Olight S1 Mini High CRI and Utorch S1 Mini NW, now w N219b and E21A

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SKV89
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Jon, I doubt you will like the lh351d. For me I hate it as much as the 219c or even more. It is very greenish when compared to Cree A And D tint or E21A amd 219b 9080. You want an emitter with negative DUV. The Lh351D is positive duv.

TA is testing something very special which should look as good or better than the 219b 9080 but with better efficiency. We should have more options soon.

jon_slider
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SKV89 wrote:
Jon, I doubt you will like the lh351d. For me I hate it as much as the 219c or even more. It is very greenish when compared to Cree A And D tint or E21A amd 219b 9080. You want an emitter with negative DUV. The Lh351D is positive duv.

Thank You!

> You want an emitter with negative DUV

I had not learned to interpret below bbl via negative DUV.. super helpful that you helped make me aware of that spec.. until now I found it beyond my comprehension..

SKV89
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Positive DUV means above the BBL. negative DUV means below the BBL. That’s one of the most important parameter I look for in Maukka’s test reports.

Jerommel
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joechina wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
I have a LH351D (4000K) in my Utorch S1 mini. Works very well. Vf is not as low as Nichia. (but not as high as XP-L either) I also have a TIR optic in it, but the beam turned out a little narrower than i hoped.

How did you get the lamp apart?


I’ve seen pictures with the driver pill taken out, but i didn’t do that.
(i don’t know how to)
I only unscrewed the bezel, desoldered the 3 wires, removed the LED board and reflowed a LH351D onto it.

Then i shaved the LH351D (giving it a slightly warmer tint and towards under the BBL).

I put the LED board back with some polymer paste, centred the LED with the centring gaskets and put a weight on top to squish the paste to a very thin layer and let it cure for a day.

Then i re-soldered the wires (i replaced the little screw for the minus because it was quite loose in there, causing a bad electrical path).

I also put some UV curing glue (Kafuter) on the shaved surface, because it was not a smooth shave (at all…)
Cleaned / polished that afterwards.

So then i had the LED ready and positioned, and then i found a suitable TIR optic.
A 17mm one, which i glued in the bezel from the front (not from the back) with Kafuter.
Had to make it fit first by filing down the outer rim a little.

Kafuter (or similar) is great stuff.
It creeps between the parts you want to glue and bonds really well to metals.

I’m gonna do the same with my Klarus Mi1C, but it has much less room for the TIR.
Even after flattening the TIR front (removing the pebbled surface and leaving only a thin outer rim it is actually too deep and wants to stick out the front for proper focussing or sit too deep over the LED for bad focussing…
I’ll have to make the LED board thinner and use a dedomed LED to get the light source as deep as possible (optically speaking).
It’s a challenge…
But i dislike the stock optics (PMMA aspheric lens).

2Q19

jon_slider
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SKV89 wrote:
Positive DUV means above the BBL. negative DUV means below the BBL. That’s one of the most important parameter I look for in Maukka’s test reports.

awesome!
I see that the DUV goes from negative to positive when comparing a bare LED to a reflector.. aargh.. everything is everything

look here
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62195

bare sst-20 emitter has negative Duv
in a reflector the Duv is Positive

SKV89
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jon_slider wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Positive DUV means above the BBL. negative DUV means below the BBL. That’s one of the most important parameter I look for in Maukka’s test reports.

awesome!
I see that the DUV goes from negative to positive when comparing a bare LED to a reflector.. aargh.. everything is everything

look here
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62195

bare sst-20 emitter has negative Duv
in a reflector the Duv is Positive

Yea that is very common. I have a very very rosy 5D tint XHP70.2 80CRI but once I put the reflector on, it is a yellowish mess because the duv shot far up above the BBL. Same for the LH351D. Bare LED it is just a bit above the BBL and is almost tolerable but once you put TIR over it, it is horror film green light.

For this reason, we should always get as rosy emitter as possible so hopefully it remains at or below the BBL under reflectors or optics.

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SKV89 wrote:
I have a very very rosy 5D tint XHP70.2 80CRI but once I put the reflector on, it is a yellowish mess because the duv shot far up above the BBL. Same for the LH351D. Bare LED it is just a bit above the BBL and is almost tolerable but once you put TIR over it, it is horror film green light.

great info

I wonder if the issue is related to flip chip design, which increases total lumens because it emits light out the side of the LED, that is not the same tint as the light emitted out the front of the LED. I believe the XP-G3 and N219c have these tint issues, and I think they are flip chip designs.

I dont think the N219b is a flip chip design.. It does not seem to have the above BBL tint issues, and tint variation across the beam, of the others mentioned. I think the E21A is also consistent in tint across the beam and works well without needing a diffusing optic.

Jerommel
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@SKV89:
Well, i have a domed LH351D (from led4power) in a smooth 40mm reflector, and i don’t find it green at all.
Yes, compared to rosie Nichias they look more green, of course.
But that’s not a good reference.

But, i also used a ‘corona killer’ in there (in this case a centring gasket with very high rim, shrouding the LED), so that the positive DUV light form the sides doesn’t hit the reflector but is mixed with the negative DUV light of the spill.

2Q19

Geuzzz
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Jerommel, do you have a link to the optics you used?

joechina
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@Jerommel, thanks for the elaborated answer!
What kind of kafuter UV glue have you?
K300 is the kind I have.

There are different kinds
- k300 for Glass to Glass
- k302 for Glass to Metal
- k303 for Glass to plastics/acrylics
- k305 = Non transparent, impact resistant glue

Jerommel
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Geuzzz wrote:
Jerommel, do you have a link to the optics you used?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-XML-lens-T5-T6-U2-Lens-Diameter-17mm...
Various angles available.
Good TIRs.
Skilhunt uses these in their angle lights.
Made to snugly fit over 5050 LEDs, but you can use them for smaller LEDs too, of course, but you may have to centre it otherwise.

2Q19

Jerommel
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joechina wrote:
@Jerommel, thanks for the elaborated answer!
What kind of kafuter UV glue have you?
K300 is the kind I have.

There are different kinds
- k300 for Glass to Glass
- k302 for Glass to Metal
- k303 for Glass to plastics/acrylics
- k305 = Non transparent, impact resistant glue

It’s all Chinese on the bottle, so i don’t know.
Bought it from Fasttech at the time.
I think it’s glass to glass, but it sticks quite well to other materials too.
Not too well on plastics though, but in the case of a TIR on stainless steel, the TIR sits in there very sturdy.
Probably because it flows a little around the edges.

2Q19

Geuzzz
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Jerommel wrote:
Geuzzz wrote:
Jerommel, do you have a link to the optics you used?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-XML-lens-T5-T6-U2-Lens-Diameter-17mm... Various angles available. Good TIRs. Skilhunt uses these in their angle lights. Made to snugly fit over 5050 LEDs, but you can use them for smaller LEDs too, of course, but you may have to centre it otherwise.

Thnx!

joechina
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Jon look here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1441268#comment-1441268

a board for the Utorch S1 mini from Cereal Killer

jon_slider
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thanks for sharing that info joechina, I hope the new board helps others to enjoy the unique advantages of Aspheric lens lights like the Utorch S1 Mini.

My most used Utorch S1 Mini has an N219b 4500k 9080 mod by Texas Ace.. the board has its issues, but the LED and the Lens are awesome!

paul-home
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Hi! I have a Utorch S1 mini and love it. Unfortunately I have lost the rubber cover that goes over the switch. Could anyone tell me where I could get a replacement?
Thank you for a wonderful forum.

joechina
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Welcome to BLF!

You have still guarantee on your light. Ask Olight.
Olight parts are hard to get.

Edit: Ups you have an Utorch

jon_slider
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paul-home wrote:
Hi! I have a Utorch S1 mini and love it. Unfortunately I have lost the rubber cover that goes over the switch. Could anyone tell me where I could get a replacement? Thank you for a wonderful forum.

Welcome, no, I dont know where to get a switch cover for your Utorch, thanks for letting me know they can be lost, mine have not moved, if they do, I will be forced to buy another Utorch to get a complete light again..

any guess what caused the rubber cover to your Utorch switch to come off?
for example, was the light mashing around in a pocket full of keys and coins, or can you suggest any other possible causes?

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