Fireflies E07 preview

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Lexel
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I can’t actually give any good answers about the aux LEDs until I test one in person. The reasons are because earlier lights have used aux LED boards which aren’t compatible with the low mode, and because earlier lights had the aux LEDs soldered in an always-on position.

So… I hope these are both fixed now, but I think it’s likely that only the always-on thing is fixed. In that case, it would have high and off, but no low mode.

Simple answer as I developed that board

currently the aux board has only on and off as it is now

the LEDs depending on color get switched with 2 N and one p-channel FETs, applying PWM to them sounds doable, also right now they have stabilized brightness at 2.8V LDO output we would need to drop
it uses an LDO for the comparator chip and all other components, so PWMing the whole board wont do anything

on top of that the current Aux board is switched on with a small N-FET with the aux-output from the MCU,
so that the board runs on full battery voltage not over the MCU diode,
this has the simple reason that at about 3V the LDO falls out of regulation and the reference voltage for the comparator drops faster than the battery sense input, so the comparator wont work at this point anymore

to get low/high implemented we would need to drop stabilized LED brightness and add a PWM pad separate voltage rail for the LEDs,
but this means we would need an extra MCU output to generate the low signal as we need still a high to turn the board on
and there is simply no real tracing another Vcc rail on 2 layer board, this would mean 4 layer

It would be possible to make it work but we are already limited
- max MCU outputs
- complexity of wiring/PCB design (2 layer wont be enough anymore)

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Lexel wrote:
Simple answer

to get low/high implemented we would need to … the complexity of wiring/PCB design would get even worse

There’s a much simpler answer: MCU pin -> resistor -> aux LEDs. That’s all.

It’s simpler, cheaper, allows both high and low modes to work, and can still be turned off at low voltage. The downside is that it no longer has regulated brightness, and it might need extra MCU pins to handle any color changes. But the difference between regulated and non-regulated aux LEDs isn’t really perceptible anyway, and there are multiple ways to implement color changes are desired.

Lexel
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Lexel wrote:
Simple answer

to get low/high implemented we would need to … the complexity of wiring/PCB design would get even worse

There’s a much simpler answer: MCU pin -> resistor -> aux LEDs. That’s all.

It’s simpler, cheaper, allows both high and low modes to work, and can still be turned off at low voltage. The downside is that it no longer has regulated brightness, and it might need extra MCU pins to handle any color changes. But the difference between regulated and non-regulated aux LEDs isn’t really perceptible anyway, and there are multiple ways to implement color changes are desired.

if you want programm a firmware for the 1634 with watchdog for sleep state LVP, LED color change ect. I am open to it
right now the most limiting factor is the MCU

ToyKeeper wrote:
There’s a much simpler answer: MCU pin -> resistor -> aux LEDs. That’s all.

this is stone age, then you can easily get balancing problem with LEDs, like the first Q8 had
the voltage comparator is the simplest version of color change based on input voltage if not done via MCU
and the additional parts costs with production about 1.2€ more than a Emisar D4S board

The user can change each color ring with a build in 3×3mm trimmer to the brightness he likes

The problem is less the complexity of the circuit
it is getting it done on this swiss cheese Aux board, which forces you to route a lot extra to get around the holes
those are the bottle necks

I have looked into it and on current boards design it is possible to add a LED PWM rail replacing the stabilized,
but still this leaves us open with the MCU pin problem

Not sure if a shottky diode and capacitor on the power on FETs gate would be enough to leave the board on in the PWM low state

Nichia
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+1 for Copper and Titanium Edition 

Nichia!

ToyKeeper
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Lexel wrote:
PWM low state

I’m trying to avoid using PWM on the aux LEDs, because it tends to dramatically increase the amount of power used… which kind of defeats the point.

The common “breathing LED” effect, for example, uses about 150 to 200 times as much power as the “low” aux LED mode on a D4S.

In any case, I recently reduced the code size a bit, so I think there’s enough space to do some fancy things with aux LEDs on a tiny84 or tiny841 now. No need to move up to tiny1634 yet.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Lexel wrote:
PWM low state

I’m trying to avoid using PWM on the aux LEDs, because it tends to dramatically increase the amount of power used… which kind of defeats the point.

The common “breathing LED” effect, for example, uses about 150 to 200 times as much power as the “low” aux LED mode on a D4S.

In any case, I recently reduced the code size a bit, so I think there’s enough space to do some fancy things with aux LEDs on a tiny84 or tiny841 now. No need to move up to tiny1634 yet.

Low power breathing AUX Love Love

DB Custom
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Lexel and ToyKeeper, figuring it out. In other words… EPIC! Big Smile

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Fireflies sent me an E07. Two, actually.

I asked what the purpose was, what they needed me to do with it.

The answer: “No purpose. Anduril designer deserves to own the first one of E07 LOL

So that was a nice gesture. Smile

Anyway, it arrived today. One grey model with XP-L HI 3A, one desert tan with XP-L HI 1A. This isn’t a review, but here are some disorganized initial observations:

  • It’s girlfriend-approved. V likes it, and thinks it’s the best light I have.
  • It’s smaller than it looks in the pictures.
  • Both items had good thermal calibration right out of the box.
  • The aux LEDs are pretty bright, but can be adjusted with a screwdriver. I got it down to 0.24 mA standby power at the lowest it would go.
  • There are two colors of aux LED, normally. One color is sharp and sparkly, the other is soft and diffused. The ones I got are purple-ish and emerald-green-ish, with the arrangement swapped from one light to the other.
  • The aux LEDs can turn on and off, and they turn red at about 3.1V or 3.2V.
  • Two of the button LEDs are always on. The other two run in sync with the aux LEDs. So two button LEDs turn off when the main emitters are on.
  • The knurling texture is a bit more aggressive than I’d like.
  • The clip is extremely tight.
  • The clip groove is unusually deep, but this helps keep the clip “fingers” from poking out.
  • The heat fins are deep, but a bit sharp.
  • Paracord lanyards are included, and extra O-rings, an 18650 adapter, and an extra optic. Not sure if the extra optic comes standard, but it appears to be identical to the one in the light.
  • With the 18650 adapter, the battery doesn’t rattle. Flat-top cells are okay too.
  • The stainless steel bezel is a really nice touch.
  • The ramp slope is a bit uneven at a couple spots, but it’s not distracting. The most noticeable spot is somewhere around 5 to 10 lm, where the MCU switches to full clock speed. Unusual, but not really an issue.
  • The beam with XP-L HI is a flat wide hotspot with a somewhat narrow spill area around it. The overall shape is like a plateau, not like a rounded hill.
  • The emitters are rotated relative to each other for a smoother beam.
  • Firmware is Anduril, and all functions appear to work. I think it’s the PL47 build from 2018-10-27 or 2018-10-28.

The MCPCB and aux LED board appear to be a pain to solder, so before anyone asks… No, I do not want to unsolder the E07 to get answers about what’s inside. I plan to leave these unmodded, except maybe to try updating the firmware some day after I get one of Lexel’s flashing keys.

saypat
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… is it ToyKeeper approved?

SKV89
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Thanks for the info TK! I can tell Jack don’t frequent the forums often otherwise he would have known you like the 219B 4500k 9080 version.

But since you have both the XP-L HI 1A and 3A, can you take some lumen measurements to compare them. Because FF is listing the 3A as a V2 flux bin and the 1A as V3 flux bin. The 3A is also specified at a lower output than the 1A. For the ROT66, both 1A and 3A emitters are V3 and FF publish the same 10k lumen output for both.

I’m wondering if and why FF decided to change from V3 to V2 for the 3A XP-L HI.

ToyKeeper
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SKV89 wrote:
since you have both the XP-L HI 1A and 3A, can you take some lumen measurements to compare them

Nope.

My light box maxes out well below the E07’s turbo level, and I don’t even have a high-amp 21700 cell to use. I’ve been sticking to high-mAh cells instead.

polarweis
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Iam waiting for the bare aluminium one(25 dec). Hope the code still works then.

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

Mildlyangryjohnny
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polarweis wrote:
Iam waiting for the bare aluminium one(25 dec). Hope the code still works then.

What code? Pl47 code does not work—tried it. Did i miss it? Has there been any mention of a group buy or discount for the e07?

polarweis
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pre order code found here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37267?page=136
you can use it on nealsgadgets.com

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

BlueSwordM
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Remove that code please from views of the public eye.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

polarweis
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Remove that code please from views of the public eye.

it is placed in another node by m4d m4x. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37267?page=136 comment # 4087

its not a hidden code.

"It wouldn’t be so bright if there wasn’t a shadow every once in a while." - Jason Mraz

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Okay then.

Just link to the page for the code however, just in case Smile

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

nokoff
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Do we have to order from Neal. Nothing against Neal, I prefer to order on Fireflies site. Will there be another code like with the ROT66 and PL47 which works on his site directly?

Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義

Tally-ho
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ToyKeeper wrote:
The answer: “No purpose. Anduril designer deserves to own the first one of E07 LOL

So that was a nice gesture. Smile


freeme
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http://budgetlightforum.com/node/63923

nokoff wrote:
Do we have to order from Neal. Nothing against Neal, I prefer to order on Fireflies site. Will there be another code like with the ROT66 and PL47 which works on his site directly?

©freemex1thedeals.com

DB Custom
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That little boy showing respect is SO CUTE! Well done young man! (And of course Fireflies… Wink )

jtechl
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Fireflies sent me an E07. Two, actually.

I asked what the purpose was, what they needed me to do with it.

The answer: “No purpose. Anduril designer deserves to own the first one of E07 LOL

So that was a nice gesture. Smile

Anyway, it arrived today. One grey model with XP-L HI 3A, one desert tan with XP-L HI 1A. This isn’t a review, but here are some disorganized initial observations:

  • It’s girlfriend-approved. V likes it, and thinks it’s the best light I have.
  • It’s smaller than it looks in the pictures.
  • Both items had good thermal calibration right out of the box.
  • The aux LEDs are pretty bright, but can be adjusted with a screwdriver. I got it down to 0.24 mA standby power at the lowest it would go.
  • There are two colors of aux LED, normally. One color is sharp and sparkly, the other is soft and diffused. The ones I got are purple-ish and emerald-green-ish, with the arrangement swapped from one light to the other.
  • The aux LEDs can turn on and off, and they turn red at about 3.1V or 3.2V.
  • Two of the button LEDs are always on. The other two run in sync with the aux LEDs. So two button LEDs turn off when the main emitters are on.
  • The knurling texture is a bit more aggressive than I’d like.
  • The clip is extremely tight.
  • The clip groove is unusually deep, but this helps keep the clip “fingers” from poking out.
  • The heat fins are deep, but a bit sharp.
  • Paracord lanyards are included, and extra O-rings, an 18650 adapter, and an extra optic. Not sure if the extra optic comes standard, but it appears to be identical to the one in the light.
  • With the 18650 adapter, the battery doesn’t rattle. Flat-top cells are okay too.
  • The stainless steel bezel is a really nice touch.
  • The ramp slope is a bit uneven at a couple spots, but it’s not distracting. The most noticeable spot is somewhere around 5 to 10 lm, where the MCU switches to full clock speed. Unusual, but not really an issue.
  • The beam with XP-L HI is a flat wide hotspot with a somewhat narrow spill area around it. The overall shape is like a plateau, not like a rounded hill.
  • The emitters are rotated relative to each other for a smoother beam.
  • Firmware is Anduril, and all functions appear to work. I think it’s the PL47 build from 2018-10-27 or 2018-10-28.

The MCPCB and aux LED board appear to be a pain to solder, so before anyone asks… No, I do not want to unsolder the E07 to get answers about what’s inside. I plan to leave these unmodded, except maybe to try updating the firmware some day after I get one of Lexel’s flashing keys.

any chance you could show a picture of it next to a D4 and D4S for comparison? (or even ROT66? :D)

P33
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Picture next to FW3A would be useful too Wink

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Hey, TK. how about a pic of fw3a in V’s hand and the e07 in the other? I Might get one for the wifey. I almost had a heart attack when SHE asked ME for a new flashlight because the last one wasn’t bright enough. Congrats on your new lights for a job well done. I think Jacky got the auxiliary LEDs colors right for you!

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

ToyKeeper
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jtechl wrote:
any chance you could show a picture of it next to a D4 and D4S for comparison? (or even ROT66? :D)

Maybe next to a ROT66, but probably not a D4/D4S. It seems a bit rude to make a public comparison of two competing clients’ products, especially when both are some of the best on the market.

Also, this is only speculation, but I get the impression that FF may be intentionally avoiding direct overlap, by choosing different form factors and different battery types and different aesthetics. I don’t think the items are meant to be directly comparable. It’s a form of playing nice, and I want to respect that.

jtechl
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ToyKeeper wrote:
jtechl wrote:
any chance you could show a picture of it next to a D4 and D4S for comparison? (or even ROT66? :D)

Maybe next to a ROT66, but probably not a D4/D4S. It seems a bit rude to make a public comparison of two competing clients’ products, especially when both are some of the best on the market.

Also, this is only speculation, but I get the impression that FF may be intentionally avoiding direct overlap, by choosing different form factors and different battery types and different aesthetics. I don’t think the items are meant to be directly comparable. It’s a form of playing nice, and I want to respect that.

Fair enough, I understand your viewpoint and your analysis of their viewpoint. Please show me one of the E07 and the ROT66, if you could! Big Smile Thumbs Up

kanton
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Fireflies sent me an E07. Two, actually.

I asked what the purpose was, what they needed me to do with it.

The answer: “No purpose. Anduril designer deserves to own the first one of E07 LOL

That’s really nice. And well deserved.

twisted raven
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a picture next to the rot66 would be nice. and just to verify, the aux leds on the side switch are purple, correct? are the purple leds on the head the same purple as the side switch? are the optics the same size a the rot66, or smaller?

ZoomieFan
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I’m mostly interested in sustained high and effiency.
I guess I’ve too wait for a review too know the sustained high?

Anyway which option is most effecient? Is the light with the most lumens on turbo also the light that’s most effecient at, say, 1000 lumen?
If there is an effiency difference how many percent would that be?

Chargers: 1xBasen BD01 5/5, 1x Gyrfalcon All-88, LiitoKala: 3x100 4/5, 2x202 5/5, 1x402 3/5., MiBoxer C4-12 3/5.
Flashlights: BLF Q8 4/5, DQG Tiny III 26650 5/5, FiTorch MR35 3/5, Haikelite SC26 HD 3/5, Lumintop Tool AA/AAA 4/5, Nitecore LA10, Sofirn C01 BLF 3200k/5600k, Zebralight H600Fc 3/5.
Powerbanks: EasyAcc 26800 mAh 3/5, Xtar PB2 4/5.
Waiting for: (DQG Tiny) 21700 EDCs. Xtar powerbank that (also) takes 20700, 21700, 26650

ToyKeeper
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twisted raven wrote:
a picture next to the rot66 would be nice. and just to verify, the aux leds on the side switch are purple, correct? are the purple leds on the head the same purple as the side switch? are the optics the same size a the rot66, or smaller?

The side switch LEDs look more like cyan on mine.

Anyway, some pictures. My camera doesn’t pick up the aux LED colors very well though. They’re a lot more vibrant than they look in the pictures, and a lot more different from each other. But since the LEDs are narrow-band colors, my camera’s RGB sensor apparently doesn’t know what to do with it.

Also, kind of experimenting with watermarking because it’s getting old seeing my pics used by companies to sell stuff. So I ran a really early proof of concept script on the pics to put some minimal identifying info in them. I’ll have something nicer-looking later.

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