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Olight H2R is a very practical high brightness headlight
Using optical lens
Use a small electric drill to carefully drill 2 holes, and do not hurt the lines inside
Then use a knife to clear out the space under the pressure ring
Use the lever principle to open the pressure ring
Remove the pressure ring
Remove the lens
CREE XHP50 1 generation
Removed lens and pressure ring
Remove the MCPCB (LED)
LED wiring, switch wiring, and a housing ground wire
Ready to install Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 LED
Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 LED CRI Test Results (Reposted)
LED 6V power connection diagram
Reflow LED
Use IPA to clean, will not hurt the LED surface
Start the wiring, the MCPCB is not easy to solder beautiful
Finished wiring welding
Test I
Test II
bead lens
Selected three 20mm to test
If you do not like the direct charging function, you can paste the negative electrode with a special sticker.
Completed
After to 2 weeks……….continue…
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This is another H2R that has been completely destroyed
Get a original lens and pressure ring
Remove the re-installation lens, by the way using thermal glue to fixed and heat dissipation
No spacers are used
Reinstall complete, perfect
The right side is the ArmyTek wizard pro Nichia E21A 5000K+6500K mixing version
Please refer to the following link:(Chinese)
http://news.wii.tw/viewthread.php?tid=59920&highlight=
You light up my life
Repost: nichia E21A tone test picture
practical testing:
Left: ArmyTek wizard pro (5000K+6500K) Right: Olight H2R (6500K)
ArmyTek’s honeycomb lens is really good and its floodlight spot is very beautiful
The H2R’s original lens will see a light block
Cool white high CRI R9080+, the actual visual inspection is a whole white
H2R lens not installed
H2R After installing the original lens
The new toy received today, the light meter
LuminTop ODF30 turbo mode 498800 lux
Please refer to:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59980
H2R extremely bright 142500 lux
ArmyTek wizard pro extremely bright 100900 lux
The above is for reference only: there are differences in data due to distance and on-site lighting
thanks for watching
Sorry for my poor english.
Very nice. Which optics did you end up using in each light, and did you modify them in any way? Seems like they both have the original manufacturer optics.
Yes, All original manufacturer optics.
Sorry for my poor english.
Very nice build, thanks for posting it all!
That Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 is amazing, I have one in an Olight M10 Maverik and with its cool tint with great CRI and throwy beam it made for a fantastic EDC.
link to djozz tests
Very nice Steel. It’s not really that hard is it? Once we get past the fence of destroy-that-lens moment, everything is so much easier. Did you clean the LEDs with boiling IPA as I told you? Be careful with the fumes, I went dizzy one time
Now Olight and Armytek have to weld the bezel to secure their internals
- Clemence
https://www.virence.com/
BTW, please send me the link to you TASI meter. Does it has USB port?
- Clemence
https://www.virence.com/
No USB port
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/TA8134-Lux-Meter-Messbereich-1-200-000lux...
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=544799759820&spm=a1z09.2.0.0.712b2e...
Sorry for my poor english.
Thanks, yup no USB port unfortunately.
- Clemence
https://www.virence.com/
Where buy oryginal bead lens ?
Came from another H2R that has been completely destroyed.
But
You can try other 20mm bead lens.
Sorry for my poor english.
How many degrees has the original?
80 – 90 ?
I seem to have seen relevant information before.
But, I can’t confirm now.
Original description:
Lens / Reflector Type TIR bead lens (wide/broad beam)
Sorry for my poor english.
Cool
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