Hello everyone!I found these pads while searching on Ali and I was wondering,is there any space between the older brass type pils and the driver?What about the integrated ones?I now there’s space with thin drivers but what about the 7135 ones?These pads start at 0.3 mm so I guess 1-2 should fit down there.
What light are you thinking about doing this with?
If you’re talking about something like the Convoy S2+, I wouldn’t actually do it, because the LED is the part that generates most of the heat. If you pack the space between the driver and the MCPCB shelf with heatsink pads, you’ll actually be transferring some heat from the LED to the driver, so the driver will be more likely to overheat, not less.
Actually,I’m thinking about adding some pads on the bottom of the pill,not taking it off.Just beef it up and try to spread the heat faster.If the copper takes heat fast from the brass pill,it should take more time for the pill to reach the limit when the driver will step down.Do I miss something,or would that actually work?
You’re thinking about doing something like this where I made a copper & aluminium plug.
If there’s extra space in the pill I usually fill most of it with more conducting material, aluminium or copper.
The copper squares aren’t the best for the job but give it a try. The first time I did these mods was with the squares soldered together then started using solid bar.
Depending on what driver you have, say thermally regulated drivers, it might be advantageous to have very close contact to the driver and filling what space is left with silicone cubes. Other drivers I would leave a slight a gap.
LED4Power sells ready made units for the S2.
That’s exactly what I’m thinking!Nice job,by the way!I contacted LED4Power to ask if I can use the kit with another driver and he said that it won’t work due to the 7135 driver’s components being higher than their driver.So I thought of fitting something slimmer that could do the job.The solid bar idea is much better,thanks!Did you see any results from that?
I’m also thinking about making a “sandwich” with copper and aluminium pads.The copper would absord the heat transfering it to the aluminium which is less efficient,taking more time to heat up.I don’t know if it will work but I’m willing to experiment.
Thanks, yeah the solid bar can be cut to the required length, then drilled, filed if need be, always good to have some 12mm-20mm cuttings handy.
Adding extra mass just gives you a little more time before saturation, the heat still needs to dumped to the external air or your hand etc. Not too much difference in the smaller lights but it always helps a bit I believe and better for the LED (s). Better than just having empty space in my opinion.
Rather than a sandwich, a roll might be better with a solid copper core surrounded by a tight fitting alu tube.
Here’s one with copper & brass.
Or aluminium & brass
Wow, that second flashlight is awesome,man!I really like the cuboid setup!The first one is a looker too!
You ’ve given me a lot of ideas,unfortunately though I don’t have a lathe (yet) so I’m gonna try to find something that will go press fitted in my flashlight (you are correct it’s an s2+).Do you happen to have any EU suppliers of metal bars like the ones you used?
I don’t have a lathe either, all my stuff is made by hand so there is always hope 
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I get a lot of material from *bay, usually small cuttings of bar stock and tube. Solid bars are often very close to their stated dimensions, the tubes can differ somewhat but best to look for the seamless tubes and with a bit of luck you will get a close fit. I solder pieces together or use JB Weld where applicable.
Lots of filing & sanding is often needed.
Nice!I’ll go look looking for some tubes and JB Weld.With some luck and a lot of elbow grease i’ll get close to what I’m looking for.Thank you!
I’ve done this with copper plumbing pipe and/or solid core copper wire from scraps of house wiring, with solder to hold it together and fill gaps.