GT mini~reflash the latest firmware~

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Capoxi
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Any links to the GTmini sourcecode and hexfile.

JasonWW
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Steel, I just noticed you reflashed it to NarsilM v1.2

The manual says it’s supposed to come with v1.3.

Did your early production model have a bug in it or something?

JasonWW
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Capoxi wrote:
Any links to the GTmini sourcecode and hexfile.

I know where NarsilM v1.2 is, but v1.3 is harder to find. I think Texas_Ace has it. Do you know him?
Texas_Ace
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JasonWW wrote:
Steel, I just noticed you reflashed it to NarsilM v1.2

The manual says it’s supposed to come with v1.3.

Did your early production model have a bug in it or something?

His prototype had the thermal regulation set to off by default. It could of been changed in the menu as well but re-flashing ensured it was like the production lights will be.

Texas_Ace
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Capoxi wrote:
Any links to the GTmini sourcecode and hexfile.

Here is the complete firmware file for the Mini-GT

DB Custom
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TA, are they using a sense resistor to limit current?

Texas_Ace
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DB Custom wrote:
TA, are they using a sense resistor to limit current?

It is an FET driver, so no sense resistor is needed.

Basically a 2 channel TA driver.

DB Custom
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So why only 3A and 1200 lumens?

Is their choice of MOSFET that poor?

Capoxi
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Thanks Texas_Ace for posting the sourcecode.

Like the GTmini for being a thrower with a simple, almost famillier driver,small and single 18650.

Having the sourcecode now makes me even like it more.

Texas_Ace
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DB Custom wrote:
So why only 3A and 1200 lumens?

I have not taken an official reading but I expect it to be the normal for an XP-L HI, without spring bypasses, ~4-5A.

1250 lumens is pretty good for an XP-L HI without spring bypasses.

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Steel shows a Uni-T clamp meter on it, out of light, making only 3A on a GA and less than 3.5A on a VTC6, pretty lousy. Should be doing closer to 6A on that C6 and around 1500 lumens or more.

If that’s all that driver can do I’ll have to wipe it and build an FET+1 with the more standard components. Should be able to see over 1700 lumens in the assembled bypassed light.

That’s if, of course, I stay with the XP-L emitter…

Texas_Ace
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DB Custom wrote:
Steel shows a Uni-T clamp meter on it, out of light, making only 3A on a GA and less than 3.5A on a VTC6, pretty lousy. Should be doing closer to 6A on that C6 and around 1500 lumens or more.

If that’s all that driver can do I’ll have to wipe it and build an FET+1 with the more standard components. Should be able to see over 1700 lumens in the assembled bypassed light.

That’s if, of course, I stay with the XP-L emitter…

The wires are about 50x too long in those pictures as well and causing massive voltage drop.

In the light the readings will be much higher. I can take some on my light if people want but it is using a NW LED I swapped in instead of the stock LED.

The driver is the same as any other FET driver, the only real change you could make outside of spring bypasses to get more power would be swapping the FET for a lower resistance model. Although the one they are using is not bad.

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I’m thinking the driver spring is the real (POS) problem, probably using a XP-L HI V2 instead of a V3. I have only found and used the V3’s in 1A and 1C, I don’t know of any Neutral Warm V3’s only V2’s.

The MOSFET is an Infineon, BSC009NE2LS-DS. I use the same FET, no problems getting over 23+amps with it.

https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-BSC009NE2LS-DS-v02_03-en.pdf?file...

Same FET Lexel use’s on his High Output drivers..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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I agree, that spring is not very good.

I just took a reading with my light and the swapped LED and got 4.5A without bypasses. Basically what I would expect and what they rated it at.

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What diameter is the driver?

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Gravedigger1 wrote:
What diameter is the driver?

Technically it is a 22.5mm driver but it is press fit and needs to be lined up with some bumps in the edge to work, so I would not plan on swapping drivers, piggybacking is a more practical option if that is needed, although I don’t see that working out real well since I doubt a buck driver would fit.

That is unless someone makes a driver just for this light.

JasonWW
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Here’s a few measurements from my CW version. With a 30Q @30s I got 2.85A at top of ramp and 5.5A on turbo. Quite good. Same clamp meter as Steel.

I also got 148kcd @30s.

So quite good performance.

I have a lot more numbers if anyone wants them. Link here.

SKV89
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148kcd is really good. Is that with the spring bypass or stock?

Also do you have a D1S to compare it with?

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SKV89 wrote:
148kcd is really good. Is that with the spring bypass or stock?

Also do you have a D1S to compare it with?


That’s stock. The tail cap has a double spring, but the driver is a single. At least it’s a short single spring.

I don’t have a D1S.

Narmattaru
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thanx!

mortuus
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is there much difference between using a 30Q battery or a samsung 35E battery ?

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For most situations, I would go with the 30Q.

Lower internal resistance, so more power, and more efficient at higher power levels than 3A.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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mortuus wrote:
is there much difference between using a 30Q battery or a samsung 35E battery ?

Like BSM said, with a FET light like this, a high drain battery will get you higher output than a high capacity battery.

You basically trade some of that high output for some extra runtime when the voltage gets real low.

Here is a comparison with the Sanyo GA 3500, it’s very similar to the 35E.

As you can see, they are both pretty good. There are just some small differences.

mortuus
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okay great gonna use the 30q then Smile

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d_t_a
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JasonWW wrote:
Can anyone explain why Steel is only getting 3.4 amps from a high drain battery? I would expect more. At least 4.5A.

Is it due to the super long LED wires he’s using to test with?

I’ve tried measuring the current when the 18650 is housed in a similar kind of battery holder. I think the battery holder’s springs plus the thin wires are causing a massive drop..

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UPDATE TO MANUAL

After trying mode 4 and mode 10 it appears that the groups are reversed.

Modes 1-6 use full turbo as 100% (5A)

Modes 7-12 use the top of the ramp as 100% (2.5A)

We definitely need an updated manual to reflect this.

Edit: And here it is.
GT Mini User Manaual
.

Texas_Ace
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JasonWW wrote:
UPDATE TO MANUAL

After trying mode 4 and mode 10 it appears that the groups are reversed.

Modes 1-6 use full turbo as 100% (5A)

Modes 7-12 use the top of the ramp as 100% (2.5A)

We definitely need an updated manual to reflect this.

The GT mini manual was printed before the “official” manual was sent to lumintop IIRC. So this manual is one they made without really understanding the details.

The manual we sent them has the correct modes.

GT Mini User Manaual

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Texas_Ace wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
UPDATE TO MANUAL

After trying mode 4 and mode 10 it appears that the groups are reversed.

Modes 1-6 use full turbo as 100% (5A)

Modes 7-12 use the top of the ramp as 100% (2.5A)

We definitely need an updated manual to reflect this.

The GT mini manual was printed before the “official” manual was sent to lumintop IIRC. So this manual is one they made without really understanding the details.

The manual we sent them has the correct modes.

GT Mini User Manaual


Cool, now we just need to get rid of the old manual links and update them. Thanks. Thumbs Up
d_t_a
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Regarding NarsilM versions.

The stock BLF Q8 (and it seems even the currently-produced models) come with NarsilM v1.0 (can be updated to NarsilM v1.2 — I wonder why they didn’t do so from the factory, for this bestselling light; which fixes the strobes mode to be cyclable)

The BLF GT comes with NarsilM v1.2

The Lumintop GT Mini now comes with NarsilM v1.3

What is changed between v1.3 and v1.2 of NarsilM? Is there a changelog somewhere?

(I notice the Fireflies ROT66 also just comes with NarsilM v1.2 ; any other factory-produced lights that come pre-installed with NarsilM?)

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d_t_a wrote:
Regarding NarsilM versions.

The stock BLF Q8 (and it seems even the currently-produced models) come with NarsilM v1.0 (can be updated to NarsilM v1.2 — I wonder why they didn’t do so from the factory, for this bestselling light; which fixes the strobes mode to be cyclable)

The BLF GT comes with NarsilM v1.2

The Lumintop GT Mini now comes with NarsilM v1.3

What is changed between v1.3 and v1.2 of NarsilM? Is there a changelog somewhere?

(I notice the Fireflies ROT66 also just comes with NarsilM v1.2 ; any other factory-produced lights that come pre-installed with NarsilM?)


I guess you could say Thorfire is lazy and/or doesn’t want to risk the newer version having a flaw or issue. So they just leave it as it is. It’s works fine as is, it just lacks a few features. It’s also possible that they need someone to tailor M v1.2 to work reliabily on the Q8. I’m not sure.

I don’t know if there is a changelog between M v1.2 and M v1.3. I don’t think any features changed, it was mostly cleaning up code, tweaks, etc… that the user will not see. M v1.0 to M v1.2 is where we had all the changes that the user notices.

Here is a link about NarsilM in general, but it’s not up to date, I think. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54635

No other lights come with NarsilM, although Lexel and Texas_Ace do make drivers that use it if you want to convert an existing light to using it.

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