I like things that are thick and durable. I have several convoy s2-type flashlights, those are good quality but the thickness of the aluminium body does not satisfy my need. Could you recommend me some flashlights that have really thick wall, preferably 18650 lights.
I have found that Haikelite sc01 and sc02 have a good thickness but the size is a bit big for me.
Thanks
The emisar D4’s have a thicker wall than the s2+’s.
At the body threads I measure:
S2+ 1.44mm
D4 1.9mm
Thickest part of the body
S2+ 2.62mm
D4 2.79mm
Yes, D4 is got a decent thick wall but I feel it’s fairly weak (soft) It chipped a bit when I dropped it from pocket height… And the paint on it also comes off easy… Very good powerful light but I feel I need to be very careful with it…
Thickest 18650 flashlight I owned is P1D. However, I don’t think it make much different than othet quality flashlights in term of toughness.
Thrunite Catapult V1, V2, V3, V5.
In the German forum the’re called “bright crowbars”. I feel that’s a description that fits. 
Cheers,
Nico
:+1: :+1:
V3 is my favourite. :sunglasses:
On The Road claims their M5 14500/AA has a 4.5mm tube.
Scroll about halfway down to see a pic of the tube end.
The TrustFire TRJ20 has incredibly thick walls, overbuilt top to bottom. 
If you’re talking small, the Jaxman E3 has robust construction that can stand being driven over by a car.
For a mid-size, along the lines of the HD2010, check out Jaxman’s X1… it’s a one piece body-head-tube with a tail cap and a bezel, thick walls and once again, very robust construction. From the top of the fins where the bezel screws on to the threads that the tail cap screws onto is one solid piece. Well done light!
Nitecore EF1
yuhsin, the Emisar is an anodized light with color added before being sealed. No paint. The ano may chip off due to a thin ano layer perhaps, which is most likely a Type II as Type III doesn’t take color well, which is why Type III is usually black.
Edit: When anodizing aluminum, there is a system of cores (like tubes) formed into the surface of the metal that is much like a honey bee’s comb. Before sealing the top’s of these cores die can be added to color the surface. The pores are small though, so depending on the grade of ano being applied some colored dies have too large a structure to fit inside the tube. Typically Type III Military Grade anodization has the smallest tubes and since black die has the smallest structure it fits.
Ano chips off when a sub-grade metal is used or the anodization depth is quite thin. Much like in Cerakoting, the supporting metal underneath the treatment must be strong enough to resist intrusion or the coating itself will fail. Like when I tested the Eagle Eye X6 with a claimed Type III coating by tossing it out the window of a car moving 60 mph… sliding on the asphalt surface did no damage at all, but impacts that dented the metal itself exposed bare metal in a few places when the light caught a rock and began flipping. I video’d this and you can clearly hear the light sliding/skidding but there are no scratches on the sides of the light from this sliding action.
For the money, this is one of the best lights out there and one of my favorites. I have 12 in various configurations. 
Dale, why didn’t it turn on?
The battery cap crushed on impact, not enabling contact. (top side dented in, too short to reach between the springs)
Gotcha!
Ended up making that light a triple, have it and working well to this day.
Nitecore EF1
Rayovac Indestructible Flashlight (though it’s only 2 AA).
HDS lights a very beefy as well.
