Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube / Sphere No math skills needed - Several spheres still available

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Texas_Ace
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beam0 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:

Just curious, is the hole in the centering ring just perfectly sized for this light so only the very edge of the bezel is resting on it? (not blocking any of the reflector area)

I thought we had to hold the light through the hole, starting at roughly flush then move it up and down.

Texas_Ace wrote:
You will simply hold it roughly flush with the centering ring, move it up and down until you get the best reading.

In most cases you have to hold it but some lights will rest on it. If you hold the ring up to the light you can see if it will block any of the reflector easily. If not then you can simply rest it on top of the ring.

It completely depends on the light you are using.

It is all pretty intuitive once you get it I think.

beam0
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I see thanks for explaining.

How much smaller than the hole can the head of the light be without having too much light escaping around the open edges?

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

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beam0 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:

Just curious, is the hole in the centering ring just perfectly sized for this light so only the very edge of the bezel is resting on it? (not blocking any of the reflector area)

I thought we had to hold the light through the hole, starting at roughly flush then move it up and down.

Texas_Ace wrote:
You will simply hold it roughly flush with the centering ring, move it up and down until you get the best reading.

No it didn’t make any major difference, I tried all different scenario’s, light just thru the bigger cut out, a little lower, moved it around, nothing major a couple lumens, but if you go too low/too high then you see the lux drop like a rock.. I even turned the centering rings over to the silver painted side and measured.

I’m not worried about 20-40 lumens I don’t build many pocket fondling EDC lights to care about it.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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beam0 wrote:
I see thanks for explaining.

How much smaller than the hole can the head of the light be without having too much light escaping around the open edges?


Your asking a ton of questions, but you should just wait until your tube arrives. It’s super difficult to put the answers into words. All your questions will be answered once you try it out.
Texas_Ace
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beam0 wrote:
I see thanks for explaining.

How much smaller than the hole can the head of the light be without having too much light escaping around the open edges?

It is one of those case by case basis type of deals. After you play with it you will see pretty quick the effects of using differnt sized rings or moving the light up or down.

As was said, pushing the light in too far or pulling it out too far can have big effects, the ring size is less important within reason.

You can make your own rings out of cardboard as well if you have an odd sized light. These are just some general sized rings that work with most lights.

Newlumen
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Do you think lumen tube will melt if i test 15 minutes continually of flashlights that are 1000-17000 lumen ??

Texas_Ace
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Newlumen wrote:
Do you think lumen tube will melt if i test 15 minutes continually of flashlights that are 1000-17000 lumen ??

I have not tried it myself for that long, I really can’t say. My gut says it should be but with a very high powered light it is possible it could melt. I would simply touch the diffusing disk after a few minutes to see how hot it is to see if you should keep going.

Although I don’t know of any lights that can do 17k lumens for 15 minutes straight without overheating.

1000 lumens would be no problem at all.

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TA, received mine the other day. Thanks for the quick turnaround…there is no way I would ever have been able to build so many of these in that time-frame. I just put out some feelers to some individuals who may have access to integrating spheres. One works at a USA based flashlight company and the other is at a streetlight test facility. I’m either going to see if I can get a couple of my lights tested with exact output numbers or borrow/purchase a light that has been tested. If this happens, I’m going to use this to calibrate mine, and you are more than welcome to use them. Of course, this is pending whether or not either guy pulls through. Thanks again.

Blazer296
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Received mine yesterday. Have not had time to test it out yet.

Thanks for making these TA.

Terry Oregon
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Quote:
I’m either going to see if I can get a couple of my lights tested with exact output numbers or borrow/purchase a light that has been tested. If this happens, I’m going to use this to calibrate mine, and you are more than welcome to use them. Of course, this is pending whether or not either guy pulls through.

 

I see a need in the flashlight world that isn't currently being fulfilled on an affordable/practical basis.  Would be nice if:

(1) xyz company would test a specific light that you mail in - then test it in an integrating sphere - then return it - for a reasonable fee

(2) a flashlight manufacturer would sell tested lights with a calibration sheet showing that particular light was tested in a sphere. That might cost twice as much (or more) than a normal production run - but would be worth it as a reference.

My reviews: , J5 Tactical V1 Pro LINK and Thirteen Optical Sensors LINK and a short review Zebralight SC700d LINK

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Newlumen wrote:
I heard those sphere cost about $10000..

As you can imagine, the price range is huge. Some compact ones like the Labpshere FS2 cost several tens of thousands. Last year I was contacting multiple sphere manufacturers specifically looking for an affordable one, which wasn’t an easy task. Most of them ignored my emails. Lisun however was very helpful and also provided photos of details I asked about to make sure I was able to do flashlight measurements easily.

It did help that I didn’t need the spectro or software, even though some mfgs always bundle them together. After some back and forth negotation, this sphere with the required equipment (meter, standard calibration lamp, psu, shipping + VAT/duty) only came to the level of couple highend custom lights (<$5000). A tradeoff I’m more than willing to make. We are at BLF after all. The sphere itself is well below $2k.

Of course if you don’t buy a package deal with all the associated equipment from the sphere company, there’s a lot of experimenting and calibrating to do, just like with any DIY integrating sphere/tube/shoebox. If you’ve ever tried building one, you know. You can get very good results with making everything yourself, but usually the meter is the Achilles’s heel. Djozz has several good threads on the subject. Also, measuring flashlights is more difficult than omnidirectional bulbs. But as this is a hobby, I don’t consider the time spent doing this costing me anything. Rather a learning experience.

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JasonWW wrote:

Your asking a ton of questions, but you should just wait until your tube arrives. It’s super difficult to put the answers into words.
I disagree completely, I’ve gotten very good answers that have helped me understand more about this and know how to use it better when it arrives, that’s all I was after.

.

JasonWW wrote:

Your asking a ton of questions
Is that bothering you?
I’ve only asked a few questions not a ton, you’ve asked about the same number of questions today yourself. First time I’ve been chided on the forum for asking questions!!

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

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Texas_Ace wrote:
It is also looking like I will be sending some lights to finland for testing on a real sphere so I can get a good calibration.

I am thinking of using an

S2+ with 7135 driver as they are usually pretty stable.

Possibly a BLF348 as I hear they are fairly stable since they use a regulated boost driver

Old fenix light I got 10 years ago that was pretty stable when tested.

These are small enough and cheap enough to risk in the normal mail, otherwise it would be $75+ in shipping.


I was thinking of a way to reduce this back and forth international shipping cost to Maukka drastically.

Maybe Maukka (I assume he has lots of flashlight parts laying around) could choose a suitable emitter and a reliable driver and wire it to a common battery (30Q) then record the levels in his sphere minus a flashlight body. Then he just mails that to TA. Wouldn’t the exact results be repeatable?

It’s also one way shipping of a thin envelope.

You guys would have to sort out the small details such as the size of the heatsink it’s mounted to and how long after turn on to take the Lumen reading. Maybe also how to hold the emitter to the sphere. So if Maukka says he measured this emitter/driver at 44lm, 160lm and 555lm then TA can measure in a couple of his tubes to get an exact correction factor.

Maybe you guys both have power supplies? Then you can use a set voltage and eliminate the battery as a variable.

Just a thought.

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If the integrating properties aren’t perfect it’s better to calibrate using a light with a reflector, since that’s what the tube will be used for.

The S2+ on a med mode and the BLF348 are very stable so they’ll do fine.

edit: the power supply suggestion is good. TA could just send the head of an S2+ without a driver with leads hanging out from the MCPCB. If he has an accurate PSU we could just drive it at 100mA to take the battery out of the equation.

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WOW!  That's one heck of a great "Just a thought"!  Big Thumbs Up, bud! Smile

-Ben Walker
miswas

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beam0 wrote:
First time I’ve been chided on the forum for asking questions!!

Not chiding. Innocent
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WillyD wrote:
TA, received mine the other day. Thanks for the quick turnaround…there is no way I would ever have been able to build so many of these in that time-frame. I just put out some feelers to some individuals who may have access to integrating spheres. One works at a USA based flashlight company and the other is at a streetlight test facility. I’m either going to see if I can get a couple of my lights tested with exact output numbers or borrow/purchase a light that has been tested. If this happens, I’m going to use this to calibrate mine, and you are more than welcome to use them. Of course, this is pending whether or not either guy pulls through. Thanks again.

Let me know if you hear back, I will most likely be sending my lights in a few days but not having to ship international would be great.

Micael
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I sent my lights today to Finland.

Now the waiting game start…..

Micael

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

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Terry Oregon wrote:

I see a need in the flashlight world that isn’t currently being fulfilled on an affordable/practical basis.  Would be nice if:


(2) a flashlight manufacturer would sell tested lights with a calibration sheet showing that particular light was tested in a sphere. That might cost twice as much (or more) than a normal production run – but would be worth it as a reference.

You said “affordable/practical” then comment that you’d pay double for this service. At the risk of starting to sound like an HDS fanboi lol, I’ll just point out again that they do this with every light they sell, except instead of providing a certificate of that lights output, which would just lead to pissed off customers who didn’t get the brightest samples, they tune down the high performers, tune up the weaker ones, and sell them all with the same exact certified output (but variable and undocumented runtimes). At least, that’s the claim and I have no reason to doubt them. And yes its costs double (or more) than most other similar flashlights, but I find them worth the expense. So while I agree it would be nice to see more makers doing this, you can have what you want right now.

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thanks for that info, interesting . . .

Quote:
HDS Systems is the only manufacturer to go the final step and calibrate each flashlight. We measure the output of each flashlight after it is completely assembled and adjust the output to produce the specified lumen output. This method allows the LED to warm up to operating temperature as part of the measurement process so the flashlight's true lumen output can be measured and adjusted under representative operating conditions. Thus, our 250 lumen flashlight can be counted on to actually produce 250 lumens.

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emarkd wrote:
Terry Oregon wrote:

I see a need in the flashlight world that isn’t currently being fulfilled on an affordable/practical basis.  Would be nice if:


(2) a flashlight manufacturer would sell tested lights with a calibration sheet showing that particular light was tested in a sphere. That might cost twice as much (or more) than a normal production run – but would be worth it as a reference.

You said “affordable/practical” then comment that you’d pay double for this service. At the risk of starting to sound like an HDS fanboi lol, I’ll just point out again that they do this with every light they sell, except instead of providing a certificate of that lights output, which would just lead to pissed off customers who didn’t get the brightest samples, they tune down the high performers, tune up the weaker ones, and sell them all with the same exact certified output (but variable and undocumented runtimes). At least, that’s the claim and I have no reason to doubt them. And yes its costs double (or more) than most other similar flashlights, but I find them worth the expense. So while I agree it would be nice to see more makers doing this, you can have what you want right now.


I think he meant something more like starting out with a Convoy S2+ for $15 and then getting it measured and then selling it for $30.
HDS is in a very different price category ($230-$300).

Maybe a tested light under $50?

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maukka wrote:
If the integrating properties aren’t perfect it’s better to calibrate using a light with a reflector, since that’s what the tube will be used for.

The S2+ on a med mode and the BLF348 are very stable so they’ll do fine.

edit: the power supply suggestion is good. TA could just send the head of an S2+ without a driver with leads hanging out from the MCPCB. If he has an accurate PSU we could just drive it at 100mA to take the battery out of the equation.

Hi boss, do you have a list of light that you measured with your integration sphere?

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I am getting my lumen tube today. Yay .

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Newlumen wrote:
Hi boss, do you have a list of light that you measured with your integration sphere?

You can check my started threads after 7/2017. All the reviews done after have been made using the sphere.

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I got mine last Friday, but have not had time to do anything with it yet.
It looks like rain today though so maybe I’ll have time to check it out further.

Well done TA, the tube looks well made!

Thank you……. Thumbs Up

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Terry Oregon
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Quote:
At the risk of starting to sound like an HDS fanboi lol, I’ll just point out again that they do this with every light they sell, except instead of providing a certificate of that lights output, which would just lead to pissed off customers who didn’t get the brightest samples, they tune down the high performers, tune up the weaker ones, and sell them all with the same exact certified output (but variable and undocumented runtimes). At least, that’s the claim and I have no reason to doubt them.

 

Out of curiosity, I emailed HDS and asked what equipment they use to calibrate each light.  They replied right away.

 

Quote:
We happen to have a SphereOptics NIST-tracable spectrographic system.

My reviews: , J5 Tactical V1 Pro LINK and Thirteen Optical Sensors LINK and a short review Zebralight SC700d LINK

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I just received my sphere today too. The box was all wet because the USPS guy just left it at my door without ringing door bell last night. I won’t have time to play with it this week but will do so after and report back.

Newlumen
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I got the lumen tube.. is the flashlight bezel suppose to touch this thingy ???

6_A11_EBE8-_C472-475_A-8_D45-366_EB2127_FA4

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Newlumen wrote:
I got the lumen tube.. is the flashlight bezel suppose to touch this thingy ???

6_A11_EBE8-_C472-475_A-8_D45-366_EB2127_FA4

Big Smile ….No…..

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Newlumen wrote:
I got the lumen tube.. is the flashlight bezel suppose to touch this thingy ???

6_A11_EBE8-_C472-475_A-8_D45-366_EB2127_FA4

Glad you got it!

That is the diffuser, you don’t want to put the light directly on it or it could melt.

The centering rings should be inside a bubble mailer in the box. Simply pick the one that best matches the light you want to measure and lay it on top of the PVC. It should fit inside the lip at the top of the PVC.

Then simply hold the light roughly level with the centering ring, move it in and out until you get the best readings.

It should come pretty naturally once you try a few lights.

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