Convoy S2+ Triple & P60 Quad Nichias 4500k R9080 Build

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AnhTran
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Convoy S2+ Triple & P60 Quad Nichias 4500k R9080 Build

Today I received my order of copper pills from kiriba-ru and i have built three flashlights at once. Two convoy Triple and one Solarforce Quad.

The order is very well packaged.



Quite happy with the extra plastic box so now i can organise my small flashlight parts.

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Copper MCPCB from Intl-outdoor and 7135*8 driver from Convoy. Nichia 219B sw45k R9080 leds


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Reflow Leds using a hot plate

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Test with a 7135*3 driver


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Copper foil to maximise heat transfer

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Reflow another triple pcb

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I used the pill to minimise the distance between the leds and the pcb so heat can transfer better since solder isn’t good at heat transfer. I think the pills is too heavy for this job, however i can’t find anything lighter and the led optics is pretty hard so it wasn’t a problem.

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I intended to use more than enough solder in one triple pcb

the other triple


assemble everything together





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Conclusion:
I like the frosted Convoy S2+ most, it is the best for indoor use, tint is amazing.
There is a bit tint shift in the convoy with clear optic, more yellow at the center.
The Solarforce is good but can’t half click to change mode while the light is on, so i have to half click when the light is off to change mode first and full click at the preferred mode.

Edited by: AnhTran on 04/26/2018 - 09:23
MascaratumB
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Niiiiice Love
Great work Wink This year I built my first triples so I’m growing fond of these builds Wink

One question and eventual suggestion: the Solarforce has a Forwward Clicky switch?
If so, and it you like a quick access to turbo and also the possibility to chose modes before full clicking, I would suggest this driver from MTN with the guppy3drv firmware!

I’ve been using a S2+ triple with that driver and FW and love it Wink
Again, nice work!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 & Tool 25

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses:1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135 / Triple TIR & XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

 

vresto
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why you everybody make this triples?
small body,just for seconds..and hot in seconds..more floody,but not big difference with stock convoy with fet driver…

EDC- Jetbeam E40R,Astrolux S43 XPLHI

Headlamp-Thrunite th30

MascaratumB
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vresto wrote:
why you everybody make this triples? small body,just for seconds..and hot in seconds..more floody,but not big difference with stock convoy with fet driver…

For fun; for pleasure; for the challenge to make a mod; for the sake of having a floodier beam; for the sake of trying new things Wink

You are right about the premises you’ve pointed out, but…this is one of thing that makes this hobby funny Big Smile

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 & Tool 25

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses:1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135 / Triple TIR & XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

 

vresto
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yes yes..i did the same months ago:))) but the blf a6 is really a milestone…hard to beat:)

EDC- Jetbeam E40R,Astrolux S43 XPLHI

Headlamp-Thrunite th30

AnhTran
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MascaratumB wrote:
Niiiiice Love
Great work Wink This year I built my first triples so I’m growing fond of these builds Wink

One question and eventual suggestion: the Solarforce has a Forwward Clicky switch?
If so, and it you like a quick access to turbo and also the possibility to chose modes before full clicking, I would suggest this driver from MTN with the guppy3drv firmware!

I’ve been using a S2+ triple with that driver and FW and love it Wink
Again, nice work!


Thank you!
I like the idea of fully regulated than the direct driven because I don’t know how much is the current when it is direct driven, would it become too much? Maybe i will try that driver when i have more knowledge, for now i would like to keep the current limit at safe level.
AnhTran
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vresto wrote:
why you everybody make this triples? small body,just for seconds..and hot in seconds..more floody,but not big difference with stock convoy with fet driver…

For me, i make the convoy triple because i want a bright light that uses the nichia 219b r9080 (i have changed over half of my flashlights’leds to this led, now i’m a bit regret because I didn’t keep a variety of leds for comparison).

And secondly, a triple/quad light will be more durable because each led will be driven at lower current, and lower current also means higher efficiency, that’s what i think Big Smile

BlueSwordM
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@Anhtran, you are right. Especially at only 1A per LED with a regulated driver, the output is going to stay constant for a much longer time, even at lower levels with PWM, since the LEDs aren’t driven hard at all, which is a big win for wanting efficiency and constant light output.

Also, where did you find 219Bs R9080s? I thought you couldn’t get these anymore, and had to buy E21As from virence.com.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

ImA4Wheelr
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Very nice builds AnhTran.   Thanks for sharing them with us.  You probably know this, but just in case.  Swapping in a reverse clickie switch in that SolarForce should give you the mode switching operation that you appear to want.

AnhTran
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BlueSwordM wrote:
@Anhtran, you are right. Especially at only 1A per LED with a regulated driver, the output is going to stay constant for a much longer time, even at lower levels with PWM, since the LEDs aren’t driven hard at all, which is a big win for wanting efficiency and constant light output.

Also, where did you find 219Bs R9080s? I thought you couldn’t get these anymore, and had to buy E21As from virence.com.


I got over a hundred those from a local producer a while ago and still have some for sale. I have a thread for that.
AnhTran
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Very nice builds AnhTran.   Thanks for sharing them with us.  You probably know this, but just in case.  Swapping in a reverse clickie switch in that SolarForce should give you the mode switching operation that you appear to want.


Thank you for that, I don’t know much about switches. I also quite like the one thing about the Solarforce’s switch that i can turn on and off the light temporarily quickly without a full click. Is there any switch that have the advantages of both Big Smile
AnhTran
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I didn’t use any thermal paste, it was mainly the pressure from the optic legs that push the pcb to the pills. I’m not sure if overtime the optics legs can melt and damage the leds

kiriba-ru
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Great photos Anh!
Im using similar size hot plate and I have to say that soldering leds on bare pcb is little risky. You should not exceed 1.0-1.5 deg./sec temperature raise for modern leds, and this impossible with such powerfull hot plate.
But, you can fix two problems (fast temperature raise and pcb fixing) with one trick. If you are using copper or brass pill you can solder it to the pcb same time when you solder leds to pcb. Extra mass will prevent fast temperature raise, thermal pass between pill to solder and solder to pcb give extra several degrees difference so this lower solder layer flows before leds and you can easily determine when process is ready.

FPV
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great build, thanks for sharing.

AnhTran
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Great photos Anh!
Im using similar size hot plate and I have to say that soldering leds on bare pcb is little risky. You should not exceed 1.0-1.5 deg./sec temperature raise for modern leds, and this impossible with such powerfull hot plate.
But, you can fix two problems (fast temperature raise and pcb fixing) with one trick. If you are using copper or brass pill you can solder it to the pcb same time when you solder leds to pcb. Extra mass will prevent fast temperature raise, thermal pass between pill to solder and solder to pcb give extra several degrees difference so this lower solder layer flows before leds and you can easily determine when process is ready.

Last time i used a pan but it took too long to reflows. So this time i just slowly incrase the power of the hot plate. But the problem is it took too long for the hot plate to cool down, i dont want to take the pcb out after reflows occurs because i want to place the pill on the leds while the solder still melting.
I didn’t use any solder or thermal past between pill and pcb, just used pressure from optic legs, do you think this would cause the leds to overheat?
Also do you think that the convoy s2+ with copper pill or the p60 with copper pill would be better at heat transfer? Thanks
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You are right. But if you solder leds together with pill, you can remove this set from hot plate and extra mass will also help to avoid fast temperature decrease.
All depends from pressure that holds pcb in place: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53514
If I got last question right, you want to compare two configs? P60 with foil is better, thread fitting is not best way to transfer heat. But (I have probably mentioned this more than 100 times) actual power is limited by host area.

AnhTran
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kiriba-ru wrote:
You are right. But if you solder leds together with pill, you can remove this set from hot plate and extra mass will also help to avoid fast temperature decrease.
All depends from pressure that holds pcb in place: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53514
If I got last question right, you want to compare two configs? P60 with foil is better, thread fitting is not best way to transfer heat. But (I have probably mentioned this more than 100 times) actual power is limited by host area.

Thank you for the link. I also think that thread fitting is not good at heat transfer because I believe that the actual contact area at thread is very small. However the p60 also have thread at the head, so cooling might be limited, although it migh have good heat transfer to the body. Also do you think that the optic legs would melted over time?
kiriba-ru
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If heat transfert is good, you will burn your hand much before carclo lens start melting.