Fireflies E07 preview

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Newlumen
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SKV89 wrote:
JordanZHP wrote:
SKV89 thanks for the info!

So you have two different E07 XP-L HI 5000k? Do you think it’s odd there is a 600 lumen difference running the same 30T?

I retested the three XP-L HI several times. Cleaned the contacts. I guess it has to do with the lumen lottery of each emitter or maybe even the soldering quality. It is not uncommon to see lights within the same batch vary in output. I’ve tested many lights of the same model and have seen quite a few variations.

Thanks for the test.. yes e07 is brighter than d4s. E07 have more leds.. that make sense.

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noboneshotdog

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Nice did you initialy ask through email or BLF private message? What’s the best way to get in contact with him?

Email.

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twisted raven wrote:
The LEDs flickering is most likely not an issue with the light, it’s just a behavior of the LEDs themselves. Set the floor higher, to 3. That’s what I had to do with my SST20 ROT66.

It seems to be related to the individual 7135 chip used. Some do it, some don’t. Or at least, some do it enough to be noticeable, while others have a much much more subtle effect.

In any case, I think I found a way to reduce it further, and sent an update to Fireflies. Hopefully it will be used in lights which haven’t been assembled yet.

It is also possible to make moon lower and smoother by increasing the MCU clock speed, but that makes it use 3X as much power to produce 1/3rd as much light, and it also makes the moon mode a lot more sensitive to small changes in hardware and battery voltage.

contactcr
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TK,

All my MTN FET+1’s do this. I could test on those at some point if you have time and make build for me to test on my C8F. I think I usually use a Q8 hex file.

I bought some new 7135’s but it just seems like such a pain to swap them rather than just use floor 3

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contactcr wrote:
TK,

All my MTN FET+1’s do this. I could test on those at some point if you have time and make build for me to test on my C8F. I think I usually use a Q8 hex file.

If you have hardware which can reliably hit the issue, it’d be helpful to get test results for a new build. I haven’t been able to test very well because I don’t have lights with flicker problems.

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-01-05.blf-q8.hex

contactcr
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ToyKeeper wrote:
If you have hardware which can reliably hit the issue, it’d be helpful to get test results for a new build. I haven’t been able to test very well because I don’t have lights with flicker problems.

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-01-05.blf-q8.hex

Seems to be fixed for my case. FWIW, I believe this is one of the 380mAh 7135’s that Richard uses.

before:

MTN-20DDm
1 lux – floor 1, anduril-old (lots of flicker)
1 lux – floor 2, anduril-old (lots of flicker)
9 lux – floor 3, anduril-old (no flicker)

flash:

avrdude -c usbasp -p t85 -u -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m -Uflash:w:anduril.2019-01-05.blf-q8.hex

after:

between 0-1 lux – floor 1, anduril-new (NO flicker)
mostly 1 lux – floor 2, anduril-new (NO flicker)
9 lux – floor 3, anduril-new (NO flicker)

With that said 1 lux on my setup = so low you would need to be within 1 ft of something to see. You probably couldn’t even see your own feet at this level. Floor 3 (9 lux) I estimate to be half a lumen.

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contactcr wrote:
Seems to be fixed for my case.

between 0-1 lux – floor 1, anduril-new (NO flicker)
mostly 1 lux – floor 2, anduril-new (NO flicker)
9 lux – floor 3, anduril-new (NO flicker)

Thanks! It’s helpful to know it works!

BTW, there should be no difference between ramp step 1 and 2. The bottom of the ramp doesn’t have enough resolution to get exactly the levels it wants, so the bottom few levels are repeated. It varies per model of light, but for example, the bottom of the Q8 ramp looks like this:

1,1,2,2,3,3,4,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,12,13,14,15,17,19,20,22,24,26,29,31,34,36,39,42,…

The processor’s clock speed changes a couple times toward the bottom to make things more stable and more efficient, and I put the clock speed boundaries in parts of the ramp where the numbers have a gap. For example, where it jumps from 10 to 12, that’s where it goes up to the full clock speed. It’s the least noticeable place to put the speed difference, since the analog properties of the circuit blur the edges of each pulse and turn the “12” into something more like “11.5”.

contactcr
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That makes sense. I never saw much of any difference before or after for 1 and 2 and the light meter would not settle on even 1 lux.

I still do not see a purpose for such a low level (1 or 2). It’s so low the head of your flashlight will nearly cover the usable space you would be able to see. A novelty really. However, that’s exactly what makes Anduril so cool. You can configure the lowest level!

To put this into perspective:

Emisar D1 is 15 lux
Sofirn Q8 is 6 lux
D4S is 6 lux
E07 219B is 1 lux (no flicker)
S2+ triple w/ LED4Power driver is 9 lux

SKV89
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Toykeeper, is it possible for you to revise Anduril to give us double click from off to Turbo? Currenty there’s no way to go direct to turbo and it often registers a triple click if I don’t time the clicks right when I want to go from off to turbo. It’s very annoying especially when I blast turbo very often from off. I really miss that ability in RampIOS and Narsil.

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SKV89 wrote:
Toykeeper, is it possible for you to revise Anduril to give us double click from off to Turbo? Currenty there’s no way to go direct to turbo and it often registers a triple click if I don’t time the clicks right when I want to go from off to turbo. It’s very annoying especially when I blast turbo very often from off. I really miss that ability in RampIOS and Narsil.

I am confused, what’s the behaviour in Andúril with a double click from off? To go to the ceiling tha was set instead of full turbo?

SKV89
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Yes double-click goes to ramp ceiling. You have to double click again to go to turbo.

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On my rot66b I set ramp ceiling to max so double click from off goes to turbo if I remember correctly.  Maybe not the best solution if you don't want a max ramp ceiling.

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SKV89 wrote:
Toykeeper, is it possible for you to revise Anduril to give us double click from off to Turbo?

The intended solution for that is… set the ceiling to turbo. It doesn’t even have to be both ceilings; there can be one set at turbo and one set to a more reasonable level. I’d suggest setting the stepped ramp ceiling to turbo, because with steps it’s also easy to hit a lower level consistently.

On most lights, I use the smooth ramp indoors and the stepped ramp outdoors. People can configure it however they like, of course, but this is the setup I’ve found works best for me.

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Using quality 350mA 7135 chips will solve most of the issue. The 380’s are actually cherry picked 350’s and as such can be unstable. Or so I’ve read… I’ve found it to be true and prefer to use the 350’s whenever possible on the single +1 7135 channel.

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Anyone know what "muggle" mode is in anduril?  I tried it but it just seemed to act weird.

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klrman wrote:

Anyone know what “muggle” mode is in anduril?  I tried it but it just seemed to act weird.

Reduced output (i think), less modes/features:

Muggle mode:

* 1 click: On / off. * Hold: Ramp up / down. * 6 clicks: Exit muggle mode.
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contactcr wrote:
klrman wrote:

Anyone know what "muggle" mode is in anduril?  I tried it but it just seemed to act weird.

Reduced output (i think), less modes/features: Muggle mode: * 1 click: On / off. * Hold: Ramp up / down. * 6 clicks: Exit muggle mode.

 

Thanks contactcr!  At first I didn't realize I had it Muggle mode and double clicking or ramping would not go to turbo or anything remotely bright and I thought something was malfunctioning.  

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Muggle mode is a mode to put the light in before handing it to a child or anyone else who is likely to use the light in unsafe ways. It’s simpler and can’t go very bright.

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Firelight2 wrote:
Waiting for my E07 with XPL HI 4,000K.

Reading this thread is making me drool!

Can you please share pictures and beamshots when you get it. 4000k is my favorite tint and I’m having a hard time deciding between the E07 and the D4S with the XPL HI 4000k

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csteene wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Waiting for my E07 with XPL HI 4,000K.

Reading this thread is making me drool!

Can you please share pictures and beamshots when you get it. 4000k is my favorite tint and I’m having a hard time deciding between the E07 and the D4S with the XPL HI 4000k

E07
+Slimmer
+More efficient at same brightness
+More floody with stock optic
+Has clip
+Stainless bezel
+Anduril
?Uses 21700
?Lighted Switch
?No Magnet option

D4S
+More throwy with stock optic and more power to each LED
+Can change optic to floody if you buy it separately
+Has magnet or no magnet tail
-No clip, but probably too thick anyways
?Better build track record
?Has pins to reflash
?Slightly shorter

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I really Like the E07 design but I have a D4S flashed with Andúril and If these missplaced screw and snipped off optic legged E07s keep popping up and they did not made a longer tube to fit cells better I will stick to my D4S.

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So, did anyone actually try to get different optics? If I get one I would like it to be a little throwier.

contactcr wrote:
https://m.alibaba.com/product/60729280709/LED-module-lens-7-in-1.html?sp...

This looks similar and claims to have 10,15,20 degree.

djozz wrote:
^ it is a bit different but not that much. It could fit though…

!{width:50%}https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1RJc5dzgy_uJjSZPx761nNpXaF/223299030/HTB1R...!

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Muggle mode is a mode to put the light in before handing it to a child or anyone else who is likely to use the light in unsafe ways. It's simpler and can't go very bright.

 

Very good idea actually, thank you for that.

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kanton wrote:
So, did anyone actually try to get different optics? If I get one I would like it to be a little throwier.

contactcr wrote:
https://m.alibaba.com/product/60729280709/LED-module-lens-7-in-1.html?sp...

This looks similar and claims to have 10,15,20 degree.

djozz wrote:
^ it is a bit different but not that much. It could fit though…

!{width:50%}https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1RJc5dzgy_uJjSZPx761nNpXaF/223299030/HTB1R...!

No one has tried it yet. If it is compatible, would be awesome with 10 degree optics, which is same as that in the D4S but with 7 emitters, E07 will out throw D4S. Also with White Flat, it can potentially throw 200kcd since D4S throws 120+kcd.

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Ledil Angie (D4S) is 12 degrees

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contactcr wrote:

E07
+Slimmer
+More efficient at same brightness
+More floody with stock optic
+Has clip
+Stainless bezel
+Anduril
?Uses 21700
?Lighted Switch
?No Magnet option

D4S
+More throwy with stock optic and more power to each LED
+Can change optic to floody if you buy it separately
+Has magnet or no magnet tail
-No clip, but probably too thick anyways
?Better build track record
?Has pins to reflash
?Slightly shorter

The E07 has :
Vias on the battery side to (re)flash the MCU (don’t know if desoldering the Aux LED PCB first is part of the process).
Clean machining. Deep fins + 10mm head shelf for LED MCPCB (FireFlies was prompt to listen BLF members to modify their prototypes) for better heat management. Unpredictable assembly quality.

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… received my E07 today. I got the SST20 10W NW 4000K CRI95 and am rather pleased with the tint! Someone mentioned it would be tad on the green side but I don’t see that. What an amazing light to sit down and tinker with. I was overwhelmed at first but I received an instruction sheet as well as the flow diagram. I think I’m ok with most of it Wink Lights surely have progressed. I like lots of options, special UIs, flashes, the whole works. In this I have that. I got a black body and supposedly blue AUX LEDs but they look purple which I like better. This thing just smacks of quality, nice bezel, threads are great! WHY do I find myself wanting more of these E07s? Price is really fair IMHO.

question: do I need to worry about leaving the AUX LEDs on in the blinky mode, I’m running a 30Q?

GREAT JOB FIREFLIES!!!!!

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I think I’m going to have longer of a wait than I expected after paying extra for expedited 5-8 day shipping. It’s been a week and it still hasn’t shipped. I should not have paid extra. Facepalm

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Interesting light. I’ve skimmed through the thread but can’t find any details on the driver board, only the aux LED board. What is the diameter of the driver board? Easy to get to and replace?

Also, from the photos of the front with aux board, it looks like the LEDs are on a normal PCB under the aux board. Is this a standard PCB or copper MCPCB? I haven’t seen any info about that either.

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Remember too, when they say 10º or 12º they’re talking half angle, it takes 3º or less for a thrower style beam. Just sayin…

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