Small flashlight with red light

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Anthon
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Small flashlight with red light

Is there a small AA or 18650 light with red light and at least three modes with moonlight (for the red light)

I need one but I think I’ll have to build one using a S2+ host or similar

Edited by: Anthon on 07/04/2018 - 10:22
bmengineer
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What’s your budget, and your definition of small? What form factor do you want?
Zebralight makes the H502r . There’s also the Armytek Dobermann in red, and the Jaxman E2L color . You could also order a red build from PFlexPro, but at that point you could save a lot of money building your own.

bushmaster
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Nitecore EC21 might be a possibility. I found one for under $30 a year ago but they seem to be going for $60 on most sites now.

Keep your nose in the wind and your eyes along the skyline.
Del Gue

Anthon
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bmengineer wrote:
What’s your budget, and your definition of small? What form factor do you want? Zebralight makes the H502r . There’s also the Armytek Dobermann in red, and the Jaxman E2L color . You could also order a red build from PFlexPro, but at that point you could save a lot of money building your own.

my budget is very small

I found a deal for a eagletac D25A Ti with xpl HI, I could order a red XP-E2 from kaidomain and swap it

It has moonlight mode and always start in the lowest level, which is fine

Anthon
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just received the D25A Ti, but it’s so nice that it’s a pity to mod it to red light only. I think I’ll swap the emiter to a NW one and keep looking for a cheaper host

2 DOGS
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Maybe a P60 drop-in would work for you.
Just pick up a cheap 501B or whatever.
Red p60)

Itsme
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Not sure what you’re expecting from the red light but the nitecore EA 11 and EC 11 both have a multiple white light mode’s as well as a single red light mode
Lightbringer
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BE CAREFUL trying to swap a red LED where a white one exists now.

The voltage drop for a red LED is around 2V, and about 3V and change for a white one.

If the driver is linear, and has, say, a bunch of 7135s which have to eat the excess voltage and burn it off, you can cook them. 4.2V from the cell minus 3.2V from a white LED means a 1.0V drop. 4.2V from the cell minus 2.2V from a red LED means a 2.0V drop, or the 7135s will have to burn off twice the voltage, thus twice the wattage.

If the driver is cheap and just has a bunch of parallelled resistors as a ballast, then twice the voltage difference means the red LED will be hit with twice the current of the white LED. Ouch.

It sounds like a simple swap, but there are lots of potential problems doing it. Best to either get a drop-in made for a red LED, or just get a light with a red LED designed-in, or make your own drop-in from scratch. Even a simple contact board with a hardwired resistor would be better than cooking a driver or the LED.

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azj
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What about something like this? Doesn’t have 3 modes, but it’s variable brightness..

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-5755-RedBeam-LED-Flashlight/dp/B0000XMUZA

I use red flashlights for my astronomy hobby. They don’t kill your night vision.

I have too many hobbies…

Anthon
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Lightbringer wrote:
BE CAREFUL trying to swap a red LED where a white one exists now.

The voltage drop for a red LED is around 2V, and about 3V and change for a white one.

If the driver is linear, and has, say, a bunch of 7135s which have to eat the excess voltage and burn it off, you can cook them. 4.2V from the cell minus 3.2V from a white LED means a 1.0V drop. 4.2V from the cell minus 2.2V from a red LED means a 2.0V drop, or the 7135s will have to burn off twice the voltage, thus twice the wattage.

If the driver is cheap and just has a bunch of parallelled resistors as a ballast, then twice the voltage difference means the red LED will be hit with twice the current of the white LED. Ouch.

It sounds like a simple swap, but there are lots of potential problems doing it. Best to either get a drop-in made for a red LED, or just get a light with a red LED designed-in, or make your own drop-in from scratch. Even a simple contact board with a hardwired resistor would be better than cooking a driver or the LED.

I didn’t know this, I thought they were 3v leds

So if I put a red led to a normal light like the sofirn SF10, lumintop tool AA, etc it’s bound to fail someday? I think the lumintop uses PWM

puglife2
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why not just tape a red filter on it?

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Not cheap, but you could get an Acebeam UC15. It’s powered by 2× 10440 and is about the size of a small 1× 14500 light.

Comes with a very bright red LED with one mode. Also has a white LED with several modes (max 1000 lumens), and a UV LED. Interface is quite nice.

Anthon
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Firelight2 wrote:
Not cheap, but you could get an Acebeam UC15. It’s powered by 2× 10440 and is about the size of a small 1× 14500 light.

Comes with a very bright red LED with one mode. Also has a white LED with several modes (max 1000 lumens), and a UV LED. Interface is quite nice.

I have one, but the red is too bright

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puglife2 wrote:
why not just tape a red filter on it?

Yup. You could get a red diffuser cap for less than $2.
Lightbringer
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Anthon wrote:
I didn’t know this, I thought they were 3v leds

About 2.0V-2.2V or so. Old-timey red LEDs were about 1.6V.

Anthon wrote:
So if I put a red led to a normal light like the sofirn SF10, lumintop tool AA, etc it’s bound to fail someday? I think the lumintop uses PWM

It probably wouldn’t be too happy.

PWM still would send high-current spikes to it, and accidentally hitting “turbo” might fry it.

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dw911
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Are you sure you need a red light? I remember a thread on here, where in testing a low luminar white light was better at persevering night vision and gave a more usefull light than using a red light or red filter.

Cant find the thread at mo