XHP50.2 in a cheap zoomie. HOT or Not

[Funner]

So I love the zoomies. This EBL 26650 is my favorite. https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Tactical-Flashlight-Adjustable-Water-Resistant/dp/B075FJNRD9

It say it has a L2. I took it apart and it says CREE. I like the light as is. But I also want more. I have a 20mm XHP50.2 led and the 20mm driver in my Kaidomain cart.

What can I expect from the mod. Some heat or too much heat? I would use it on low or medium and high for less than 30secs.

Keeppowers are what I will juice them with.

Thank You

[zeroflow]

Leaving out the general hate against zoomies, there would be the following points:

• Yes, this will generate a lot of heat. 30s on high may be too much.
  • Assuming they use a true 1200lm Cree XP-L2
  • 1200lm of an XP-L2 would be 10.5W of used power (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/43270)
  • At 6.8A of the driver mentioned below, the XHP50.2 will probably output around 4200lm while having a Vf of 6.7V
  • 6.7V @ 6.8A = ~50W
  • => You have around 5x the heat generated
• Do you have the right driver?
  • http://kaidomain.com/S026606-H1-A-20mm-3A-1-cell-5-Mode-Boost-Driver-Circuit-Board-for-Cree-XHP50-6V-MT-G2-MK-R2?search=20mm%20boost
• Don't forget to upgrade the tailspring and tailswitch.
  • A 6V Boost driver that outputs 6.8A will draw around 10A from the battery
  • The Keeppower battery will be no problem
  • But the spring and the switch will
  • => Bypass the spring
  • => Maybe change the switch to a known good omten Switch

So in total, I would not suggest that. Such small lights are mostly limited by thermal performance.

I would suggest you get a nice looking LED with the tint and CRI you like.

Maybe look at the Samsung LH351, Luminus SST-20 and SST-40.

Maybe if you like cold white, you could also take a look at the Luxeon MZ 5700K 90+ CRI LED

Or: get a better driver that is not such a stupid 3/5 mode design.

[Jtm94]

Truthfully my C8.2 with an XHP50.2 doesn’t get that hot on max brightness which is around 2100~ lumens. You could manage 30 second runs fairly easily as long as this light has a thermal path that wou’t overheat the LED.

[zeroflow]

@Jtm94

Truthfully my C8.2 with an XHP50.2 doesn’t get that hot on max brightness which is around 2100~ lumens. You could manage 30 second runs fairly easily as long as this light has a thermal path that wou’t overheat the LED.

Which driver do you use and how much current does it provide?

Because I suspect the KD 20mm driver may provide more current

[Funner]

@zeroflow

Leaving out the general hate against zoomies, there would be the following points:

• Yes, this will generate a lot of heat. 30s on high may be too much.

  • Assuming they use a true 1200lm Cree XP-L2 

  • 1200lm of an XP-L2 would be 10.5W of used power (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/43270)

  • At 6.8A of the driver mentioned below, the XHP50.2 will probably output around 4200lm while having a Vf of 6.7V

  • 6.7V @ 6.8A = ~50W

  • => You have around 5x the heat generated

• Do you have the right driver?

  • http://kaidomain.com/S026606-H1-A-20mm-3A-1-cell-5-Mode-Boost-Driver-Circuit-Board-for-Cree-XHP50-6V-MT-G2-MK-R2?search=20mm%20boost

• Don’t forget to upgrade the tailspring and tailswitch.

  • A 6V Boost driver that outputs 6.8A will draw around 10A from the battery

  • The Keeppower battery will be no problem

  • But the spring and the switch will

  • => Bypass the spring

  • => Maybe change the switch to a known good omten Switch

So in total, I would not suggest that. Such small lights are mostly limited by thermal performance.

I would suggest you get a nice looking LED with the tint and CRI you like.

Maybe look at the Samsung LH351, Luminus SST-20 and SST-40.

Maybe if you like cold white, you could also take a look at the Luxeon MZ 5700K 90+ CRI LED

Or: get a better driver that is not such a stupid 3/5 mode design.

Yep i have the correct(Same) driver. I will look at upgrading the switch. I’m going to give it a go

[Funner]

I will use it on hi for 15 seconds if heat is an issue.

Medium would probably be a ideal output level for this light.

I will consider this light my “Poor Mans Jaxman Zoomie”

[Cereal_killer]

@Funner

I will consider this light my “Poor Mans Jaxman Zoomie”

Don’t kid yourself…

The JAX / jaxman Z1 is such a great light because of many factors, to name three:

1. It’s large, solid Brass pill
2. The pill is threaded into direct contact with the outside of the body, not part of the body that’s covered by the slider part (air gapped to the body where heat is radiating from).
3. Extremely high quality AR coated glass lens.

Is the pill in your light even solid? I know many of those cheap zoomie are hollow (mcpcb supported only at the edges. No material under LED)

[Funner]

Not a solid pill. But I thought about filling 3/4” worth of the pill with thermal silicon glue that would harden. The pill is threaded to the body.

[MascaratumB]

Adding some copper sheet below the MCPCB would help too! There are some mod around with that!
It helps to dissipate heat better, as a XHP will produce a lot heat!

[Agro]

@Funner

Not a solid pill. But I thought about filling 3/4” worth of the pill with thermal silicon glue that would harden. The pill is threaded to the body.

Fill with copper wire as well as you can. Then fill the rest of empty space with solder. That will work much better.

[Funner]

Will give the copper wire a go.

[Funner]

I see a lot about JB weld on here. JB weld the epoxy would do in place of solder in the heat sink pill?