But when I pair it with an LH351D, it also works fine, but it glows ever so faintly when it should be off.
Ah, good to hear that I'm not the only one.
Oh good, same haha, I worried I screwed something up (which I suppose could still be).
I don't think it's so bad aesthetically. I almost like it, if it's not draining my battery more than any other emitter would. More on that below.
And functionally not terrible, especially if the emitter is just capable of turning on at extremely low currents, right? Because that would mean it's not using more current than a different emitter would be, it just so happens to be lighting up with that current. I suppose that would need to be tested.
Anywho, to see if it's the fet or the AMCs, couldn't we just desolder the components off of each channel, or even the lower AMC bank one at a time and see if that changes things? Not the most scientific, but just maybe haha.
Quick update, I got my hands on one of the lights I modded with the prebuilt driver you sent me Lexel, and I swapped an LH351D into it, and it still does the faint glow. Does it in the light, and set up by itself. So I think we’ve ruled out user error? Very odd.
Hope I don’t come off as upset, or demanding answers. It’s just a curious thing. I haven’t measured the standby current, but I’m not too worried about it.
Quick update, I got my hands on one of the lights I modded with the prebuilt driver you sent me Lexel, and I swapped an LH351D into it, and it still does the faint glow. Does it in the light, and set up by itself. So I think we’ve ruled out user error? Very odd.
Hope I don’t come off as upset, or demanding answers. It’s just a curious thing. I haven’t measured the standby current, but I’m not too worried about it.
Did you also try cleaning off any leftover flux than might be causing a tiny circuit? Like brush it with alcohol?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Did you also try cleaning off any leftover flux than might be causing a tiny circuit? Like brush it with alcohol?
I have not, although zeroflow did, or at least he states he cleaned them. I would assume with alcohol. I will clean mine as well, for completeness, and come back.
Did you also try cleaning off any leftover flux than might be causing a tiny circuit? Like brush it with alcohol?
I have not, although zeroflow did, or at least he states he cleaned them. I would assume with alcohol. I will clean mine as well, for completeness, and come back.
I think I let speak pictures a bit, unfortunately only my phone camera I forgot there
bought a new shiney apartment, started to pack a lot stuff to move there fully till 31. Nov,
so thought I got enough time to get a few things done
Looks OK 2 minor things on to do list
maybe someone did a bad move when disconnecting washing or dish machine or so as I discovered water
getting worse
removing the dish machine to get below the kitchen part
You know woods color right?
finally below the dish machine I found black stuff that turned out be have been wood a long time ago
had to remove kitchen for further investigation
As I am not allowed as its house property not my apartment I had today first time a company here to replace the pipe
I finally got the permission to open the wall to get to the pipe before the workers come
Today also more bad news opened the wall next to the pipe and below the plaster was wood plate, looks now more like mold than wood
so bought heavy breathing protection mask for toxic stuff and started to open all up and removing the mold,
a company would charge me way too much likely and would handle it like asbest stuff
the only mobile picture I made today
with good camara I made a lot today but forgot it there
Wow, that is bad. I think over here apartment renters can’t work on things, the building owners have to do all work. At least it does not cost the renter money to fix.
So do you have to pay for all the repair work?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Hard to say pipe fix is definitely house insurance
Water damage on walls maybe
Not sure if the last owners insurance will pay for the floor its obviously an old water damage which leaked over many years a bit and now got worse
The problem was made 1995 when the heating pipes were made new, some idiot drilled through the wall into the pipe and they put some glue stuff on the ceramic pipe instead installing a new segment
Oh god! We bought our more than 50 years old house two years ago and every time we touch something we found that the previous owners wanted to keep every cent they can on any job. I can feel your pain!
Hello, could lexel or someone help? I am building M2 Quad and my new 17mm FET driver from Lexel does not work.
I already checked,
leds are okay, no short (multimeter check, different driver)
resoldered wires on MCPCB
resoldered negative wire on driver
checked 7135 chips after I soldered spring, if there is no short (under hand magnifier)
pulled off driver, soldered to single MCPCB with led (led works), I connected a battery using crocodile clamps and wires to positive and ground
no response at all.
Then I checked driver again and found R1 connected to resistor?? besides and grounded. I have also another the same white version, which I haven´t use yet. I compared the resistors and they aren´t grounded. Does it matter and is this the problem?
I got no reading :(, this has to be faulty. May I ask you, could you send me a new one 17mm Bistro HD OTSM (Tail clicky lights) driver together with my Buck driver order?
Yes, R2 was grounded to the ring. So I removed it, wicked off all the solder and found, that the pad of R2 is conected to the ring. There is no way how solve this I guess, look below
Yes, R2 was grounded to the ring. So I removed it, wicked off all the solder and found, that the pad of R2 is conected to the ring. There is no way how solve this I guess, look below
It looks like there is still a layer of solder. Are you using solder wick?
If you can get to the clean pad material you can try taking an exacto knife or similar and break the connection.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Its no problem to make a replacement for a fee that covers shipping parts and the time to make it,
usually cheaper than failure analysis but I try never to scrap a driver that has an error
I test all drivers here befre shipping so I have some that need fix and often points on little design errors (or fab errors because they are not within 6 mil with a layer)
Oh good, same haha, I worried I screwed something up (which I suppose could still be).
I don't think it's so bad aesthetically. I almost like it, if it's not draining my battery more than any other emitter would. More on that below.
And functionally not terrible, especially if the emitter is just capable of turning on at extremely low currents, right? Because that would mean it's not using more current than a different emitter would be, it just so happens to be lighting up with that current. I suppose that would need to be tested.
Anywho, to see if it's the fet or the AMCs, couldn't we just desolder the components off of each channel, or even the lower AMC bank one at a time and see if that changes things? Not the most scientific, but just maybe haha.
PM sent on a couple drivers.
Hey Lexel, check your messages. I need quote on a couple drivers.
Do you take paypal?
He does use PayPal.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
I sent you a couple of PMs too, can you respond when you get a chance?
Quick update, I got my hands on one of the lights I modded with the prebuilt driver you sent me Lexel, and I swapped an LH351D into it, and it still does the faint glow. Does it in the light, and set up by itself. So I think we’ve ruled out user error? Very odd.
Hope I don’t come off as upset, or demanding answers. It’s just a curious thing. I haven’t measured the standby current, but I’m not too worried about it.
Did you also try cleaning off any leftover flux than might be causing a tiny circuit? Like brush it with alcohol?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
I have not, although zeroflow did, or at least he states he cleaned them. I would assume with alcohol.
I will clean mine as well, for completeness, and come back.
Yes, it was cleaned 3 times.
1) KONTAKT LR Leiterplattenreiniger, clean & brush around the soldered wires
2) Isopropyl alcohol, 99.9%, submerge and brush both sides of the driver
3) Again KONTAKT LR with lots of solvent and lots of brushing
While powering the driver when it was not fully dried did increase the brightness when off
Even after letting it dry correctly, step 2 and 3 did not decrease the brightness.
As mentioned before: I suspect the combination of the MOSFET and LH351D as the culprit.
Okay, cleaning was worth a try. Its free and easy.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
Has anyone heard from lexel? He hasn’t responded to my pm in over a week.
Maybe he got some complications with his hand ?
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
From yesterday:
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
I’ve heard from him. He is little swamped atm.
At least it’s not an health issue, which is all that counts IMO
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
I think I let speak pictures a bit, unfortunately only my phone camera I forgot there
bought a new shiney apartment, started to pack a lot stuff to move there fully till 31. Nov,
so thought I got enough time to get a few things done
Looks OK 2 minor things on to do list
maybe someone did a bad move when disconnecting washing or dish machine or so as I discovered water
getting worse
removing the dish machine to get below the kitchen part
You know woods color right?
finally below the dish machine I found black stuff that turned out be have been wood a long time ago
had to remove kitchen for further investigation
As I am not allowed as its house property not my apartment I had today first time a company here to replace the pipe
I finally got the permission to open the wall to get to the pipe before the workers come
Today also more bad news opened the wall next to the pipe and below the plaster was wood plate, looks now more like mold than wood
so bought heavy breathing protection mask for toxic stuff and started to open all up and removing the mold,
a company would charge me way too much likely and would handle it like asbest stuff
the only mobile picture I made today
with good camara I made a lot today but forgot it there
did i mention the new job I took on 1. Oct.?
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Wow, that is bad. I think over here apartment renters can’t work on things, the building owners have to do all work. At least it does not cost the renter money to fix.
So do you have to pay for all the repair work?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
Hard to say pipe fix is definitely house insurance
Water damage on walls maybe
Not sure if the last owners insurance will pay for the floor its obviously an old water damage which leaked over many years a bit and now got worse
The problem was made 1995 when the heating pipes were made new, some idiot drilled through the wall into the pipe and they put some glue stuff on the ceramic pipe instead installing a new segment
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Oh god! We bought our more than 50 years old house two years ago and every time we touch something we found that the previous owners wanted to keep every cent they can on any job. I can feel your pain!
Reviews: Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
My Patreon page to support my reviews and mods
looks like my place. Good luck
All the best Lexel. One thing after another.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Hello, could lexel or someone help? I am building M2 Quad and my new 17mm FET driver from Lexel does not work.
I already checked,
leds are okay, no short (multimeter check, different driver)
resoldered wires on MCPCB
resoldered negative wire on driver
checked 7135 chips after I soldered spring, if there is no short (under hand magnifier)
pulled off driver, soldered to single MCPCB with led (led works), I connected a battery using crocodile clamps and wires to positive and ground
no response at all.
Then I checked driver again and found R1 connected to resistor?? besides and grounded. I have also another the same white version, which I haven´t use yet. I compared the resistors and they aren´t grounded. Does it matter and is this the problem?
R1 and R2 make a voltage divider
R1 1k connectoed to batt+
R1 and R2 on MCU pin 7 Off detection about 3V when battery full
R2 3.3k grounded
It happened some time MCU voltage got grounden by accident, then R5 4.7Ohm burns like a fuse
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Thanks Lexel, should I resolder or change some component in this case? I want to make this driver working.
first would be measuring if on MCU pin7 are 3V, if not the voltage divider is not OK
checking if the MCU gets power between the diode and C2
as the MCU pins are bent 90° the contact area to the pad is very small might be solder problem there
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I got no reading :(, this has to be faulty. May I ask you, could you send me a new one 17mm Bistro HD OTSM (Tail clicky lights) driver together with my Buck driver order?
on the black one the common point on the resistors is very close to copper ring, if there is a short you get 0V reading or if R2 is shorted
the white version is improved in tiny details
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Yes, R2 was grounded to the ring. So I removed it, wicked off all the solder and found, that the pad of R2 is conected to the ring. There is no way how solve this I guess, look below
It looks like there is still a layer of solder. Are you using solder wick?
If you can get to the clean pad material you can try taking an exacto knife or similar and break the connection.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
those are possible short areas
also under R2 a short may happen but less likely
Its no problem to make a replacement for a fee that covers shipping parts and the time to make it,
usually cheaper than failure analysis but I try never to scrap a driver that has an error
I test all drivers here befre shipping so I have some that need fix and often points on little design errors (or fab errors because they are not within 6 mil with a layer)
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
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