Astrolux S43 - New model (On Sale)

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JasonWW
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shirnask wrote:
This is a quad

You know what I mean. Silly lol

Special optic? Oh man. I was really hoping to buy a bunch of different ones to try out. The few I’ve seen I didn’t like the beam pattern.

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shirnask
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Sorry it’s late

Flashaholics
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JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace, does the ramping go all the way to Turbo or does it stop short and you have to double click to get Turbo?

It stops short and uses a double click to turbo. Thus far there has been an vast majority approval of this method both from the feedback I have gotten directly and from the manufactures.

Naturally some prefer the ramp go all the way to turbo and there is nothing wrong with that but for Joe public I feel that the ramp stopping short is the better option.


About where does it stop, 1000 lumen?

For the 219c I get 1700 at max ramp, 3000 turbo

Turning the light on ramping straight to min and turning straight off disables the power button light until next use?

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Flashaholics wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Texas_Ace, does the ramping go all the way to Turbo or does it stop short and you have to double click to get Turbo?

It stops short and uses a double click to turbo. Thus far there has been an vast majority approval of this method both from the feedback I have gotten directly and from the manufactures.

Naturally some prefer the ramp go all the way to turbo and there is nothing wrong with that but for Joe public I feel that the ramp stopping short is the better option.


About where does it stop, 1000 lumen?

For the 219c I get 1700 at max ramp, 3000 turbo

Turning the light on ramping straight to min and turning straight off disables the power button light until next use?


If you haven’t yet, you need to read up on the Narsil interface. It’s fairly intuitive, but there can still be questions like yours that are answered in the documentation. Unfortunately, I don’t have a direct link. But if you search around BLF, I’m sure you can find it yourself. (sorry)

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JasonWW
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Flashaholics wrote:

Turning the light on ramping straight to min and turning straight off disables the power button light until next use?

Whenever you ramp up or down and release the button it will blink once to indicate it’s using the 7135. It will blink twice to indicate it’s using the FET.

There is a little glitch/feature where if you turn the light off during these blinks, the switch light will stay off until the next time you turn the light on again. This is not documented. It’s just something that was noticed.

You can also go into to the settings to turn the switch light off on a more permanent basis if you prefer.

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Flashaholics
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JasonWW wrote:
Flashaholics wrote:

Turning the light on ramping straight to min and turning straight off disables the power button light until next use?

Whenever you ramp up or down and release the button it will blink once to indicate it’s using the 7135. It will blink twice to indicate it’s using the FET.

There is a little glitch/feature where if you turn the light off during these blinks, the switch light will stay off until the next time you turn the light on again. This is not documented. It’s just something that was noticed.

You can also go into to the settings to turn the switch light off on a more permanent basis if you prefer.

Wondered if it was a glitch, the button feel in general is pretty w4nk. Hit it from an angle and nothing happens, hit it too lightly from dead on and nothing happens.

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shirnask
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Flashaholics wrote:
………… the button feel in general is pretty w4nk. Hit it from an angle and nothing happens, hit it too lightly from dead on and nothing happens.

I have two of these and the button is quite sensitive on both – could not duplicate your issue – tried on both. Might just be your light

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For what it’s worth

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There’s no green led on the S43 I received. I’ve done a factory reset. The red charging led works…but when finished, the switch just goes black.

I’m guessing I got a bad one? I would surely have liked that led in the dark, and to see if the light is locked or not.

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Switch is the only thing I didn’t like, the press had to be firm and centred.

Try turning it on at the lowest level and immediately ramping up slightly and down to min and turning it straight off.

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so anyones status ich changed into “sent”?

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JasonWW
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Flashaholics wrote:

Try turning it on at the lowest level and immediately ramping up slightly and down to min and turning it straight off.

Why are you telling him this?

Btw, you can temporarily make the green light stay off just by turning the light off while it’s still blinking after ramping. There’s no need to be elaborate or go to minimum.

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Runepune wrote:
There’s no green led on the S43 I received. I’ve done a factory reset. The red charging led works…but when finished, the switch just goes black.

I’m guessing I got a bad one? I would surely have liked that led in the dark, and to see if the light is locked or not.


It does seem like your green led is not working. Try contacting where you bought it to see if they will do anything. Maybe they will send a replacement head.

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Runepune wrote:
There’s no green led on the S43 I received. I’ve done a factory reset. The red charging led works…but when finished, the switch just goes black.

I’m guessing I got a bad one? I would surely have liked that led in the dark, and to see if the light is locked or not.

Hmm, it sounds like the Green LED is not connected properly. They had to make a last minute change to the light to switch the green LED from the charge circuit to the driver so a lot of manual labor was involved. It is inevasible there would be human error on a few of them.

As was said I would contact banggood and see what they offer. If you know your way around a soldering iron it is possible you could fix it if you opened it up, most likely just a bad connection on a wire.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Runepune wrote:
There’s no green led on the S43 I received. I’ve done a factory reset. The red charging led works…but when finished, the switch just goes black.

I’m guessing I got a bad one? I would surely have liked that led in the dark, and to see if the light is locked or not.

Hmm, it sounds like the Green LED is not connected properly. They had to make a last minute change to the light to switch the green LED from the charge circuit to the driver so a lot of manual labor was involved. It is inevasible there would be human error on a few of them.

As was said I would contact banggood and see what they offer. If you know your way around a soldering iron it is possible you could fix it if you opened it up, most likely just a bad connection on a wire.

Yes, I’ve gone through factory reset and every possible menu option now. No green led to be found anywhere Davie

I don’t have a soldering iron so I’ll await Banggood’s response for now!

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This is my first encounter with Banggood. Very swift and pleasant customer support! They will send me a new S43 Thumbs Up

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A friend has asked me for advice…he wants to buy a flashlight.
After analysis of requirements I decided that Emisar D4 would be a great choice, but a rechargeable D4 would be even better.
So S43 came to my mind….
I haven’t followed that light and know very little about it beside the fact that it has a TA-developed driver.
I did some reading, but not enough to really understand whether it’s a good pick….not that this is the most written-about light, but nevertheless the amount of discussion is large and I’d like to avoid going through all of it.

Would anyone mind answering a few simple questions?
If there are any problems known with the light?
What is the real output? I see some measurement of 3000 lm, OK. Others say 1xxx which I find pretty low for a light like that.
What is the overall quality compared to D4?
Is it reasonable to assume that this light will be reliable?

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Agro wrote:

If there are any problems known with the light?
What is the real output? I see some measurement of 3000 lm, OK. Others say 1xxx which I find pretty low for a light like that.
What is the overall quality compared to D4?
Is it reasonable to assume that this light will be reliable?

If there are any problems known with the light?
Too early to say
What is the real output?
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/63356
Is it reasonable to assume that this light will be reliable?
Too early to say. Astrolux lights in this series have had many early problems
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There are not any known issues that I’m aware of. The built in charging rate is a bit low at 0.5A. It means it takes longer to charge, but that may not be a big deal for most.

Whoever said 3000 lumen is crazy. You have 2 different emitters and 2 different models, S43 and S43S.

The S43 with the neutral white Nichia 219C emitters should be about 1600-1700 lumen.

The S43 with the cool white xpg3 emitters should be about 2100 lumen or thereabouts.

Then the S43S is an upgraded version that can draw higher amperage from a battery. This might bump it’s specs up maybe 200 lumen more.

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Agro
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Thanks for the answers. That was enough to make me make a decision – I won’t recommend that light. The tipping point was reading about the inefficiencies mentioned in the review thread.

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What is your budget? There must something else worthwhile that falls in your criteria.

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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Just got hold of the s43s and its pretty nice bearing in mind its a budget unit.
Some pics if anyone is interested. The turbo stepdown is better then the s42 and heat is better also probably due to the massive lump of copper.
i have a 18650 tube and and short tube as well.

20181128-222617-01 20181128-222627-2-01 20181128-222659-01

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Agro wrote:
Thanks for the answers. That was enough to make me make a decision – I won’t recommend that light. The tipping point was reading about the inefficiencies mentioned in the review thread.

Your friend must be a hard core flashlight guy to care so much about the efficiency. Does he also care a lot about driver efficiency? That may rule out a lot of lights, as well. Silly

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KevinZA1988 wrote:
What is your budget? There must something else worthwhile that falls in your criteria.

300 PLN, so about $78 including cell and charger (built-in charging is preferred).
I recommended Emisar D4, it was my only recommendation truly faithful to the requirements (small, BRIGHT, very good quality). But since the person liked the idea of a built-in USB charger, I know he likes gadgets and he likes to travel – I also recommended Folomov EDC-C4 as its powerbank feature might be more valuable than the output.

ADDED:

JasonWW wrote:
Agro wrote:
Thanks for the answers. That was enough to make me make a decision – I won’t recommend that light. The tipping point was reading about the inefficiencies mentioned in the review thread.

Your friend must be a hard core flashlight guy to care so much about the efficiency. Does he also care a lot about driver efficiency? That may rule out a lot of lights, as well. Silly

Since he cares a lot about output and S43 doesn’t deliver, largely because of a major design flaw – I decided it’s not worth recommending. D4 costs $12 more (with shorty tube and 219C) and delivers 75% higher output. The person wants small weight and here D4 is better as well. The XP-L HI option may be interesting as well, if he wants D4 I’ll talk the LED choice with him.

ADDED: Also, it’s quite funny S43 output is closer to that of EDC-C4 that to that of Emisar D4….It sits half way between a boring work light and a flashy toy – in both output and features.

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I would recommend the Olight S2R Baton II. It’s over a thousand lumens, great beam, uses Olight proprietary charging system which I personally love. It is reliable, has good run times, is comoact, has a proper warranty and customer service. For a non-Flashaholic it’s ideal.

Got one for my brother in law who’s a non-flashaholic and it is his favourite light. Not sure if you have a Olight dealer in your country though…

Otherwise clicky switch lights are very reliable and easy to repair in case of a rare failure.

Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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OTR U18 checks most of your boxes.

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For the record, the S43 driver is exactly the same efficiency as any other 7135 based driver, they all do exactly the same thing, using exactly the same components. That includes the D4 driver, The D4 is technically using a TA driver.

The only difference between the D4 and S43 driver is the pinout used for the MCU and the S43 has the add-on charging board.

Now the optic in the S43 is not the best and the bezel does reduce some of the light output lowing the OTF lumens and thus the efficiency of the light.

Just wanted to clear up that the efficiency drop is after the driver.

Oh and I am pretty sure that most of the low output that the S43 has in stock form is due to the springs, bypasses should bump the output up to close to if not the same as the D4 seeing as everything else between the lights is basically the same with the bin of the LED’s being a a possible exception. I warned them that the springs were sub-par but at this time I was not able to get them to fix it.

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Agro wrote:

Since he cares a lot about output and S43 doesn’t deliver, largely because of a major design flaw – I decided it’s not worth recommending. D4 costs $12 more (with shorty tube and 219C) and delivers 75% higher output. The person wants small weight and here D4 is better as well. The XP-L HI option may be interesting as well, if he wants D4 I’ll talk the LED choice with him.

ADDED: Also, it’s quite funny S43 output is closer to that of EDC-C4 that to that of Emisar D4….It sits half way between a boring work light and a flashy toy – in both output and features.


Wow. You really believe all that?

How does the D4 deliver 75% higher output when it uses the same leds, driver and battery? It makes you scratch your head and wonder “Hmmm, something doesn’t sound right”. Anyway, good luck on the search. Thumbs Up

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JasonWW wrote:
Agro wrote:

Since he cares a lot about output and S43 doesn’t deliver, largely because of a major design flaw – I decided it’s not worth recommending. D4 costs $12 more (with shorty tube and 219C) and delivers 75% higher output. The person wants small weight and here D4 is better as well. The XP-L HI option may be interesting as well, if he wants D4 I’ll talk the LED choice with him.

ADDED: Also, it’s quite funny S43 output is closer to that of EDC-C4 that to that of Emisar D4….It sits half way between a boring work light and a flashy toy – in both output and features.


Wow. You really believe all that?

How does the D4 deliver 75% higher output when it uses the same leds, driver and battery? It makes you scratch your head and wonder “Hmmm, something doesn’t sound right”. Anyway, good luck on the search. Thumbs Up


I actually did think about it and I don’t see the community measurements unbelievable.
Optical losses – we know that S43 has them high. Emisar likely has them lower, but obviously non-0.
Electrical resistance – Emisar is known to be superb in this regard, S43? Doesn’t seem bad, but it’s likely worse.
LEDs – Emisar uses the top bin for the CRI. How about Mateminco / Astrolux?
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Agro wrote:
Electrical resistance – Emisar is known to be superb in this regard, S43? Doesn’t seem bad, but it’s likely worse.

Due to the way a linear driver such as these in the D4 and S43 work, this has no effect on efficiency in the lower modes, technically it makes the driver itself more efficient if you want to get really picky.

What it does do though is limit the maximum output. This is where a fair amount of the lower max output on the S43 comes from.

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