The CREE "Angular-Tint-Shift" flaw syndrome..It's causing brain damage.

I call it the CATSS, “Cree AngularTint Shift Syndrome”.

It seems like a problem that is very miss-understood, but we all seen it from Cree LED emitters for years, and Cree still don’t seem to understand how to fix it in the way that Nichia & Luxeon has mastered the phosphor coating & design to make it right.
Incandescent lights don’t have it, fluorescent don’t have it, HID don’t have it, but LED technology still suffers from the limitations of how the dies work as a flat emittance device covered on blue-reactive phosphor compounds.
I don’t know of others are annoyed or notice the nauseating tint shift in the beams of nearly 70% of the LED flashlights equipped with Cree LEDs ever sold in the last 8 ~ 10 years, but i noticed that Cree has not really improved on this on most all their standard domed-LED emitters. Most all XP-G, XP-G2, XM-L, XM-L2, XP-L, XHP-50 & XHP70 ( and the V2 versions) have a bad tint-shift through the viewing angle of these domed emitters. Sadly the newest XHP & XP-L series LEDs have the worst angular-tint shift. ( one reason i have not been able to like the XHP series of LEDs over the MT-G2.)
The Cree MT-G2 probably has the least angular tint shift of any Cree LED ever made, and the High-Intensity (HI) versions of the XP-L and XHP-35 are not bad & much better than any domed Cree LED.

Cree domed LEDs in any shallow reflector, (like the original Olight Baton S10 & S20 lights) that were designed so badly that the tint shift made the beams look like a nauseating green radioactive booger hue.

The same goes for lanterns i built & modded with various LEDs. I sand the domes with 600-grit water paper to reduce that tint shift radiation in reflector-less lanterns. For example, if you take any domed Cree LED, (except the MT-G2) and power it up on a star with low amperage so it don’t over heat, then look at it at the various angles you will see it changes its tint color from a blue/white from the front, to a slight neutral white at 45 degrees, to a horrible cancer-causing green puss colored hue at 20 & less degrees to the side.

It seems that most people have grown to not notice it & gotten used to it. For example, if you take any of your domed Cree MED flashlights now & shine it on a white wall. Notice how the corona is likely a blush hue, then closer to around the hot spot it becomes more of a yellow or greet hue, then the hot spot is the intended tint (in “K”) to what the tint of the LED was offered as? now if you have a MT-G2 or Nichia 219 flashlight & do the same, the corona through the hot spot are closer to the same tint of white is supposed to be.

I seem to be more sensitive to this horrible tint shift than some others i feel. Every flashlight beam shot that i seen with a XM-L, XP-L, XHP-50 or XHP-70 domed emitter in it i nearly vomit. I only have one flashlight in my massive arsenal that has a XHP-70.2 in it, and that’s the Imalent DX80. I have not converted that to MT-G2s yet because of the cost of eight of them, (roughly $ 185 bucks for eight G0 5000K MT-G2 tax-in to upgrade the DX80 to eight MT-G2 emitters.) and the work to do the conversion. (added that the sheer lumens and wall of light that thing shoot out at 32000 lumens i don’t really care in that case) but either way i still irk at the tint.
Below are some photos showing how bad the angular-tint-shift is in Cree domed LEDs. (a Cree XM-L2 3B 5000K neutral white, in comparison to a Nichia 219B 5000K, placed 90 degrees to a white wall surface, and second photo showing a generic Luxeon 5000K “bead” LED that has a better tint consistency than the Cree XM-L2 5000K & even compared similar to the Nichia, which is one of the reasons besides the high CRI why we like the Nichia 219-series emitters in the first place is the balanced tint range in the beam profile) As you can see there of the difference where the XM-L2 has the tint shift… Notice how the Nichia & Luxeon-Bead has a linear tint through its viewing angle while the XM-L2 does not?

- I will test a MT-G2 & some HI-series of Cree XP-L soon in this manner to compare.

Lets hear your thoughts after you compare your Cree domed-LED lights to any Nichia or MT-G2 flashlights you have.

I have not tested any of the new Samsung 3535 emitters though yet to see their level of Angular tint-shift if they suffer from that…

I agree. In the darkness, you adapt to color temperature and tint, but if either of them isn’t consistent it’ll be quite evident. Some green or yellow doesn’t matter if there’s no neutral reference.

The Samsung LH351B and LH351D are quite good in this regard.

The LH series Samsung LEDs look promising. As you can see in the photo you posted the Samsung is a very even tint, but look at the XP-G3 at the very outer edge of the hot spot ring, it has that green hue tint shift known to domed Cree emitters.
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Usually I hear it called the Cree Rainbow… and maukka has measured it extensively. It’s also the reason why people have been avoiding XP-G3 emitters, because the increased efficiency comes at the cost of a significantly worse rainbow effect.

I wouldn’t exactly say it’s causing brain damage though, or that people haven’t noticed. That might be overstating things a bit.

I exaggerated on the brain damage part. :smiley:

I had to reply.

THIS! is why i gifted out my BLF A6, and bought XP-G2 over previously bought XP-G3 which I can’t use
XP-L HI is OK i think.
Nichia on the other hand is just so nice, but not so powerful

I don't think you can blame your damaged brain to Cree leds .
People who knew you before Cree ever started making leds will testify to the fact you may have filled one to many Coleman lanterns in your day . But take heart ...
.... creative and crazy are close cousins.

It appears to be difficult to get it right. Even Nichia has not really mastered it, the 144A has big tint shift problems caused (at least partly) by an uneven phosfor layer, giving an ‘egg-yolk’ problem in the beam. Egg-yolks also appear in some XP-L Hi beams, varying with individual leds, which is weird because you can not see looking at the led what is causing it.

The best beams I have seen in current leds are from the 219B, Luxeon V and LH351D. And with the trophy going to the E21A, a difficult led in use but when you got it working and centered: :heart_eyes:

1 Thank

lol I read all your post carefulky because of “brain damage” in your topic’s title.

That is why the only Cree LED’s I prefer are the XP-L HI and XHP35 HI, they seem to be the cleanest.

While this is not obvious from your beam shots, nichia 219b are also horrible as far as the tint shift is concerned.

The new e21 series are much better although far from perfect.

Nichias 083b and new Optisolis are completely free of any tint shift

It annoys me too much and that is why I am trying to exchange the emitters for the HI series. HP-L HI and XHP35 HI are clean. It is a pity that there is no XHP70.2 in the HI version.

Has anyone tried camera-type lens filters to see if a noticeable improvement can be detected?

Just wondering if it would be possible to correct these tint aberrations without affecting the original characteristics of the beam such as throw, spill, etc.

I’m also implying as well/tangentially that if AR glass is used is there any noticeable change to these tint aberrations vs a bare dome?

A filter glass would always alter all the parts of the beam, so also the good parts.

You could put a round filter (and a diffuser if necessary) on the center of the lens to only correct the spill/corona. Adjust size to fine tune.

Also totally not worth it, when you can just swap the emitter.

This is what I did. Problem solved but maukka is quite right. Just too much trouble.link

That modification of the hotspot+corona with a ring that sits under the bezel is certainly easier to install. Good thinking.

And this is my new grail. A mule with a zero tint shift. Just beautiful pure sunlight (kudos to Clemence, Tana, djozz) link

I forgot to mention that most higher grade SMD LEDs don’t have the angular tint shift issue, (probably because of the flat embedded die design of them, but they don’t make good LEDs for reflectors is a drawback.

Same here, I have swapped in many XP-L HI emitters in lights i use.