Astrolux S43 - New model (On Sale)

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Agro
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
I would recommend the Olight S2R Baton II. It’s over a thousand lumens, great beam, uses Olight proprietary charging system which I personally love. It is reliable, has good run times, is comoact, has a proper warranty and customer service. For a non-Flashaholic it’s ideal.

Got one for my brother in law who’s a non-flashaholic and it is his favourite light. Not sure if you have a Olight dealer in your country though…

Otherwise clicky switch lights are very reliable and easy to repair in case of a rare failure.


pennzy wrote:
OTR U18 checks most of your boxes.

Thank you both for recommendations. Frankly I believe that for this friend, both S2R Baton II and U18 may be technically inferior to EDC-C4, but they should be of a little higher quality. Local availability of Olight is a plus as well because that friend isn’t happy to wait for long holiday season shipping. Though the price with shipping within country is actually slightly above the budget.

I’ve been thinking about a range of clicky lights, frankly I believe that a $7 S2+ would be good enough for the actual needs of the friend. But I know too well that “want” often is more important than “need”. Smile I already asked how strict I should be at limiting size, maybe that will unlock some clicky options like BLF A6.

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Agro wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
I would recommend the Olight S2R Baton II. It’s over a thousand lumens, great beam, uses Olight proprietary charging system which I personally love. It is reliable, has good run times, is comoact, has a proper warranty and customer service. For a non-Flashaholic it’s ideal.

Got one for my brother in law who’s a non-flashaholic and it is his favourite light. Not sure if you have a Olight dealer in your country though…

Otherwise clicky switch lights are very reliable and easy to repair in case of a rare failure.


pennzy wrote:
OTR U18 checks most of your boxes.

Thank you both for recommendations. Frankly I believe that for this friend, both S2R Baton II and U18 may be technically inferior to EDC-C4, but they should be of a little higher quality. Local availability of Olight is a plus as well because that friend isn’t happy to wait for long holiday season shipping. Though the price with shipping within country is actually slightly above the budget.

I’ve been thinking about a range of clicky lights, frankly I believe that a $7 S2+ would be good enough for the actual needs of the friend. But I know too well that “want” often is more important than “need”. Smile I already asked how strict I should be at limiting size, maybe that will unlock some clicky options like BLF A6.


I’m really digging the new Sofirn SP33 with xhp50.2. It’s only $23. You can also buy it with a decent battery and simple charger for about $29.

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hank
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Is the “hammer” made of carbide, or steel?

Agro
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JasonWW wrote:
Agro wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
I would recommend the Olight S2R Baton II. It’s over a thousand lumens, great beam, uses Olight proprietary charging system which I personally love. It is reliable, has good run times, is comoact, has a proper warranty and customer service. For a non-Flashaholic it’s ideal.

Got one for my brother in law who’s a non-flashaholic and it is his favourite light. Not sure if you have a Olight dealer in your country though…

Otherwise clicky switch lights are very reliable and easy to repair in case of a rare failure.


pennzy wrote:
OTR U18 checks most of your boxes.

Thank you both for recommendations. Frankly I believe that for this friend, both S2R Baton II and U18 may be technically inferior to EDC-C4, but they should be of a little higher quality. Local availability of Olight is a plus as well because that friend isn’t happy to wait for long holiday season shipping. Though the price with shipping within country is actually slightly above the budget.

I’ve been thinking about a range of clicky lights, frankly I believe that a $7 S2+ would be good enough for the actual needs of the friend. But I know too well that “want” often is more important than “need”. Smile I already asked how strict I should be at limiting size, maybe that will unlock some clicky options like BLF A6.


I’m really digging the new Sofirn SP33 with xhp50.2. It’s only $23. You can also buy it with a decent battery and simple charger for about $29.

Thanks, though I really don’t think this size class is interesting for the friend. I haven’t heard back since yesterday, so I don’t know if any major size increase is on the cards, but SP33 next to shorty D4….not really comparable.
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anyone tried to replace the leds with xplhi? could it be the same brightness as emisar d4?

EDC- Jetbeam E40R,Emisar D4V2 XPLHI

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vresto wrote:
anyone tried to replace the leds with xplhi? could it be the same brightness as emisar d4?

Yes and no. The driver itself is the same design in both lights, I think the D4 just uses a better FET so it is slightly lower resistance.

The real reason the S43 has lower output is the optic is a fair amount less efficient then the D4, so not as many lumens make it out the front of the light.

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Hm.. I think about the real visible difference.. Texas, do you think it would bé a big difference or just… Cos 500 lumens plus mínus… Ya know so many y People bought the emisar d4 that its still my nightmare. But ot not to buy, but i love the USB option.. A little less lumens Sister of emisar would not kill mé…

EDC- Jetbeam E40R,Emisar D4V2 XPLHI

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I don’t have a D4 to test but I think others have tested both and noted how the S43 seems to have lower numbers. Those lower numbers are mostly caused by the optic. Most would not notice the difference unless they were side by side.

I keep trying to tell them to switch to using the carlco optics and they will gain free lumens and a better beam but not getting much traction.

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I see that some have changed the 219C to 351D. How did you do that? I tried it, but it turned out that the silicone dome 351D is larger in diameter than the hole in the optics. I put a 351D with standard optics and twisted the bezel. the joy of good light was not long. When removing the optics, the silicone dome of the two 351D came off.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
I don’t have a D4 to test but I think others have tested both and noted how the S43 seems to have lower numbers. Those lower numbers are mostly caused by the optic. Most would not notice the difference unless they were side by side.

I keep trying to tell them to switch to using the carlco optics and they will gain free lumens and a better beam but not getting much traction.


Also, opens up easy flexibility for customization of beam pattern. Floody, focused, narrow, wide, elliptical… I just started getting into this with an FW3A. Quite sad to hear that the S43 optic is not only proprietary but nearly 25% inefficient. That’s seriously disappointing. Anyway, based on Carclo quad optic designs, they’d have to use a different MCPCB and LED spacing.
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Yeah, I have tried to get them to switch to Carclo optics for a long time now but the Boss just won’t do it for some reason. Sad since that is basically the only weak point to the light.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Yeah, I have tried to get them to switch to Carclo optics for a long time now but the Boss just won’t do it for some reason. Sad since that is basically the only weak point to the light.

Yeah, it’s tempting to install a replacement sapphire glass without the optic and use it as a mule.
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I recently received the copper version, the S43S with Nichia 219c emitters. I really like it. Having read most of this thread with people complaing how ugly this light was, I was pleastly surprised that it didn’t look bad at all. In fact, it’s hard to understand why people complained about the S43’s plain battery tube, when they didn’t complain about the D4’s BTW, I think they the too lights look strikingly similar.

My only problem with my light has been that I can’t seem to get it to work with the short tube and a KeepPower 1200 mah 18350 cell. In spite of cleaning all the contacts, the light intermittantly falsely reports a low voltage in the cell and won’t put out enough output and doesn’t go into turbo. Then if I play around with tightening the head or tail cap, it works correctly for a while. I suspect these cells aren’t compatible,since the light works perfectly with a VC6 18650. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Is there 18350 cell that works well with this light? Perhaps the LightPower ells can’t deliver enough amps?

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BabyDoc wrote:
I recently received the copper version, the S43S with Nichia 219c emitters. I really like it. Having read most of this thread with people complaing how ugly this light was, I was pleastly surprised that it didn’t look bad at all. In fact, it’s hard to understand why people complained about the S43’s plain battery tube, when they didn’t complain about the D4’s BTW, I think they the too lights look strikingly similar.

My only problem with my light has been that I can’t seem to get it to work with the short tube and a KeepPower 1200 mah 18350 cell. In spite of cleaning all the contacts, the light intermittantly falsely reports a low voltage in the cell and won’t put out enough output and doesn’t go into turbo. Then if I play around with tightening the head or tail cap, it works correctly for a while. I suspect these cells aren’t compatible,since the light works perfectly with a VC6 18650. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Is there 18350 cell that works well with this light? Perhaps the LightPower ells can’t deliver enough amps?

I might be mistaken but it might be that you have to flip the head and tail switch. It could be the anodizing?

“Electricity is really just organized lightning”
― George Carlin

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Btw, I have the s43s and I also purchased the short tube, mine has not exhibited that issue, yet.

“Electricity is really just organized lightning”
― George Carlin

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I assume you mean that I should switch the head and tail ends of the battery tube around, which I did do. Which 18350 cell did you use that worked well for you? Thanks!

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BabyDoc wrote:
I assume you mean that I should switch the head and tail ends of the battery tube around, which I did do. Which 18350 cell did you use that worked well for you? Thanks!

Try different 18350. Keeppower is a little long.

FL Newbie

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BabyDoc wrote:
I assume you mean that I should switch the head and tail ends of the battery tube around, which I did do. Which 18350 cell did you use that worked well for you? Thanks!

I have an efest 18350, the purple v2 700mah

“Electricity is really just organized lightning”
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Thanks for the suggestion. I just noticed some irregular anodizing on the rim edge of the head end of the 18350 tube. Could this be causing my problem? If so, what would be the best way to get rid of this? I tried steel wool without success.

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xevious wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Yeah, I have tried to get them to switch to Carclo optics for a long time now but the Boss just won’t do it for some reason. Sad since that is basically the only weak point to the light.

Yeah, it’s tempting to install a replacement sapphire glass without the optic and use it as a mule.
which one please is it the carclo optic? any link? i cant believe it can be really visible difference……but each lumen meand a higher quality of my life:)))))))))) thanks

EDC- Jetbeam E40R,Emisar D4V2 XPLHI

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BabyDoc wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion. I just noticed some irregular anodizing on the rim edge of the head end of the 18350 tube. Could this be causing my problem? If so, what would be the best way to get rid of this? I tried steel wool without success.

It’s essential that the ends of the battery tube be clean and raw aluminum. Since the threads are fully anodized you have to fully screw the tube into the head and the tail to the tube until they bottom out. The battery tube has different length threads on each end so it only works in one direction. Assuming this is all okay, then you are limited by battery length. A too long battery will not let you thread both ends all the way down.

IIRC, certain button top 18350 cells are too long and won’t let you fully screw on the ends. Is your Keeppower a button top or flat top, protected or not?

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I just gently sanded the head end of the 18350 battery tube to remove the traces of anodizing that I found there. Now my light works great, but only when the end cap or head are tightened just right. If either are tightened too much, the light works,but doesn’t ramp down to low. Instead, it ramps all the down to no output and turns off. From off, it won’t then go into instant moon or turbo. What is strange is that although I can get the light to work perfectly with one of my KeepPower 18350 cells, I can’t get it to work right with another identical cell,no matter how the head and tail cap are tightened. (Both cells are flat tops and unprotected.) So far now, until I can buy another brand of cell to try that might not be so finicky, I will just leave in place the one cell that works and take advantage of the internal charging ability of this light to recharge it.

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JasonWW wrote:
BabyDoc wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion. I just noticed some irregular anodizing on the rim edge of the head end of the 18350 tube. Could this be causing my problem? If so, what would be the best way to get rid of this? I tried steel wool without success.

It’s essential that the ends of the battery tube be clean and raw aluminum. Since the threads are fully anodized you have to fully screw the tube into the head and the tail to the tube until they bottom out. The battery tube has different length threads on each end so it only works in one direction. Assuming this is all okay, then you are limited by battery length. A too long battery will not let you thread both ends all the way down.

IIRC, certain button top 18350 cells are too long and won’t let you fully screw on the ends. Is your Keeppower a button top or flat top, protected or not?


After filing away the anodizing, the light worked better but would flicker if the head and tail cap weren’t tightened just right. I had to untighten one or the other for the flashlight to work correctly. If the head or tail were a bit too snug, the light misbehaved

Taking your suggestion about my batteries perhaps being too long, I then probably did a No-No, but it worked. I gave the negative end of the battery a light hit with a hammer and the flat end of small bolt, in order create a slight dent in that end of the cell. Now, the S43S with that effectively shortened 18350 cell works perfectly, even with the head and tail fully tightened. I didn’t damage the wrapper on the cell. So,I am hoping it is safe to use with the dented negative terminal. What do you think?

Perhaps,without wanting to shorten the 18350 tube, I did, when I unintentionaly removed more than anodizing on end of the tube. Therefore, this flat unprotected cell may have been the right length to begin with, had the tube not been shortened. (I guess I won’t know unless I can get another tube.)

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BabyDoc wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
BabyDoc wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion. I just noticed some irregular anodizing on the rim edge of the head end of the 18350 tube. Could this be causing my problem? If so, what would be the best way to get rid of this? I tried steel wool without success.

It’s essential that the ends of the battery tube be clean and raw aluminum. Since the threads are fully anodized you have to fully screw the tube into the head and the tail to the tube until they bottom out. The battery tube has different length threads on each end so it only works in one direction. Assuming this is all okay, then you are limited by battery length. A too long battery will not let you thread both ends all the way down.

IIRC, certain button top 18350 cells are too long and won’t let you fully screw on the ends. Is your Keeppower a button top or flat top, protected or not?


After filing away the anodizing, the light worked better but would flicker if the head and tail cap weren’t tightened just right. I had to untighten one or the other for the flashlight to work correctly. If the head or tail were a bit too snug, the light misbehaved

Taking your suggestion about my batteries perhaps being too long, I then probably did a No-No, but it worked. I gave the negative end of the battery a light hit with a hammer and the flat end of small bolt, in order create a slight dent in that end of the cell. Now, the S43S with that effectively shortened 18350 cell works perfectly. I didn’t damage the wrapper on the cell, so I am hoping it is safe to use with the dented negative terminal. What do you think?

Perhaps,without wanting to shorten the 18350 tube, could I have done so, when I unintentionally filed away more than anodizing on the end of the tube?


Hmmm, it’s always risky denting a battery. It might have been better to take some diagonal cutters and trim one of the springs a bit shorter.

If you have the S43, then you have single springs on both ends. When the springs are fully compressed you get “coil bind” and it becomes solid. Clipping one or two coils and bending the end so it doesn’t scratch should give you an extra millimeter or two.

I’m surprised your running into this problem with unprotected flat tops. I guess some brands 18350 are noticable longer than others.

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JasonWW wrote:
BabyDoc wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
BabyDoc wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion. I just noticed some irregular anodizing on the rim edge of the head end of the 18350 tube. Could this be causing my problem? If so, what would be the best way to get rid of this? I tried steel wool without success.

It’s essential that the ends of the battery tube be clean and raw aluminum. Since the threads are fully anodized you have to fully screw the tube into the head and the tail to the tube until they bottom out. The battery tube has different length threads on each end so it only works in one direction. Assuming this is all okay, then you are limited by battery length. A too long battery will not let you thread both ends all the way down.

IIRC, certain button top 18350 cells are too long and won’t let you fully screw on the ends. Is your Keeppower a button top or flat top, protected or not?


After filing away the anodizing, the light worked better but would flicker if the head and tail cap weren’t tightened just right. I had to untighten one or the other for the flashlight to work correctly. If the head or tail were a bit too snug, the light misbehaved

Taking your suggestion about my batteries perhaps being too long, I then probably did a No-No, but it worked. I gave the negative end of the battery a light hit with a hammer and the flat end of small bolt, in order create a slight dent in that end of the cell. Now, the S43S with that effectively shortened 18350 cell works perfectly. I didn’t damage the wrapper on the cell, so I am hoping it is safe to use with the dented negative terminal. What do you think?

Perhaps,without wanting to shorten the 18350 tube, could I have done so, when I unintentionally filed away more than anodizing on the end of the tube?


Hmmm, it’s always risky denting a battery. It might have been better to take some diagonal cutters and trim one of the springs a bit shorter.

If you have the S43, then you have single springs on both ends. When the springs are fully compressed you get “coil bind” and it becomes solid. Clipping one or two coils and bending the end so it doesn’t scratch should give you an extra millimeter or two.

I’m surprised your running into this problem with unprotected flat tops. I guess some brands 18350 are noticable longer than others.


I really think the cells would have been fine if I had a clean battery tube to begin with. The demension specs on my cells are about the same as any other unprotected cell that I checked. I probably just shortened the tube when I filed that anodizing away. I am glad to hear that denting a cell’s cathode won’t harm it. I appreciate all of your help. How does a long cell making the spring solid make the light not work right? Isn’t the cellstill making contact? (Forgive the newbie question.)

BTW,the S43S does not have a spring on the head end. It has a solid contact. Apparently, this was a change from the S41 and S42 design in order lessen resistance and improve current flow. Perhaps, a relatively long battery puts too much pressure on the pcb board, particularly when the tail spring is compressed solid.
As an aside, I am not sure if clipping the tail cap spring would have been a good idea for this light. I do also have a 18650 tube with which I might need to use that same tailcap, in which case it might not work right with that shorter spring.

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With a battery tube that has anodized threads, like this one, the head and the tail have to be screwed down all the way.

If the spring coil binds because the battery is too long, or maybe there is solder preventing the spring from compressing normally, then you can’t fully screw the head and tail on.

If you want to think of electricity flowing from negative to positive, the negative side of the battery flows electrons to the spring, to the pcb in the tail cap, to the battery tube end, to the other end of the battery tube and touches the outer ring of the driver.

If you want to think of electricity flowing from positive to negative, after the electrons go through the led and driver they go to the driver outer ring and then to the battery negative end the same way I described above, just in reverse.

If none of the threads were anodized you would not have any issues with battery length, but then you wouldn’t be able to easily lock out the light.

So there are trade offs to each design.

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BabyDoc wrote:

BTW,the S43S does not have a spring on the head end. It has a solid contact. Apparently, this was a change from the S41 and S42 design in order lessen resistance and improve current flow. Perhaps, a relatively long battery puts too much pressure on the pcb board, particularly when the tail spring is compressed solid.
As an aside, I am not sure if clipping the tail cap spring would have been a good idea for this light. I do also have a 18650 tube with which I might need to use that same tailcap, in which case it might not work right with that shorter spring.

Do you have the S43S? I thought you had the S43 since this thread is about that model.

The S43 had single springs like the S41 and S42, but they changed it for the copper head version.

If I had your issue with the S43S, I might just remove the smaller inner spring. This will let the bigger, outer spring compress a bit more, but maybe it won’t pull as many amps. I wouldn’t worry too much about that, though. This requires a bit more work and a soldering iron.

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There IS discussion in this thread earlier about both the S43 and S43S, even though it began with the S43. I didnt realize they were different except for the copper in the S43S.

Anyway, my light now works great with the dented cell and the fixed, shorter than normal, 18350 tube. In fact, I like this light so much, I just ordered a second one with the same Nichia 219C emitters. You can’t beat the price of $29 Bangood has going now on the S43S.

Why a second you might ask? By having two lights, I can have two ready to go, one with the short tube for EDC, easier to carry use, and the other, with a 18650 tube for when more extended capacity is necessary. I will replace the 18350 tube I just fixed and accidentally shorted with the tube that comes with new light. Hopefully, the new tube will not have issues and allow me to use undented 18350 cells. We will see.

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Jason, I have both the S43 and the S43S, both have a solid contact in the head and dual springs in the tail – see below

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JasonWW wrote:
With a battery tube that has anodized threads, like this one, the head and the tail have to be screwed down all the way.

If the spring coil binds because the battery is too long, or maybe there is solder preventing the spring from compressing normally, then you can’t fully screw the head and tail on.

If you want to think of electricity flowing from negative to positive, the negative side of the battery flows electrons to the spring, to the pcb in the tail cap, to the battery tube end, to the other end of the battery tube and touches the outer ring of the driver.

If you want to think of electricity flowing from positive to negative, after the electrons go through the led and driver they go to the driver outer ring and then to the battery negative end the same way I described above, just in reverse.

If none of the threads were anodized you would not have any issues with battery length, but then you wouldn’t be able to easily lock out the light.

So there are trade offs to each design.


Why do my undented cells only work correctly when I find the sweet spot for tightening. Only if I tighten fully the light misbehaves. If I back off from fully tight, I can get it sometimes to work correctly.

Therefore, I am not following you when you say that the head and tail cap can’t be tighted down all the way. That might be true if the cell was way too long. But my cell can’t be way too long if just a small dent fixes things. Furthermore, as I just said, because it will work sometimes with an undented cell when head and tail are NOT tight.

So could my undented cell, sandwiched between the solid head contact and fully compressed spring in the tail, be placing undue pressure on the boards controlling the light when head and tail are fully tight? Otherwise, how would you explain that loosening the head or tail might get it to work correctly?

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