Emisar D4S review

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shirnask
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For the volume of a cylinder you square the radius not the diameter

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shirnask wrote:
For the volume of a cylinder you square the radius not the diameter

It’s just a matter of what constant do you multiply by later, pi or pi/4. So it’s directly proportional either way. And the constant goes away anyway when we express volume of one cyllinder as a fraction of volume of another.
adsum
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Earpuller wrote:
Does anyone know of a good bike mount that will fit the D4S? also, anyone have a link to the Rampingios V3 hex file?

Had a play with the blinky modes last light and I really love lightening storm mode. Anduril is an outstanding bit of firmware.

I have been using this one

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I actually used an online calculation that allowed plugging in the cylinder’s dimensions and gave a total volume. Wink (Already knew I didn’t miss anything. Silly )

Most of the time? Really? So 4500 mAh is not 50% more than 3000mAh? I have run lights on both the Golisi Gold 26650 and Samsung 30T 21700, I know what each actually gives to a light with high demands, and I’m familiar with how long each cell can run a 23,000 lumen light, so I really don’t see the theoretical point when I have actual results before me… I have the new HOhm Run 3000mAh 21700 arriving today, they claim a constant 39.5A and pulse 48A, so I will use it to feed a hungry emitter and see how it compares to the 30T and Golisi Gold. The CFT-90 can take it, regardless of what the cell can do, so it should prove interesting… (yes, I’ll also test the HOhm Run 21700 in said 23,000 lumen light and see what it’s 17 emitters have to say)

polarweis
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Does anyone tried the flat white 2mm² in the d4s yet? really curious about throw and heat.

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

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I tried the White’s in a D4, didn’t like em under the optic… promptly removed them.

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Tweaked my pretty blue D4S to take an 21700 today. Only getting 5360 lumens so I’m not sure it was worth the hassle. What I did was remove the tail PCB and then shaped a copper disc to fit into the magnet space. Removed the Beryllium spring from the PCB and soldered it to the copper disc. Then went out to the lathe and cut an aluminum spacer to ground the battery tube to the tail cap. Only needed to be 1.34mm thick so it was a lot of hot for the little bit of part. lol

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DB Custom wrote:
To be honest, the V2 designation seems to bring less to the table with the D4S. I see it has the lanyard attachment on the tailcap and hoped it would have Anduril but mine did not. Not sure exactly what the V2 accounts for. You got excellent lights, regardless.

Hank seems to sell V1 and V2 on the same page now, based on whether the customer chooses RampingIOS or Anduril. If I recall correctly, the differences are:

D4S V1:

  • RampingIOS V3
  • FET+3
  • Attiny85
  • Single color aux LEDs

D4S V2:

  • Anduril
  • FET+3+1
  • Attiny1634
  • RGB aux LEDs

The physical design of the light seems the same though, probably because Hank got it right the first time. Aside from the overall size and weight being a bit much for EDC purposes, I think the D4S is probably the best design in Emisar’s product line-up.

DB Custom wrote:
Just have to say, I absolutely LOVE Love the beautiful blue color of my new D4S, it really stands out and is ultra impressive. Big Smile

I still don’t have a blue one… but I probably should.

brightnorm wrote:
My D4S appears to have Anduril, though I’m not sure, being a non-technical Flashaholic. I like the program I have and would not want to change it.

It comes with RampingIOS V3 or Anduril. RampingIOS V3 is basically Anduril with a few things removed or rearranged.

To quickly tell which is which, make sure the light is off and then do a “click, click, hold”. In other words, click 3 times but hold the third click for a second or so. If it goes into a candle-like mode or some sort of strobe, it’s running Anduril.

hank wrote:
Sanity check please —- am I right that there’s no fast strobe setting?

I use fast strobe on other lights all the time in pedestrian crossings —- where I live the law says cars have to stop for pedestrians.

Anduril has a tactical strobe and a motion-freezing strobe, and both have adjustable speed. There’s also a bike flasher with adjustable brightness, which I’d recommend for crosswalk purposes.

RampingIOS has no strobes.

amishbill wrote:
Is the RGB AUX hardware in ALL new D4S but hardcoded to a specific color if you choose Ramping, or is a different LED/Aux board put in if you choose Anduril?

The RampingIOS version has a single-color aux LED board, and the Anduril version has a RGB aux LED board. It’s different hardware — a different driver and a different aux board.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
To be honest, the V2 designation seems to bring less to the table with the D4S. I see it has the lanyard attachment on the tailcap and hoped it would have Anduril but mine did not. Not sure exactly what the V2 accounts for. You got excellent lights, regardless.

Hank seems to sell V1 and V2 on the same page now, based on whether the customer chooses RampingIOS or Anduril. If I recall correctly, the differences are:

D4S V1:

  • RampingIOS V3
  • FET+3
  • Attiny85
  • Single color aux LEDs

D4S V2:

  • Anduril
  • FET+3+1
  • Attiny1634
  • RGB aux LEDs

The physical design of the light seems the same though, probably because Hank got it right the first time. Aside from the overall size and weight being a bit much for EDC purposes, I think the D4S is probably the best design in Emisar’s product line-up.

Thanks for the detailed clarification between v1 and v2.

I have a question:

How does performance and efficiency of “FET+3” differ from “FET+3+1”?

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d_t_a wrote:
How does performance and efficiency of “FET+3” differ from “FET+3+1”?

FET+3+1 has lower and more efficient low modes, and the highest regulated level is a bit higher. It also seems to help the thermal regulation algorithm a bit. It’s a definite upgrade.

However, I doubt it would be a very noticeable difference during daily use.

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DB Custom wrote:
I actually used an online calculation that allowed plugging in the cylinder’s dimensions and gave a total volume. Wink (Already knew I didn’t miss anything. Silly )

So you must have made some mistake. 21700 is 24245 mm³ and 26650 has 34510 mm³.

DB Custom wrote:
Most of the time? Really? So 4500 mAh is not 50% more than 3000mAh?

Yes, really.
I don’t see HKJ test of Basen 26650 but I see one from Mooch:
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/hohm-tech-hohmgrown-32-3a-4307...
About 4050 mAh at 15A discharge.
Compare that to 30T which delivers nearly 3000 mAh at 30A:
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/attachments/e1ef0616-d2a1-4985-ac9d-c4...

And note how Mooch doesn’t provide internal resistance of this 26650 cell but rates it as capable of 23A. Yet it rates 40T as 30A. Just like Molicel P42A.

Compare the 26650 discharge curves above to that of Molicel:
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/attachments/bf3ad2bb-a42a-41d0-8815-11...
26650 sags to 3.15V at 30A while P42A stays above 3.55V.
So…P42A is significantly more powerful and has 5% lower capacity at 15A…

DB Custom
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Basen 26660’s are so last year.

Golisi Gold at 4500mAh perform surprisingly close to the 40T, blowing away Basen snd LiitoKala alike. Actual in-light real world testing.

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I suppose you mean 4300 mAh? Here we can use the HKJ comparator.
8% capacity improvement at 10A and 9% at 20A. And still higher internal resistance (0.02 vs. 0.03). Again, that’s compared to P42A.

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Charts and numbers, real world proves a different thing.

So I tested again the Basen and threw in the comparatively new 21700 Samsung 40T. And got a surprise! On my 17 emitter Ham’r flashlight with 5 drivers one cell testing shows the 30T to deliver 30.3A. The Golisi Gold 26650 can do 27A. By comparison the Basen does 21.9A and the surprise comes from the 40T, it bested the 30T with a huge 32.3A draw!

This is a heavily modified Q8 than I normally run on 4 Samsung 25S 18650’s to the tune of over 23,000 lumens.

Back to the original question, why ask Hank to re-tool an existing design for a new cell versus asking him to design a new light around the relatively new cell? Re-tooling for a quarter inch of space seems unlikely.

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I’m charging the new 39A continuous rated HOhm Run 21700, will see what it can do on this test. It’s rated as 3023 mAh capacity.

Edit: Real world, the fancy HOhm Run only allowed 28.8A.

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DB Custom wrote:
Just have to say, I absolutely LOVE Love the beautiful blue color of my new D4S, it really stands out and is ultra impressive. Big Smile

I missed that they had the blue one, and ordered black…. maybe have to get another one..

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

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DB Custom wrote:
…Golisi Gold at 4500mAh perform surprisingly close to the 40T, blowing away Basen snd LiitoKala alike. Actual in-light real world testing.

Does the Golisi outperform the Shockli 5500 in real world D4S use?

brightnorm

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I was actually never all that impressed with the Shockli 5500 in my lights. For a time the black and gold LiitoKala had me buying more, but the Golisi Gold changed that. The Shockli cells I had were good performers, no doubt, but not game changing or head of the class performance wise.

But, in interest of staying up to date earlier today I ordered a pair of the new Sony (Murata) VTC6A 21700 rated for 4100mAh and 40A continuous. We’ll see…

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OK, thanks

brightnorm

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DB Custom wrote:
Tweaked my pretty blue D4S to take an 21700 today.

sigh Somehow I missed the D4S being released in cyan….and another want added to the list. I love my green V1

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Where do you buy those golisi gold batteries?

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

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ToyKeeper wrote:
d_t_a wrote:
How does performance and efficiency of “FET+3” differ from “FET+3+1”?

FET+3+1 has lower and more efficient low modes, and the highest regulated level is a bit higher. It also seems to help the thermal regulation algorithm a bit. It’s a definite upgrade.

However, I doubt it would be a very noticeable difference during daily use.

I notice a new Anduril hex file revision for the D4Sv2 (2019-08-28) in TK’s repository: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/?C=M;O=D

(probably a dumb question…)
I assume this Anduril firmware only works for the new D4Sv2 (attiny1634) and will not work (or will brick) the D4S v1?

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polarweis wrote:
Where do you buy those golisi gold batteries?

I was ordering something from Banggood, so I threw in some 26650 Golisi Gold. Took a while to arrive. Just Google it. Some say they are best if you are driving your battery over 7 amps a lot, but the Shockli 5500 have longer runtime for use under that. But they are both quality batteries.

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d_t_a wrote:
I notice a new Anduril hex file revision for the D4Sv2 (2019-08-28) in TK’s repository … I assume this Anduril firmware only works for the new D4Sv2 (attiny1634) and will not work (or will brick) the D4S v1?

The D4S v2 firmware won’t even flash onto a D4S v1. They use different control chips, which makes avrdude fail (as it should) with an error.

The new build is basically the same as the 08-05 builds, except that D4S v2 wasn’t public at that time so I didn’t add it until later.

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DB Custom wrote:
I was actually never all that impressed with the Shockli 5500 in my lights. For a time the black and gold LiitoKala had me buying more, but the Golisi Gold changed that. The Shockli cells I had were good performers, no doubt, but not game changing or head of the class performance wise.

But, in interest of staying up to date earlier today I ordered a pair of the new Sony (Murata) VTC6A 21700 rated for 4100mAh and 40A continuous. We’ll see…

Which battery allows you to have more brightness?

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Just to clarify. If I specify a black light with the 1A LED and red Aux LED with Anduril firmware, I will get a light with the same multi color aux LEDs as the D4V2?

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ToyKeeper wrote:
amishbill wrote:
Is the RGB AUX hardware in ALL new D4S but hardcoded to a specific color if you choose Ramping, or is a different LED/Aux board put in if you choose Anduril?

The RampingIOS version has a single-color aux LED board, and the Anduril version has a RGB aux LED board. It’s different hardware — a different driver and a different aux board.


Thanks for the clarification. Now I just have to decide which LEDs. Smile

DIY LT1 battery wrap image. "PDF on Google Drive":https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IHIEOi1NXu868IYNCzIM7D2Ulpxchmww

Fresh Sanyo NCR18650GAs already wrapped "for sale HERE":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69120 if you like.

scosgt
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One more question:
What is the difference between the SST-20 and the XPL-Hi in 6500K in this light?
does one get brighter or have more throw or less heat?
Thanks

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scosgt wrote:
One more question: What is the difference between the SST-20 and the XPL-Hi in 6500K in this light? does one get brighter or have more throw or less heat? Thanks

It’s often mentioned that SST20 LED gets hotter faster than the XPL-Hi LED.

XPL-Hi can also reach a bit higher brightness than SST20 (however, in the case of the D4S, the battery may be a limit on how much 1× 26650 can power 4x LEDs).
(Emisar’s specs for the SST20 is “4200 lumens max” and XPL-Hi is “4300 lumens max”)

Hotspot size comparison for Emisar D4S with XPL-Hi 5000k (left side) and SST20 5000k (right side)

The SST20 has a slightly more focused beam (slightly smaller hotspot) than the XPL-Hi version.
(distance of flashlight to “wall” is around 18 meters / 60 feet)

Beamshot video of D4S with SST20 5000k vs D4S with XPL-Hi 5000k (mainly for hotspot size comparison):

Regarding throw, check if you can notice their differences in throw:
(distance of flashlight to opposite building is around 150 meters ~ 400 feet)

Emisar D4S with XPL-Hi 5000k:

Emisar D4S with SST20 5000k:

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scosgt wrote:
Just to clarify. If I specify a black light with the 1A LED and red Aux LED with Anduril firmware, I will get a light with the same multi color aux LEDs as the D4V2?

Don’t check any of the boxes for auxiliary color. If you leave them blank, and specify Andruil, you will get the D4SV2.

This is beginning to sound like old video game cheat codes. Hank really needs to create a new product listing for the D4SV2 to avoid all of this confusion.

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