The BLF GT70 "Giggle Monster" is here! 7,500lumens, 1,500m throw! Group buy Closed!

2810 posts / 0 new
Last post
KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 26 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3769
Location: The Motor City
Lumintop has been very good to deal with… for sure…

Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Lothar
Lothar's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 27 min ago
Joined: 10/26/2011 - 11:22
Posts: 496
Location: Stellenbosch, South Africa
Texas_Ace wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Lothar wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
2: We are already driving the XHP70.2 quite hard as it is, more power will only give minor gains in output and a lot more stress on the LED. So the chances of killing the LED go up a lot. Personally I just leave my springs stock.
My intentions is not really to try and squeeze out more juice, but to make sure they didn’t use that crap white rubbery thermal paste, and that the LED has got enough heatsinking behind it so that it can handle the heat. I modified my BTU Shocker into a SuperShocker over the weekend, and I was surprised at the crap thermal paste, very thin LED shelf and big unutilized gap between the LED shelf and the driver. Filling that with copper or even aluminium will help the LEDs a lot, and I was wondering how the BLF GT70 would compare.

The white thermal paste is really not that bad in my testing. When it comes to OTF lumens, it made virtually no difference. Heck with enough clamping pressure no thermal paste at all was only a few lumens behind.


I think he’s referring to that white RTV silicone looking stuff that some manufacturers use and feels rubbery.

The GT (and I assume the GT70) use a proper thermal paste. It stays soft and never gets hard or rubbery.

Ah, I see. The silicone thermal adheisive is still not horrible IF it is properly clamped down before letting it dry so it is as thin as possible. I have done this in a few hot rods and it works great.

Now in most lights it is used in, they do not clamp the mcpcb down so it is way to thick and yes, then it is positively horrible.


Yeah, that was what I was referring to. I’ve modded a few lights (not that many compared to others, but Skyray V2, 9xT6, Solarforces, BTU, etc) and each time it is easy to desolder and solder the PCB leads when the copper PCB is on those white thermal paste. Replace that with Arctic Silver 5, and you actually struggle to solder leads to the PCB, the heat is just pulled away too fast and I have a 80W 380’C regulated soldering iron. With the fat tip you have to hold it quite some time to warm up the PCB, PCB shelf and wires.

That led me to thinking that while better thermal paste won’t give you more lumens OTF on a cold start, it might give you a higher sustained lumens OTF because the LED wouldn’t start thermal throttling, and it might even prolong LED life? If I can open my GT70, I’ll do a comparative test when I get it Smile

Current Collection: BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)Lumintop: BLF GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini; Solarforce: 2 x L2P (XM-L2 U3 2C @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 2C @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (Cree XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 1A @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF GT4; Sofirn: BLF-LT1;

square74
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 02/06/2014 - 03:13
Posts: 123
Location: Germany

If I´ve to solder wires to a copper MCPCB, I try something like this:

Put the thermalpaste on the ground, put two pieces of metal (heat-resistant) on the ground and than the MCPCB on it.
So the heat isn´t pulled away too fast any longer.

After soldering you can remove the small pieces of metal and press the MCPCB down and rotate it a little bit to evenly sread the thermal paste.

Newlumen
Newlumen's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 05/27/2017 - 00:19
Posts: 2070
Location: United states

Kingjohn wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
I did the ceiling bounce tests on the blf gt lights.. I use my olight sr96 and mt18 as a reference since they are measured by TA tube..

51_F4_F049-3906-4_F3_E-80_F0-9_BDA50_EEEC31

So you measured 2 lights with the tube.
Then you measured both with ceiling-bounce (cb) and set the factor in cb to a value, so that cb shows the same amount of lumens as the tube?

This way you could get reliable results with cb afterwards for all other lights…
(not taking into account, that different reflector characteristics will for sure also have a large effect on the results)

Yes yes., I use a light meter app..

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11338
Location: Houston Texas

Lothar wrote:

I’ve modded a few lights (not that many compared to others, but Skyray V2, 9xT6, Solarforces, BTU, etc) and each time it is easy to desolder and solder the PCB leads when the copper PCB is on those white thermal paste. Replace that with Arctic Silver 5, and you actually struggle to solder leads to the PCB, the heat is just pulled away too fast and I have a 80W 380’C regulated soldering iron. With the fat tip you have to hold it quite some time to warm up the PCB, PCB shelf and wires.

That led me to thinking that while better thermal paste won’t give you more lumens OTF on a cold start, it might give you a higher sustained lumens OTF because the LED wouldn’t start thermal throttling, and it might even prolong LED life? If I can open my GT70, I’ll do a comparative test when I get it Smile


I’ve found my 80W Yihua 995D soldering station can’t unsolder certain mcpcb leads (30mm copper). The 995D would melt the top part of the solder blob then the whole head of the flashlight would get hotter and hotter.

Then I tried my cheap Velleman 50W and it can melt it very easily and quickly without heating up the whole head.

It’s theorized, and it seems plausible, that it’s the somewhat loose fit of the tip onto the heating element that is not allowing good heat transfer. It’s said that the genuine Hakko tips have a tighter fit to the heating element and is one if the reasons they perform so well. I’ll try to test this theory soon.

T18
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 02/14/2016 - 15:29
Posts: 1163

And now you know why I’m T-18 that is my go to solder tips always, Hakko solder tips are the only ones I ever use, the best IMO..

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8499
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

JasonWW wrote:
Lothar wrote:

I’ve modded a few lights (not that many compared to others, but Skyray V2, 9xT6, Solarforces, BTU, etc) and each time it is easy to desolder and solder the PCB leads when the copper PCB is on those white thermal paste. Replace that with Arctic Silver 5, and you actually struggle to solder leads to the PCB, the heat is just pulled away too fast and I have a 80W 380’C regulated soldering iron. With the fat tip you have to hold it quite some time to warm up the PCB, PCB shelf and wires.

That led me to thinking that while better thermal paste won’t give you more lumens OTF on a cold start, it might give you a higher sustained lumens OTF because the LED wouldn’t start thermal throttling, and it might even prolong LED life? If I can open my GT70, I’ll do a comparative test when I get it Smile


I’ve found my 80W Yihua 995D soldering station can’t unsolder certain mcpcb leads (30mm copper). The 995D would melt the top part of the solder blob then the whole head of the flashlight would get hotter and hotter.

Then I tried my cheap Velleman 50W and it can melt it very easily and quickly without heating up the whole head.

It’s theorized, and it seems plausible, that it’s the somewhat loose fit of the tip onto the heating element that is not allowing good heat transfer. It’s said that the genuine Hakko tips have a tighter fit to the heating element and is one if the reasons they perform so well. I’ll try to test this theory soon.

I had that same problem when using the china tips, ever since switching to the hakko tips I can solder mcpcb’s mounted to a light with good thermal paste without an issue as long as the substrate has enough thermal resistance. The clemance mcpcb’s are hard to solder no matter what for example.

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8499
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas
T18 wrote:
And now you know why I’m T-18 that is my go to solder tips always, Hakko solder tips are the only ones I ever use, the best IMO..

I used to think my station was the issue until I also switched to hakko tips, now even my cheap $15 soldering iron works great and I find myself using it a fair amount, I keep a large tip on 1 of them and a small on the other.

T18
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 02/14/2016 - 15:29
Posts: 1163

Same here TA, this has to be one of the first things I discovered after joining, I have a Yihua 936 and started with some sort of knock off tips and then Richard RMM and I were chatting and I explained some issues I was having so actually it was RMM that clued me offhandedly by telling me he never has the problems I was referring to and I asked what tips he preferred and it’s the T18 series and so my thinking is if it’s good for RMM then it will be excellent for me and it’s stayed that way.
I found that the Shape B became my do everything and anything tip, and just as a thought this tip is probably the best for anyone new to soldering, I think you can hardly fail with this tip, worth looking at even if your an old hand at soldering but haven’t tried these. Shape B and examples

Gj
Gj's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2013 - 15:44
Posts: 3037
Location: NY,USA

I can’t get any coupons to work, tried different browsers, copy/paste and manually entering codes. Sad

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8499
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas
Gj wrote:
I can’t get any coupons to work, tried different browsers, copy/paste and manually entering codes. Sad

Very strange, even typing them in manually did not work?

It just takes the price off, you have to look at the total to see the difference.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11338
Location: Houston Texas

About the Hakko tips, where would be a good place to buy one single genuine tip at a decent price?

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8499
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

If you use amazon prime I think they have decent prices on them there. Otherwise ebay is where I got mine.

Gj
Gj's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2013 - 15:44
Posts: 3037
Location: NY,USA
Texas_Ace wrote:
Gj wrote:
I can’t get any coupons to work, tried different browsers, copy/paste and manually entering codes. Sad

Very strange, even typing them in manually did not work?

It just takes the price off, you have to look at the total to see the difference.


Sorry, my mistake. On my device the Determine order button wasn’t onscreen until I scrolled. There wasn’t any Enter button near the coupon field so I hit Enter and it moved to a page with only the checkout option.
Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8499
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas
Gj wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Gj wrote:
I can’t get any coupons to work, tried different browsers, copy/paste and manually entering codes. Sad

Very strange, even typing them in manually did not work?

It just takes the price off, you have to look at the total to see the difference.


Sorry, my mistake. On my device the Determine order button wasn’t onscreen until I scrolled. There wasn’t any Enter button near the coupon field so I hit Enter and it moved to a page with only the checkout option.

No problem, I figured it was something like this.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 26 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3769
Location: The Motor City

JasonWW wrote:
About the Hakko tips, where would be a good place to buy one single genuine tip at a decent price?

The T-18 S3P is the one you want for the big stuff…NOT CHEAP….

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18S3P-Fx-888-Station-5-2mm/dp/B00762AHTE/r...

I got the D24 with the Hakko station and I liked it alot, still do… then I tried the S3,D32 and D16, but then I found this kit… with the S3 D32 D24….https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C0ZUSHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s... Pretty good deal and you get the 2 Conical tips for like free…

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Gj
Gj's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2013 - 15:44
Posts: 3037
Location: NY,USA
Texas_Ace wrote:
Gj wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Gj wrote:
I can’t get any coupons to work, tried different browsers, copy/paste and manually entering codes. Sad

Very strange, even typing them in manually did not work?

It just takes the price off, you have to look at the total to see the difference.


Sorry, my mistake. On my device the Determine order button wasn’t onscreen until I scrolled. There wasn’t any Enter button near the coupon field so I hit Enter and it moved to a page with only the checkout option.

No problem, I figured it was something like this.


Yes, since others ordered successfully I thought I must be doing something wrong but I just couldn’t see what it was. Facepalm
JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11338
Location: Houston Texas

KawiBoy1428 wrote:

p. I got the D24 with the Hakko station and I liked it alot, still do… then I tried the S3,D32 and D16, but then I found this kit… with the S3 D32 D24….KIT. Pretty good deal and you get the 2 Conical tips for like free…

That is a nice deal. I think I’ll get this kit.

Can anyone comment on the diameter of their heating element? I want to make sure my element is not undersized. I got about 3.86mm on mine and 4.21mm on the tip ID. That’s a 0.35mm gap.

I made a video showing the gap.

https://youtu.be/tMSfpTsOF8c

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 26 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3769
Location: The Motor City

JasonWW wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:

p. I got the D24 with the Hakko station and I liked it alot, still do… then I tried the S3,D32 and D16, but then I found this kit… with the S3 D32 D24….KIT. Pretty good deal and you get the 2 Conical tips for like free…

That is a nice deal. I think I’ll get this kit.

Can anyone comment on the diameter of their heating element? I want to make sure my element is not undersized. I got about 3.86mm on mine and 4.21mm on the tip ID. That’s a 0.35mm gap.

I made a video showing the gap.
https://youtu.be/tMSfpTsOF8c


Heating element Diameter is 3.86mm x 21.73mm long and the Barrel/Nut is 44.58

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11338
Location: Houston Texas

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:

p. I got the D24 with the Hakko station and I liked it alot, still do… then I tried the S3,D32 and D16, but then I found this kit… with the S3 D32 D24….KIT. Pretty good deal and you get the 2 Conical tips for like free…

That is a nice deal. I think I’ll get this kit.

Can anyone comment on the diameter of their heating element? I want to make sure my element is not undersized. I got about 3.86mm on mine and 4.21mm on the tip ID. That’s a 0.35mm gap.

I made a video showing the gap.
https://youtu.be/tMSfpTsOF8c


Heating element Diameter is 3.86mm x 21.73mm long and the Barrel/Nut is 44.58

Okay, the heater element diameters seem like a perfect match. So if the Hakko tip has a nice snug fit, it will probably work fine on my iron.

If you want to see another reason why these cheap tips can’t transfer heat, check out this crap. Shocked

https://youtu.be/B54A4xD17XA

yclongthrow
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 20 hours ago
Joined: 08/20/2011 - 14:21
Posts: 368
Location: USA

Any idea of NW conversion ship dates?

Lothar
Lothar's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 27 min ago
Joined: 10/26/2011 - 11:22
Posts: 496
Location: Stellenbosch, South Africa
Texas_Ace wrote:
T18 wrote:
And now you know why I’m T-18 that is my go to solder tips always, Hakko solder tips are the only ones I ever use, the best IMO..

I used to think my station was the issue until I also switched to hakko tips, now even my cheap $15 soldering iron works great and I find myself using it a fair amount, I keep a large tip on 1 of them and a small on the other.


Hmmm, I’ll look into it, but I’ve got this (https://www.magnumproducts.co.za/collections/soldering-stations/products...) together with Magnum points and I always thought it was a quality product. Is it not?

Current Collection: BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)Lumintop: BLF GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini; Solarforce: 2 x L2P (XM-L2 U3 2C @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 2C @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (Cree XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 1A @ 2A)

Coming Soon: Lumintop: BLF GT4; Sofirn: BLF-LT1;

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8499
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas
Lothar wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
T18 wrote:
And now you know why I’m T-18 that is my go to solder tips always, Hakko solder tips are the only ones I ever use, the best IMO..

I used to think my station was the issue until I also switched to hakko tips, now even my cheap $15 soldering iron works great and I find myself using it a fair amount, I keep a large tip on 1 of them and a small on the other.


Hmmm, I’ll look into it, but I’ve got this (https://www.magnumproducts.co.za/collections/soldering-stations/products...) together with Magnum points and I always thought it was a quality product. Is it not?

To be honest I have never heard of that brand so I can’t say one way or the other.

There are naturally other brands that have high quality irons and tips as well, the reason we talk about the hakko tips is that almost all the china knock off soldering stations are based on the hakko setup and thus can use the hakko tips.

atbglenn
atbglenn's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 07/29/2011 - 12:04
Posts: 5767
Location: Long Island, New York

I only use OEM tips with my Hakko 888D. They’re a lot more expensive, but they’re definitely worth it. I do the same with my Weller WESD51.

Boycott Nike

T18
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 02/14/2016 - 15:29
Posts: 1163

I don’t know if it’s been mentioned yet but I was just messaging with a fella at Lumintop about the delay and some other confusion over the GT70 conversion kits, they are so great at Lumintop and great English to boot, and through this conversation I was told that the BLF GT70 is now available in NW, BLF GT70
I was also told that the conversion kit won’t actually be ready to ship until Sept. 25th, so if you’ve paid for the kit and noticed that all you’ve got is your PayPal receipt this is the reason why, I was told they are behind and will send notices via Leo with receipts by that date and start shipping.
So I went to look and confirm the GT70 NW is there and sure enough there she is, so here goes another $220 and hopefully no more glitches, and this will now make a ridiculous total of 6 GT’s and only one GT Mini, I’m trying to cut back ?
I’m sure not holding my breath that a GT70 in NW will ship this week or even the next as it seems Lumintop likes to put things up for sale that aren’t always quit ready for shipping.

This is most likely already old news since I seem to always be the last person to know of such things but I thought just in case I’d mention it again, .. ha ha

Texas_Ace
Texas_Ace's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 07:44
Posts: 8499
Location: Everything is brighter in Texas

Yeah, I kinda saw this coming but thanks for confirming it.

It is much easier for them to ship things in batches due to the convoluted shipping system they are forced to use, so they do tend to put things on sale ahead of time so they can minimize the number of batches.

Last I heard the XHP70.2 LED’s should be arriving this week (need to see if they have show up yet come to think of it) and they will then have them reflowed to the mcpcb’s and finally they will be ready for shipping.

I am hoping it should be ready by the end of the month.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 11338
Location: Houston Texas

Lothar wrote:
[
I’ve got this (https://www.magnumproducts.co.za/collections/soldering-stations/products...) together with Magnum points and I always thought it was a quality product. Is it not?

It may be fine. Take a real close look at your tips, though.
T18
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 6 days ago
Joined: 02/14/2016 - 15:29
Posts: 1163

Yep, sounds right to me TA, after you get used to how they do things and just accept it along with just forgetting you just bought something from them, it’s not so bad until it gets to be 2 months down the road and you forgot so well that you really forgot they have my couple hundred bucks,
Saw KB1428’s pic above and thought it was a pic from my place, I’m getting way to many lights.
Buying odd ball presents this year for Xmas. And this NW is mine and I’m done buying big and going back to my budget lights, I hope if there’s any budget left.

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 1 week ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9596
Location: NE & SW Alabama

Lothar wrote:

Hmmm, I’ll look into it, but I’ve got this (https://www.magnumproducts.co.za/collections/soldering-stations/products...) together with Magnum points and I always thought it was a quality product. Is it not?
Looks pretty good.
How much is this in USDollars??

Soldering Station 2005

R 1,725.00

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 5190
Location: Canada

It’s priced at 25$US+taxes.

So, it’s actually pretty good.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Pages