Astrolux C8s I have, so perhaps I should start there first.

Jeff


The MF01 requires replacing the driver board completely plus modifying the leds wires to get the voltages correct. So it’s not too hard. I don’t think it’s glued.

The MF02 requires a driver swap, but it is glued shut. You’ll need special tools and techniques (vice, heat gun, strap wrenches, etc…) to get it opened up.

To use NarsilM (ramping) requires a light with an e-switch or electronic switch (simple contact usually side mounted). The regular C8’s use a mechanical on/off switch (usually tail mounted) so they won’t work.

new MF01s v2 are glued hard on the bezel with red locktite to get to the LED board,
very hard to get open, I heat it up to 140°C and then CNC machined brackets for bezel and head

the v2 500-1000 or 1500 were not glued, but need a LED and carrier mod for the Buck driver
MF01s v1 the first 500 have old LED board and can be used with simple driver swap

MF02 needs a simple Carrier mod or my replacement boards plus driver swap
MF02 heads were always glued first with blue stuff then with white stuff, but not as bad as MF01

Olight are really hard to get to the guts usually possted and press fit bezels

Lexel
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Xonkorvich wrote:
https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/theshorelinemarket_2537_2773331122#jmui=f%3A14...

https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/theshorelinemarket_2536_22927262#jmui=f%3A1426...

Hi Lexel,

I’m new in BLF, I bought RRT-3 in 2011. It’s a quite powerful flashlight at that moment.
She’s still a good light, I still love her ring control UI as usual. Buy now days, 1950lumens seem a bit under power for such a ‘big’ light.

I would like to upgrade my Jetbeam Raptor RRT-3 to
XHP50.2 × 3 (original mcpcb is xm-l t6 ×3 in series)
Hopefully you may offer a suitable driver for this mods?

Thank you.

Its likely they use a buck driver with constant current output, so a LED swap wont do much output gain

JasonWW
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klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
You don’t have to buy a roll of leds, there are small kits with different colors, like sampler kits, you can buy. The only down side is it comes from China, so it might take 2+ weeks for them to get in. Lexels L6 switch costs about $3 USD and can have 4 leds on it. Each led has it’s own resistor and he can match the values so all the colors are the same brightness. Here are some pictures I got from F.i.l.a.s. These are the only pictures I’ve ever seen of his L6 switch. It’s kind of new thing and not well known yet. You just run one power wire for the leds, one power wire for the switch and one ground wire to it.

 


Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?


 


You have to define what driver you are refering to.

Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.

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Lexel
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
You don’t have to buy a roll of leds, there are small kits with different colors, like sampler kits, you can buy. The only down side is it comes from China, so it might take 2+ weeks for them to get in. Lexels L6 switch costs about $3 USD and can have 4 leds on it. Each led has it’s own resistor and he can match the values so all the colors are the same brightness. Here are some pictures I got from F.i.l.a.s. These are the only pictures I’ve ever seen of his L6 switch. It’s kind of new thing and not well known yet. You just run one power wire for the leds, one power wire for the switch and one ground wire to it.

 


Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?


 


You have to define what driver you are refering to.

Basically yes.

No, pretty much all drivers have at least one MCU controlled LED pinout (1S 3 Channel, 2S 2 Channel)
on most recent drivers I have also one pin with a resistor to vcc or 5V LDO added, so both Switch LED channels can be simply soldered to a pad and have a resistor on the driver

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