Hotrod headlamp

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pinkpanda3310
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Hotrod headlamp

I had someone ask me about headlamps and my reply was that I’m not that interested in playing around with them as there are a number of good headlamps available. After some circumstances that I won’t go into I’ve decided to ‘take the challenge’. I realize some of you may ask “why make a hotrod?” and my answer is I wanted to make something that seemed to standout amongst the commercially available products.

Parts I planned to use were TA driver with narsil from Lexel, triple luxeon 4000k from Led4power, some kinda pc heatsink that’s been kickin around my shed for ages and I bought a headlamp just for the strap and battery box. Headlamp

I started with a block of aluminium. (nevermind the straight cut Facepalm )

I lathed it flat but did something (I don’t remember what) and ruined the first block.

I made the second attempt out of ~8mm plate. I’m pretty sure it’s 6061 aluminium.

After cutting it out I milled out the guts

….and the family calls.

To be continued…

Edit: back again

Switch parts

Thermal glued the driver and star to the heatsink

I also tried to make a pattern on the face of the light but it didn’t turn out quite as I hoped. I screwed up the direction of the knurl so now the vertical and the horizontal lines are angling the same direction, I wanted opposing directions Facepalm

I cut some ‘wings’ to fit in the headband

I weighed the ingredients and was surprised to find it was lighter than the original light

Button test

Power in

I got to this point and realised I should have run the power in through heatsink so I could solder easily and ensure good wiring.

Stuffed in like sardines

A quick test on the power supply and it sucks all the amps it can get Evil I’ll have to be careful with this one

The battery box also needs upgrading so hopefully I’ll get time this weekend to finish this project Davie

Edited by: pinkpanda3310 on 08/16/2018 - 09:13
Aleister
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Very interesting project, subscribed!

Let a flooder be my wife and a thrower be my mistress

MascaratumB
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Nice Thumbs Up
This one, sir, will burn Evil

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duramax
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such a cool project, many thanks for sharing. How hot does it get when wearing?

MRsDNF
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Wow. Nice work pp. Love the the idea using the grommet for the switch. Well done. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

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pinkpanda3310
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duramax wrote:
such a cool project, many thanks for sharing. How hot does it get when wearing?

Project is not finished. I need to work on the battery box. So I haven’t worn it and don’t know if it will get branding iron hot or soldering iron hot.

Thanks guys Beer

Microa
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The heat sink seems to be 40×40×15mm. It is really a Hotrod. Big Smile

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Am I right in saying that if it pulls 40W as per the measurements shown, about half of that is light output, so there is only 20W of heat to deal with?

With a heat sink like that, it’s possible heat may not be an issue at all? I can’t imagine a 20W soldering iron heating up that heat sink to the point where the fin end is uncomfortably hot.

Am I being unrealistic?

Beam me up!

electricjelly
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Very cool project. I like your water proof switch. Interesting to see your custom work with all that heatsinking still comes in lighter than the original doner light.

finges
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Zulumoose wrote:
Am I being unrealistic?

Yes.

FET driven triple will heat that thing up pretty good Wink

kiriba-ru
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Zulumoose wrote:
Am I right in saying that if it pulls 40W as per the measurements shown, about half of that is light output, so there is only 20W of heat to deal with?

No.
Light output is more like 10 to 15%.

Need a vlogger for machine accessories reviews

Nooner
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That’s really cool Pinkpanda. I like it! Thanks for posting the build.

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Turbo test. cool

pinkpanda3310
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Hahaha that’s funny freeme LOL

I did get to wonder if maybe I’ll end up like Michael Jackson and burn my hair off. Hence I made this video of the thermal step down. I’m wondering how much of a difference it makes having the driver side by side to the mcpcb and in the same cavity. Of course 10+ amps was always going to be too much for a headlamp anyways. Maybe a fan should’ve been on the menu.

chops728
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Looks like you could end up with an imprint of that heat sink on your forehead— WARNING—stay away from hair products when in use— Big Smile

MRsDNF
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It would be interesting to see the same test with a slight breeze running across the heat sink.
21 degrees ambient. Its about half that here. Facepalm

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Lexel
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now you need to add a cooling fan

chops728
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I couldn’t resist

pinkpanda3310
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chops728 wrote:
Looks like you could end up with an imprint of that heat sink on your forehead— WARNING—stay away from hair products when in use— Big Smile

Oh I bet that’s what ruined Michaels hair do….. LOL
MRsDNF wrote:
It would be interesting to see the same test with a slight breeze running across the heat sink.
21 degrees ambient. Its about half that here. Facepalm

I did think about the airflow or lack thereof but figured the initial heat being generated would not be swayed much. Turbo charged heating….

Also my garage is kinda cosy. It was a sunny (but not too warm) day yesterday and the heat emitted from 2 car engines makes it warmer in the garage than in the house.

SKV89
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freeme wrote:

Turbo test. cool


Wow that just gave me an idea. Imagine someone created an Oslon 500kcd headlamp with a remote control. You can turn it on anytime at will and will scare the shit out of people.

pinkpanda3310
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I didn’t get to finish this project this weekend Tired But it’s getting close.

The battery box and cable was a big source of resistance. Do you like the ‘change led’ indicator? LOLLOLFacepalm

Low fat diet…. errm … I mean low resistance …

I still need to add a plug to the box for the power cable. I want to be able to unplug the batteries when not in use. So I added an led to the cable plug to indicate power and remind me/user to unplug it when finished. I stole the led and resistor from the original pcb but screwed up the led with my awesome soldering technique Facepalm So I had to steal an led from an old fried bikelight driver. It took a while but I managed to get it working.

I ran out of 5 minute epoxy so I used regular epoxy but soon after applying it I realised I should have used hot glue…. it took aaages to set and I kept turning it now and then but ended up falling asleep before it had fully set and it nearly stuck to my bedside lamp Shocked


So after feeling tickityboo about my awesome soldering skills and wise choice in glues I’ve come to the realisation that the cable is much longer than anticipated. I know I should have checked it but I was figuring a little leeway for the headband to stretch will be good. It turns out that little leeway isn’t little at all, I should have checked Facepalm Now I need to redo the end Tired

pinkpanda3310
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Oh I nearly forgot I did some more testing. Using the ramping I adjusted the current.

I tried to set the current to 1 amp and landed on 0.94a
ambient temp 19C
5 min 30C
10 min 36C
11 min I picked it up for a bit and temp dropped to 35C
15 min 37.5C
At this point I stopped. I figured it will not hit thermal step down with this current on the bench

Second test I got lucky and landed on 1.50a
ambient temp 21C
1 min 27C
2 min 30C
3 min 34C
4 min 36C
4:45 thermal step down to 0.8a 38C
5 min 38C
6 min 38C

I thought it odd to step down when the temp externally wasn’t that high. It makes me wonder (again) if the driver and leds immediately next to each other and in the same cavity is having an effect on thermal properties?

Lexel
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Oh I nearly forgot I did some more testing. Using the ramping I adjusted the current.

I tried to set the current to 1 amp and landed on 0.94a
ambient temp 19C
5 min 30C
10 min 36C
11 min I picked it up for a bit and temp dropped to 35C
15 min 37.5C
At this point I stopped. I figured it will not hit thermal step down with this current on the bench

Second test I got lucky and landed on 1.50a
ambient temp 21C
1 min 27C
2 min 30C
3 min 34C
4 min 36C
4:45 thermal step down to 0.8a 38C
5 min 38C
6 min 38C

I thought it odd to step down when the temp externally wasn’t that high. It makes me wonder (again) if the driver and leds immediately next to each other and in the same cavity is having an effect on thermal properties?

this is why you can store another temp value over the Narsil settings User interface

MRsDNF
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SmileThumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

pinkpanda3310
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Lexel wrote:
this is why you can store another temp value over the Narsil settings User interface

But I don’t understand how the internal step down temp (55C) can be the same for both the scenarios above -
max output external temp 56C at step down
low output external temp 38C at step down

It doesn’t make sense to me Question

I’m guessing the temp sensor is facing up on the driver and therefore measuring air temp within the cavity. Had I turned the driver upside down then the temp sensor would be closer the heatsink and have a different reaction time to the above cases Question maybe ??

pinkpanda3310
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This light is pretty much done now. Though I’m thinking of changing the optic as it really is floody. Generally I prefer flood for headlights and edc’s but I get the feeling something less floody would seem even more extreme for a headlight like this.

I cut the cable shorter and redid the lighted plug.

It’s not very easy taking a pic of ones own back’o‘the head

Finished wiring the battery box

Battery box under load



…aand the all important beamshot. A quick one with my phone (There might be 2 of the same pic showing)

Just for comparison this is my favourite headlamp, a skilhunt H03

Thanks for looking Cool

MRsDNF
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Its good to see you finish the build pp. Well done. Maybe a change of optic and led to tighten up the beam pattern.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Firelight2
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duramax wrote:
such a cool project, many thanks for sharing. How hot does it get when wearing?
I was thinking the same thing.

So if you have it running at full power for awhile and then accidentally bump it so the heatsink tilts back will your forehead look like you just roasted it in a waffle iron?

pinkpanda3310
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MRsDNF wrote:
Its good to see you finish the build pp. Well done. Maybe a change of optic and led to tighten up the beam pattern.

I don’t think I’ll change the leds since I glued the star to the heatsink. The optic should be quick and easy though Innocent
Firelight2 wrote:
duramax wrote:
such a cool project, many thanks for sharing. How hot does it get when wearing?
I was thinking the same thing.

So if you have it running at full power for awhile and then accidentally bump it so the heatsink tilts back will your forehead look like you just roasted it in a waffle iron?


I’ve only worn it briefly for testing and the pic. I don’t expect any hot iron branding with the rubber mount acting as an insulator. The rubber mount grips it reasonably firm so I doubt it will slip even in the wet.

red72vw
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That is a very cool build. I wouldn’t change the beam. I love that crazy wall of light it appears to throw in your pic.

As the proud owner of a couple of pinkpanda originals, I have to ask: Is it for sale?

pinkpanda3310
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Lol, thanks red72vw but this is not for sale. I built it for someone I know. It’s been interesting for me to make but I’m gonna go back to regular cylindrical lights after this.

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