[FreemeGB] Haikelite MT09R 3x XHP70.2 25,000lm & 3x XHP35 Hi 6500LM Flashlight Group Buy -【 SHIPPED! 】

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ZozzV6
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Did you used one fet or two?
And next to the fet there is a place for capacitor. Does it good to be missing from there?

ZozzV6
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Texas_Ace wrote:
The good news is that it is an easy fix, you can simply install a new FET for about $1 and it will be better then new.

For me yes. But for a fanatic who can’t solder or repair it is a big pain. Tomorrow I will replace it. With an infineon what came from lexel.
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Texas_Ace wrote:
The good news is that it is an easy fix, you can simply install a new FET for about $1 and it will be better then new.

Is that something that can be fixed with a solder iron or does it have to be put in an oven?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

Texas_Ace
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
The good news is that it is an easy fix, you can simply install a new FET for about $1 and it will be better then new.
For me yes. But for a fanatic who can’t solder or repair it is a big pain. Tomorrow I will replace it. With an infineon what came from lexel.

True but if they are bypassing the springs then I guess it is safe to assume they can solder Wink

That said naturally I wish they had contacted me for a replacement FET suggestion instead of just using something they found. Last I heard I sent them a link to Arrow that had free international shipping on the SIR800 and assumed they would use that.

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JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
The good news is that it is an easy fix, you can simply install a new FET for about $1 and it will be better then new.
Is that something that can be fixed with a solder iron or does it have to be put in an oven?

Technically you can do it with a soldering iron although a hot air gun is far far easier. Just a few seconds with a hot air gun to swap the FET.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
The good news is that it is an easy fix, you can simply install a new FET for about $1 and it will be better then new.
Is that something that can be fixed with a solder iron or does it have to be put in an oven?

Technically you can do it with a soldering iron although a hot air gun is far far easier. Just a few seconds with a hot air gun to swap the FET.


Where do you apply the hot air?
Not from other side of pcb I assume as the heat doesn’t go through.
Not directly on top of the FET as that can damage it I assume.
So around the edges of the FET?
Does the heat penetrate fully underneath it?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

ZozzV6
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Thit is also for TA:
Does the driver has enough cooling for the fet? At work on one line we make seat heater circuits for cars. And we had problems with fets at testing them for over current protection. They had 76A continuous current rating at same package we use in flashlights but the datasheet said 6 cm2 pcb area with a specific copper layer thickness is need for cooling. The pcb designed with 1 cm2 cooling area. So we burnt a lot fet at 32A current in the testers. Do you count fet cooling specs in when design a driver?

Texas_Ace
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JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
The good news is that it is an easy fix, you can simply install a new FET for about $1 and it will be better then new.
Is that something that can be fixed with a solder iron or does it have to be put in an oven?

Technically you can do it with a soldering iron although a hot air gun is far far easier. Just a few seconds with a hot air gun to swap the FET.


Where do you apply the hot air?
Not from other side of pcb I assume as the heat doesn’t go through.
Not directly on top of the FET as that can damage it I assume.
So around the edges of the FET?
Does the heat penetrate fully underneath it?

You can do it from the bottom but you have to be careful to not burn the pcb with the air temp too high, it takes a lot longer this way. I generally only do this for small components that could be blown off the pcb.

For the FET you just set the temp correctly and then aim it directly over the FET, as long as you are using a hot air gun with the proper temperature the FET will be just fine. You can use a piece of normal solder under the FET but solder paste is much easier and makes it a very simple process.

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ZozzV6 wrote:
Thit is also for TA: Does the driver has enough cooling for the fet? At work on one line we make seat heater circuits for cars. And we had problems with fets at testing them for over current protection. They had 76A continuous current rating at same package we use in flashlights but the datasheet said 6 cm2 pcb area with a specific copper layer thickness is need for cooling. The pcb designed with 1 cm2 cooling area. So we burnt a lot fet at 32A current in the testers. Do you count fet cooling specs in when design a driver?

I didn’t do a lot of technical calculations for the FET cooling but it has a fairly large copper pad for cooling and the wires also act as heat sinkes as well. I did check the FET temperature under load and it stayed well within spec even under extreme conditions.

IIRC the highest temps I saw on the FET itself was around 100c or a bit more under max load and it is rated for 150c. So the temps should not be an issue with the real SIR800DP FET like I used.

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ZozzV6 wrote:
This is also for TA:
Does the driver has enough cooling for the fet?

Do you count fet cooling specs in when design a driver?


Interesting. I bet TA just uses trial and error. Big Smile His hand built units held up to torture testing so it might be safe assume that is not the cause of the failure.

It’s possible the FET that they used has too much internal resistance and that is what caused it to overheat. Or maybe the factory drivers used a thinner copper layer on the pcb which reduced it’s heat transfer ability.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

Texas_Ace
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JasonWW wrote:
ZozzV6 wrote:
This is also for TA:
Does the driver has enough cooling for the fet?

Do you count fet cooling specs in when design a driver?


Interesting. I bet TA just uses trial and error. Big Smile His hand built units held up to torture testing so it might be safe assume that is not the cause of the failure.

It’s possible the FET that they used has too much internal resistance and that is what caused it to overheat. Or maybe the factory drivers used a thinner copper layer on the pcb which reduced it’s heat transfer ability.

I did some basic calculations but without a major change in design that would be basically impossible it was not possible to significantly increase the amount of copper cooling for the FET so I did indeed focus more on testing then calculations.

A thinner copper layer is possible but I used a 1oz for my test drivers and I doubt they went thinner then this.

A cheaper FET like the one lexel posted is the most likely cause. It was only rated for like 30A so it would make sense it would blow under bypassed springs conditions and that should be around 30A of current.

JasonWW
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For those in the US, it looks like Richard at MTN Electronics carries the better FET for $1.35. Is this the right one?

Vishay SIR800DP N-Channel MOSFET – PowerPAK SO-8

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

Texas_Ace
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Yep, that one will work fine.

There are some nicer once that Lexel found recently that I did not know about when I first built these drivers as well for those that order from mouser / Arrow.

JasonWW
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I just keep sitting on my coupon codes for these lights until I know they are good from the factory. What a rollercoaster ride. Lol

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

ZozzV6
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I have 10 of those. If I use two fet it will spread the load and iz is more safe think.
Removed the fet with regular soldering iron heated the top and the package turned in to dust. With a lottle help of pliers removed the top and insoldered the big pad.the pcb survived without any damage.

My good fets and hot air station are at work so I will put on the good tomorrow.

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The only problem with using 2 FET’s is that the resistors are setup for a single FET and using 2 will cause them to switch more slowly and increase the losses (aka, they will get hotter) and cause the ramp to change some in the low modes.

You can try it and see what happens though but a single SIR800DP should work fine. That is how the lights I built are setup.

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Ok then I will use one.
Thank you for all your help!

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interested …any reviews

Gorb507

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I’m at work now. Covered the surrounding area of fet with kapton tape. Added solder paste. And reflowed the fet.

Now it is blasting again Big Smile Now I’m at day shift so when I get hom remeasure output and finally do an intensity measurement.

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I hope swapping the FET is all it takes to make it bulletproof.

So you got about 18k lumen stock. Was that the NW or CW version?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

ZozzV6
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JasonWW wrote:
I hope swapping the FET is all it takes to make it bulletproof.

So you got about 18k lumen stock. Was that the NW or CW version?


18270 lumens NW version.
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I’m glad there’s a happy end to this story. Big Smile

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ZozzV6 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
I hope swapping the FET is all it takes to make it bulletproof.

So you got about 18k lumen stock. Was that the NW or CW version?


18270 lumens NW version.

Hmmm, I guess that means the CW that I prefer is what, 3k lumen less?

Still, 15k lumen is nothing to sneeze at.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

ZozzV6
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JasonWW wrote:

Hmmm, I guess that means the CW that I prefer is what, 3k lumen less?

Still, 15k lumen is nothing to sneeze at.


No. CW is usually has higher lumens output.
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Glad it is an easy fix. Has anyone replied you on the spare FET pad question?

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ZozzV6 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

Hmmm, I guess that means the CW that I prefer is what, 3k lumen less?

Still, 15k lumen is nothing to sneeze at.


No. CW is usually has higher lumens output.

Really? I vaguely remember the lower forward voltage on the NW giving it a higher output.

I’ll have to check TA’s driver thread. Wait, I’m not sure what exact CW emitter the factory is using. I may have to wait for a comparison.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

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freeme wrote:

Glad it is an easy fix. Has anyone replied you on the spare FET pad question?


Yes! TA answered it. It is designed for one fet only. Two fet will switching slower.
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ZozzV6 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

Hmmm, I guess that means the CW that I prefer is what, 3k lumen less?

Still, 15k lumen is nothing to sneeze at.


No. CW is usually has higher lumens output.

If you use the same bin then the output should be roughly the same between tines minus the lux meter bias towards CW tints.

In the case of the MT09R, I am not sure what CW LED’s they are using now but in the last batch the CW LED’s were a lower bin then the NW and were a fair amount lower output. Around 20% lower IIRC (so around 3 bins lower).

It is possible that they upgraded to P2 bin CW LED’s like I suggested for this batch though.

Oh, I also heard that they will be discontinuing the MT03 after this batch is sold out. I really like that light, the best flooder I own. Tempted to get another one if I could justify it.

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^^^ That’s odd. Seems to me that the MT03 is a winner, and a Haikelite flagship as well…

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hIKARInoob wrote:
^^^ That’s odd. Seems to me that the MT03 is a winner, and a Haikelite flagship as well…

My guess is they are consolidating the production into just the MT09R as it seems more popular. I don’t think the sales of the MT03 are good enough since the MT09R came out to justify selling both.

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