[♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies PL47 Gen II 4*XP-L/ Nichia/ SST20 Hi CRI 21700 Right Angle Flashlight - ALIVE

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ToyKeeper
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It basically means the ramp is configured to the shape of “x to the ninth power”… but scaled to fit. Every available ramp formula generates a smooth curve, but different formulas emphasize different parts of the output range. The ninth power thing I used places more of the ramp steps toward the bottom, then escalates quickly at the top.

In theory, a cube / cube-root shape should be visually linear, but I find it really depends on the light. So I made the curve shape a parameter for the calculator, for easier fine-tuning. And I use different shapes for different lights… just depends on what seems appropriate for each model. This one was actually calibrated for the Emisar D4S, and then copied to PL47 because it uses an extremely similar driver and emitter configuration.

The ramp shapes it has so far are: square, cube, fifth, ninth, and log. In order, they get progressively steeper at the top of the ramp and progressively flatter at the bottom of the ramp.

In any case, the higher it goes, the faster it rises. It’s not linear.

DB Custom
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See why we love her? Love

Beautiful and painfully smart to boot. The beauty behind my brawn (lumenetically speaking, of course) I don’t have to understand it, I just have to run big enough wires to it to light the moon… Big Smile

Kalpn
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ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, the inside of my PL47 measures 21.8 mm in diameter. The cell I’m using measures 21.3 mm by 70.5 to 70.1 mm depending on where I measure it. 70.5 mm including the wrapper, or about 70.1 mm between + and – contacts.

Some other things which may be worth noting:

  • On the 219B version, a high-amp cell could actually result in fewer lumens than a lower-amp cell. It could easily drive the emitters on the wrong (overheated) side of their output curve, overshooting the peak. So… use the recommended cells.
  • Apparently the light ships in muggle mode by default, so output may seem pretty unimpressive until it’s put back into regular modes.
  • Double-click from off does not go to turbo by default. To get to full power, turn the light on and then double click.

I got my pl47 nichia 219b yesterday. Using 30T at 3.5v or Sanyo ga with adapter, the turbo works fine.

Using a fully charged 30T, turbo will overdrive the led, giving a purplish bluish tint.

So stick to toykeeper’s advice. Recommended cells only.

Mildlyangryjohnny
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ToyKeeper wrote:

In any case, the higher it goes, the faster it rises. It’s not linear.

Thanks! That helps me visualize it better. Which also confirms my suspicions. It seemed to me there were going to be other factors that my model did not account for, and why my brain kept telling me there was a curvey thing going on and not a linear one.

I wonder if there is a simple way of estimating output like i did per ramp level without having to use your algorithm? To, say, approximate output levels or is it more likely that the formula keeps changing as it rises—i think is what your saying. In which case the approximation is that, “the higher it goes, the faster it rises.”

There has to be a formula that could do this. I am afraid however, that i lack the competencies necessary to do it myself.

Thank you for your input!

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ToyKeeper wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Does the PL47 Anduril still have 255 steps? I though I read that was default for the UI.

I can say with ramp floor set to lvl 10 on my 219B is NOWHERE near 120 lumens. Probably closer to 2 or 3 at most.

It has 150 ramp steps from moon (level 1) to turbo (level 150).

Internally, this is implemented by using PWM with duty cycles of 0 to 255 on multiple power channels. But as far as the user needs to know, it’s 150 ramp steps following something close to a perceptually-linear curve.

150, good to know. I like the UI on the PL47, thanks again!

Question: My PL47 is at default setting, when I ramp up it stops short of turbo and I must double click for max brightness, I’m assuming this is as intended and I’m ok with that. Aprox what % of max brightness (turbo) is the top of the default ramping? 50%? 75%?

Newlumen
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Ok.. i tried again.. i use blue samsung 40t, and got 4210 lumen.. this is for xpl hi 5000k.

Newlumen
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JordanZHP wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Does the PL47 Anduril still have 255 steps? I though I read that was default for the UI.

I can say with ramp floor set to lvl 10 on my 219B is NOWHERE near 120 lumens. Probably closer to 2 or 3 at most.

It has 150 ramp steps from moon (level 1) to turbo (level 150).

Internally, this is implemented by using PWM with duty cycles of 0 to 255 on multiple power channels. But as far as the user needs to know, it’s 150 ramp steps following something close to a perceptually-linear curve.

150, good to know. I like the UI on the PL47, thanks again!

Question: My PL47 is at default setting, when I ramp up it stops short of turbo and I must double click for max brightness, I’m assuming this is as intended and I’m ok with that. Aprox what % of max brightness (turbo) is the top of the default ramping? 50%? 75%?

Top of the ramp max is 1600 lumen. Or 40 %.. all stock

Tom Tom
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The ramp curve is not a neat thing that can be easily calculated and implemented based on pure theory, one size fits all.

Particularly once you start multiplexing in a FET for direct drive at the higher levels, mixed in with the characteristics of particular cells, be they brand new, or aged, full charge, or lesser (realistic).

Hence the need to try to wind things back, where there is an obvious miss-match between the capabilities of the LED and the cell, and the thermal capability of the rest, ultimately leading to consumer dissatisfaction, warranty claims, reputational damage, if not addressed.

It has to be tuned, subjectively. But if you use a TK derived firmware, you can always change it to suit your own preference, if you take the trouble to learn how.

Frankly, you might be better off using modes. I do, after having given ramping a good shot. Which also allows me to have a pretty good idea of run-time at each level, which is important to me, and at what level the torch is going to turn on at..

Then there are the actual characteristics of the LEDs, which are all different. We have a couple of experts who do their best to measure them quantifiably, but manufacturers have to source what is available, which may be very different.

Then there is the subjective discussion based on no data, except observations such as “I like it. I see a hint of green. I cannot tolerate any hint of green. It is nice and rosy, creamy white, too cold, too warm, Goldilocks’ bears wouldn’t eat it. I expected a miracle gazillion lumens but only got what was obvious from a few minutes research of e.g. Maukka and Djozz test results, etc.

And in each torch design, the effects of e.g. good, or poor thermal management, and ambient temperature, and driver design, component selection, even things as seemingly simple as springs, will alter the actual response of the LEDS, brightness, tint shift, etc.

Which is what makes it interesting.

Ultimately you can only use your own eyes (all different) and decide what you like, subjectively. This is not a subject where numbers count for much at-all, no matter how tempted you are to try to put things into neat little boxes, and insist on asking questions such as “what is the best … I must have the best … and the brightest … I want lumen numbers only, because I don’t understand what candelas are and just like simple numbers, … only the best bin is good enough (all the rest should be binned) but I don’t want to pay any more, I won’t buy it unless I have a discount code, and I want it now, why don’t I already have it, It must be below the BBL, such discussion is frankly Wank.”

Otherwise it is worthless, e.g. the usual “my tracking number isn’t working, I’m going to file a PayPal complaint and get my money back, I will never trust this outfit again, etc. etc.”

It’s hardly a matter of life and death, but it is a livelihood for the suppliers who make these esoteric things for us, but don’t quite perform as well and in a timely matter, nor communicate as some would expect, it is a different culture, for individuals particularly so.So cut them some slack. Otherwise we’d still be thinking that a Maglite was the height of sophistication, and something to aspire to owning.

Or that crude FET+n drivers derived from Comfychair’s great Nanjg mods, back in the day, are still the bees knees.

Rant over, but really, this is just a torch that deserves to do well, despite the sniping and negativity. Whilst being realistic about what is realistically possible, and delivering.

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My PL47 just hit the USA. 17TRACK showed it as not even received from the seller on the China end all this time. This is how bad overseas tracking is. You have to be patient. Then there’s the slow cargo ship that got caught in a big storm, my flashlight went overboard, got swallowed by a kracken, he shat it out, a dolphin found it and used it to light his way to Nova Scotia, he passed it to some Canadian geese who used it to light their way flying to Florida for the Winter, they dropped it (butterfingers) over the harbor in NYC, it landed on a pimp who traded it for some rock candy with a lady who also works at a mail sorting center, it then fell out of her pocket and got scanned into the USPS shipping system and now I have some tracking finally. Whew. Look at the positive, at least it’s tested as working Big Smile

Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義

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Tete wrote:
Received my black neutral XP-L Hi today and after all the negativies I’ve read all over here are my first impressions:

-anodising is flawless (time will tell for how long)
-yes, the supplied headband is crap, but all my other headlamp’s bands seems to work just fine, so no worries
-it feels a bit headheavy, but I guess that’s acceptable too, since it wasn’t intended as a headlamp
-UI seems good and since it’s programmable, it should satisfy most
-the 18650-adapter seems to do its job nicely, since I’m still waiting for my 40T’s to arrive and my only 21700 (Wuben), is about 1 cm too long
-tail magnet is so weak, it won’t hold the lamp anywhere

I’m yet to test it outside, but so far it looks nice. Especially considering the price…
I guess I now can order another FireFlies, I’m just trying to decide will it be another PL47 or the E07…

Go for a e07 and use 40t.
Pl47 should be fine with 18650.

gkushev
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Just received mine. At first it worked fine, but after I unscrewed battery tube and screwed it back, flashlight stared on turbo and can’t be turned off. The only way to turn it off is to unscrew tail cap. I tested with LG 21700 which i got with the light and Sanyo GA with the adapter.
Any idea why is wrong with it?

ToyKeeper
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JordanZHP wrote:
Question: My PL47 is at default setting, when I ramp up it stops short of turbo and I must double click for max brightness, I’m assuming this is as intended and I’m ok with that. Aprox what % of max brightness (turbo) is the top of the default ramping? 50%? 75%?

It’s in the PL47 config file, but if I recall correctly I think the default ceiling is set to ramp level 120 of 150. And I think that works out to about a 30% to 50% of the full lumen output, but with all the nonlinear response curves involved it’s hard to say exactly without measuring.

ToyKeeper
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gkushev wrote:
Just received mine. At first it worked fine, but after I unscrewed battery tube and screwed it back, flashlight stared on turbo and can’t be turned off. The only way to turn it off is to unscrew tail cap. I tested with LG 21700 which i got with the light and Sanyo GA with the adapter. Any idea why is wrong with it?

If a light is in full turbo any time power is connected, that usually indicates a short somewhere, allowing current to bypass the driver and go straight to the LEDs.

gkushev
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That makes sense, I guess I should contact Fireflies then.
Thanks for the fast response ToyKeeper .

Newlumen
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As you guys know, skylumen have two dead pl47. FYI

aginthelaw
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Newlumen wrote:
As you guys know, skylumen have two dead pl47. FYI

Any details posted about that somewhere?

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

Newlumen
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aginthelaw wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
As you guys know, skylumen have two dead pl47. FYI

Any details posted about that somewhere?

It may or may not posted.. I communicate with him on the Facebook messenger.

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I bought the XPL Hi V2 3A 5000K Neutral White. I’ve been reading about some battery restrictions for the Nichia 219B. Other than some of the size issues are there any amp issues? Can I use an EFEST 35A for example?

freeme
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Finally received my lights. After being held in my local postage service for a week. 

©freemex1thedeals.com

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cloggy wrote:
When I unscrew the battery tube a little to lock out the light a very brief and tiny red flash occurs from something near the centre of the lens. Can anyone explain this phenomenon?

Had that same feeling too! Red led ?

Want DC-fix? PM me!

Kalpn
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aginthelaw wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
As you guys know, skylumen have two dead pl47. FYI

Any details posted about that somewhere?

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64113?page=6

post #192

ToyKeeper
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The red light in the center is a warning that the voltage is low.

It happens when unscrewing the light because, for a very brief moment, the voltage passes through the “low” range before it hits zero.

It also happens when the battery is genuinely low.

Lithium
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Nice feature!

Want DC-fix? PM me!

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I just got my pl47 219b. I am not happy with it. I put 10 amp 18650 and the light goes straight to blinking mode.

I can’t switch modes.. it stay on low..

How can I reset to factory ramping mode?

BOMBAY
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did you tighten the rear cap well?

Newlumen
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My other pl47 xpl hi 5000k is working fine…

This pl47 219b is no good.. aux was off from the factory.. i click 7 times to turn it on..

When i press the button, th aux will turn off.. then the low mode came on. Then the light switch modes by itself…

Junk junk junk

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Here is the video for the pl47 219b. Is my pl47 defective ?

https://youtu.be/P0xMlM_aiNE

BOMBAY
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mine had a low mode and it was blinking because it did not have good contact. I have to tighten the rear cap quite strongly. your apparently has a more serious problem.

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Yes.. i have tighten the tailcap good.. the light start blinking every 10 seconds..

I will contact FF.

SKV89
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It gets brighter on its own. Wonder if it is in some kind of test mode. Maybe Toykeeper might know?

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