The BLF GT70 "Giggle Monster" is coming! 7,500lumens, 1,500m throw! Group buy Closed!

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RobertB
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JasonWW wrote:
RobertB wrote:
Lumintop should make just a complete head available so we can use our existing carriers and tubes. That would help keep the cost down a bit.
I was thinking of just the lower head, the light engine. Then your not paying for the expensive reflector, etc… and the shipping box would be much smaller and lighter.

Except 90% of the people won’t want to try and open up the light. I would just like a swapable head and not have to get out strap wrenches and struggle with it. Was hoping for the same thing with the BLF Lantern. Multiple battery tubes and carriers are redundant

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ZozzV6 wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
I’m just wondering what is the purpose of getting a separate lens?

For spare if you accidentally break it.

I wonder more on a reflector.

I actually meant to say reflector but typed lens. I see TA’s answer already.

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RobertB wrote:

Except 90% of the people won’t want to try and open up the light. I would just like a swapable head and not have to get out strap wrenches and struggle with it. Was hoping for the same thing with the BLF Lantern. Multiple battery tubes and carriers are redundant


I don’t agree. It all depends on how you advertise it. If you advertise it as a light with an interchangeable light engine then most people will want to be able to change it out for a different light engine.
As I said it was partly designed for this reason.
And if I’m honest we (as GT team) and mostly myself let that feature slip away. If we had communicated that feature to lumintop from the beginning we might already have a xhp70.2 light engine. But that’s the problem with these projects it’s not that easy.

I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?

Glenn7
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1x GT70 NW
1x conversion kit NW
Maybe spare reflector
1x spare lens
8× 30Q cells

netgear68
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1x GT70 NW
Maybe spare reflector
1x spare lens
8× 30Q cells

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thijsco19 wrote:

I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?

About the same. The bezel has lots of friction, but the light engine is just “tight”. Once you break the initial tension, it just spins off. You don’t have to install it super tight, either.

When you seperate the upper and lower head it makes the bezel much easier. I can take my light apart completely by hand.

Everyone buying a kit will still have to take the light apart to do the emitter swap so I don’t understand not selling a complete light engine.

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

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Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

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thijsco19 wrote:
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?

Yes, they are silly both silly tight, better then being glued but still, just silly tight.

this is the only reason I didn’t push a new light engine, I already know of quite a few people that can’t open their lights at all and having opened a few myself, it ain’t easy and almost impossible in some cases. Not something I like doing.

I modded a few of these last week with the mcpcb’s I had and I offered everyone that sent the lights in the chance to save some money by opening the lights themselves. All of them paid me to open it.

I am going to need to get a better strap wrench if that keeps up.

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I think a light engine replacement would be nice, depending on the price. Include a nice little plastic case like for a camera lens to keep the one(s) not in use protected and clean.
Once you get the light apart once, theres no need to tighten it up as much as it is from factory

RobertB
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Texas_Ace wrote:
thijsco19 wrote:
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?

Yes, they are silly both silly tight, better then being glued but still, just silly tight.

this is the only reason I didn’t push a new light engine, I already know of quite a few people that can’t open their lights at all and having opened a few myself, it ain’t easy and almost impossible in some cases. Not something I like doing.

I modded a few of these last week with the mcpcb’s I had and I offered everyone that sent the lights in the chance to save some money by opening the lights themselves. All of them paid me to open it.

I am going to need to get a better strap wrench if that keeps up.

Which is exactly why having an entire swapable head would be great. ie: a GT70 minus the battery tube and carriers. Personally, I won’t buy it unless just the complete head is available.

JasonWW
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RobertB wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
RobertB wrote:
Lumintop should make just a complete head available so we can use our existing carriers and tubes. That would help keep the cost down a bit.
I was thinking of just the lower head, the light engine. Then your not paying for the expensive reflector, etc… and the shipping box would be much smaller and lighter.

Except 90% of the people won’t want to try and open up the light. I would just like a swapable head and not have to get out strap wrenches and struggle with it. Was hoping for the same thing with the BLF Lantern. Multiple battery tubes and carriers are redundant


What your saying ONLY makes sense if the head was much cheaper than the whole light. But that is not the case.

If a complete head is still 90% of the total price you would only be saving 10%. It makes more sense to have 2 complete lights then you don’t have to swap anything. Maybe you could even sell the tube and carriers.

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

A380
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Filled the form,

-2 or 6 spare reflectors (lets see the final price).
-1 spare lens.
-30Q batteries depending on price.

Question is, could I get this items without ordering a light or conversion kit?

Texas_Ace
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RobertB wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
thijsco19 wrote:
I can’t recall if the light engine was as tight on the reflector housing as the bezel was?

Yes, they are silly both silly tight, better then being glued but still, just silly tight.

this is the only reason I didn’t push a new light engine, I already know of quite a few people that can’t open their lights at all and having opened a few myself, it ain’t easy and almost impossible in some cases. Not something I like doing.

I modded a few of these last week with the mcpcb’s I had and I offered everyone that sent the lights in the chance to save some money by opening the lights themselves. All of them paid me to open it.

I am going to need to get a better strap wrench if that keeps up.

Which is exactly why having an entire swapable head would be great. ie: a GT70 minus the battery tube and carriers. Personally, I won’t buy it unless just the complete head is available.

Yes, we talked about this for a little bit but basically the savings of not having the battery tube and carriers would be so small it would not be worth it.

They would have to either order mis-matched quantities of the heads and battery tubes or be left with a bunch of extra battery tubes they can’t use.

And the buyer would end up with 1 and a half lights while saving less then the cost of shipping. It is inevitable that many would later want to buy another batter tube and carriers as well further complicating matters.

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Yeah, to me a ‘head only’ option is just silly. And personally, I can’t see many people interested in that high priced option. Just get the whole light.

However, a light engine option makes sense for those who can’t solder. Cause either way, conversion kit or ‘light engine option’…….. the light engine has to be taken off.

Just make it crystal clear (as has already been done) that it can/might be difficult to remove the light engine initially. Wink

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Maybe I will do a video on the best and easiest way to take the light apart.

Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch, SMO reflector.

Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware, 2 x 26350 cells, lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Thorfire S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and custom lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, Astrolux S43 and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - Headlight List with prices, specs and features

Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review  - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results

Glenn7
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Yes I would pay more for a complete (finished just screw in) pill/light engine – me and soldering irons don’t mix.

Any thought of offering an Aspheric lens and spacer with the right focus?

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Interested in one Smile

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JasonWW wrote:
Maybe I will do a video on the best and easiest way to take the light apart.
Might be a good idea….. Thumbs Up .. Wink

Maybe I have just been lucky… but so far I have not had much of a problem loosening the light engines on any of mine. Just put those bad boys in a properly padded vice & twist. Wink

The bezels were a bit more difficult…. Facepalm . Big Smile . Thumbs Up

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JasonWW wrote:
Maybe I will do a video on the best and easiest way to take the light apart.

Having opened ~8 of them so far, I have not found such a method, just brute force and luck of the draw.

I had 2 that opened fairly easy (aka, I did it by myself).

The others varied from “I did it by myself but dead lifting felt easier”

To needing 2 Texans straining to get that sucker open, Mere normal men may not of emerged victorious. Silly

Proper strap wrench technique is the only thing I have found that helps. we had 3 guys cranking away on one of these at one point before I found my strap wrench and there is no way in heck it is opening opening up.

Still took 2 of us to get it open with the wrench (1 to man the wrench and the other to hold everything in place to it didn’t slip out of the vice and ruin everything).

It is not impossible but be prepared for a struggle.

I don’t want people spending the money on the conversion kit only to not be able to use it. I would recommend opening your light now before placing the order.

Texas_Ace
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Glenn7 wrote:
Any thought of offering an Aspheric lens and spacer with the right focus?
Innocent
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Glenn7 wrote:
Any thought of offering an Aspheric lens and spacer with the right focus?
Innocent
If that is the case, I may need a complete GT70… Maybe I should start listing stuff on ebay now? lol
dodo
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filled for:
1 BLF GT 70 (NW)
8 batteries

Thanks

Texas_Ace
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Pulsar wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Glenn7 wrote:
Any thought of offering an Aspheric lens and spacer with the right focus?
Innocent
If that is the case, I may need a complete GT70… Maybe I should start listing stuff on ebay now? lol

I would not start listing body parts for sale quite yet, any other projects will be some time in coming.

This one is happening quicker because I am been pursuing it for over a year and have most of the parts ready to go before hand.

atbglenn
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I passed on the first release of the BLF GT, but now I’m really looking forward to the new GT70. That said, as long as the price is under $150 US dollars I’ll buy one.. I have plenty of Samsung 30Q button and flattop cells to accommodate this monster. I didn’t request any other options. Maybe I should have?

Texas_Ace
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atbglenn wrote:
I passed on the first release of the BLF GT, but now I’m really looking forward to the new GT70. That said, as long as the price is under $150 US dollars I’ll buy one.. I have plenty of Samsung 30Q button and flattop cells to accommodate this monster. I didn’t request any other options. Maybe I should have?

The price is listed in the OP, it is $250 at this point but I am sure we will reach at least 100 signups which drops the price down to $240.

The price will go down more with more sign up’s but we can’t know for sure how many will sign up.

teacher
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atbglenn wrote:
I passed on the first release of the BLF GT, but now I’m really looking forward to the new GT70. That said, as long as the price is under $150 US dollars I’ll buy one.. I have plenty of Samsung 30Q button and flattop cells to accommodate this monster. I didn’t request any other options. Maybe I should have?
Sadly my friend…. the wish for a $150.oo price tag seem but a wishful dream…… Wink

Below is from the 2nd post………..

I am told the planned retail Price for the complete light will be $299.99

The group buy pricing will be setup in Tiers depending on how many lights are sold.

  • 1-50 lights = $250
  • 51-100 lights = $240
  • 101-200 lights = $230
  • 201-300 lights = $225
  • 301-400 lights = $220

If we managed to get more then that I could talk to them about further discounts.

Free shipping is included for : USA, CANADA, WEST EUROPE, ASIA
add 20 USD for: Australia, New Zealand, part East Europe (contact Neal to find out about your exact country)
add 40 USD for: Serbia, Ukraine, Uruguay, Crotia, Saudi Arabia, south Africa

The shipping method will be selected by Lumintop to have the best chance of being delivered in a timely fashion.

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is the blf gt xhp70.2 will have texas avenger DTP MCPCB ??

SKV89
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atbglenn wrote:
I passed on the first release of the BLF GT, but now I’m really looking forward to the new GT70. That said, as long as the price is under $150 US dollars I’ll buy one.. I have plenty of Samsung 30Q button and flattop cells to accommodate this monster. I didn’t request any other options. Maybe I should have?

For a light of that size and with all the components inside to allow this thing to run at the targeted specs, Lumintop would be losing money for every light they sell at the price you want. Even at the $240 price, it’s hard to imagine there’s much profit after shipping given the small quantities they are making.

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I would have gladly waited for the this 2nd release. The first release was NW with semi yellow tint. If the new version is CW I would have sprung for 4 of them. Making 4 new versions as opposed to 2 original NW and 2 updated versions. Pricing is not concern. Rather time of wait, potential damage during transit, etc…

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Interested in a cw one. Does it come with two battery carriers or do I have to buy them separately?

teacher
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TA….. a question whenever you have time. No rush…

Is the Neutral White option going to actually be that, as close as possible to Truly “Neutral White”…. without the yellow/orange tint??

Neutral White with little or no tint warm or cool. Thumbs Up
But better a lean to slight cool than yellow…. if it must lean.

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