Omnicharge Omni Ultimate Powerbank (USB-C, AC out, DC out, 12x18650)

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maukka
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Omnicharge Omni Ultimate Powerbank (USB-C, AC out, DC out, 12x18650)

So Omnicharge just released this:
https://www.omnicharge.co/products/omni-ultimate/

AC Outlet: 120W Pure Sine Wave
DC Out: 150W
Adjustable Voltage & Amperage
USB-C Port: 60W Max
2 x USB-A Ports: 5V/3A per port
DC Input: 90W
40,300 mAh (145Wh)
3 Hour Recharge Time
Removable Battery
11-Layers of Protection
Splash and Dust Resistant
Pass-Through Charging

I’ve been super happy with the original Omnicharge Pro/20, especially the adjustable DC output has been very handy. It also works superbly with a solar panel with fluctuating voltage and current. The Ultimate adds more capacity, power, pure sine AC output and adjustable current limit on the DC output as well as USB-C.

The downside: $299 for the early bird special.

Edited by: maukka on 08/08/2018 - 00:29
will34
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Interesting product… Can you share a little more about the adjustable DC output?

Does it need special cords? Does the OLED screen measure current? General idea about efficiency?

Looks very handy and the range is great, I bet it can even decently charge a car battery, unlike those “portable jumpstarters” which only work when the charge is full and are useless below 60% charge.

The only thing I don’t like is (I suppose) they use NCR-B cells, pretty much outdated and not very good for heavy loads.

ChibiM
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Interesting! You can now use a LED TV on a battery Smile

maukka
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It looks like they have a proprietary connection on the DC out similar to the one that connects the replaceable battery to the device. Probably because a typical 5.5×2.1 or 5.5×2.5 mm jack isn’t meant for 70 V. It will probably come with an adapter cable with lots of tips just like the original Omnicharge.

The OLED screen at least on the current one tells you the consumption in watts drawn from the batteries (so includes losses). I measured the efficiency at about 85-90% on the Omnicharge Pro depending on load. Highest with the DC output charging a Macbook Pro (16.5 V) or with a 20 V DC load at 2 A which would indicate that the batteries have at least part of them in series (smaller voltage difference).

maukka
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Btw, my Omnicharge has the NCR18650GA, which they probably use in this one as well.

will34
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maukka wrote:
Btw, my Omnicharge has the NCR18650GA, which they probably use in this one as well.

Good to know, thanks! I’m a lot more interested now.

zelee
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interesting product but the price is not for my wallet right now

Don’t mistake my kindness for weakness.
I am kind to everyone, but when someone is unkind to me, weak is not what you are going to remember about me.

mrheosuper
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Cough….
I can make one, for cheaper, but not as beautiful
Just grab a car battery and a sine inverter, done :3
If you want to charge your phone, plug your adapter in, sime as that

Forgot my pen

atbglenn
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They say the $299 is half off the normal price. I’d love to get one, but it’s on the expensive side.

will34
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mrheosuper wrote:
Cough…. I can make one, for cheaper, but not as beautiful Just grab a car battery and a sine inverter, done :3 If you want to charge your phone, plug your adapter in, sime as that

Been there, easier said than done. A true sine wave inverter will run you about $100, not those fake sine wave at $30 or less and the inverter alone would be the size of this whole unit. You’ll need to either use LiFePo4 or a 12-24V inverter because 3S Li-Ion triggers LVP too quickly and 4S might be too high. Independent inverters with high output requires substantial load in order to maintain good efficiency, some can consume up to 30W while idle.

Ended up spending $200 for a 600W true sine wave inverter, in a wheeled toolbox with 125Ah AGM battery, 75V/15A MPPT solar controller for multiple input options, the unit weights about 100 lbs but runs very well and can be used as a UPS indefinitely by using a 350W AC-DC adapter on the input side. I’m going to post a build thread when it’s finished. It’s better than most “diy portable solar generators” out there spec-wise, but if I ever had to do everything again I’d just buy a goal zero yeti lithium instead, much more compact and can be easily transported around. Same applies with this Omni charge, many have attempted DIY power banks with adjustable DC out with little success, let alone 110V and 60W USB-C Power Delivery.

angerdan
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Whats new to this Omnicharge?
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48954

BlueSwordM
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USB-C PD 2.0 compatibility!

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

tempo
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I Like the Wireless charging

Boaz
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For $300

 just buy this handy portable charger 

 

 

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                                  https://www.gty.org/

 

    Still selling diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

Phlogiston
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+1 for self-propelled chargers Smile

will34 wrote:
[DIY portable solar generator]

I’m going to post a build thread when it’s finished.

Cool!

RobertB
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Put two wheelchair batteries in an ammo can, couple of usb ports and call it a day. Under 100 bucks.

BlueSwordM
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Ah!

This is where you guys are half right, half wrong.

You can make a higher capacity battery pack for cheaper.

However, it uses lead acid cells, which you can only drain down to 50% SOC before losing a lot of cycle life, while you can drain down a lithium ion battery pack down to 10% SOC and have even better cycle life than a 50% SOC lead acid.

Second, his design only has USB A ports, not USB-C ports which can receive and output 60W of power.

3. It does not feature a pure sinewave inverter.

4. It’s much lighter.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

RobertB
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I really don’t care about usb-c… or a built-in battery powered inverter. I’m strong enough to lift 5lbs. Had single one of these wheelchair batteries running my kids Gator (electric car) for several years before they outgrew it.. It would run for hours and hours before needing a recharge with a Deltran battery tender.

The only use I found for an inverter was to run my wood stove fan during a power outage in the winter. Have 3 deep cycle marine batteries, and each one runs the fan for 20hrs. All this stuff is still less than $600.

maukka
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The campaign is now live at Indiegogo.

will34
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Backed the Omni ultimate with protective case and spare battery.

It’s a huge amount of $$$ for just 290Wh but AFAIK there isn’t any other product on the market that have the same output capabilities. And then there’s the 9-30V input with MPPT controller which makes it perfect for hooking up large solar panels.

I could’ve bought the yeti lithium 400 for less but I don’t really like the idea of 12V output by direct connection to a 3S Li-Ion pack. It means below ~60% charge you would be triggering LVP on 12V devices, some are set as high as 10.8V.

will34
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My unit just shipped, will let you know more about it when it arrives.

will34
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Been playing with my unit for a couple days and these are my first impressions:

The good:
-Real MPPT controller on the input side. Tried with several AC-DC adapters and it consistently draws the maximum Wattage, it first does a test run from zero to max and then depending on the voltage drop or overload protection tripping it will set the correct input current, you can even watch the input power drop as the adapter heats up.
-Independent DC input and output module allows for pass-through charging
-Can be charged via DC and USB C PD at the same time
-DC output is precise and within 0.03V of set voltage

The bad:
-The unit has to be manually turned on and doesn’t auto turn off if there’s something connected, even when the device being charged is full.
-MR30 to DC adapter had a very loose fit on the 5.5×2.1mm side, maybe it was done on purpose to avoid cable stress?
-6 small screws has to be removed to change the battery, which was advertised to be plug and play.
-No displaying of V and A, just W
-The rubber surround was loose around the sides and feels like it will get worse over time.

maukka
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Thanks for the impressions.

It should be pretty straight forward to make your own MR30 to anything cable. Can you confirm the pinout on the output:

I suppose the signal isn’t used if there’s just a normal 5.5×2.1mm connector on the other end.

will34
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maukka wrote:
I suppose the signal isn’t used if there’s just a normal 5.5×2.1mm connector on the other end.

I haven’t thoroughly tested it yet but I think it may serve a function in the future, perhaps a feedback for automatic voltage set with device-specific adapters, like some of the universal laptop chargers with 3 pins. This would dramatically decrease the chances of ruining your device to be charged in case wrong output voltage is set. If that’s not the case then I don’t see any reason to not go with the more popular XT60 in the first place. Maybe they tried to keep it standard since the battery pack connector is also MR30.

.
.

Did some tests on the USB-A and USB-C ports.

The output is very impressive and it handled all that my YZXstudio discharger could drain. There is no voltage compensation of any kind but it remains quite stable up to 2.9A which is the maximum current draw from my ZL1100.

USB A protocols, USB C Protocols, and USB C PD compatible outputs.

USB-A 5V Load test

USB-A QC2.0 9V Load test

USB-A QC2.0 12V Load test

USB-A QC3.0 Voltage ramping 5-12V. No 20V but the devices supporting it are also very limited.

USB-C Power Delivery, available outputs: 5/9/12/15/20V all fine up to 2.9A. Anything other than PD devices can draw up to 5V 3A from this port.

maukka
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Will34, have you done a capacity test at a reasonable power draw on the Omni Ultimate?

After watching Jehu Garcia’s teardown of the Omnicharge Omni20+, I asked Omnicharge about the batteries in the Ultimate. It looks like they swapped the quality batteries (Samsung/LG/Panasonic) to cheap Chinese cells.

BAK N18650CL-29 cells

If this is the case the actual Omni Ultimate capacity has dropped from 40300mAh/145Wh still advertised on Indiegogo to 34800mAh/125Wh.

They claim that the batteries don’t heat up as much with high power draw but the BAK N18650CL-29 are rated for 3C/8.25A max discharge current with 35mOhm internal resistance. Sanyo NCR18650GA are rated for 3C/10A discharge with 38mOhm. Same specs and 14% less capacity than the Sanyo.

Also, they just today ninja edited their product page and removed the reference to Panasonic/LG chem/Samsung.

Two days ago:

Today:

will34
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Well I have and was disappointed with the performance, but it was a quick, standard 5V 1A discharge test and according to my CT-2 meter I only got 72% of claimed capacity. However the unit draws around 1.5W at standby according to the screen and the circuity side heats up quite a bit even when idle, so I assumed the low efficiency might have something to do with that.

I also ordered a spare battery and they said are just shipping now, which is rare because the powerbank itself delivered 4 months ago. There is no reason for the delay other than switching to these Chinese cells. “Lower temperature under high wattages”? anyone with any basic knowledge in batteries can smell the BS miles away.

I’m doing another discharge test right now at higher rate 12V 2A and will see the results, if my guess is correct I might see a sightly higher efficiency reading due to less time the unit being turned on. A more accurate way would be removing the battery and test it directly. Might just do that if USB output results are not convincing.

maukka
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Thanks. That poor capacity of 72% claimed could be explained partly by the 14% drop in battery capacity. Calculated using the lower capacity, it would be 83.5%, but still not as good as with the original Omni20, which reached 90% which after dc-dc losses is alright.

I still haven’t received mine nor any tracking for it either…

will34
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If the BAK batteries thing is true, that would be a huge mistake for them since many of its buyers are tech savvy. Just sent them an email asking which exact batteries are inside my unit and the spare battery that’s on the way. It would be really disappointing to know that chinese cells are inside such expensive unit, and I would go all the means necessary for them to refund.

They can’t lie, because even though the battery case is sealed there is a MR30 port that has nothing but a protection PCB in between, so no losses to be claimed.

It does seem that they edited out the information about the batteries but forgot to edit the parts that says 145Wh, I guess because they would have to go through pictures one by one. I don’t want to expect the worse but I’m afraid that was one of the risk of platforms like indiegogo.

maukka
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Yeah, it’s a shitty move for sure. Especially since it was directly specified to have good quality batteries. The BAKs could of course be alright… but not what we ordered.

If you don’t want to open your battery pack you could just probably discharge the battery directly from the pack via the MR30 connector and thus removing the electronics losses from the process edit: ah you already had this in your previous comment

maukka
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For reference, from the original Omnicharge I measured 69Wh from the USB-A QC3.0 port at 12V/1A. It has a 73Wh battery (6x Sanyo 18650GA). That comes to an extremely good efficiency of 95%. The 90% I mentioned previously was at 5V/1A.

will34
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maukka wrote:
For reference, from the original Omnicharge I measured 69Wh from the USB-A QC3.0 port at 12V/1A. It has a 73Wh battery (6x Sanyo 18650GA). That comes to an extremely good efficiency of 95%. The 90% I mentioned previously was at 5V/1A.

I’m discharging at 12V 2A with QC3.0 trigger on the USB-A port, tomorrow morning I should have the results and update this comment but I know they won’t be any good.

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