6th Annual Scratch Made Light Contest - Flashy Mike's machined project

45 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany
6th Annual Scratch Made Light Contest - Flashy Mike's machined project

Update: newest renders here!

Ok, let me just throw my hat into the ring for the first time. Don’t know yet if this is a good idea since it’s pretty uncertain whether I’ll finish this project at all – perhaps because it’s not feasible due to the limited tools I own, because of lack of time or money or just because of missing skills.

Two events happened in the near past: I’ve been camping with wife and kids (first time after decades) – and I got my first 3d printer.
During camping I missed a lantern which I could place on the camping table, e. g. for reading or playing games. I don’t like the common camping lights since they are still too bright in the center which causes dazzling, I’m pretty sensitive to that. Whenever possible I prefer indirect lighting.

I did some rough tests with my Q8 and some ugly parts printed with my new 3d printer and the result turned out pretty well.

So the following project idea grew in my mind. This sketches are pretty rough, quickly created with Tinkercad. Lots of details are still missing.


Some (intended) technical facts:
- 3 white LEDs and 3 red or orange LEDs arranged in a circle, pointing to the retractable reflection shield on top of the light.
- powered by 2 protected 18650 cells,
- probably USB charging.

Casing will be 3d printed, so I’m joining the machined category, I guess. There is a copper or aluminium disk in the middle of the casing which protrudes a couple of millimeters to help spread the heat – which is hopefully not too much since this light will not be driven hard. As white LEDs I intend to use 3 of the beautiful Nichia 219B out of my hopefully soon arriving ROT66 (I have a special idea for the ROT66 where I don’t need all of these LEDs). Don’t know yet if I finally add the 3 color LEDs but I think it will be nice to mix them with the white LEDs for a comfortable tint in the night or to simulate candle flicker. I could even use XM-L RGBW LEDs which enables me to add disco light (my son loves this idea).

The casing will probably be made of ABS filament, since it’s more resistant to heat than PLA and can be sanded easily to achieve a smoother surface. Have seen the planned telescope system for the reflection shield in my selfie stick, hopefully I’ll get this working with my 3d printer as well. Mounting points are planned for top and bottom of the casing, in order to hang this lantern to the ceiling. If possible I’ll make the reflection shield removable in order to have the option of direct lighting when required. Don’t know yet if I’ll add magnets since I probably don’t have a usage case for them.

The LED boards will be mounted to the metal disc, glued or soldered, don’t know yet. Still wondering if I’ll use reflectors (have a couple of spare S2+ reflectors left after triple mods) or optics. Probably narrow optics are better since I want as much light as possible to hit the reflection shield. They shall sit pretty deep in the casing, I don’t want to see direct light from the LEDs from the side.

The reflection shield will probably be kind of a cone in order to spread the light around. Unfortunately it has – when 3d printed – steps which negate the intended purpose since their surface mostly has a right angle to the beam. I might sand this cone (or smoothen it with acetone) and cover it with reflection paint for better light distribution.

If I find the time I might even design a fitting driver board, otherwise I’ll just use one of my existing ones.

Finally I have another nice gimmick in my mind for this lantern which I’ll reveal later when I know for sure it will be realized.

Edited by: Flashy Mike on 10/18/2018 - 09:31
Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

Reserved

CRX
CRX's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 53 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 2775
Location: Scotland

Looks interesting, I hope you do get it made in time Thumbs Up

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 25 min 20 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 2531
Location: Portugal

Subscribed Wink
And don’t forget to PM =the= for your thread to be added to the contest!
Good work Thumbs Up

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior  / OTR M1

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

DavidEF
DavidEF's picture
Online
Last seen: 8 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 06/05/2014 - 06:00
Posts: 6149
Location: Salisbury, North Carolina, USA

Nice idea! This will be a very unique lantern for table-top lighting!

Here’s an idea: Do you really want to make everything 3D printed? You maybe could use a piece of aluminum to make the reflector cone. If you can find a thick enough piece of Aluminum plate or bushing/washer, you could drill a center hole (if using plate), put a bolt through, and spin it on a hand drill held down with clamps. Then file the cone shape with a hand file while it spins. After, maybe you could 3D print something to plug the hole that will also be the hanger for the top.

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Online
Last seen: 13 min 21 sec ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 634
Location: Netherlands

Good luck Mike! What printer do you have?

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

DavidEF wrote:
Nice idea! This will be a very unique lantern for table-top lighting!

Here’s an idea: Do you really want to make everything 3D printed? You maybe could use a piece of aluminum to make the reflector cone. If you can find a thick enough piece of Aluminum plate or bushing/washer, you could drill a center hole (if using plate), put a bolt through, and spin it on a hand drill held down with clamps. Then file the cone shape with a hand file while it spins. After, maybe you could 3D print something to plug the hole that will also be the hanger for the top.

We are living in a flat, unfortunately without a dedicated room which is suitable for metal working. Neighbours won’t like me using machines here, and I won’t like the cuttings all over my room.
Apart from that, I really like the idea to use as much 3d printed parts as possible, as a proof of concept.

Btw., I don’t see an advantage in using aluminium for the reflection shield. I need diffuse reflection, just like the ceiling of my room, and the aluminium won’t be much better for this purpose, I guess. It mainly adds weight.

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

Geuzzz wrote:
Good luck Mike! What printer do you have?
Its a Creality3D Ender-2:
https://www.creality3d.cn/ender-2-p00093p1.html

A very nice device, small, mostly prebuilt and with a reasonable price tag. I like it a lot, did some improvements meanwhile. The little thing is printing all the day …

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 22 min 2 sec ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 12386
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Whether you finish in time or not to me doesn’t matter.
I was looking at your pictures thinking they looked pretty good when I read they are pretty rough. I’d like to see your good sketches. Smile
All the best for the build and the surprise.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

DavidEF
DavidEF's picture
Online
Last seen: 8 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 06/05/2014 - 06:00
Posts: 6149
Location: Salisbury, North Carolina, USA

Flashy Mike wrote:
We are living in a flat, unfortunately without a dedicated room which is suitable for metal working. Neighbours won’t like me using machines here, and I won’t like the cuttings all over my room.
Apart from that, I really like the idea to use as much 3d printed parts as possible, as a proof of concept.

Btw., I don’t see an advantage in using aluminium for the reflection shield. I need diffuse reflection, just like the ceiling of my room, and the aluminium won’t be much better for this purpose, I guess. It mainly adds weight.


Well, my thought was that you might want as much reflection as possible, even if (or especially if) it is diffuse. But I understand your limits on machine noise and dust/debris. It should work well enough with the reflective paint I think. I’m looking forward to seeing your build.

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

CNCman
CNCman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/07/2018 - 10:10
Posts: 232
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast

“ Flashy Mike “
Nice entry idea Thumbs Up
You may want to consider Chrome MonoKote http://www.monokote.com/metallic.html
You can heat shrink it tight on the cone for reflection. I used this Monokote when making RC Planes with my son yrs ago. Use a light heat gun to shrink it tight after super gluing it down around the edges.

Beer

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Good Intentions are no guarantee for Good Results.

thijsco19
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 23 min ago
Joined: 12/14/2012 - 16:18
Posts: 1247
Location: Nearby Rotterdam, the Netherlands

Flashy Mike wrote:
Geuzzz wrote:
Good luck Mike! What printer do you have?
Its a Creality3D Ender-2:
https://www.creality3d.cn/ender-2-p00093p1.html

A very nice device, small, mostly prebuilt and with a reasonable price tag. I like it a lot, did some improvements meanwhile. The little thing is printing all the day …


I have the same printer, indeed a nice and small device. What improvements did you do? Lately I installed a E3D V6 clone on mine together with a firmware upgrade to the latest marlin, have not printed a lot after the change but the few prints I did came out great.
Also did some smaller upgrades like belt tensioners, filament guide and a tilted lcd mount.

Do have to say that I kinda expected a little bit better print quality out of the box after seeing many reviews. But I do like this small machine!

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

thijsco19 wrote:
I have the same printer, indeed a nice and small device. What improvements did you do?
Up to now only the simple ones, like filement guide, silent fans for board and hotend. Designed and printed a small plate for the bottom of the hot end to stop the fan blowing partly onto the printed object (when using ABS). Designed and printed a simple filament roll holder since the filement string had too much tension when pulled from the holder on top of the Z-Axis.
Haven’t changed the power supply’s fan yet, since it was a too tight fit with the ordered silent 20mm fan (stock one is 15mm). Still looking for a fitting silent 60×60×15 fan with suffizient flow.

Got the green ABS for the lantern yesterday, currently searching for the best slicer settings.

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

CNCman wrote:
You may want to consider Chrome MonoKote http://www.monokote.com/metallic.html
You can heat shrink it tight on the cone for reflection. I used this Monokote when making RC Planes with my son yrs ago. Use a light heat gun to shrink it tight after super gluing it down around the edges.
Looks interesting. I considered making the cone of two parts anyway, so I could hide the glued foil around the edges with a flat plate on top.
FmC
FmC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 11 min ago
Joined: 03/31/2013 - 05:23
Posts: 2085
Location: Brisbane, AU

Good luck with the build, Flashy Mike Thumbs UpBeer

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

Unfortunately I haven’t done much for this build in the last days but I got more familiar with 3D design and printing. I created my first designs with Tinkercad which is great for beginners but lacks features for advanced designers. So I downloaded Fusion360 which is more capable. As in other products of this company I had my problems with the user interface but was able to create my first design after an evening (and after lots of grumbling and google search).

To learn more about the capabilities of my printer – and in order to know what I can do in my camping lantern design – I designed and printed a couple of screws and bolts in different sizes. Turned out surprisingly well, the smallest one in this picture is M3!

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

First prototype of the mechanism for the rectractable reflector. The thinner component will be screwed at the top end into the reflector. Prototype is shorter than planned for the final build in order to save filament and time during testing. Perhaps I’ll add one more segment if necessary. Currently printed with PLA, probably will be made of green ABS for final build.

pinkpanda3310
pinkpanda3310's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 12/28/2013 - 08:45
Posts: 1623
Location: Perth

Can’t see 2 of the pics but looks like you’re making progress Thumbs Up

djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 9 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 13335
Location: Amsterdam

Nice project, the first contest entry as I remember that will heavily lean on 3D printing Thumbs Up

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Can’t see 2 of the pics but looks like you’re making progress Thumbs Up
Which of the pics can you see? There is a green rendering, and 2 fotos with orange parts, one of the fotos with 2 separate components. I’m using google fotos for this pics and there might be a problem with links.
raccoon city
raccoon city's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 56 sec ago
Joined: 10/06/2010 - 02:35
Posts: 11190
Location: रॅकून सिटी Palm Desert CA USA

On my laptop I can see all the pics.

On my desktop, this is what I see:

missing_pics

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

Thanks! I guess I found the problem, all 3 pictures visible now after reload?

raccoon city
raccoon city's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 56 sec ago
Joined: 10/06/2010 - 02:35
Posts: 11190
Location: रॅकून सिटी Palm Desert CA USA

Yes, visible for me.

electricjelly
electricjelly's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 7 hours ago
Joined: 08/23/2012 - 03:39
Posts: 443
Location: Los Angeles

Great ideas. One of these day’s I’ll get me a 3d printer. It’ll be fun watching what you can do with yours.

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

electricjelly wrote:
One of these day’s I’ll get me a 3d printer.
Strongly recommended!
Its kind of zen watching the printer.
Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

A better approach for the retractable reflector, I guess. This one can lock at any height and only needs about a quarter turn for locking.
The outmost tube represents the casing, so only the inner 2 tubes make the extendible part (for about 9 cm currently). The white dot in the center of the printed inner tube are the remaining threads of a printed M3 screw, made of PLA, which I broke during tests. Not unexpectedly, though.

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

Made progress with design. The upper half of the casing, the retractable reflector and the bottom plate are almost finished and printable, the lower half of the casing still requires some work in the inside for the electronics compartment. Here are some new renders, size of this light is 10.2 cm in diameter with a height of 5.6 cm (closed). I consider this light a pretty compact camping lantern.


MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 25 min 20 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 2531
Location: Portugal

It’s looking good Wink

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior  / OTR M1

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1047
Location: Germany

Updated electrical specifications:

I’ll probably use three SST-20 3000K LEDs. They should produce a nice warm illumination, so I discarded the idea of additional red LEDs. The LEDs sit in spare Convoy S2+ reflectors which I have lying around.
The switch is a reverse clicky to avoid current drain, since this light might not be used most of the year.
Driver will probably use 8 or 9 AMC 7135. The copper or aluminium plate in the middle of the lantern protrudes 3 mm, this allows a surface area of about 9 square centimeters exposed to the air. Hope this is sufficient cooling for 3 amps with this LEDs. If not I still can use less 7135.

I’m still thinking about the charging modul. I would like to use USB-C but I haven’t found a reliable source.
And I need a rubber cap for the cutout of this charging module, haven’t found any source yet. I don’t even know the proper english term for this component.

CRX
CRX's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 53 sec ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 2775
Location: Scotland

Looks great Thumbs Up

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 7 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 1721
Location: Canada

@Flashy Mike, have you thought about using a TP5100 with a USB-c female breakout board like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY-24pin-USB-C-USB-3-1-Type-C-Male-Fema...

This would work very well for charging the lantern, as it is more efficient that the TP4056, supports higher charging voltages, and would work with a USB-C female breakout board without any trouble since the current draw is predetermined.

For a rubber gasket/O-ring, I do not know though. I’ll have to do more research on the subject.

Pages