Texas_Ace MT09R Modding thread, 20k+ lumens, 80CRI, can start fires? Yes please.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
inrealtime wrote:
Hey there,

I came across Terry’s site & want to order the Haikelite MTO7S XHP70.2. What is the process to send it to you to mod it to this 20K lumen monster?

Chris

Simply order the light from Terry like you normally would but tell him you want to ship it to me and give him your BLF user name to send with the light.

Then contact me via PM to work out exactly what you want done to the light. Terry will send the light to me and I will mod it and then send it to you.

20K+ lumen is for the MT09R 70. The MT07S is single emitter and does, what something like ~9000 lumens or so with TA driver?

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Thank you sir.. xhp70.2 is cranking 22,000 lumen and xhp35 7200 lumen. I couldnt be happier. Mt07s will be on your way soon.

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inrealtime wrote:
Hey there, I came across Terry's site & want to order the Haikelite MTO7S XHP70.2. What is the process to send it to you to mod it to this 20K lumen monster? Chris

 

Just place your order with me. When I begin shipping on the 18th all but just a very few will got to TA even if it is just for the driver install so I will ship it to him with the others.

 

As far as what modifications you would like just send TA a PM and he will take from there.

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charles lin wrote:
TA, How is the tint like for shave dome P2 5700k XHP70.2? any green tint? Color temperature around 5k? Tint shift better or worse?

I have not tried it on the 5700k myself yet but I know that the 4000k looks pretty good with a shaved dome. None of that puke green tint of days past. It does get warmer and a bit more yellow.

I am going to guess that the 5700k will fair pretty good as well just no first have experience with it. All my lights are NW.

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hIKARInoob wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
inrealtime wrote:
Hey there, I came across Terry's site & want to order the Haikelite MTO7S XHP70.2. What is the process to send it to you to mod it to this 20K lumen monster? Chris
Simply order the light from Terry like you normally would but tell him you want to ship it to me and give him your BLF user name to send with the light. Then contact me via PM to work out exactly what you want done to the light. Terry will send the light to me and I will mod it and then send it to you.
20K+ lumen is for the MT09R 70. The MT07S is single emitter and does, what something like ~9000 lumens or so with TA driver?

 

oops... He is right I just noticed that you asked about the MT07S

 

If you want to order the MT07S that is simple just place the order and I normally would just ship that to you... You can talk with TA and ask him what if any modifications he may be able to do to it.

 

hiKARlnoob is right if you are looking for the 20k plus lumen light that would be the MT09R 70.2. Unless something has changed and I was never told about it I can pretty much promise you that you are not going to get anywhere close to 20k lumen from the MT07S. 

It is a great light even totally stock. It is one of the first Haikelite models I ever purchased and it is still one of my favorites.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Haikelite USA Official wrote:

Texas_Ace wrote:
And #4 for today is now done, Newlumens tan XHP35. He wanted XHP35 HI 5700k emitters, TA driver and 100% ramp. These are actually pretty good for a CW emitter, They are on the cool side for sure but even I could stand them if I had to. Much much nicer then the stock CW and a lot brighter as well. This is the highest XHP35 light yet (which makes sense, they are the highest bin yet as well unless someone trys the E4 bin I can get from another supplier for a short time). It is making ~7200 lumens on my sphere. Quite nice indeed and further confirms my suspensions that the stock CW are something like C2 bin or a little lower.

 

I wonder if those E4 min would make that last 300 lumen lol...

On paper it would, it should be about ~21% brighter then the D2 5700k HI LED's he used. Although many times paper numbers and real world numbers don't line up perfectly.

 

That is a lesson all of us have learned at some point the hard way. Still I think it may be worth a try.. As soon as things settle a little and I am sure I have any orders for the 70.2 stock I have is either gone or stopped selling for some reason I will get with you on that. 

I know what the driver can do even with stock emitters so I do believe it would be worth the money to at least try. Even if it came out the same output as Newlumens 35 high I would still not be disappointed.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
charles lin wrote:
TA, How is the tint like for shave dome P2 5700k XHP70.2? any green tint? Color temperature around 5k? Tint shift better or worse?

I have not tried it on the 5700k myself yet but I know that the 4000k looks pretty good with a shaved dome. None of that puke green tint of days past. It does get warmer and a bit more yellow.

I am going to guess that the 5700k will fair pretty good as well just no first have experience with it. All my lights are NW.


yeah, I prefer NW as well. However, 4000k is lowest I go, any warmer CT is too yellow for me. That is why I asked for shave dome 5700k; I kinda hope it will set somewhere around 5000~5200k, at cold side of NW.
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charles lin wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
charles lin wrote:
TA, How is the tint like for shave dome P2 5700k XHP70.2? any green tint? Color temperature around 5k? Tint shift better or worse?

I have not tried it on the 5700k myself yet but I know that the 4000k looks pretty good with a shaved dome. None of that puke green tint of days past. It does get warmer and a bit more yellow.

I am going to guess that the 5700k will fair pretty good as well just no first have experience with it. All my lights are NW.


yeah, I prefer NW as well. However, 4000k is lowest I go, any warmer CT is too yellow for me. That is why I asked for shave dome 5700k; I kinda hope it will set somewhere around 5000~5200k, at cold side of NW.

The latest LED’s don’t shift nearly as much as the older ones, If I had to guess it would be closer to 5300-5500. Still not that bad though.

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Texas_Ace wrote:

Ok, swapped the FET, checked everything over, put it all back together and tried it again with cells fresh off the charger and it is now doing about 23k peak stabilizing around 22k. So that is more like it.

Very happy with that result! Good to know mine is not an outlier on the lower end.

I’ve been wondering what is the point of choosing the XHP35 HD over the XHP35 HI? It seems if you want it to be floodier, then just go for the XHP70.2 or if you want somewhere midway, wouldn’t it make more sense to pay just a little bit more for the dedomed 70.2, which will probably give the same amount of throw as the XHP35 HD but with triple the lumen output?

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SKV89 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:

Ok, swapped the FET, checked everything over, put it all back together and tried it again with cells fresh off the charger and it is now doing about 23k peak stabilizing around 22k. So that is more like it.

Very happy with that result! Good to know mine is not an outlier on the lower end.

I’ve been wondering what is the point of choosing the XHP35 HD over the XHP35 HI? It seems if you want it to be floodier, then just go for the XHP70.2 or if you want somewhere midway, wouldn’t it make more sense to pay just a little bit more for the dedomed 70.2, which will probably give the same amount of throw as the XHP35 HD but with triple the lumen output?

In my case I figure I will start off with the HD and see what it is like. Then if I decide I would prefer a HI I will simply slice the domes off. Technically this should give a bit better output then a normal HI anyways.

Plus I have never regretted going with an HD yet, the extra lumens they offer seems to balance out the reduced intensity and the end result is only around ~10% less throw in the first lights I did back to back tests with IIRC,

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Oh good point with being able to shave the dome on the HD so you can get a higher binned HI!

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Hope it is okay that I post this really quick TA... Part of it everyone needs to know...

 

I have 2 MT09R 35 High left both now have the final version of TA's driver. I just completed installing the drivers and they both are smooth as butter and both have output levels between 6500 to 6700 lumen both have stock emitters both are white (Silver, never will I get why they call that white) one has CW emitters and one has NW emitters. I really should have priced them higher than I have but these are left from the fist batch I purchased so I got a much better discount on these. The price you will see on my website. These are the last 35 Highs I will be able to get until Haikelite has completed the new driver and is installing them at the factory so 5 or 6 week at least.

 

One other quick thing... I have had a few people ask why I raised the price of the 30 MT09R's 70.2's that are on the way now. I raised the price by $20.00 not trying to make a ton of extra money but they would only let me order 30 units total. Even though I get wholesale pricing with it being only a 30 unit order I do not get the same volume discount that I did when I first opened and had ordered 125 units total. 

The 30 units on the way actually cost me $21.34 each more than the lights I had in stock previously. If he had let me order 100 or more than I get much better volume discounts and can keep prices a little lower. Dale is gonna get annoyed at me as it is for not running them at retail but he will get over it this time.  Anyway, truth is if I go even $5.00 cheaper I am getting very close to not making enough to cover shipping to me then shipping back out. They honestly are about as low as I can go. I did make sure to get only NW emitters as the NW seems to be getting much better performance even the stock emitters.

 

Okay sorry TA I just wanted everyone to know that I am not raising the price by that 20 to be greedy lol... 

 

Thanks very much.

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SKV89 wrote:
Oh good point with being able to shave the dome on the HD so you can get a higher binned HI!

I don’t think it works like that. It’s the dome that gives it a higher bin. Slice the dome off and it drops to the next lower bin due to the loss of lumens.

SKV89 wrote:

I’ve been wondering what is the point of choosing the XHP35 HD over the XHP35 HI? It seems if you want it to be floodier, then just go for the XHP70.2 or if you want somewhere midway, wouldn’t it make more sense to pay just a little bit more for the dedomed 70.2, which will probably give the same amount of throw as the XHP35 HD but with triple the lumen output?

Going from a 35 HD to a 70.2 HI is a really big jump. It will never equal the throw.

The 50.2 is the middle step between them. Concerning hot spot sizes, and this is based on my measurements and observations, I think the 35 HD should be about the same size as a 50.2 HI. The 50.2 HD should about the same size as the 70.2 HI. So you basically have 4 different hot spot sizes from the 3 emitters depending on whether they have a dome or not.

50.2 HI = sliced dome
50.2 HD = dome intact

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

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never mind Silly

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JasonWW wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Oh good point with being able to shave the dome on the HD so you can get a higher binned HI!
I don’t think it works like that. It’s the dome that gives it a higher bin. Slice the dome off and it drops to the next lower bin due to the loss of lumens.

Strangely it does seem to work a little like that. KB has done a lot of testing on the xhp35 and that is what he does, uses and HD LED and shaves the dome off and gets higher numbers then a HI LED. This has also been seen with older XM-L2 and XP-L LED’s as well.

I figure I will give it a try and see what happens.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
For those just ordering the drivers, the wiring is pretty simple.

LED + to LED + pads
LED – to LED – Pads

Black switch wire to the switch GND pad
Red switch wire to the switch V+ pad
Yellow switch wire to the SWLED pad

Snip the end of the blue wire off and stuff it down into the driver cavity.

Hey, Ace…any chance of showing a photo of what your describing above ? You mention “plus” LED pads, but I didn’t see a polarity marking on the driver. Admitedly, I only glanced briefly at it late last night after a 10 hour drive, so may have missed it. I’ve done lots of soldering, but this will be my first flashlight driver swap – don’t want to mess it up, lol.
Thanks!

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TSO wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
For those just ordering the drivers, the wiring is pretty simple.

LED + to LED + pads
LED – to LED – Pads

Black switch wire to the switch GND pad
Red switch wire to the switch V+ pad
Yellow switch wire to the SWLED pad

Snip the end of the blue wire off and stuff it down into the driver cavity.

Hey, Ace…any chance of showing a photo of what your describing above ? You mention “plus” LED pads, but I didn’t see a polarity marking on the driver. Admitedly, I only glanced briefly at it late last night after a 10 hour drive, so may have missed it. I’ve done lots of soldering, but this will be my first flashlight driver swap – don’t want to mess it up, lol.
Thanks!

I can try to get a picture later.

The 4 big pads go to the LED wires. Above one set of 4 it says LED -

Above the other set of 4 it says LED +

The red wires go to the + and the white wires go to the -.

Same for the Switch, the GND pad is where the black switch wire goes and the V+ is where the red switch wire goes.

The writing is very small, you might need a magnifying glass.

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Also, just wanted to let everyone know I will be placing an order tomorrow most likely for another batch of LED’s.

So anyone that wants to place an order, let me know and I will get it added to this order to speed things up later.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
TSO wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
For those just ordering the drivers, the wiring is pretty simple. LED + to LED + pads LED - to LED - Pads Black switch wire to the switch GND pad Red switch wire to the switch V+ pad Yellow switch wire to the SWLED pad Snip the end of the blue wire off and stuff it down into the driver cavity.
Hey, Ace...any chance of showing a photo of what your describing above ? You mention "plus" LED pads, but I didn't see a polarity marking on the driver. Admitedly, I only glanced briefly at it late last night after a 10 hour drive, so may have missed it. I've done lots of soldering, but this will be my first flashlight driver swap - don't want to mess it up, lol. Thanks!
I can try to get a picture later. The 4 big pads go to the LED wires. Above one set of 4 it says LED - Above the other set of 4 it says LED + The red wires go to the + and the white wires go to the -. Same for the Switch, the GND pad is where the black switch wire goes and the V+ is where the red switch wire goes. The writing is very small, you might need a magnifying glass.

 

 

lol I can tell you from personal experience that you will want to get those positive and negative switch wires right. They do not go to the same pads as the old stock driver. If you happen to get those wrong it will definitely short out the switch at the very least.

 

I say this because I did it... still... it's very simple to install..

 

Also be very careful with the retaining ring. I've already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily.  As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.

 

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Also be very careful with the retaining ring. I’ve already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily.  As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.


 

[/quote]

just curious here, the threads that the retaining ring screws into will get stripped, so a new retaining ring won’t help? thanks. I had some trouble getting mine out, it was snug. I won’t tighten it putting it back in.

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Haikelite USA Official wrote:

hIKARInoob wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
inrealtime wrote:
Hey there, I came across Terry’s site & want to order the Haikelite MTO7S XHP70.2. What is the process to send it to you to mod it to this 20K lumen monster? Chris
Simply order the light from Terry like you normally would but tell him you want to ship it to me and give him your BLF user name to send with the light. Then contact me via PM to work out exactly what you want done to the light. Terry will send the light to me and I will mod it and then send it to you.
20K+ lumen is for the MT09R 70. The MT07S is single emitter and does, what something like ~9000 lumens or so with TA driver?

 


oops… He is right I just noticed that you asked about the MT07S


 


If you want to order the MT07S that is simple just place the order and I normally would just ship that to you… You can talk with TA and ask him what if any modifications he may be able to do to it.


 


hiKARlnoob is right if you are looking for the 20k plus lumen light that would be the MT09R 70.2. Unless something has changed and I was never told about it I can pretty much promise you that you are not going to get anywhere close to 20k lumen from the MT07S. 


It is a great light even totally stock. It is one of the first Haikelite models I ever purchased and it is still one of my favorites.

Sorry for the typo guys. I meant the MT09R 70.2 Triple. I am going to order this & have it sent to TA. Can’t wait

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Also, just wanted to let everyone know I will be placing an order tomorrow most likely for another batch of LED’s.

So anyone that wants to place an order, let me know and I will get it added to this order to speed things up later.

Yes. Please order 1 xhp70.2 6500k led for my mt07s.

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saypat wrote:
Also be very careful with the retaining ring. I've already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily.  As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.

 

just curious here, the threads that the retaining ring screws into will get stripped, so a new retaining ring won't help? thanks. I had some trouble getting mine out, it was snug. I won't tighten it putting it back in.[/quote]

 

Honestly not sure... I have some new retaining rings coming along with these lights because I noticed how easy it is to do.

 

I can tell you this. The last one that cross threaded on me was the threading in at the base of the head and not the ring. I used a very small round piece of tungsten and just ran it around the inner flat part of the threads and that did stand the cut threads back up. the I used a fine grit sand paper and sanded and jagged edges away and the ring screwed on like I had just cut new threads lol... 

I have made them aware of this and it will be addressed. This is also one of the reasons that I try to recommend that even the best of us just let me ship the light (if it is new) to TA. He has opened and closed as many of them if not more than I have now so we know right away just by how it feels if we are going to have a problem...

 

No worries though that is a warranty issue. 

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Newlumen wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Also, just wanted to let everyone know I will be placing an order tomorrow most likely for another batch of LED’s.

So anyone that wants to place an order, let me know and I will get it added to this order to speed things up later.

Yes. Please order 1 xhp70.2 6500k led for my mt07s.

I figure out the LED orders based on my paypal orders. So it is best to place the order so I do not forget, it gets exceedingly complicated to try to keep track of both the paypal orders and talking to people on here without either forgetting someone or ordering too many. Easier to just stick with paypal.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Also, just wanted to let everyone know I will be placing an order tomorrow most likely for another batch of LED’s.

So anyone that wants to place an order, let me know and I will get it added to this order to speed things up later.

Yes. Please order 1 xhp70.2 6500k led for my mt07s.

I figure out the LED orders based on my paypal orders. So it is best to place the order so I do not forget, it gets exceedingly complicated to try to keep track of both the paypal orders and talking to people on here without either forgetting someone or ordering too many. Easier to just stick with paypal.

What difference does it make? If you get my light next week, then you will still need to order a led right.. i thought it make be easier and save $ on shipping.. i am not in hurry.

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Newlumen wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Also, just wanted to let everyone know I will be placing an order tomorrow most likely for another batch of LED’s.

So anyone that wants to place an order, let me know and I will get it added to this order to speed things up later.

Yes. Please order 1 xhp70.2 6500k led for my mt07s.

I figure out the LED orders based on my paypal orders. So it is best to place the order so I do not forget, it gets exceedingly complicated to try to keep track of both the paypal orders and talking to people on here without either forgetting someone or ordering too many. Easier to just stick with paypal.

What difference does it make? If you get my light next week, then you will still need to order a led right.. i thought it make be easier and save $ on shipping.. i am not in hurry.

I think you misunderstood. Yes, I do want to order your LED tomorrow. I just wait to order the LED’s until I have been paid for the work in most cases. I have had a few people change their mind on the tint they want and most importantly this is much easier for me to keep track of.

Basically if you have paid by tomorrow, the LED will be ordered for sure. If not then I will try but no guarantees. I have been getting well over 50 PM’s a day so it is nearly impossible to keep track of them all for something as important as ordering parts but not ordering too many.

Hopeful that is a little clearer?

Also, if you already paid, then great! I will get it for sure. It is proving quite difficult to keep track of the connections between payments and users on BLF. Thats why I ask for so many details in the paypal notes to make sure I don’t miss anything. The paypal notes is the “master” order list I use.

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Makes sense to keep all orders in one place and makes more sense for that to be paypal since that is a guarantee the customer has settled on their decision. That’s how I do business too, once I receive security deposit, the work order goes on my queue. No security deposit, I treat as not a serious customer so won’t waste my time.

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And those 70.2 emitter are not cheap. Not if you want a good bin top quality LED....

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TA, I got my driver all wired up and I’m having problems with powering up the light. Once I screw in the battery tube, I get the 2 blinks and the button lighting up. However, when I press the switch nothing happens. So the issue might be that the driver is not sitting on the shelf properly and I need to add solder blobs to the top side of the driver to make better contact? Or is it some other issue? Thanks for any input you can give and I bypassed all 5 springs if that makes any difference.

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