Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

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klrman
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ToyKeeper wrote:
klrman wrote:
I let it blink and then do nothing
If you don't press anything, it won't change the value. Pressing nothing is how you tell it to leave the values unchanged.
klrman wrote:
Is there anyway to go past the ceiling that is set in Anduril?
Yes. While the light is on, double-click. This bypasses the ceiling and goes to full power. If you do that and it's still not as bright, there's probably a physical issue like dirty contacts or weak batteries or something, instead of a configuration issue.

 

 

Reset the maximum ceiling by pressing once and just cleaned all the contacts inside and on top of the carrier as well as the spring inside the head, but no difference.  Then I swapped the carrier and batteries from my brighter rot66 but that didn't do anything either.  I just emailed Jack, maybe he has an idea what is going on.  Somehow I'm convinced there is a fix for this.

 

Interestingly enough, I went for a walk in the park tonight to show off my mateminco mt70 plus to my wife and of course if failed to turn on!  Confused for a little while and then decided to clean all contact points inside and outside of the carrier as well as the head spring and it fired  up.  Amazing that an almost invisible amount of grease can shut the light down.  I understand that it should be weaker but the light wouldn't even turn on and the breathing switch was dead until I cleaned everything up.

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klrman wrote:

Interestingly enough, I went for a walk in the park tonight to show off my mateminco mt70 plus to my wife and of course if failed to turn on!  Confused for a little while and then decided to clean all contact points inside and outside of the carrier as well as the head spring and it fired  up.  Amazing that an almost invisible amount of grease can shut the light down.  I understand that it should be weaker but the light wouldn’t even turn on and the breathing switch was dead until I cleaned everything up.


Try this, remove the tail cap and carrier, make sure the battery tube is screwed in all the way in. Then install the carrier and tail cap.

If the battery tube is not screwed all the way in, the tail cap threads might bottom out and and not push the carrier against the head with sufficient force. You might be borderline with the carrier just barely touching and a little grease might be causing a big problem.

I’m not sure what is going on with the ROT66. Are both lights using the xpl-hi?

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klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

Interestingly enough, I went for a walk in the park tonight to show off my mateminco mt70 plus to my wife and of course if failed to turn on!  Confused for a little while and then decided to clean all contact points inside and outside of the carrier as well as the head spring and it fired  up.  Amazing that an almost invisible amount of grease can shut the light down.  I understand that it should be weaker but the light wouldn't even turn on and the breathing switch was dead until I cleaned everything up.

Try this, remove the tail cap and carrier, make sure the battery tube is screwed in all the way in. Then install the carrier and tail cap. If the battery tube is not screwed all the way in, the tail cap threads might bottom out and and not push the carrier against the head with sufficient force. You might be borderline with the carrier just barely touching and a little grease might be causing a big problem. I'm not sure what is going on with the ROT66. Are both lights using the xpl-hi?

 

Ok, that didn't work, but you just gave me an idea, thanks!!!!  I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it's just as bright as the first one  I've noticed throughout the threads that you never seem to give up on ideas, thanks man, really appreciate the help.

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Shocked . Shocked .. /\ …. Great!! .. Thumbs Up

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JasonWW
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klrman wrote:

I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it’s just as bright as the first one  I’ve noticed throughout the threads that you never seem to give up on ideas, thanks man, really appreciate the help.

Interesting, I wonder if the battery tube threads on the ROT66 are cut slightly deeper on one end?

There is another fix people have used on the big Mateminco lights which is make a thin spacer to put between the carrier and tail cap. Some early model MF01 had slightly too long battery tubes, or too short carrier, so even with the battery tube and tail cap fully tightened the carrier did not touch. A spacer in the tail cap pushes the carrier forward. Try that on the MT70.

Maybe these ROT66 have a similar issue where the threads are cut differently, etc… and it prevents the carrier from pushing hard against the head.

Anyway, I’m glad you got the ROT66 sorted out.

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klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:
I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it's just as bright as the first one  I've noticed throughout the threads that you never seem to give up on ideas, thanks man, really appreciate the help.
Interesting, I wonder if the battery tube threads on the ROT66 are cut slightly deeper on one end? There is another fix people have used on the big Mateminco lights which is make a thin spacer to put between the carrier and tail cap. Some early model MF01 had slightly too long battery tubes, or too short carrier, so even with the battery tube and tail cap fully tightened the carrier did not touch. A spacer in the tail cap pushes the carrier forward. Try that on the MT70. Maybe these ROT66 have a similar issue where the threads are cut differently, etc... and it prevents the carrier from pushing hard against the head. Anyway, I'm glad you got the ROT66 sorted out.

 

Will measure in the morning as there must be a slight difference in thread length.  Not really sure why it would make a difference though as the battery tube would still be the same length?  Anyway, it worked and bright as the sun now.  

 

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It's anodized on the inside, so I'm guessing it can't be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.

 

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klrman wrote:

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It’s anodized on the inside, so I’m guessing it can’t be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.



There’s no power going through the battery tube or tail cap on any of the Astrolux MF lights (MF01, 2, 4, 4S) which includes the Mateminco versions. They all use the same 6v carrier as well.

Both positive and negative go straight from the carrier to the head of the flashlight.

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klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It's anodized on the inside, so I'm guessing it can't be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.

There's no power going through the battery tube or tail cap on any of the Astrolux MF lights (MF01, 2, 4, 4S) which includes the Mateminco versions. They all use the same 6v carrier as well. Both positive and negative go straight from the carrier to the head of the flashlight.

 

Thanks.  I may have some thin aluminum around that I could use as a spacer. 

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ToyKeeper wrote:
If something made the switch close for a moment, then yes, it would turn on… it’s just odd for that to happen while it’s sitting unused on a shelf.

The time window for weird firmware behavior is only a few seconds. Certainly less than a minute. If it acted up more than a minute after being touched, it’s most likely a hardware issue, not firmware.


Thanks for your input. This isn’t the sort of light that I would use for camping or other important roles so I’m not overly concerned about its reliability, but I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on it and not leaving batteries in it long term.
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klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It’s anodized on the inside, so I’m guessing it can’t be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.


There’s no power going through the battery tube or tail cap on any of the Astrolux MF lights (MF01, 2, 4, 4S) which includes the Mateminco versions. They all use the same 6v carrier as well. Both positive and negative go straight from the carrier to the head of the flashlight.

 


Thanks.  I may have some thin aluminum around that I could use as a spacer. 


Using an aluminum spacer may create a new path for the negative to flow through the battery tube and tail cap. That should be okay, but you might not be able to lock out the light. I would recommend using either a paper or plastic spacer.

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JasonWW
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Random Dan wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
If something made the switch close for a moment, then yes, it would turn on… it’s just odd for that to happen while it’s sitting unused on a shelf.

The time window for weird firmware behavior is only a few seconds. Certainly less than a minute. If it acted up more than a minute after being touched, it’s most likely a hardware issue, not firmware.


Thanks for your input. This isn’t the sort of light that I would use for camping or other important roles so I’m not overly concerned about its reliability, but I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on it and not leaving batteries in it long term.

You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

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klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It's anodized on the inside, so I'm guessing it can't be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.

There's no power going through the battery tube or tail cap on any of the Astrolux MF lights (MF01, 2, 4, 4S) which includes the Mateminco versions. They all use the same 6v carrier as well. Both positive and negative go straight from the carrier to the head of the flashlight.

 

Thanks.  I may have some thin aluminum around that I could use as a spacer. 

Using an aluminum spacer may create a new path for the negative to flow through the battery tube and tail cap. That should be okay, but you might not be able to lock out the light. I would recommend using either a paper or plastic spacer.

 

Ok, will try a plastic one then and see how it goes thank you.

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JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

Ish. The ROT66 doesn’t use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn’t guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.

klrman wrote:
I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it’s just as bright as the first one 

That’s odd. On the two I’ve tried, it doesn’t matter which direction the tube is. I just make sure to tighten the tailcap onto the tube, then tighten the tube into the head, and it keeps the battery carrier pressed against the driver with as much force as possible. I also think it looks a little nicer that way — with the slack area between the tube and head, where it’s invisible, instead of between the tube and the tail.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.
Ish. The ROT66 doesn't use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn't guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.
klrman wrote:
I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it's just as bright as the first one 
That's odd. On the two I've tried, it doesn't matter which direction the tube is. I just make sure to tighten the tailcap onto the tube, then tighten the tube into the head, and it keeps the battery carrier pressed against the driver with as much force as possible. I also think it looks a little nicer that way -- with the slack area between the tube and head, where it's invisible, instead of between the tube and the tail.

 

I don't understand it either.  Sometimes things don't make any sense until they do, this could be one of them.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

Ish. The ROT66 doesn’t use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn’t guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.


In the case of the MF lights, and I assumed this one, loosening the tail cap or battery tube should allow the driver spring to push the carrier away from the head breaking the negative contact.

This doesn’t work on the ROT66? How can the light possibly run without something pushing on the carrier to compress the driver springs?

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JasonWW wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

Ish. The ROT66 doesn’t use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn’t guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.


In the case of the MF lights, and I assumed this one, loosening the tail cap or battery tube should allow the driver spring to push the carrier away from the head breaking the negative contact.

This doesn’t work on the ROT66? How can the light possibly run without something pushing on the carrier to compress the driver springs?

In one of my ROT66’s the battery carrier is so tight that I can push it all the way in and run the light with no tail cap at all – of course you can bump it and disconnect

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/\ Set it lens down & the carrier will contact the spring. That would do it wouldn’t it??

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

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JasonWW
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teacher wrote:
/\ Set it lens down & the carrier will contact the spring. That would do it wouldn’t it??

The carrier has to touch in 2 points to get both positive and negative electricity flowing. The driver spring is the positive and the carrier has to touch the body around the driver area.

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shirnask wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

Ish. The ROT66 doesn’t use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn’t guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.


In the case of the MF lights, and I assumed this one, loosening the tail cap or battery tube should allow the driver spring to push the carrier away from the head breaking the negative contact.

This doesn’t work on the ROT66? How can the light possibly run without something pushing on the carrier to compress the driver springs?

In one of my ROT66’s the battery carrier is so tight that I can push it all the way in and run the light with no tail cap at all – of course you can bump it and disconnect


As long as something is pushing the carrier all the way down allowing it to make contact with the head in 2 places, you will get power flowing.

The bump issue could be caused either by the carrier compressing against the tailcap and losing contact at the head or it could be from all three batteries compressing against their springs and losing contact at the positive end.

Does the tail cap press directly against the carrier or does it have something spongy between them?

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teacher
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JasonWW wrote:
teacher wrote:
/\ Set it lens down & the carrier will contact the spring. That would do it wouldn’t it??
The carrier has to touch in 2 points to get both positive and negative electricity flowing. The driver spring is the positive and the carrier has to touch the body around the driver area.
Facepalm ….. Yep, I overlooked that minor (but extremely important) detail it seems. . Facepalm

Oh well….. back to the drawing board. . Big Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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So I got the light back that I had the auxiliary board put in and placed batteries in it charged to 4.19v. I returned from work 3 hours later and the red LEDs had kicked in. They were now at 3v each. I charged them overnight back to 4.19v and turned the light onto the moonlight setting at 5 this morning, took my wife to the hospital for tests, took her to breakfast back to the hospital then home almost exactly 4 hours later and tested the batteries. They’re at 4.1v

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

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So your aux LED are drawing more than moonlight. I’ve had my aux LEDs on for four or five days and my battery charge hasn’t moved. All three at 4.19V just where I had them. My aux LED came preinstalled.

PS that’s a short workday :thumbs up:

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nokoff wrote:
So your aux LED are drawing more than moonlight.

No, it’s more likely it was some type of other drain.

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FF,
When might your PL47 be in stock? I’m interested in a 3-5k lumen headlamp that might fit my current headband.

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aginthelaw wrote:
placed batteries in it charged to 4.19v. I returned from work 3 hours later and the red LEDs had kicked in. They were now at 3v each.

That’s extremely high drain… like 3 Amps. It sounds a lot like one of the batteries might be inserted backward.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
aginthelaw wrote:
placed batteries in it charged to 4.19v. I returned from work 3 hours later and the red LEDs had kicked in. They were now at 3v each.

That’s extremely high drain… like 3 Amps. It sounds a lot like one of the batteries might be inserted backward.


It couldn’t be a backwards battery because that would cause a direct short and the springs would melt and you’d get smoke as you inserted the battery.

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JasonWW wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
aginthelaw wrote:
placed batteries in it charged to 4.19v. I returned from work 3 hours later and the red LEDs had kicked in. They were now at 3v each.

That’s extremely high drain… like 3 Amps. It sounds a lot like one of the batteries might be inserted backward.


It couldn’t be a backwards battery because that would cause a direct short and the springs would melt and you’d get smoke as you inserted the battery.

I don’t think so. The light uses dual gold plated BeCu C17500 springs. It’d be almost impossible to melt them even in a direct short.

I do wonder what caused the large drain inside of the ROT66 though. Is it possible the light got activated by mistake inside of a bag or something, and drained down to LVP?

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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I’m repeating the experiment with 2 completely different sets of three batteries in the two lights. I think the third one arrives Monday

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:
I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it's just as bright as the first one  I've noticed throughout the threads that you never seem to give up on ideas, thanks man, really appreciate the help.
Interesting, I wonder if the battery tube threads on the ROT66 are cut slightly deeper on one end? There is another fix people have used on the big Mateminco lights which is make a thin spacer to put between the carrier and tail cap. Some early model MF01 had slightly too long battery tubes, or too short carrier, so even with the battery tube and tail cap fully tightened the carrier did not touch. A spacer in the tail cap pushes the carrier forward. Try that on the MT70. Maybe these ROT66 have a similar issue where the threads are cut differently, etc... and it prevents the carrier from pushing hard against the head. Anyway, I'm glad you got the ROT66 sorted out.

 

Just to clear things up, I ran the MT70 Plus on turbo again today and it went dead.  What happened was that the batteries were tripping as I was using the protected keeppowers, ncr18650ga.  Yesterday I thought that after I cleaned all the contacts and tried again that it was the problem as it ran again, but no, cells just tripping. Yesterday after all the cleaning, I didn't run it in turbo so it didn't cut out.  Need to order more 30Q's as I took one away and then used only three in my rot66.

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Boost drivers, like in the MT70, require high voltage (minimal resistance) to run turbo modes. Any type of protected cell is going to add resistance which reduces voltage and the driver tries to draw more amperage to compensate.

You definitely want a high drain unprotected cell to keep the voltage high under load.

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