GB Clone Offically "SOLD OUT" 10/21/18 XPL HI 1300LM Focusing AKA Cometa 2016

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khas
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The flashlight was listed with free standard shipping for DKK 103.42 when I made my order, later that day I got an e-mail where they requested DKK 109.75 additional shipping fee.

At the time I made my order the most expensive shipping was EMS for DKK 61.77. They never gave me answer why it would cost so much to ship a single flashlight without batteries, every time I sent an e-mail asking for an explanation they kept sending the same e-mail asking for DKK 109.75 until the flashlight was out of stock.

But at least : “We apologize for any inconvenience caused by this issue”
everydaysurvivalgear
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Okay i am tripper! The disc that holds the LED in place is the same on mine as the new ones!

Only difference is the grounding protection in the battery tube that sits over the pill and the tail cap is brighter on the newer Cometa’s .

This is the included 26650
!20180930_012310_HDR!

Left side is the new Cometa and Right side is my original
!20180930_012508!

I do have some tape on my original but my solders are flat so its not needed its more of a just in case
!20180930_012629!

Barkuti
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:

This is the included 26650

!

20180930_012310_HDR

!

Left side is the new Cometa and Right side is my original

!

20180930_012508

Vappower 5200mAh 20A 10A outline @ E-CigaretteForum

Related review: Imren Purple 22A 5500mAh 26650 Bench Test Results...only a 10A/5200mAh battery!

 

What are the above (plastic?) discs? Insulating discs for the cell's head with a hole for some protruding spring, cap or whatever in the driver? Why additional tape?

 

Cheers Party 

Rusty
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Hmmmm, my 2 arrived today; charged the batteries and gave one a try (after ensuring no shorting issues) and after switching on briefly, it now no longer works.

Investigated and it seems that both springs have compressed, presumably from overheating Tired the battery rattles back and forth due to no spring tension.

I will double check the potential shorting points, but suspect both springs are probably toast now; does anybody know a good source for replacements. that can handle a little current?

Rusty
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Barkuti wrote:

What are the above (plastic?) discs? Insulating discs for the cell’s head with a hole for some protruding spring, cap or whatever in the driver? Why additional tape?


 


Cheers Party 

That’s the anodised aluminium front cover for the driver. the hole is for the LED to poke through. Additional tape is to stop the solder points on the LED scratching through the anodising and causing shorts.

KawiBoy1428
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So it begins……. Facepalm

Wonder if they fixed the sloppy driver pocket?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

Mr.Scott
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Rusty wrote:

I will double check the potential shorting points, but suspect both springs are probably toast now; does anybody know a good source for replacements. that can handle a little current?

BlueSwordM is running a group buy for Very High Current Beryllium Copper springs.

All the large springs are taken, but there are small springs left. (Don’t know what size is in this light.) I believe Blue Sword M said he may be ordering more large springs at some point.
TheOnlyDocc
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But if you do not solve the shorting issue stronger springs are not the solution! Its like bridging a fuse with a massive copper bar. Now the spring has worked as a fuse and stopped the short. A bigger spring would allow higher current if you short it again.

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everydaysurvivalgear
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The disc is what holds the LED in place. It is made from anodized aluminum and was causing shorts because of the bad soldering jobs on some lights.

Rusty
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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
But if you do not solve the shorting issue stronger springs are not the solution! Its like bridging a fuse with a massive copper bar. Now the spring has worked as a fuse and stopped the short. A bigger spring would allow higher current if you short it again.

Appreciate the advice, but I’m acutely aware that overcurrent has heated and ruined the springs; good to know they work as a crude protective device though, just need to source suitable replacements now.

Think I found the source of the short after disassembling the entire light in order that to reassemble, testing at every stage of disassembly and reassembly for shorts, I spotted a large split in the wire to the LED, right at the point where it bends through the pill:

Sleeved the split wire, reassembled everything (actually used some thermal paste as opposed to the sniff of the barmaids apron that was used originally), Kapton tape on the top of everything and it works again, to a fashion. Not sure if brainbox might’ve fried as it doesn’t seem to respond quite as it should, though the springs definitely need replacing before I can look into it further Smile

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Aha, the holes in the pill for the wires have sharp edges too..
So basically this light has to be disassembled completely and all parts have to be checked and taken care of, and then you can reassemble the light.
Yeah, sounds like my hobby. Smile
I think the loose head can be fixed too by using fatter O-rings.
Looking forward to receiving this light.

Q

L4M4
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Jerommel wrote:
So basically this light has to be disassembled completely and all parts have to be checked and taken care of, and then you can reassemble the light.

Except for Emisars or BLF-Lights, that is what most of us do anyway, I guess Big Smile

RobertB
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
RobertB wrote:
everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
Okay i got my two today a saturday weird lol. They are fixed or at least better than my original.
The centering disc that holds the led down is milled out where the led wire sit making scratching of the anodized surface harder you have a few mm of clearance now. The battery tube ground has a disc over it for the shorting issue there.

I got the 26650 with my two cometas.

Still has the AR coated lens.

Seems better then my original but the XPLHI needs to go the die looks almost twice the size of my modded Cometa using the XPG2.

Not that it effected anything, but is the head still loose. Rattle when you shake the light back and forth?

Yea the head still rattles but that’s fairly standard for this style zoomie. Could probably place an O-ring in there.

From what I hear, the head on the Jaxman Z1 doesn’t rattle.

Rusty
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Ok, driver in my first one is seriously compromised; now only operates in 3 modes L/L/M – compared to the fully operating one.

Not sure I can be bothered with challenging BG over the issue, but wondered if anybody could point me to a good replacement driver that would work with this setup?

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Rusty wrote:
Ok, driver in my first one is seriously compromised; now only operates in 3 modes L/L/M – compared to the fully operating one.

Not sure I can be bothered with challenging BG over the issue, but wondered if anybody could point me to a good replacement driver that would work with this setup?

Don’t quite remember, but wasn’t it the A6 driver they were putting in these?

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Rusty wrote:

Not sure I can be bothered with challenging BG over the issue, but wondered if anybody could point me to a good replacement driver that would work with this setup?

Actual driver boot is ∅22mm like Jaxman Z1, doesn't it? You could go Kaidomain's H2-C boost driver plus XHP35 HI. Sense resistor is 1206 imperial units, 75mV sense, thus add an R100 over the stock R050 for up to 2.25A driving current. More info here: Buck and Boost Drivers, Testing, Modding, and Discussion (Pic Heavy)

 

Cheers Party 

djozz
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No, I would not bother BG with issues with this one. We knew that this is the Cometa with known issues and we are getting them cheap because of that. See it as a wonderful host and that you have to look over every part to get it right.

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L4M4 wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
So basically this light has to be disassembled completely and all parts have to be checked and taken care of, and then you can reassemble the light.
Except for Emisars or BLF-Lights, that is what most of us do anyway, I guess Big Smile
As long as they’re not glued shut. Facepalm

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Its got the upgraded BLF driver from the X6 driver.

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I was going to put an SST4O in mine but the hole is to small for the LED. So i will drill the hole out with a 5mm drill bit see how i go.

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I’m amazed at you guyz
doing this all over again
at whatever price

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chinooker wrote:
I’m amazed at you guyz
doing this all over again
at whatever price

I was never in the Cometa group buy. And this time it is not about receiving a outoftheboxperfect flashlight but about great material for a nice DIY project for little money.
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The Jaxman Z1 is using a 22mm driver but i heard that the Cometa is using a 17mm driver.
Can someone confirm the driver size from the currently sold Cometa?

@chinooker
I did not bought in the Groupbuy. But at this price i could not pass! It is still cheap if you take it as a pure host.

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Can someone please list all "hot spots" one needs to look upon when disassemling the Cometa, i.e. all potential hazardous areas that might cause shorts? So far, I noted:

  • solder joints on LED aluminum board (potential for bad solder jobs)
  • sharp edges on the pill that might damage the insulation of wires
  • insulation disc on the rear side of the pill is crucial as the outer rim of the pill might cause shorts when in contact with the positive pole of the battery

Anything else?

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Received mine this morning, but no free gift (the 2×18650) only the 26650 in a bag. I’ll see how it stacks up against my modded Warsun X50, X65 and UF-1504 later. On first impressions, size wise, its a little more pocket friendly.

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My 18650s shipped separate by slower mail so keep an eye out.

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My “shipped” package (w/o cells) is still in the “label created” stage, ie, nothing was handed over yet.

The other (w/ cells) is still back-ordered.

Kinda interesting to see how this plays out. Big Smile

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Rusty
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Barkuti wrote:

Rusty wrote:

Not sure I can be bothered with challenging BG over the issue, but wondered if anybody could point me to a good replacement driver that would work with this setup?

Actual driver boot is ∅22mm like Jaxman Z1, doesn’t it? You could go Kaidomain’s H2-C boost driver plus XHP35 HI. Sense resistor is 1206 imperial units, 75mV sense, thus add an R100 over the stock R050 for up to 2.25A driving current. More info here: Buck and Boost Drivers, Testing, Modding, and Discussion (Pic Heavy)


 


Cheers Party 

Thank for the links Barkuti, looks like a good option I will order now.

Tested my working one for the first time last night and it’s pretty impressive in terms of throw Smile compared to my D1S and GT Mini, though I realise they are both much smaller and I’m not comparing apples with apples.

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Rusty wrote:

Thank for the links Barkuti, looks like a good option I will order now.

Tested my working one for the first time last night and it's pretty impressive in terms of throw Smile compared to my D1S and GT Mini, though I realise they are both much smaller and I'm not comparing apples with apples.

Please make sure first the Cometa can fit the driver. My reasoning is only a guess because it is a Jaxman Z1 based flashlight with the driver pocket reduced somehow to ∅17mm for the whatever driver it uses, and this is what caused cell shortcircuits when coupled with big headed 26650 cells, is this sort of right? This means you'll additionally fix this potential issue with a proper ∅22mm driver.

All in all, while more expensive the build should be nice. If you opt to drive the XHP35 hard it will be pulling more than 10A at the tail, hope the torch uses a good switch.

Good luck.

 

Cheers Smile 

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Yep 17mm driver you need to make space for the driver to fit. This is what actually caused the shorting issues originally it was meant to be a 20mm driver like the jaxman.

Also you will need to make the hole bigger in the LED retaining disc so it can fit a XHP50 in it. It only just fits the XPLHI as is.

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