High CRI LED Strips from China

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alfas
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High CRI LED Strips from China

I was looking for some high CRI led stripes from China and came across this store:

https://ledstriplight.aliexpress.com/store/group/CRI-95-LED-Strip-Light-SMD5630/3628166_1000000228993.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.13f560b5OJJoq6

The store offers 95CRI strips, 90CRI strips, 80CRI strip. Apparently, they know what they are selling. Any one have any inputs about these items?

BlueSwordM
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These are real nice, and legit high CRI LED strips.

There is a reason for why they are much more expensive than regular LED strips.

Example video for their legitimacy and uses :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlMtakaa7u8

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

SKV89
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Nice Ive been looking for legitimate high cri strips for awhile. Ive found some real high end ones that have a rosy warm tint and high cri but with a price to match. Does anyone know if the warm version of these are yellowish or rosy?

alfas
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BlueSwordM wrote:
These are real nice, and legit high CRI LED strips.

There is a reason for why they are much more expensive than regular LED strips.

Example video for their legitimacy and uses :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlMtakaa7u8

Hey that’s an excellent video, thanks for sharing!

I have talked to the vendor and he is very kind. I asked for the real measurements of these strips and he sent me the warm light led measurements and the daylight led measurements. Results seem great! I am really happy with the price if these results are true:

Lexel
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if they would make 24V with current regulators that would be great

alfas
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Lexel wrote:
if they would make 24V with current regulators that would be great

Take a look at the video posted by bluesword:

BlueSwordM wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlMtakaa7u8

The guy wires them in order to use 19V and control the intensity via 10kHz PWM

Lexel
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alfas wrote:
Lexel wrote:
if they would make 24V with current regulators that would be great

Take a look at the video posted by bluesword:

BlueSwordM wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlMtakaa7u8

The guy wires them in order to use 19V and control the intensity via 10kHz PWM

still the voltage on an end of a strip is always lower as where the cennection is
using 19V PWM is just stupid, as the current is well over the rated with a tint shift

I have done 120LED/m 5070 stips with connections on both ends and 2m lenght, there is a decent voltage drop of about 1.5V in the middle

alfas
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Lexel wrote:
using 19V PWM is just stupid, as the current is well over the rated with a tint shift

Lexel, good point. I am still learning about this so let me see if I understand it correctly: using 19V on a 24V setup will increase the current thought the Leds (as the resistance will not change) causing the tint shift, right? What would happen with the opposite? Powering a 24V with 30V for example. The current would decrease? and it would also cause color tint shift?

Let me ask you something about the tint shift in another situation if I wanted a really low output from these lights (I know I can always use PWM at the stated voltage, but for the sake of theory): what happened if I power a 12V led strip with a 5V powerbank? The current would increase until the USB reach its max current. And that is probably too low. These leds would run with less current, would they also have tint shift (or would they turn on at all)?

The second situation would be the follolwing: powering a 12V led strip with a limited current 12V power supply. The leds would be less bright and less color accurate?

Thanks

Lexel
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alfas wrote:
Lexel wrote:
using 19V PWM is just stupid, as the current is well over the rated with a tint shift

Lexel, good point. I am still learning about this so let me see if I understand it correctly: using 19V on a 24V setup will increase the current thought the Leds (as the resistance will not change) causing the tint shift, right? What would happen with the opposite? Powering a 24V with 30V for example. The current would decrease? and it would also cause color tint shift?

Let me ask you something about the tint shift in another situation if I wanted a really low output from these lights (I know I can always use PWM at the stated voltage, but for the sake of theory): what happened if I power a 12V led strip with a 5V powerbank? The current would increase until the USB reach its max current. And that is probably too low. These leds would run with less current, would they also have tint shift (or would they turn on at all)?

The second situation would be the follolwing: powering a 12V led strip with a limited current 12V power supply. The leds would be less bright and less color accurate?

Thanks

normal USB power bank cant light 12V strips

Powering 12V strip the safe way is 100% current no PWN,
then measure on the strips input voltage where the leads are soldered and adjust the PSU voltage till it reaches 12V, maybe a few 0.1V more

Depending on current, gauge and length of the cables this may be 12.5-13.5V

if he is using 19V thats just stupid pulsing the LEDs current likely over their specs

L4M4
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19V on a 12V strip is killing them – no matter if he is using PWM or not.
19V on a 24V Strip will barely light the LEDs up and they will pretty much live forever Silly

12V Stripe on 5V Powerbank doesn’t work – 3 LEDs in series need ~7-8V to light up a tiny bit.

SKV89
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alfas wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
These are real nice, and legit high CRI LED strips.

There is a reason for why they are much more expensive than regular LED strips.

Example video for their legitimacy and uses :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlMtakaa7u8

Hey that’s an excellent video, thanks for sharing!

I have talked to the vendor and he is very kind. I asked for the real measurements of these strips and he sent me the warm light led measurements and the daylight led measurements. Results seem great! I am really happy with the price if these results are true:

!https://i.imgur.com/yNE865q.jpg!

Wow their WW 3000k actually has a negative DUV value and 93.53 R9!!! I’ve been searching for good led strips for my home decor and all the Amazon ones I bought have very yellowish/greenish tint. I would love to buy a 3000k one but they only sell NW 4000k-4500k and CW 5500k-6000k.

alfas
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SKV89 wrote:
Wow their WW 3000k actually has a negative DUV value and 93.53 R9!!! I’ve been searching for good led strips for my home decor and all the Amazon ones I bought have very yellowish/greenish tint. I would love to buy a 3000k one but they only sell NW 4000k-4500k and CW 5500k-6000k.

No, they also have the warm white! For some reason it is not listed there, but here is the link:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MARSWALLED-High-CRI-RA-95-LED-Strip-Light-SMD5630-Super-Bright-Warm-White-Nonwaterproof-2800K-3200K/32864940172.html

*Note that the measuments on the pics I posted show CRI97 for the warm white(!) and CRI95 for the daylight white.

BlueSwordM
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Well, guys, he actually connected 2×12V LED strips in series, then to reduce heat output and boost efficiency, he put 19v instead of a 24V power supply. Then he uses PWM to reduce power even further.

He wouldn’t be that dumb to power a single LED strip with 19V+PWM. That is why he put 2 in series. Watch the whole video, and you will understand.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

SKV89
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alfas wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Wow their WW 3000k actually has a negative DUV value and 93.53 R9!!! I’ve been searching for good led strips for my home decor and all the Amazon ones I bought have very yellowish/greenish tint. I would love to buy a 3000k one but they only sell NW 4000k-4500k and CW 5500k-6000k.

No, they also have the warm white! For some reason it is not listed there, but here is the link:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MARSWALLED-High-CRI-RA-95-LED-Strip-Light-SMD5630-Super-Bright-Warm-White-Nonwaterproof-2800K-3200K/32864940172.html

*Note that the measuments on the pics I posted show CRI97 for the warm white(!) and CRI95 for the daylight white.

Ah nice thanks!

alfas
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L4M4 wrote:
19V on a 12V strip is killing them – no matter if he is using PWM or not.
19V on a 24V Strip will barely light the LEDs up and they will pretty much live forever Silly

12V Stripe on 5V Powerbank doesn’t work – 3 LEDs in series need ~7-8V to light up a tiny bit.

Thanks, exactly what I wanted to know.

BlueSwordM wrote:
Well, guys, he actually connected 2×12V LED strips in series, then to reduce heat output and boost efficiency, he put 19v instead of a 24V power supply. Then he uses PWM to reduce power even further.

He wouldn’t be that dumb to power a single LED strip with 19V+PWM. That is why he put 2 in series. Watch the whole video, and you will understand.

I understood that but, at first, I though Lexel had not. I was going to explain this to him, but then I tried to think.

He stated:

Lexel wrote:
using 19V PWM is just stupid, as the current is well over the rated with a tint shift

Undervoltaging means more current (since the resistance does not change), right? As he stated, more current = color shift.
So, I think he meant undervoltaging a 24V LED system to 19V means more current, so tint shift. Did I understand right?

L4M4
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Undervolting means less current – until the LEDs don’t light up at all.
The forward voltage of every LED gets less if you lower the current – and vice versa.

Visualisation:

The more current you want, the more voltage you need
The more voltage you want, the more current you need
So, if you give the LED which this graph is about exactly 3V, it will draw ~75mA. It is impossible to run this LED with 3V and 300mA.

24V LED-Stripe on a 19V Power Supply means lower current, therefore a tint shift.
PWM dimming doesn’t affect the tint as hard as dimming via current does, but it does.

alfas
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L4M4 wrote:
Undervolting means less current – until the LEDs don’t light up at all.
The forward voltage of every LED gets less if you lower the current – and vice versa.

Visualisation:

The more current you want, the more voltage you need
The more voltage you want, the more current you need
So, if you give the LED which this graph is about exactly 3V, it will draw ~75mA. It is impossible to run this LED with 3V and 300mA.

24V LED-Stripe on a 19V Power Supply means lower current, therefore a tint shift.
PWM dimming doesn’t affect the tint as hard as dimming via current does, but it does.

Understood, thanks for the nice explanation and graph! I was stuck with Ohm law, U=Ri but apparently the resistance of the LEDs are not constant.

But aren’t these leds connected with a much higher resistor in the strips? I thought that this much higher (and fixed) resistance is the one who will determine the current through the strip?

TBone
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Just a short note: These are large LEDs so there are ‘only’ 60 LEDs per meter.

For some illumination purposes you will see single spots at closer range or the reflection of dots on shiny surfaces.

There are other strips with more smaller LEDs, like this (240 LEDs/m).

SKV89
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Found another 90CRI strip. I asked for the 3000k version and they showed me a test report showing x=0.4275 and y=0.3814, which calculates into a DUV of -0.008, which is very nicely rosy! Perfect for the living room or bedroom use!

BlueSwordM
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Holy crap. An R9080 LED strip. That is dope AF.

The only thing disappointing is the low R12, and the efficiency of 61lm/W.

That last one was expected though at 4000k and R9080 LEDs.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Agro
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SKV89 wrote:
Found another 90CRI strip. I asked for the 3000k version and they showed me a test report showing x=0.4275 and y=0.3814, which calculates into a DUV of -0.008, which is very nicely rosy! Perfect for the living room or bedroom use!

!https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB19AIYfFkoBKNjSZFEq6zrEVXa8.jpg!


The question is: how do you know it’s real?
One thing that doesn’t add up is efficacy. Half of what is in the description.

But if it really does what they say, that’s a nice strip.

L4M4
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61lm/W
good God…
That’s why I don’t buy chinese LEDs anymore – efficiency-wise they stand still for the last 10 years.
The Samsung LM301B are over 200Lm/W and some other LEDs are very close to 100CRI/Ra – It’s just a matter of time until they get combined.
That said, the 80CRI of the LM301B is not bad, I have several 4000K modules, but 3000 and 5000K as well – I would use them for house lighting anytime.

SKV89
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L4M4 wrote:
61lm/W good God… That’s why I don’t buy chinese LEDs anymore – efficiency-wise they stand still for the last 10 years. The Samsung LM301B are over 200Lm/W and some other LEDs are very close to 100CRI/Ra – It’s just a matter of time until they get combined. That said, the 80CRI of the LM301B is not bad, I have several 4000K modules, but 3000 and 5000K as well – I would use them for house lighting anytime.

Where do you buy the Samsung strips? Are there test results? Wjere do you find led strips with 100CRI?

Im interested not just in the CRI or R9, the tint is just as important if not more. I cant stand yellowish greenish tint. It needs to be under BBL for me and the ALI one I posted has a DUV of a whoping -0.008. That might be the reason why the efficiency is not good. It is like a Nichia 219B 9080. Beautiful tint but poor efficiency.
L4M4
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I never wrote something of stripes Smile

https://www.led-tech.de/en/21x-Samsung-LM301B-stripe-4000k
8.7W 1545Lm

High CRI for example the Seoul SunLike with CRI 97
COBs, yes, but it shows, that a high CRI isn’t impossible.

There are manufacturers of stripes on AliBaba, but none of AliExpress.
I don’t really understand, why.

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If the Samsung LEDs were R9080, I would have believed you.

But they are only 80CRI, and they are bigger die LEDs than the LEDs from the other R9080 strips.

You can’t really compare them together.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

L4M4
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Doesn’t change anything about that LEDs with 61Lm/W are not worth buying in 2018.

Agro
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L4M4 wrote:
Doesn’t change anything about that LEDs with 61Lm/W are not worth buying in 2018.

These are not LEDs but strips with current limiting resistors. Possibly driving the LEDs at more than optimal current. At 3000K CRI 9080.
61 lm/W is not really good, but it’s not particularly bad.
SKV89
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L4M4 wrote:
Doesn’t change anything about that LEDs with 61Lm/W are not worth buying in 2018.

You cannot compare efficiency of LEDs with LED strips. The resistance (losses) through the strip is tremendous. It’s like comparing the horsepower at the crank vs at the wheels but many times worst. Many of these 16.4’ strips actually have visible dimming at the end of the strips due to resistance losses. To me the tint is even more important than CRI for interior lighting and most of the ones I bought were too yellow/green or did not have enough red/rosy tint in them for my tint snob eyes. During my house remodeling I bought about two dozen different types of LED strips from Amazon and local stores including cheap and premium brands and weren’t happy with any. I then found a random low cost $10 strip from a website I never heard of at the time (Aliexpress) and bought it. It was the brightest and best tinted (not sure about CRI) led strip I’ve seen yet so I ordered another 10 because I used it in all my rooms and kitchen.

Now if anyone know of any LED STRIPs with good tint (negative DUV) and 90+ CRI with better efficiency or higher brightness than the ones posted above, regardless of price, please post. I’ve looked hard for LED strips and even tried the expensive stuff but still haven’t found any ideal LED strips.

SKV89
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L4M4 wrote:
I never wrote something of stripes Smile

https://www.led-tech.de/en/21x-Samsung-LM301B-stripe-4000k
8.7W 1545Lm

High CRI for example the Seoul SunLike with CRI 97
COBs, yes, but it shows, that a high CRI isn’t impossible.

There are manufacturers of stripes on AliBaba, but none of AliExpress.
I don’t really understand, why.

I took a look at the data sheet of the Samsungs and looks like they will be averaging above the BBL so it’s going to be on the green side unless you can select tint bins. I’m guess this is similar to the high cri Cree emitters that are famous for having the highest efficiencies but piss ugly tint.

L4M4
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I have those Modules in 3000K, 4000K and 5000K – none of them has any ugly tint – and I had a ton of 5m cheapo stripes with yellowish “warm” white or blueish “cold” white.

SKV89
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I just tested the following:
Marswalled 3000k and got these results:
CCT: 3076K
CRI (Ra): 96.2
DUV: -0.0060
R9: 97.9
Rg: 104
Rf: 95

Sidawang 3000k
CCT: 2990K
CRI (Ra): 91.9
DUV: -0.0081
R9: 90.5
Rg: 99
Rf: 88

Sidawang 4000k
CCT: 4322K
CRI: 96.3
DUV: -0.0055
R9: 97.4
Rg: 99
Rf: 89

I plan to use the 3000k under kitchen cabinets and living room. The 4000k is great for garage. However, these lights emit too much blue wavelengths to be used in the bedroom. I’m going to buy 2700k for the bedroom.

Edit: I just installed the Sidawang 3000k under cabinet and at first I thought I accidentally installed the 4000k version because it looked so neutral white compared to my older 3000k led strips that were turned on at the same time. I then measured their CCT and surprisingly the Sidawang 3000k was actually about 50k warmer than my previous 3000k strips. My previous 3000k had a duv of 0.005x. The lower DUV on the Sidawang made it look 1000k cooler. Not sure if that is a good thing or not because I like some warmth in my emitters. I will try the 2700k and hopefully the very negative duv will make it look just right. Btw, I don’t really notice rosiness in the Sidawang 3000k in actual use. The older 3000k strip looks very yellow/lime in comparison though.

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