[BLF special edition light] new Sofirn AAA twisty high CRI Yuji 5mm LED (CCT 3200K or 5600K) for 6.50 USD

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Di_Joker
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Barry0892 wrote:
Omega_17 wrote:
We need a similar BLF edition of this fantastic AA light!

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Sofirn-New-SP10-V2-0-LED-Flashlight-AA-14500-Flashlight-EDC-Pocket-Light-Cree-XPG2-550lm/2933049_32841154512.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.3.17944773ZjzAJu

Actually sofirn change SP10 V2 to SP10S by using LH351D 5000K 90CRI, and same UI.

This is great news, need more flashlight models with emitters LH351D !!! I think many will be interested in the LH351D 4000K 90CRI and maybe even 3000K. Good to have a choice. I use TIR – optics in my Sofirn SP10b, maybe a Sofirn will also sell such an option?

Sorry for my poor english.

Cosmodragoon
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I’m so sad. I have a few of the original black ones in 3200K and love them. This is the perfect little light for so many things! So I ordered a bunch of the blue and red ones. They’ve been stuck in transit somewhere in China since February. It looks like I’ll be getting a refund but I was really hoping to get the lights. Did I miss out?

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@Barry or anyone from Sofirn

Is there any chance that we will get more 3200K C01 some day ?

I understand Sofirn doesn't have any 5mm Yuji 3200K leds left and that even Yuji shop is out of stock on these ones but maybe it's possible to have a C01.v2 with an other led like the Yuji smd version ?

I already have a C01S but don't like it as much.

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Finally getting around to posting some pics and thoughts...embarassed

Lovely little retro lights. Well made, high CRI and with nice tint.

I really like the 3200K warm white C01, especially at night when my eyes are adjusted to warm white indoor lighting. The tint is nicer than a warm white high CRI SST-20 (HB4 bin) and significantly nicer than a warm white 90CRI XP-G2 (unknown bin, inside my DQG Tiny AA II). Not sure how the tint compares to a warm white Nichia as I currently don't have a light with such a LED at hand.

The tint of the 5600K C01 is very similar to a 219BT-V1 sw57 R9050 (the sw57 seems just a touch more pleasant to my eyes).

I think the C01 has a certain nostalgic charm to it Love .

Cosmodragoon
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Noir wrote:

I really like the 3200K warm white C01, especially at night when my eyes are adjusted to warm white indoor lighting. The tint is nicer than a warm white high CRI SST-20 (HB4 bin) and significantly nicer than a warm white 90CRI XP-G2 (unknown bin, inside my DQG Tiny AA II). Not sure how the tint compares to a warm white Nichia as I currently don’t have a light with such a LED at hand.


The tint of the 5600K C01 is very similar to a 219BT-V1 sw57 R9050 (the sw57 seems just a touch more pleasant to my eyes).


I think the C01 has a certain nostalgic charm to it Love .


I completely agree about the nostalgic charm. The look of the open metallic cone and the wonderful color of the 3200K reminds me of certain incandescent lights I remember from the 1970s and 80s. Meanwhile, the smooth turning of the head reminds me of analog control knobs from the same time period. It might seem silly to get this excited about a ~$10 Chinese flashlight, but the little C01 brings me a lot of happiness. I’m sad that I didn’t get more of them.


I wish I had a warmer Nichia for comparison. The warmest I’ve got is a Massdrop Brass AAA Pocket Flashlight with 219B. It doesn’t list a color temperature but I think someone here tested it around 4200-4300K. It’s very pretty but at night, I think I prefer the color of the Yuji at 3200K.

blind-eye
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Kame Sennin wrote:

@Barry or anyone from Sofirn


Is there any chance that we will get more 3200K C01 some day ?


I understand Sofirn doesn’t have any 5mm Yuji 3200K leds left and that even Yuji shop is out of stock on these ones but maybe it’s possible to have a C01.v2 with an other led like the Yuji smd version ?


I already have a C01S but don’t like it as much.


I’m not holding my breath but I would love to see Sofirn make more of these! Especially the 3200k variant.
Mike89
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How does this light stack up against iTP A3 EOS?

thisnameisvalid
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Mike89 wrote:
How does this light stack up against iTP A3 EOS?

Just making sure, but are you referring to the original C01 or C01*S*?

If it’s the C01 they are completely different lights; this is very low output, long runtime, ultra high CRI, and has magnet / trit slots.

If it’s the C01S (There’s a different thread for that specific light) it’s somewhat comparable. They are both high output twisties, but the olight is very cool white and the C01S is 4000k (warm neutral) and very high CRI. The olight has more modes, the C01S has magnet & trit slots. The C01S is probably throwier due to the very narrow optic Vs floodier reflector of the Olight. Battery life will be very similar on high.

I’d choose the C01S unless you value a true moonlight mode.

Current rotation lights: EDC; FW3A (XP-L Hi 5D) | Headlamp; H03 (NW) | Thrower; Emisar D1 (5D) | Keychain; Sofirn C01 (5600k)

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Mike89 wrote:
How does this light stack up against iTP A3 EOS?

It is much dimmer because only 7 lumen and very floody.
But the C01S version with SST-20 led and TIR optic is much more comparable to the ITP A3. Mainly it has a more modern led with a nice high CRI tint. But the difference is not night and day.
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Yeah I was talking about the C01S. Still have a couple of A3 EOS’s. Was just curious about the C01S, if it was as bright cause I had never seen an AAA light that looked as good in the dark as the A3 EOS does. If one did, I would grab it in a second as brighter is always better for my funky old eyes. I only carry an AAA light in my pocket. When I need it in the dark, the brighter it will light what I want to look at, the better I like it.

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You may want to pick up a C01S then, it makes a seriously bright hotspot.
And a tip for everyone who likez a bright AAA light: the C01S makes almost 100 lumen on a high CRI SST-20, if you swap the led for a low CRI cool SST-20, I bet you are at 150 lumen.

(the C01S is uncertain with a 10440 btw, a crappy one seems to work, a high drain one kills the driver)

Mike89
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I think I just went ape shit. I ordered 4 AAA lights.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00143JZ08/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLRK7Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PM4MTSJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R560WC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...

I’ve had two ITP A3 EOS lights for well over 5 years. I guess I just had to introduce some new lights into the mix after all these years to see if any of them give her a go for her money and see what their dark personalities turn out to be.

Mike89
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Got them all and gave them a short ride in the dark. Experiences for each one compared to ITP A3 EOS.

I3E EOS: Smallest of the 4. Even smaller than the A3. Twisty. One mode, no bullshit. Brighter than the A3, about the same spill.

StreamLight Microstream AAA version. Button, one mode. Button is terrible, I have to use two hands one finger on top of the other to turn it on. Turns on ok with boot removed. Dimmest of the 4, a tiny bit less light than A3 but with not as much spill. I’m sending this one back to Amazon for a replacement . Just for the hell of it, tried a 10440 on this and it wouldn’t even turn on. I wish I had waited about 15 minutes longer before I made my decision to send this back, I would have just sent it back for a refund instead. I’m not impressed with this light. I have this feeling I’m going to end up sending the replacement back too.

Sofirn C01S. Twisty, two modes, first mode brightest. Definitely brighter than A3 but not as much spill. Beam color is really on the yellow side compared to the others.

I3T EOS. Beats up the rest but costs the most. Button, two modes, first one the dimmest. Puts out the most light and also has the most spill.

All tests done with AAA eneloop batteries.

If I had to rate these, I would actually choose the I3E EOS in 1st place. Size being the determining factor (smallest size) along with simplicity, and this light packs a punch in light output. Was actually the 2nd brightest of the 4. The I3T EOS is a close 2nd place, definitely puts out the most light of any AAA flashlight I’ve used to date. Sofirn C01S comes in 3rd place. Was a bit disappointed in this light, I don’t regret buying it but I was expecting more from Sofirn. Last place goes to Streamlight Microstream. Nothing really comes to mind on what I liked about it. The 1st and 2nd place lights make my eyebrows go up when I turn them on. The last two, my eyebrows didn’t do anything. The eyebrows never lie.

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Thanks for the comparison. I’d say a big part of the appeal of the C01S is to those of us who put a high priority on CRI.

I’d love if Olight updated the I3e with an SST-20 or other high CRI emitter, but I think the emitter they currently use has a different footprint, and a single combined driver+LED board, so they’d have to update the PCB, too.

BlueSwordM
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Yep.

CRI+throw is better than lumens.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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iamlucky13 wrote:
Thanks for the comparison. I’d say a big part of the appeal of the C01S is to those of us who put a high priority on CRI.

I’d love if Olight updated the I3e with an SST-20 or other high CRI emitter, but I think the emitter they currently use has a different footprint, and a single combined driver+LED board, so they’d have to update the PCB, too.

Just use a high CRI Luxeon TX.

Cosmodragoon
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Mike89 wrote:
Got them all and gave them a short ride in the dark. Experiences for each one compared to ITP A3 EOS.

I3E EOS: Smallest of the 4. Even smaller than the A3. Twisty. One mode, no bullshit. Brighter than the A3, about the same spill.

StreamLight Microstream AAA version. Button, one mode. Button is terrible, I have to use two hands one finger on top of the other to turn it on. Turns on ok with boot removed. Dimmest of the 4, a tiny bit less light than A3 but with not as much spill. I’m sending this one back to Amazon for a replacement . Just for the hell of it, tried a 10440 on this and it wouldn’t even turn on. I wish I had waited about 15 minutes longer before I made my decision to send this back, I would have just sent it back for a refund instead. I’m not impressed with this light. I have this feeling I’m going to end up sending the replacement back too.

Sofirn C01S. Twisty, two modes, first mode brightest. Definitely brighter than A3 but not as much spill. Beam color is really on the yellow side compared to the others.

I3T EOS. Beats up the rest but costs the most. Button, two modes, first one the dimmest. Puts out the most light and also has the most spill.

All tests done with AAA eneloop batteries.

If I had to rate these, I would actually choose the I3E EOS in 1st place. Size being the determining factor (smallest size) along with simplicity, and this light packs a punch in light output. Was actually the 2nd brightest of the 4. The I3T EOS is a close 2nd place, definitely puts out the most light of any AAA flashlight I’ve used to date. Sofirn C01S comes in 3rd place. Was a bit disappointed in this light, I don’t regret buying it but I was expecting more from Sofirn. Last place goes to Streamlight Microstream. Nothing really comes to mind on what I liked about it. The 1st and 2nd place lights make my eyebrows go up when I turn them on. The last two, my eyebrows didn’t do anything. The eyebrows never lie.

I agree regarding the Streamlight. I tried it and hated it. I returned mine within a week.

I haven’t tried the I3T EOS.

I like the C01S but greatly prefer it in Low-High. The color might seem a little yellow but take some time to see if you get used to it. I recently did some similar side-by-side testing on night walks including both suburban and wooded areas. The warmer tint and high CRI of the C01S ended up being awesome. I also noticed that in high mode, the C01S reaches out well in the woods. I don’t know if tint is the relevant factor but it seemed to give me clearer illumination at distance.

The C01S low mode was nicely usable and that matters to me. One factor I didn’t see mentioned in the comparison here is battery life. You never know when you’ll need a little extra!

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defloyd77 wrote:
iamlucky13 wrote:
Thanks for the comparison. I’d say a big part of the appeal of the C01S is to those of us who put a high priority on CRI.

I’d love if Olight updated the I3e with an SST-20 or other high CRI emitter, but I think the emitter they currently use has a different footprint, and a single combined driver+LED board, so they’d have to update the PCB, too.

Just use a high CRI Luxeon TX.

That’s a thought. I didn’t realize a high CRI version of that emitter is readily available, but I also haven’t looked yet.

From the datasheet, it appears only in 2700K, 3000K, and 5700K?

I guess 5700K would work for the inspection purposes I’d like a compact, single mode light for.

* Edit – I’m not seeing them available from the usual places: Mountain, LED Supply, Kaidomain, Arrow.
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The original Microstream (~20 yrs ago) was a nice light, but there were a lot of complaints about unwanted activation, so Streamlight changed to this tail switch, which many believe went too far in the other direction. Still, it’s a nice little light.

Given that the development and startup costs have been depreciated completely many years ago, I wonder what Streamlight’s profit margin is on this light currently.

You don't really need a parachute to skydive. But you DO need one if you want to skydive twice!

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I started an interest thread for a host version of the C01, in which you can solder in your own 5mm led.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68251

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Mike89 wrote:
I3E EOS: Smallest of the 4. Even smaller than the A3. Twisty. One mode, no bullshit. Brighter than the A3, about the same spill.
[…]
I3T EOS. Beats up the rest but costs the most. Button, two modes, first one the dimmest. Puts out the most light and also has the most spill.

Olight excels in the small flashlight space. The i3E EOS can often be had quite cheaply. Olight-Store ran a little deal for a short while where the light was free and you pay for shipping… so cost was like $5. While I applaud the Sofirn for its simplicity and tint, the Olight feels more solid. Plus, I just have a peeve about lights without a glass or TIR lens. My early run Sofirn C01 serves purely as a backup light. Kind of nutty to think the installed tritium vial plus magnet (image) doubled the overall cost of the light.

One light you didn’t include — the Jetbeam U. It’s a twisty AAA light with 3 modes. Lowest isn’t what I’d call a moonlight mode, but it’s OK. Very nice casing design and anodizing. Here’s a photo — it’s #3 from the left.

My Fenix L0D is still going strong. The CW tint is just not all that appealing to me. I may try to replace the emitter at some point if I can ever figure out what would be suitable.

thisnameisvalid
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What over 7 months on a keychain looks like Big Smile

Current rotation lights: EDC; FW3A (XP-L Hi 5D) | Headlamp; H03 (NW) | Thrower; Emisar D1 (5D) | Keychain; Sofirn C01 (5600k)

Cosmodragoon
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thisnameisvalid wrote:
What over 7 months on a keychain looks like Big Smile

This is my general complaint with aluminum. You can get a nice surface treatment on there. It will look pretty when new. The underlying metal will still be aluminum. Let it bounce around a hot pocket with coins, keys, etc. and this is what usually happens. Some people don’t mind but it bugs me. So I try to take steps to avoid the tumbler action with my aluminum lights.

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Cosmodragoon wrote:
thisnameisvalid wrote:
What over 7 months on a keychain looks like Big Smile

This is my general complaint with aluminum. You can get a nice surface treatment on there. It will look pretty when new. The underlying metal will still be aluminum. Let it bounce around a hot pocket with coins, keys, etc. and this is what usually happens. Some people don’t mind but it bugs me. So I try to take steps to avoid the tumbler action with my aluminum lights.

You have to get over it. Life’s too short to be bugged by stuff like this. Buy a spare that you don’t let ride in your pocket next to hard metal objects. You can also find or make yourself a sleeve to stick the flashlight in, if anodizing wear is a major pet peeve.

I have an i1R EOS keychain flashlight by Olight that’s terrific. It looked so pristine on my key chain, but now the fluted grip section has major anodizing loss. But, I’m OK with it. It’s inevitable for keychain duty. However, my Jetbeam U still looks almost like new because I clip it to the outer corner of my front pants pocket. It doesn’t touch any metal. Despite the handling care, it did suffer a scrape on the front, so there’s some tiny anno loss on the front edge. But again… not a big deal. I have a pristine one sitting in a drawer at home. Wink

Cosmodragoon
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xevious wrote:
You have to get over it. Life’s too short to be bugged by stuff like this. Buy a spare that you don’t let ride in your pocket next to hard metal objects. You can also find or make yourself a sleeve to stick the flashlight in, if anodizing wear is a major pet peeve.

I have an i1R EOS keychain flashlight by Olight that’s terrific. It looked so pristine on my key chain, but now the fluted grip section has major anodizing loss. But, I’m OK with it. It’s inevitable for keychain duty. However, my Jetbeam U still looks almost like new because I clip it to the outer corner of my front pants pocket. It doesn’t touch any metal. Despite the handling care, it did suffer a scrape on the front, so there’s some tiny anno loss on the front edge. But again… not a big deal. I have a pristine one sitting in a drawer at home. Wink

I streamlined my pocket carry a while back and that helped a lot. I cut down on carrying coins. I have fewer keys and more optimal ring spacing. My lighter and multitool moved to a pocket organizer so they no longer collide. My L10 also has better anodization than the last aluminum light I carried.

Really, I’d like to do some more exploration with other metals. Brass gets dinged up but it’s just more brass underneath. Of course, brass is heavy. (It can also contain a small amount of lead, which isn’t ideal.) I’ve had good results with stainless steel but I don’t see it used very often. My wife’s enormous key ring has a stainless AAA flashlight from Convoy that still looks great after years of tumbling in the death trap she calls a purse. I’ve been meaning to try something in titanium but I haven’t gotten around to it.

BTW, I was pretty good at Xevious back in the 80s.

Mike89
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Personally I like the beat up look. Adds character.

Macka17
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Copper i3T. Bigger but a great light.
Astrolux AO1 in Cree and Nichia.
Probably MY favourite.
LumintopAAA Still trying to make my mind up about that one.
VERY thin aluminium casing.
BLF/Singfire SF 348
Neither one thing nor the other?.
Plus several others.

When my BLF/Sofurn 5600 special arrives (30 days).
I’ll see if it any better. or worse than current ones.

The AO1 is the one it got to beat.

Lonelydad
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Mike89 wrote:
Personally I like the beat up look. Adds character.

As long as it works, I don’t really care what it looks like.

You don't really need a parachute to skydive. But you DO need one if you want to skydive twice!

buck91
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Cosmodragoon wrote:
thisnameisvalid wrote:
What over 7 months on a keychain looks like Big Smile

This is my general complaint with aluminum. You can get a nice surface treatment on there. It will look pretty when new. The underlying metal will still be aluminum. Let it bounce around a hot pocket with coins, keys, etc. and this is what usually happens. Some people don’t mind but it bugs me. So I try to take steps to avoid the tumbler action with my aluminum lights.

I don’t mind aluminum. Its lighter than stainless steel. Conducts heat well if your driving a higher output LED. This is why I prefer natural/olive/etc colored ano, and strongly prefer HA/type3. Carried a Fenix L0D for many years with the olive finish, and while you could tell it was worn the wear didn’t JUMP out at you. Looked very nice.

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Lonelydad wrote:
Mike89 wrote:
Personally I like the beat up look. Adds character.

As long as it works, I don’t really care what it looks like.

Ah, but most ladies do. They think: now there’s a guy who takes not good care of his tools.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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