Sofirn SP36, impressions of a sample

581 posts / 0 new
Last post
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10107
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Yokiamy wrote:
Nice to read you got it open that easy! did you use that bended bodkin, or what tool is it?

Yes, it is a Craftsman Pick, I have a full set.

Did it require much force? Did you need to heat up the light first? Did you need to push through the button hole? It’d be nice if there’s an easy way to get the driver out.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 17 hours 7 min ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12408
Location: LI NY

It was a while ago, but I believe I went thru the LED wire holes with a solder pick, poked the driver loose - no difficulties I recall, but I've done it this way many times on glued up drivers. Sometimes it needs light taps from a hammer, but the solder pick is not a very rigid tool - mine is a bit bent up from abuse over the years. In general, I always keep the solder pick to the outer edge of the driver to minimize potential damage. 99% of the time there's no damage, most of the time gentle force is enough.

 

Oops forgot - this was the light I had to use the heavy wire soldered to the brass ring and pull like crazy... Post #442: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1444634#comment-1444634

 

Yokiamy
Yokiamy's picture
Online
Last seen: 13 min 13 sec ago
Joined: 10/18/2016 - 15:47
Posts: 2049
Location: Netherlands
Tom E wrote:

It was a while ago, but I believe I went thru the LED wire holes with a solder pick, poked the driver loose – no difficulties I recall, but I’ve done it this way many times on glued up drivers. Sometimes it needs light taps from a hammer, but the solder pick is not a very rigid tool – mine is a bit bent up from abuse over the years. In general, I always keep the solder pick to the outer edge of the driver to minimize potential damage. 99% of the time there’s no damage, most of the time gentle force is enough.

I think you are referring to the SP33 now, since you cant really remove the reflector of the SP36 without damaging it, since it is screwed from below.
THIS was how you opened the SP36

  BLF

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 28 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3880
Location: The Motor City
ToyKeeper wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Yokiamy wrote:
Nice to read you got it open that easy! did you use that bended bodkin, or what tool is it?

Yes, it is a Craftsman Pick, I have a full set.

Did it require much force? Did you need to heat up the light first? Did you need to push through the button hole? It’d be nice if there’s an easy way to get the driver out.

Nope not really much force was needed, nor did I use any heat….
I removed the switch and pressed directly down as close to the driver ring as I could get, if you look between L- and L+ you can see the copper shinning thru the masking where the pick made contact. It didn’t take what I would call excessive force, even though I was pumped up for a fight!

First I pressed slow and steady I heard a faint pop, then during the second press it popped out cleanly. Lucky the driver wasn’t glued and then press fit, witnessed by the glue around the outside edge on the driver board, so initially the driver had to be kind of sloppy/loose to the diameter of the driver pocket. The glue couldn’t penetrate the ano and the single point of pressure peeled the two surfaces away from each other.

I thought about taking one of my long punches and striking it with my small brass hammer, but the angle was to drastic and didn’t want to take a chance of knocking something off the board, ripping the contacts off the board along with what ever SMD got ripped off and launched…I thought it thru and decided, it wasn’t an option after all.

You can see around the drivers face what glue was left behind on the driver shelf, it flicked off with out much resistance also. I have had better battles with pressed in drivers then what this one gave me really, I was totally surprised, shocked, ecstatic and relieved at how easy it was to be honest.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

mmalive
Offline
Last seen: 8 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 10/30/2017 - 16:56
Posts: 1163
Location: Earth

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Yokiamy wrote:
I am a bit disappointed in sofirn, i bought an SP36 almost 2 weeks ago on their AE store and it showed as ‘in stock’
Next day i received a tracking number, but until today no result, so shot them a message, their reply was, sorry the item was not in stock, we will ship as soon as we have it on stock…

@kawiboy, Nice to read you got it open that easy! did you use that bended bodkin, or what tool is it?


Yes, it is a Craftsman Pick, I have a full set. https://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-pc-hook-and-pick-set-with/p-0094163400...

Kawi, Similar set sold at Harbor Freight for $1.99

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 28 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3880
Location: The Motor City

mmalive wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Yokiamy wrote:
I am a bit disappointed in sofirn, i bought an SP36 almost 2 weeks ago on their AE store and it showed as ‘in stock’
Next day i received a tracking number, but until today no result, so shot them a message, their reply was, sorry the item was not in stock, we will ship as soon as we have it on stock…

@kawiboy, Nice to read you got it open that easy! did you use that bended bodkin, or what tool is it?


Yes, it is a Craftsman Pick, I have a full set. https://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-pc-hook-and-pick-set-with/p-0094163400...

Kawi, Similar set sold at Harbor Freight for $1.99


Check them out, hopefully, maybe, if your lucky, they are not soft, you don’t want them to bend, the good ones are Hardened, you have to use a diamond hone, finishing stone, grinder or sander disc/belt to sharpen them, a file will not do it effectively. The Craftsmen picks I have are old and are the hardened type, so I can use them as scribes to do layouts, quite happy with them all these 20+ years….that ad was just to give a visual of the set I have. So check them out and report back it’s only $2.00 bucks! Wink

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 8 min ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 946
Location: Germany - TLF

I have tried it similar but without a result. Which tool did you use to get the driver out? Can you make a picture?
I am thinking about bending a nail to use a hammer and the nail throu the switch hole.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 24 min 15 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 16181
Location: Amsterdam

Wieselflinkpro wrote:
I have tried it similar but without a result. Which tool did you use to get the driver out? Can you make a picture?
I am thinking about bending a nail to use a hammer and the nail throu the switch hole.

I did it this way, post #62 of this thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1395137#comment-1395137
Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 8 min ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 946
Location: Germany - TLF

djozz wrote:
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
I have tried it similar but without a result. Which tool did you use to get the driver out? Can you make a picture?
I am thinking about bending a nail to use a hammer and the nail throu the switch hole.

I did it this way, post #62 of this thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1395137#comment-1395137

Thanks, I knew your way. But this is too risky for me.

I wanted to ask Kawiboy, but I made it not very clear.

Now I did a second test with good result:
I used a nail and the driver popped out after the first hammering.

More pictures

Teaser Picture:

!{width:80%}https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/2019-03-29-4674_tlf.29743/full!...

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10107
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

It seems like it should also be possible to pull the driver out by putting a hook through the two middle holes in the driver and pulling, but I haven’t gotten that to work. Nothing thin enough to fit through those holes seems to be strong enough to work.

Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 8 min ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 946
Location: Germany - TLF

ToyKeeper wrote:
It seems like it should also be possible to pull the driver out by putting a hook through the two middle holes in the driver and pulling, but I haven’t gotten that to work.

Yes I was thinking about this too. And I had the same problems like you, finding something for this job.
ToyKeeper wrote:
Nothing thin enough to fit through those holes seems to be strong enough to work.

It have to be strong enough and deep enough.
The Driver is 2.5mm thick and the holes have a diameter of 0.8mm.
Perhaps it is possible to drill the holes a bit bigger. It seems that this holes are no vias. One is in the LED+/Bat+ area next to many vias and the other is at the LED- area next to the AMC7135.
Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 8 min ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 946
Location: Germany - TLF

From the “What did you mod today”-thread:

Changed the LEDs in my Sofirn SP36 to XP-L2 4000K 90CRI with perfect color rendering.

Lumenmeasurement with Sony VTC6 at startup:
- Before: 6350 Lumen
- bridged springs with AWG20: 6950 Lumen
- new XP-L2’s: 5950 Lumen




More pictures: https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/sofirn-sp36-blf-q8-mini....

Alen
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 14 min ago
Joined: 04/03/2012 - 08:26
Posts: 307
Location: Italy

There is in plain a 3x led Warm version without usb charging port?

Barry0892
Barry0892's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 49 min ago
Joined: 09/20/2014 - 03:45
Posts: 309

guys, sofirn shoot a video to show how to set step down time of SP36 NarsilM, please help check if it's correct.

It's too complex to me.....

 

 

 

Find FREE items on my timeline.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/barry.lee.984991

WhatsApp: +8615773183209 

Ilumenati
Ilumenati's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 01/07/2019 - 05:22
Posts: 82
Location: Pac NW

SP36 holster

I bought this holster from the Sofirn Aliex store (large size) as recommended for the SP36. It is made of thick material (nylon I believe) and has a velcro belt strap that is easy to use and stays attached well when walking. A plastic d-ring is also included with the large version, I have not used this yet but is appears strong and well shaped.

The SP36 fits well in the holster and the cover flap closes snugly with strong velcro. I like that you can insert the light either direction depending on preference and still have a secure fit.

I usually store my SP36 in the holster and if I need to bring it somewhere I feel comfortable putting it in a center console or glove box and the holster is thick enough to prevent and scratches or damage.

For $4.56 and free shipping I am happy with it.

SP36 Holster

Alen
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 14 min ago
Joined: 04/03/2012 - 08:26
Posts: 307
Location: Italy

Barry0892 wrote:

guys, sofirn shoot a video to show how to set step down time of SP36 NarsilM, please help check if it’s correct.


It’s too complex to me…..


 



 


 


Please made a 3x Led High-Cri Warmer version without usb-c
Lux-Perpetua
Lux-Perpetua's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 15 hours ago
Joined: 03/01/2018 - 04:39
Posts: 1820
Location: Germany, 德国, ドイツ, Германия, जर्मनी
Alen wrote:
[…] Please made a 3x Led High-Cri Warmer version without usb-c

Maybe the Lumintop FW3A would be the right thing for you. Wink
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54239

joechina
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 25 min ago
Joined: 03/05/2016 - 08:23
Posts: 1439
Location: Germany
Barry0892 wrote:

guys, sofirn shoot a video to show how to set step down time of SP36 NarsilM, please help check if it’s correct.


It’s too complex to me…..


 



 


 

Seems OK for me

Well, he is in RAMPING mode (that’s important to get the right setting table)
1. hold the switch to go into settings. Here 4sec. (On lamps from Texas Ace you must hold 16sec)
2. Wait till the lamp does a doubleblink followed by 3 blinks. That is the stepdown menue.
2.1 klick 3 times to choose timed stepdown
2.1.1 in timed stepdown the lamp waits for clicks. I think he clicked 2 or 3 times to set it for 1,5min or 2min stepdown
3. the lamp blinks menu #4 = strobe settings. Here he does nothing.
4. The lamp does 4 quick blinks to signal configuration is done.

But I dont know what he is saying.

What is the problem to understand, Barry?
It is basically walk through this table.
It helps when you have the table in front of you when you try to set up sth. Or you write down the exact click sequence before you try.

Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 8 min ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 946
Location: Germany - TLF
Alen wrote:
Barry0892 wrote:

guys, sofirn shoot a video to show how to set step down time of SP36 NarsilM, please help check if it’s correct.


It’s too complex to me…..


 



 


 

Please made a 3x Led High-Cri Warmer version without usb-c

Why only 3 LEDs?
Do you know this version? https://www.banggood.com/Sofirn-SP36-BLF-Anduril-4x-Sumsung-LH351D-5650LM-352m-Waterproof-Flashlight-p-1450214.html

Barry0892
Barry0892's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 49 min ago
Joined: 09/20/2014 - 03:45
Posts: 309
joechina wrote:
Barry0892 wrote:

guys, sofirn shoot a video to show how to set step down time of SP36 NarsilM, please help check if it’s correct.


It’s too complex to me…..


 



 


 

Seems OK for me

Well, he is in RAMPING mode (that’s important to get the right setting table)
1. hold the switch to go into settings. Here 4sec. (On lamps from Texas Ace you must hold 16sec)
2. Wait till the lamp does a doubleblink followed by 3 blinks. That is the stepdown menue.
2.1 klick 3 times to choose timed stepdown
2.1.1 in timed stepdown the lamp waits for clicks. I think he clicked 2 or 3 times to set it for 1,5min or 2min stepdown
3. the lamp blinks menu #4 = strobe settings. Here he does nothing.
4. The lamp does 4 quick blinks to signal configuration is done.

But I dont know what he is saying.

What is the problem to understand, Barry?
It is basically walk through this table.
It helps when you have the table in front of you when you try to set up sth. Or you write down the exact click sequence before you try.
!{width:80%}https://abload.de/img/screenshot_20190424-1f1k0t.png!

I think I know the trick, I counted all the blinks not the “2 short blinks+1 long blink” because my mind become slow when I count how many blinks after the 2 short blinks.

I think it’s better to count all the blinks for me. (2+1)3 blinks for ramping; (2+2)4 blinks for “set moonlight level”; (2+3)5 blinks for “timed stepdown”….. correct?

Find FREE items on my timeline.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/barry.lee.984991

WhatsApp: +8615773183209 

Alen
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 14 min ago
Joined: 04/03/2012 - 08:26
Posts: 307
Location: Italy
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Alen wrote:
Barry0892 wrote:

guys, sofirn shoot a video to show how to set step down time of SP36 NarsilM, please help check if it’s correct.


It’s too complex to me…..


 



 


 

Please made a 3x Led High-Cri Warmer version without usb-c

Why only 3 LEDs?
Do you know this version? https://www.banggood.com/Sofirn-SP36-BLF-Anduril-4x-Sumsung-LH351D-5650LM-352m-Waterproof-Flashlight-p-1450214.html


Thanks,but still too cool white.
And don’t need charging port
This light iswaterproof like the Q8?
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10107
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Barry0892 wrote:
I think I know the trick, I counted all the blinks not the “2 short blinks+1 long blink” because my mind become slow when I count how many blinks after the 2 short blinks.

I think it’s better to count all the blinks for me. (2+1)3 blinks for ramping; (2+2)4 blinks for “set moonlight level”; (2+3)5 blinks for “timed stepdown”….. correct?

That’s how I count it too. The two blinks at the beginning make it look to me like it goes 3, 4, 5 instead of 1, 2, 3. So it’s easier for me if I add 2 to everything.

icpart
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 34 min ago
Joined: 04/15/2019 - 01:13
Posts: 44
Location: Varna, Bulgaria

Hi. I received my new SP36 with Narsilm some days ago. My first impression was good but after that I realized that maybe I received a defective unit. The issued is with the surface finish of anodized aluminium body. There are defect and signs like from long usage and protrusion but that is brand new device. Also I talked with Sofirn support in Aliexpress and they told me it was normal and that is from screwing Facepalm Can someone confirm if you have the same issues with SP36. Also there are also signs under the edge where the cap touch it.


BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 42 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 5464
Location: Canada

That can happen.

I would not worry about it too much, as it comes probably from shipping.

It must have been a one-off mistake.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Jaidmaster
Jaidmaster's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 09/05/2013 - 15:02
Posts: 100
Location: Colorado

Finally got around to taking the driver out and flashing anduril to the SP36 (and my D4S - nice to have same UI on lights).

It was worth the effort. There were a few things bugging me with the stock UI.

  1. Setting moonlight to lowest level did not affect the bottom of the ramp, so had to do the click-hold to get that lowest level.
  2. Button was way too bright with no apparent way to change, other than turning it off.
  3. Keeping track of different UI's for different lights can be frustrating.

I used the "solder a handle onto the driver" method using a flattened piece of small diameter copper tubing and large iron. First attempt was a bit conservative and the handle pulled off. Second attempt with more surface area and heat did the trick - came out surprisingly easy this time. I think the extra heat helped as well.

I must say lightning mode is quite impressive with this light. Wink

Thanks for all the hard work put into the firmware and the ideas for driver removal!

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 42 sec ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 5464
Location: Canada

1. That’s normal. The lowest moonlight can only be achieved that way, and it’s insanely low.

2. Yeah. Would love multiple small, less bright LEDs that could be shut off, rather than 2 “large” LEDs.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10107
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
icpart wrote:
Hi. I received my new SP36 with Narsilm some days ago. My first impression was good but after that I realized that maybe I received a defective unit. The issued is with the surface finish of anodized aluminium body.

It seems like a lot of people have had issues with the SP36 and returned it, but most of the time I don’t really see why. Tiny flecks missing from the anodizing where it didn’t stick during production? Maybe I’m not as picky about things, but I find it a little weird to return an item because of a surface-level flaw so small it’s hard to see without looking closely.

Functional issues are definitely worth returning an item, like if it doesn’t work right or isn’t safe to operate. But superficial issues are less straightforward.

d_t_a
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 26 min ago
Joined: 08/04/2017 - 23:58
Posts: 1488
Location: Manila, Philippines
Jaidmaster wrote:

Finally got around to taking the driver out and flashing anduril to the SP36 (and my D4S – nice to have same UI on lights).


It was worth the effort. There were a few things bugging me with the stock UI.



  1. Setting moonlight to lowest level did not affect the bottom of the ramp, so had to do the click-hold to get that lowest level.

  2. Button was way too bright with no apparent way to change, other than turning it off.

  3. Keeping track of different UI’s for different lights can be frustrating.


I used the “solder a handle onto the driver” method using a flattened piece of small diameter copper tubing and large iron. First attempt was a bit conservative and the handle pulled off. Second attempt with more surface area and heat did the trick – came out surprisingly easy this time. I think the extra heat helped as well.


I must say lightning mode is quite impressive with this light. Wink


Thanks for all the hard work put into the firmware and the ideas for driver removal!

I’ve got the Sofirn SP36 “BLF Anduril” edition with Samsung LH351D LEDs.

The button brightness can be changed to Low-High-Blinking-Off by doing 7-clicks from Off.

(I’ve flashed Anduril to my BLF Q8 and Sofirn Q8, which also has the same behavior for the button LED — Low-High-Blinking-Off, when doing 7 clicks from Off)

Jaidmaster
Jaidmaster's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 09/05/2013 - 15:02
Posts: 100
Location: Colorado

This is exactly why I flashed anduril on it – this was not possible with the stock UI – the only options were bright and off… Smile
How do you like the LH351D’s?

Relampago
Relampago's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 04/14/2019 - 11:44
Posts: 517

I like the BLF SP36 so much, I may have to buy another. The LH351D’s are perfect for my eyesight. It hits the middle ground for me, not too warm and not ice blue. Keep in mind I’m color blind and it’s more about performance. I can still spot the difference when I put beams side by side, and I do find that I prefer the 5000k range.

“Electricity is really just organized lightning”
― George Carlin

Pages