Sofirn SP36, impressions of a sample

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jasontheguitarist
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I just got the driver out of mine and flashed the latest version of Anduril. I soldered a loop of 14ga wire to the contact ring and just pulled it out by hand, wasn’t even difficult honestly. After seeing the photos of the giant metal bar stuck through the loop to get it out I was worried I’d have trouble.

The driver snaps back into place very securely without having to glue it back in.

fluke
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djozz wrote:
Hammering the driver out with a pin through the switch hole appeared fruitless and only damaged the driver. So a new approach was needed, something drastic because the glue was tough. With the 80W beast I soldered a sizable strip of copper on top of the batt+ ring. p=. p. Chunk of iron was stuck through the loop, the head was placed on top of the partly opened vice, with the loop and chisel hanging loose in between. Holding the long end of the bar I started hammering carefully on the short end, each time a bit harder until the driver broke loose. (or the strip, or the batt+ring, luckily it was the driver Smile ) So here are some pics of what’s inside. As with the Q8 they used a nice copper board and the reflector is fixed in place with scews coming from the driver cavity, with the ledboard sandwiched in between reflector and shelf. The shelf is 5mm thick which is very adequate. The reflector btw only clamps against the front lens, it makes no contact with the side of the bezel, there is a small gap to the side. But I can’t think of a problem in that. Mind that this is a prototype so some improvisation is expected, I see that the driver is hand-soldered, I see an extra cap soldered on top somewhere and a little jump wire, I see that they insulated the ledwires from the reflector with some led-centering thing (the concept of that is Thumbs Up because it removes a potential risk). (these are transistors? I found these components on aliexpress marked X15V 3 K and those were transistors) (stacking an extra cap. Is this the charging chip?. Stereopic) (the SP36 board is smaller than the Q8 board, but the same type, they just put the led+ trace on the outside instead of inside, but there’s clearance everywhere it could touch the shell)

What was the size of copper strip?

djozz
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About the size that you see in the picture above Wink
Must have it around still somewhere, I guess 1mm thick, a cm or so wide, 10 cm long?

fluke
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Thank you. 

Sari33
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I’ts important the usb charging port?
I prefer charge battery away from flashlight.
Does water can enter?
I really would buy one without this type C port,like the BLF Q8

djozz
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Sari33 wrote:
I’ts important the usb charging port?
I prefer charge battery away from flashlight.
Does water can enter?
I really would buy one without this type C port,like the BLF Q8

*No, just convenient
*Many people prefer that
*It has a silicon cover, but it is not as waterproof as it would be without port, would not submerge it too long.
*It does not come without USB C port
Alen
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djozz wrote:
Sari33 wrote:
I’ts important the usb charging port? I prefer charge battery away from flashlight. Does water can enter? I really would buy one without this type C port,like the BLF Q8
*No, just convenient *Many people prefer that *It has a silicon cover, but it is not as waterproof as it would be without port, would not submerge it too long. *It does not come without USB C port

So charging multi cell on the flashlight it’s dangerous?

djozz
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Alen wrote:
djozz wrote:
Sari33 wrote:
I’ts important the usb charging port? I prefer charge battery away from flashlight. Does water can enter? I really would buy one without this type C port,like the BLF Q8
*No, just convenient *Many people prefer that *It has a silicon cover, but it is not as waterproof as it would be without port, would not submerge it too long. *It does not come without USB C port

So charging multi cell on the flashlight it’s dangerous?


Did I say that?
A_M_K
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A week went by, since I received my SP36 BLF and I’m really liking it so far. Here are some observations.
It starts to get hot SUPER FAST when on turbo, which I’m not a big fan of. The overall light quality(meaning beam, tint, CRI) is just great, very neutral and pleasing to the eye. Given that this flashlight is quite floody, I do sometimes have wished for it to have been a tad brighter, maybe a 1000lm more or so, for better throw, but that’s just me. The Anduril firmware is just fantastic, the instructions were a little intimidating at first with all those options, but after you get the hang of it, you realize how awesome it is.

All in all, I was never a big fan of these soda can style lights, but this BLF one with its compact size, nice LEDs and Anduril, persuaded me to give it a try and I have no regrets. Smile Beer

BlueSwordM
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Yeah.

Anduril is superb, the and the LH351Ds 5000k 90CRI are great LEDs.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

d_t_a
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Looks like there is a new variant – SP36S:

Sofirn SP36S “simple edition”, also with 4x LH351D LEDs, rating max 5200 lumens, ramping & group modes – possibly similar to the SP32A, or C8F, or C8G, or SP70 — these flashlights also have a ramping an dgroups mode) (the Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril edition also uses 4x LH351D LEDs, rating max 5650 lumens, uses Anduril firmware)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33055962936.html or
https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Brightest-Batter...

Quote:
USB Charging port: Build-In charging port and it comes with USB C cable(adapter not included), the flashlight accept 9V 2A fast charging. It can be charged via premium power bank or USB charging adapter directly.

Ultra Bright: Sofirn SP36 Utilizes 4 x Sumsung LH351D Led, giving out up to 5200 lumens, throwing up to 343 meters

Simple and Convenient: Sofirn SP36S has simple UI with single 5 light modes and ramping it is easy to operate. The package comes with everything take your worries of power.

probably a typo – “uses 1× 3000mAh 18650”

based on specs: it appears to have this improvement (if really correct) on the charging: it supports 5v/3A or 9v/2A charging (IIRC, SP36 and SP36 ‘BLF Anduril’ has 5v/2A charging current only)

BlueSwordM
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Ah, they are using a modified version of Anduril.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Lux-Perpetua
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The SP36S does not use a modified Andúril but Sofirn‘s proprietary UI.

According to my information the SP36S can charge with 9V@2A or 5V@3A.

 

Please use the updated manual (English and German) that I have rectified for Sofirn and that should also be supplied with every SP36S:

CLICK HERE

A_M_K
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Is there a way to configure SP36 BLFs Momentary Mode, to have the max Turbo brightness instead of the max ramp-level brightness??

d_t_a
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

The SP36S does not use a modified Andúril but Sofirn‘s proprietary UI.


According to my information the SP36S can charge with 9V@2A or 5V@3A.


 


Please use the updated manual (English and German) that I have rectified for Sofirn and that should also be supplied with every SP36S:


CLICK HERE


Apparently the SP36S can charge in QC2.0-9v or QC2.0-12v too.

dropman
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Got my SP36 today, and tried to remove driver (want to flash newest version of Anduril) with thick wire loop soldered. Pulled almost as much as I could, but driver didnt move.
Any new hints on how to remove that driver? I am afraid of heating it too much.

hodor
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Have a look further up this page or at djozz’s original post

Yokiamy
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Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

 

WTS BLF GT

 

fluke
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I soldered 8 AWG wire on the brass battery ring then pulled like hell.

BE AWARE with this method you could pull all wires off the board, unless you are careful.

Wieselflinkpro
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Yokiamy wrote:
Or use the bent nail method from wieselflinkpro

https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/sofirn-sp36-blf-q8-mini....

https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/2019-03-29-4666_tlf.29750/


For me it was the easyest and most carefull way to open it.
I used a hammer and did a little beat to the nail and the driver falls out. The tape is to avoid scratches.
You can push the switch-board in the driver-room, before you use the nail. But you wont get it back out, if you fail to remove the driver. There are slots for the switch board to push it through the whole without desoldering the wires.

dropman
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I can try it, but how do I remove the button?

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dropman wrote:
I can try it, but how do I remove the button?

unscrew the ring around the button with rubber gloves or a tong.
Lux-Perpetua
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d_t_a wrote:
Apparently the SP36S can charge in QC2.0-9v or QC2.0-12v too.

That‘s right. Smile

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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Yokiamy wrote:
Or use the bent nail method from wieselflinkpro

https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/sofirn-sp36-blf-q8-mini....

https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/2019-03-29-4666_tlf.29750/


For me it was the easyest and most carefull way to open it.
I used a hammer and did a little beat to the nail and the driver falls out. The tape is to avoid scratches.
You can push the switch-board in the driver-room, before you use the nail. But you wont get it back out, if you fail to remove the driver. There are slots for the switch board to push it through the whole without desoldering the wires.

!{width:45%}https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/2019-03-29-4671_tlf.29746/full!

I experienced more trouble getting out the sideswitch than the driver.

Even the sideswitch had some glue underneath, so i had to pry it out.
Then using the bent nail (thanx for the tip) i popped out the driver without any trouble. I didn’t even have to use much force, just pushed the nail firmly onto the driver with my bare hands until i heard some cracking noises, that was the sound of the glue on the driver letting go. Some more pushing and the driver came loose completely.

Now just wait for the new MCPCB from Barry (just 10$ for a MCPCB with the Samsung LH351D LEDs including shipping)

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

 

WTS BLF GT

 

dropman
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Managed to unscrew button bezel, but cant get button out. There is a lot of glue and I used metal needle with slightly bent end, but it doesn’t move when I pulled with a lot of force. I am afraid to damage something.
By the way, does Sofirn sell spare drivers and buttons in case I damage mine? Or maybe there are non OEM buttons and drivers that will fit?

UPDATE: button is out. Will try nail method now.
UPDATE2: driver is out. New firmware flashed. Everything works!

P.S. HATE GLUE.

djozz
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Quote:
UPDATE: button is out. Will try nail method now.
UPDATE2: driver is out. New firmware flashed. Everything works!

P.S. HATE GLUE.

Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
travis
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Hope this does not have the serious issues the SF-11 had with parasitic drain.
Mine was a “battery killer”
Are the internal builds different ?

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Tom E
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NarsilM and Anduril handle parasitic drain so it's quite low, #'s published in many places, unless there's some real problem with the driver electronics.

ToyKeeper
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A_M_K wrote:
Is there a way to configure SP36 BLFs Momentary Mode, to have the max Turbo brightness instead of the max ramp-level brightness??

If the ramp ceiling is set to turbo, momentary mode will also be able to run at full brightness. It simply uses the last-ramped level.

travis wrote:
Hope this does not have the serious issues the SF-11 had with parasitic drain. Mine was a “battery killer” Are the internal builds different ?

As long as the button LED is off or in low mode, it should have parasitic drain lower than the cells’ self-discharge rate. The button LED’s high mode could drain a set of cells in about a year though.

A_M_K
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Thank you for the answer, ToyKeeper! Beer

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