6th Annual Scratch Made Light Contest - Flashy Mike's machined project

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Cereal_killer
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Be careful with that BLE module, I had one I was trying to hook up to my laptop (to rename and setup with AT commands) and I powered the board up from a li-ion battery (that wasn’t even full) and the module outputted a huge spike on the 5v line and killed my laptops USB circuitry. I looked it up and that computer had USB over-voltage protection to 13.5v so the pulse must of been higher than that!

It works fine in operation but the only way I configure them anymore (config requires AT commands over its UART) is by hooking them up threw a powered USB 3.0 hub to protect my [new] computer

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Flashy Mike
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Not good. Are you talking about exactly this module (WT51822-S4AT)? I know the NRF51 has a buck DC-DC converter on board but there must be a serious hardware flaw in the NRF chip to make this happen. How do you know it was an excess voltage spike?
Btw., I only reconfigured this module once with AT commands but it didn’t remember the new settings after power cycling. Have to try another module.

Edit:
Any special reason why you powered the module externally? I used a common USB serial adapter which supplies Vcc by itself.

chadvone
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Very cool.

MRsDNF
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This looks like black magic to me. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Cereal_killer
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Yes same module, I picked it cause I like Nordic semi RF stuff but not like the chip manufacturer has anything to do with these type of Chinese modules… They don’t have any clue, they just build these things based off the recommended best-practice circuit diagram in the Nordic datasheet and slap the cheapest components available on the dang things. Live and learn.

It was in a laptop and when it happened the entire USB bus died including the built in track pad which is technically a USB device. Upon getting the new main board for it I followed the old ones USB traces to a pair of cracked in half zener diodes.

Flashy Mike wrote:
Edit: Any special reason why you powered the module externally? I used a common USB serial adapter which supplies Vcc by itself.

Cause I like doing things the hard way I guess lol. I was having trouble establishing a connection with it [AT session] and one suggestion was to power the board on its own to allow it to be running then trigger a reset and try again but the moment I triggered the reset the spike happened.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Flashy Mike
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Cut this charger module in 2 parts:

The left part will be glued in to provide water protection.

And I made some first test prints with the ASB filement which I’ll finally use.
This is a small part of the top reflector. As you can see the small text printed on the outside does not work out well, so it will be omitted. My printer is currently printing the complete shell of the reflector, according to the slicer software it will last 4 hours.

Another point to improve is this half trapecoidal groove which I designed to take an o-ring. This picture shows a test print of a section of the lower housing, which has to be printed top down. This means the bottom of the groove is actually printed on top, called “bridging”. This didn’t turn out well probably because its so close to the edge. I tried to cure with a knife but this didn’t work out well either. Finally I used a 1mm ball point mill bit by hand (after I took this picture), this might work. Have to be careful. The remaining o-ring grooves will be printed bottom down which shouldn’t cause problems.

Now to the pros of the test prints. The knurling turned out pretty well, also the cut out for the USB connector what I didn’t expect since the “roof” of this cut out is also printed with “bridging”.

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Interesting stuff Thumbs Up
Must be fun watching those printers go.

Flashy Mike
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CRX wrote:
Interesting stuff Thumbs Up
Must be fun watching those printers go.
Yeah, its relaxing – particularly that the machine is doing my work. Big Smile
When printing the knurling the printer is almost “singing”. I have even seen a video where someone made his printer play the star wars theme.
Flashy Mike
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Have the first bigger parts printed: the reflector shell and the reflector which will be glued together later. Worked out not too bad but needs more sanding. Unfortunately there is a problem with the dimensional accuracy of my printer (or perhaps the slicer software): the outer diameters of discs are pretty exact but the inner diameters of circular holes are too small. The white reflector component is supposed to fit into the cutout of the green shell but the inner diameter of the cutout is almost 1 mm too small. Had to decrease the diameter of the reflector with a big scissors and some sanding afterwards. Perhaps I’ll print it one more time with smaller dimensions.



MRsDNF
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The printing is an artwork in itself. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Flashy Mike
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Experienced some adversities lately:

1.) Ordered parts not showing up (LEDs, o-rings, magnets …)

2.) My 3d printer shows imperfections on surfaces. I guess the nozzle is somewhat damaged, ordered new ones yesterday. Hopefully they’ll show up tomorrow.

3.) Design flaw at the joint where reflector shell and telescope stick meet. Broke because its too weak. Did a redesign yesterday, new component is currently printing.

Flashy Mike
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On the other hand: hardware, firmware and the android app I created for remote control are completed and working flawlessly:

Flashy Mike
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This is the new reflector shell and telescope stick design, I guess its ok now:

View from the top. Don’t mind the rough surface and edges, will be sanded later.

CRX
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Thumbs Up
MtnDon
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Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

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DavidEF
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Wow. An Android app. For a scratch build lantern. Shocked

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

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Lots of ‘out of the box thinking’ on this build. Kudos Beer

Flashy Mike
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DavidEF wrote:
Wow. An Android app. For a scratch build lantern. Shocked
Well, actually this app is not completely built from the scratch, luckily I was able to re-use some code from former projects. I built other remote controlled devices in the past, for instance RGB light strips and this LEGO-Arduino-Hybrid (built with my little son) with tilt control and telemetry which you can see in the following images, and even a flashlight. I have a bluetooth (not LE) remote controllable and programmable Q8 for about a year which I haven’t presented in the modding thread yet since I wasn’t familiar with video publishing that time. Will do this later and of course I will also show a video of this contest light working remote controlled.
The most work for this new app made the Bluetooth LE support which was new to me. Programming interface is different to standard bluetooth, its not well documented and not working consistent on different devices. But I got it right meanwhile and the reward is a pretty low power consumption: in light-off state but sending telemetry data once per second and being ready-to-receive all the time its only about 2.5 milli amperes. So the 2 cells in this lantern allow for more than 2 months of being ready to receive!


FmC
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This is looking great Thumbs Up

I’m glad I’m not the only one who’s part’s didn’t arrive when expected Tired

MtnDon
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I like the LEGO-Arduino-Hybrid truck too!! Thumbs Up

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DavidEF
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MtnDon wrote:
I like the LEGO-Arduino-Hybrid truck too!! Thumbs Up

If he’d put headlights on it, he could make one of those for the contest. I would love to watch that build progress! Big Smile

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

Flashy Mike
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Would this qualify?

Flashy Mike
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Problems with my printer Angry
The print bed is hold and led by 3 rubber wheels running horizontally in aluminium V-profiles. At least one of the wheels is wanderning on its bearing which causes bad prints. This particularly happens with this ABS prints that require a print bed temperature of at least 100°C, which also warms up the wheels. As I read in a german 3d print forum this might be a design flaw in the wheel construction. Don’t know if I can fix the wheel with some super glue since I have to disassemble and re-assemble the whole thing. Haven’t found a fast source for replacement wheels up to now.

Flashy Mike
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Well, this fix appears too easy, I don’t dare to trust the outcome yet.
I disassembled the wheel. It actually contains 2 bearings which are separated by a ridge in the rubber wheel with a width of 0.8 mm – and an additional small washer between the bearings with a thickness of 1.0 mm. So pressing the bearings together with the washer in between with screw and nut there is still 0.2 mm left for the rubber wheel to move, which results in a pretty large height difference at the edges of the print bed Facepalm . I consider this a design flaw!

I’m not very gifted with hand crafting skills but I followed many of CRX’s handmade builds Big Smile . So I was confident to solve this problem. Sanded the small washer down to a thickness of also 0.8 mm by hand and assembled all parts. And wouldn’t you believe it – the print bed mount looks very solid now. The next bigger component is currently printing.

The other wheels (9 in total) look good so far but I should fix them also later, I guess.

CRX
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Glad I could help Big Smile
Hope it stays fixed, for the build at least Thumbs Up

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Great fix! As CRX said, I hope it stays fixed.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

FmC
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Print some new wheels whilst it’s working well…. Innocent

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I’m struggling with the prints. The outside of the lower casing – printed in ABS during about 10 hours – looks fine (the small 0.2 mm layer on top for better print bed adhesion is supposed to be sanded down). The inside is bad though. Wall separation everywhere, even the threads for the bottom plate ripped of partially. Not usable, I guess. Angry
I’m expecting new PTG filament today, its supposed to provide better layer bonding. Haven’t used PETG yet, I hope i can handle it without too many problems, since contest time expires.
And I’m still waiting for LEDs, magnets and o-rings from China.


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Sad Especially sad to have that happen after having to wait 10 hours for the printing to complete. At least when I make an error cutting wood I know about it right away. I hope the new stuff works better.

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Flashy Mike
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So do I. Got it this afternoon, made some test prints, and printing of the lower housing with this new PETG is currently in progress. Looks good so far but at that stage the ABS print did also look good. Anyway, I redesigned the housing to print it faster (e. g. got rid of the knurling and made thinner walls) so it should be done after 5 hours at max.

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