Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

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teacher
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Shocked . Shocked .. /\ …. Great!! .. Thumbs Up

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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JasonWW
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klrman wrote:

I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it’s just as bright as the first one  I’ve noticed throughout the threads that you never seem to give up on ideas, thanks man, really appreciate the help.

Interesting, I wonder if the battery tube threads on the ROT66 are cut slightly deeper on one end?

There is another fix people have used on the big Mateminco lights which is make a thin spacer to put between the carrier and tail cap. Some early model MF01 had slightly too long battery tubes, or too short carrier, so even with the battery tube and tail cap fully tightened the carrier did not touch. A spacer in the tail cap pushes the carrier forward. Try that on the MT70.

Maybe these ROT66 have a similar issue where the threads are cut differently, etc… and it prevents the carrier from pushing hard against the head.

Anyway, I’m glad you got the ROT66 sorted out.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:
I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it's just as bright as the first one  I've noticed throughout the threads that you never seem to give up on ideas, thanks man, really appreciate the help.
Interesting, I wonder if the battery tube threads on the ROT66 are cut slightly deeper on one end? There is another fix people have used on the big Mateminco lights which is make a thin spacer to put between the carrier and tail cap. Some early model MF01 had slightly too long battery tubes, or too short carrier, so even with the battery tube and tail cap fully tightened the carrier did not touch. A spacer in the tail cap pushes the carrier forward. Try that on the MT70. Maybe these ROT66 have a similar issue where the threads are cut differently, etc... and it prevents the carrier from pushing hard against the head. Anyway, I'm glad you got the ROT66 sorted out.

 

Will measure in the morning as there must be a slight difference in thread length.  Not really sure why it would make a difference though as the battery tube would still be the same length?  Anyway, it worked and bright as the sun now.  

 

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It's anodized on the inside, so I'm guessing it can't be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.

 

JasonWW
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klrman wrote:

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It’s anodized on the inside, so I’m guessing it can’t be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.



There’s no power going through the battery tube or tail cap on any of the Astrolux MF lights (MF01, 2, 4, 4S) which includes the Mateminco versions. They all use the same 6v carrier as well.

Both positive and negative go straight from the carrier to the head of the flashlight.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It's anodized on the inside, so I'm guessing it can't be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.

There's no power going through the battery tube or tail cap on any of the Astrolux MF lights (MF01, 2, 4, 4S) which includes the Mateminco versions. They all use the same 6v carrier as well. Both positive and negative go straight from the carrier to the head of the flashlight.

 

Thanks.  I may have some thin aluminum around that I could use as a spacer. 

Random Dan
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ToyKeeper wrote:
If something made the switch close for a moment, then yes, it would turn on… it’s just odd for that to happen while it’s sitting unused on a shelf.

The time window for weird firmware behavior is only a few seconds. Certainly less than a minute. If it acted up more than a minute after being touched, it’s most likely a hardware issue, not firmware.


Thanks for your input. This isn’t the sort of light that I would use for camping or other important roles so I’m not overly concerned about its reliability, but I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on it and not leaving batteries in it long term.
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klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It’s anodized on the inside, so I’m guessing it can’t be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.


There’s no power going through the battery tube or tail cap on any of the Astrolux MF lights (MF01, 2, 4, 4S) which includes the Mateminco versions. They all use the same 6v carrier as well. Both positive and negative go straight from the carrier to the head of the flashlight.

 


Thanks.  I may have some thin aluminum around that I could use as a spacer. 


Using an aluminum spacer may create a new path for the negative to flow through the battery tube and tail cap. That should be okay, but you might not be able to lock out the light. I would recommend using either a paper or plastic spacer.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

JasonWW
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Random Dan wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
If something made the switch close for a moment, then yes, it would turn on… it’s just odd for that to happen while it’s sitting unused on a shelf.

The time window for weird firmware behavior is only a few seconds. Certainly less than a minute. If it acted up more than a minute after being touched, it’s most likely a hardware issue, not firmware.


Thanks for your input. This isn’t the sort of light that I would use for camping or other important roles so I’m not overly concerned about its reliability, but I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on it and not leaving batteries in it long term.

You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus?  It's anodized on the inside, so I'm guessing it can't be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.

There's no power going through the battery tube or tail cap on any of the Astrolux MF lights (MF01, 2, 4, 4S) which includes the Mateminco versions. They all use the same 6v carrier as well. Both positive and negative go straight from the carrier to the head of the flashlight.

 

Thanks.  I may have some thin aluminum around that I could use as a spacer. 

Using an aluminum spacer may create a new path for the negative to flow through the battery tube and tail cap. That should be okay, but you might not be able to lock out the light. I would recommend using either a paper or plastic spacer.

 

Ok, will try a plastic one then and see how it goes thank you.

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JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

Ish. The ROT66 doesn’t use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn’t guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.

klrman wrote:
I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it’s just as bright as the first one 

That’s odd. On the two I’ve tried, it doesn’t matter which direction the tube is. I just make sure to tighten the tailcap onto the tube, then tighten the tube into the head, and it keeps the battery carrier pressed against the driver with as much force as possible. I also think it looks a little nicer that way — with the slack area between the tube and head, where it’s invisible, instead of between the tube and the tail.

klrman
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ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.
Ish. The ROT66 doesn't use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn't guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.
klrman wrote:
I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it's just as bright as the first one 
That's odd. On the two I've tried, it doesn't matter which direction the tube is. I just make sure to tighten the tailcap onto the tube, then tighten the tube into the head, and it keeps the battery carrier pressed against the driver with as much force as possible. I also think it looks a little nicer that way -- with the slack area between the tube and head, where it's invisible, instead of between the tube and the tail.

 

I don't understand it either.  Sometimes things don't make any sense until they do, this could be one of them.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

Ish. The ROT66 doesn’t use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn’t guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.


In the case of the MF lights, and I assumed this one, loosening the tail cap or battery tube should allow the driver spring to push the carrier away from the head breaking the negative contact.

This doesn’t work on the ROT66? How can the light possibly run without something pushing on the carrier to compress the driver springs?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

shirnask
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JasonWW wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

Ish. The ROT66 doesn’t use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn’t guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.


In the case of the MF lights, and I assumed this one, loosening the tail cap or battery tube should allow the driver spring to push the carrier away from the head breaking the negative contact.

This doesn’t work on the ROT66? How can the light possibly run without something pushing on the carrier to compress the driver springs?

In one of my ROT66’s the battery carrier is so tight that I can push it all the way in and run the light with no tail cap at all – of course you can bump it and disconnect

teacher
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/\ Set it lens down & the carrier will contact the spring. That would do it wouldn’t it??

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

JasonWW
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teacher wrote:
/\ Set it lens down & the carrier will contact the spring. That would do it wouldn’t it??

The carrier has to touch in 2 points to get both positive and negative electricity flowing. The driver spring is the positive and the carrier has to touch the body around the driver area.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

JasonWW
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shirnask wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

Ish. The ROT66 doesn’t use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn’t guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.


In the case of the MF lights, and I assumed this one, loosening the tail cap or battery tube should allow the driver spring to push the carrier away from the head breaking the negative contact.

This doesn’t work on the ROT66? How can the light possibly run without something pushing on the carrier to compress the driver springs?

In one of my ROT66’s the battery carrier is so tight that I can push it all the way in and run the light with no tail cap at all – of course you can bump it and disconnect


As long as something is pushing the carrier all the way down allowing it to make contact with the head in 2 places, you will get power flowing.

The bump issue could be caused either by the carrier compressing against the tailcap and losing contact at the head or it could be from all three batteries compressing against their springs and losing contact at the positive end.

Does the tail cap press directly against the carrier or does it have something spongy between them?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:
teacher wrote:
/\ Set it lens down & the carrier will contact the spring. That would do it wouldn’t it??
The carrier has to touch in 2 points to get both positive and negative electricity flowing. The driver spring is the positive and the carrier has to touch the body around the driver area.
Facepalm ….. Yep, I overlooked that minor (but extremely important) detail it seems. . Facepalm

Oh well….. back to the drawing board. . Big Smile

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

aginthelaw
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So I got the light back that I had the auxiliary board put in and placed batteries in it charged to 4.19v. I returned from work 3 hours later and the red LEDs had kicked in. They were now at 3v each. I charged them overnight back to 4.19v and turned the light onto the moonlight setting at 5 this morning, took my wife to the hospital for tests, took her to breakfast back to the hospital then home almost exactly 4 hours later and tested the batteries. They’re at 4.1v

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

nokoff
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So your aux LED are drawing more than moonlight. I’ve had my aux LEDs on for four or five days and my battery charge hasn’t moved. All three at 4.19V just where I had them. My aux LED came preinstalled.

PS that’s a short workday :thumbs up:

Nokoff..still Made in China

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nokoff wrote:
So your aux LED are drawing more than moonlight.

No, it’s more likely it was some type of other drain.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

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FF,
When might your PL47 be in stock? I’m interested in a 3-5k lumen headlamp that might fit my current headband.

ToyKeeper
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aginthelaw wrote:
placed batteries in it charged to 4.19v. I returned from work 3 hours later and the red LEDs had kicked in. They were now at 3v each.

That’s extremely high drain… like 3 Amps. It sounds a lot like one of the batteries might be inserted backward.

JasonWW
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ToyKeeper wrote:
aginthelaw wrote:
placed batteries in it charged to 4.19v. I returned from work 3 hours later and the red LEDs had kicked in. They were now at 3v each.

That’s extremely high drain… like 3 Amps. It sounds a lot like one of the batteries might be inserted backward.


It couldn’t be a backwards battery because that would cause a direct short and the springs would melt and you’d get smoke as you inserted the battery.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

BlueSwordM
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JasonWW wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
aginthelaw wrote:
placed batteries in it charged to 4.19v. I returned from work 3 hours later and the red LEDs had kicked in. They were now at 3v each.

That’s extremely high drain… like 3 Amps. It sounds a lot like one of the batteries might be inserted backward.


It couldn’t be a backwards battery because that would cause a direct short and the springs would melt and you’d get smoke as you inserted the battery.

I don’t think so. The light uses dual gold plated BeCu C17500 springs. It’d be almost impossible to melt them even in a direct short.

I do wonder what caused the large drain inside of the ROT66 though. Is it possible the light got activated by mistake inside of a bag or something, and drained down to LVP?

aginthelaw
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I’m repeating the experiment with 2 completely different sets of three batteries in the two lights. I think the third one arrives Monday

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:
I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it's just as bright as the first one  I've noticed throughout the threads that you never seem to give up on ideas, thanks man, really appreciate the help.
Interesting, I wonder if the battery tube threads on the ROT66 are cut slightly deeper on one end? There is another fix people have used on the big Mateminco lights which is make a thin spacer to put between the carrier and tail cap. Some early model MF01 had slightly too long battery tubes, or too short carrier, so even with the battery tube and tail cap fully tightened the carrier did not touch. A spacer in the tail cap pushes the carrier forward. Try that on the MT70. Maybe these ROT66 have a similar issue where the threads are cut differently, etc... and it prevents the carrier from pushing hard against the head. Anyway, I'm glad you got the ROT66 sorted out.

 

Just to clear things up, I ran the MT70 Plus on turbo again today and it went dead.  What happened was that the batteries were tripping as I was using the protected keeppowers, ncr18650ga.  Yesterday I thought that after I cleaned all the contacts and tried again that it was the problem as it ran again, but no, cells just tripping. Yesterday after all the cleaning, I didn't run it in turbo so it didn't cut out.  Need to order more 30Q's as I took one away and then used only three in my rot66.

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Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
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Location: Houston Texas

Boost drivers, like in the MT70, require high voltage (minimal resistance) to run turbo modes. Any type of protected cell is going to add resistance which reduces voltage and the driver tries to draw more amperage to compensate.

You definitely want a high drain unprotected cell to keep the voltage high under load.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

Modded S70S with MTN FET driver, RampingIOS (D4) and lighted side switch.

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

klrman
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Joined: 11/07/2016 - 22:44
Posts: 1876
Location: Canada

Have so many batteries in flashlights everywhere that I started to lose track of them all.  I never remembered cells tripping in turbo on my mt70 plus before, then it dawned on me that the mt70 was the light I borrowed the 30Q's from to use in my rot66.  So they always had 30Q's in them before and then I used the carrier from my mf02 in it which had the protected cells.  Anyway, too much info, but yeah, high drains needed for sure.

SKV89
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Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 1722
Location: US

I just received my black XP-L HI 3A blemished one at a discount from Fireflies. If it wasn’t stated that way, I wouldn’t even notice any blemish at all. My initial lumen measurements were 5,431 lumens at 1s on freshly charged VTC5D. However, like my other ROT66 that were making low lumen output, putting a spacer between the tail cap and battery cage increases contact pressure between the battery cage and the head, which increased lumen output to 6,940 lumens!

I suggest everyone use spacers (e.g., folded napkins, rubber bands, etc.) and remeasure your lumen output. Two of my ROT66 had this issue with not enough compression at the contact point causing low output. The compression force relies on the resistance of the rubber in the tailcap pushing up on the battery cage. However, over time, the rubber gets permanently deformed and loses its elasticity so there’s less rebound pressure pushing up against the cage. For those people that leave the battery cage tightened in the flashlight for a period of time, retest your lumen output. I’m pretty sure it is a good amount lower than when it was brand new.

I like the tint on the XP-L HI 3A alot. It is about 5200k, a very clean NW/CW and when compared next to 219B 4500k doesn’t look green at all unlike many other flashlights. However when shined on actual objects and not just white walls, the 219b 9080 still does a far superior job at color rendering. The XP-L HI runs cooler though.

Newlumen
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Joined: 05/27/2017 - 00:19
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Location: United states

I have my three rot66 stand by for 5 days after fully charged..

Rot66 aux mode ( med ). 4.17 v

Rot66 aux mode ( med ). 4.14v

Rot66 aux mode ( high). 4.17 v

Sorry to hear some of you people have a high drain stand by..

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