Fireflies E07 preview

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Firelight2
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trailhunter wrote:
My e07 just arrived from flights. Beautiful finish but….

My light is making clicking sounds and it continues even after its turned off. I can only think it’s related to heat but now I’m concerned about safety. Does anyone else have this issue?

My first E07 made some clicking sounds, usually after being turn on for awhile.

It’s harmless. Just expansion of parts or air inside the bezel. After redoing the thermal compound on the star, my first E07 the clicking sounds are gone. And my second E07 never clicked in the first place.

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@TK

is it true the nichia E07 has a different firmware?
or is it just different setting?
or just a myth?

 

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DB Custom wrote:
Right, so the fact that the issues are relatively minor as far as how easy it is to fix them goes makes it very appealing that Fireflies will adapt the small changes necessary and the light will be as epic as it appears to be.

However, stating “facts” about a mushy switch that can’t be tolerated on the heels of stating this issue was keeping the individual from buying one made me wonder how he/she knew exactly how it felt, how they came to the conclusion that it felt so back they wouldn’t buy one? Mine clicks just fine, the slight mushiness is so shallow that it doesn’t impede the switch activation in the least, not on my light anyway. Which is why I was wondering how they knew not to buy it due to a bad switch feel. Mine’s responsive, accurate, I never miss what I’m trying to achieve with it, be that a long press or a double press or a triple press or a quad press or whatever. So if it works, reliably and accurately, I’m at a loss as to why it would prevent someone from purchasing the light.

I’m curious by nature, Why should be my middle name…

Agreed. There’s no way anyone can possibly tell if the switch is too mushy without actually trying it out. For someone to say that the switch is “objectively” worse without actually ever having held the light or tried it just doesn’t pass the smell test.

I also agree with TK. I haven’t really had any significant problems with any rubber switches. They’re usually very simple and reliable.

The worst flashlight switches I’ve tried were the following:

  • I have an early Imalent light from a few years ago that has an infrared sensor for the “switch”. In practice, I found getting it to work would sometimes take 10+ tries. It was awful! Reminded me of someone trying to reinvent the wheel with a square shape just be different. Yuck!
  • My Sunwayman V11R came with the optional Titanium switch kit. The original V11R came with the titanium switch installed, but due to complaints they reverted to using the rubber switch. But they continued to ship the titanium parts in a little baggie as an optional switch. After trying it out I could see why people complained: The titanium switch sat in a titanium housing. Due to the design the switch would tend to tilt slightly. Titanium on Titanium tends to bind. The result: Looked great, but the button got stuck a lot and made a squeaky sound. Not very functional.
  • I’ve occasionally had electronic sideswitches lose their click. This usually happens when the membrane on top of the switch is damaged in a modding attempt. The switch usually still works, but isn’t very satisfying to press without any tactile click.

trailhunter
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Firelight2 wrote:
trailhunter wrote:
My e07 just arrived from flights. Beautiful finish but….

My light is making clicking sounds and it continues even after its turned off. I can only think it’s related to heat but now I’m concerned about safety. Does anyone else have this issue?

My first E07 made some clicking sounds, usually after being turn on for awhile.

It’s harmless. Just expansion of parts or air inside the bezel. After redoing the thermal compound on the star, my first E07 the clicking sounds are gone. And my second E07 never clicked in the first place.

Is there a howto on redoing the thermal paste, how difficult is it and what thermal paste is recommended?

DB Custom
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I checked the count on available SMD emitters and found I was one short on Blue, so Orange it is! Big Smile

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ToyKeeper wrote:
FWIW, I haven’t had any issues with a Fireflies switch, or an Emisar switch, or Olight, or ZebraLight, or Sofirn, or any e-switch with a rubber cover.

After buying my first “real” light (the D4) I bought a Klarus XT2CR where the secondary switch (micro push button) failed after 2 months of every day yet minor use.

DB Custom wrote:
I checked the count on available SMD emitters and found I was one short on Blue, so Orange it is! Big Smile


Which SMD package size are the aux LEDs in the E07 approximately?

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My little camera’s are having trouble with this, might have to break out a big camera…

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trailhunter wrote:
My e07 just arrived from flights. Beautiful finish but….

My light is making clicking sounds and it continues even after its turned off. I can only think it’s related to heat but now I’m concerned about safety. Does anyone else have this issue?

Mine did this also till I loosened the bezel some. I think if it’s torqued down the o-ring heats and expands and contracts causing the pops. After just snugging the bezel it quit and hasn’t done it since

heatwaves
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When I was playing with the strobe mode, I must have accidentally switched the ramping from smooth to stepped. I’ve tried to follow the instructions to get it back to smooth ramping, but I’ve been unsuccessful. Any advice for me to get it back to smooth ramping?

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heatwaves wrote:
When I was playing with the strobe mode, I must have accidentally switched the ramping from smooth to stepped. I’ve tried to follow the instructions to get it back to smooth ramping, but I’ve been unsuccessful. Any advice for me to get it back to smooth ramping?

With the light on click 3 times – that’s it

-MD-
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heatwaves wrote:
When I was playing with the strobe mode, I must have accidentally switched the ramping from smooth to stepped. I’ve tried to follow the instructions to get it back to smooth ramping, but I’ve been unsuccessful. Any advice for me to get it back to smooth ramping?

From on click 3 times.

Also TK wrote an Anduril user manual. It’s very helpful.

https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/view/hea...

saypat
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3 button presses

heatwaves
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Firemedic wrote:
How long total did it take you to get your light? Order-arrived?

That’s tough to gauge. I ordered on December 5th, but in fairness to Fireflies, they said that the “clear” anodized version wouldn’t be available to ship until late December. So in my opinion, they promptly shipped, but the tracking just sucked. Three weeks is a fair assessment as they seem to have shipped as soon as it was available.

DB Custom wrote:
Heatwaves, my tracking also showed the light picked up by a shipping partner in Fremont CA on Dec 24th. Then after almost a week it showed awaiting acceptance in LA. Still showing that, I got notification from my local Post Office that it’s in town and to be delivered tomorrow. Never seen tracking list out like this…

Yeah, the tracking is pretty useless, but the overall timeframe doesn’t seem to be too bad. Did your light arrive?

heatwaves
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shirnask wrote:
heatwaves wrote:
When I was playing with the strobe mode, I must have accidentally switched the ramping from smooth to stepped. I’ve tried to follow the instructions to get it back to smooth ramping, but I’ve been unsuccessful. Any advice for me to get it back to smooth ramping?

With the light on click 3 times – that’s it

Much obliged! That was waaay more simple than I thought it would be.

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BlueSwordM wrote:
I think he discovered himself that the cells are not genuine.

I think he acquired an internal resistance tester after seeing the reports, and saw that some of his 40Ts weren’t 40Ts.

Jacky wouldn’t be selling fake cells voluntarily.

No, I messaged him on Facebook several days ago, and asked him to raise hell with fireflies. He answered me back immediately, which is when I pointed him to all these threads and reddit so he could see what was going on. He had no idea, and I don’t think fireflies did either for that matter.

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Ok then.

Why didn’t they even test the cells when they acquired them?

Especially for cells that cost 15$US.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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is it also safe to say the ff 40T with the bottom ring are fakes now?  At full charge IR measures 11 with the AC method on my ff 40T as tested on a SM8124A.  Right now, I'm ok if they are fakes as long as they are safe.

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BlueSwordM wrote:
Ok then.

Why didn’t they even test the cells when they acquired them?

Especially for cells that cost 15$US.

You’d have to ask them why they didn’t test them. I have no idea. But I can “speculate”, that FF had either no idea about fakes, trusted a vendor to be truthful, or they knew and felt confident they wouldn’t get caught. One of the three.

But judging from the convo I had with Neal, he had no idea FF’s was shipping counterfeit batteries to his customers.

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Yeah it’s problematic.

I have an impression Fireflies also paid quite a bit for these cells.

Hope they can get a partial/full refund from the place they bought it from, and refund buyers.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

contactcr
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Firelight i saw a post on reddit where someone got mismatched xp-l hi’s. It may not be tint lottery you might just have two wrong leds. Its actually more likely cuz im not sure it would be obvious in moon unless the cct was way off.

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contactcr wrote:
Firelight i saw a post on reddit where someone got mismatched xp-l hi’s. It may not be tint lottery you might just have two wrong leds. Its actually more likely cuz im not sure it would be obvious in moon unless the cct was way off.
You’re probably right.

My first E07 actually does have two XPL HIs that appear a different tint when looking into the bezel on moonlight mode. It’s instantly obvious.

In any event, I quite like the result. I actually already had mismatched LEDs that I’d modded into a couple my Emisar D4 lights and I really like how it improves the beam.

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Firelight2 wrote:
trailhunter wrote:
My e07 just arrived from flights. Beautiful finish but….

My light is making clicking sounds and it continues even after its turned off. I can only think it’s related to heat but now I’m concerned about safety. Does anyone else have this issue?

My first E07 made some clicking sounds, usually after being turn on for awhile.

It’s harmless. Just expansion of parts or air inside the bezel. After redoing the thermal compound on the star, my first E07 the clicking sounds are gone. And my second E07 never clicked in the first place.

I bet the clicking is due to the extra hot pcb not making good contact. The heat is causing the pcb to flex, pushing on the optic/aux pcb, causing the clicking. Something like that.

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I bet the clicking is due to the extra hot pcb not making good contact. The heat is causing the pcb to flex, pushing on the optic/aux pcb, causing the clicking. Something like that.

I wondered the same thing . Gotta be some flexing there .

Dang it , why can’t I make the quote work right ! Facepalm

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@DB Custom: I should have stated I own a ROT66 and assume the switches are the same. Edit: after closer looking the E07 switch seems to protrude a bit and have some kind of ribbing on it, can anyone who has both lights tell if they are the same or different. Why it would withhold me from buying? Because I’m a perfectionist and spoiled by both the ZL switches and the shimmed switches of the Clemence’s E21A Wizard’s ; )

When using the ROT in both winter and climbing gloves I feel and hear no click at all while clicking the Wizard is very responsive by both feeling the switch through the gloves.

virence.com rosy 3500K R9080 Wizard Pro, MF01 Mini 4000K R9080 (needs more 219B), super rosy 3000K E21A mix Skilhunt H04 on it's way

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If you are a perfectionist: the E07 is not perfect as you probably already read on this forum. It is a great design en very desirable but it is a new flashlight that has some significant shortcomings still. Apart from that, I do not think that Fireflies can maintain the consistent production tolerances of Zebralight. Nothing wrong with that but if you are finicky about the exact feel of the switch button, buying the E07 may be a lucky dip Party

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M4D M4X wrote:

@TK

is it true the nichia E07 has a different firmware?
or is it just different setting?
or just a myth?

I only have the FF E07 Nichia 219B (ordered from Neal), but using my “shine light thru a portable USB fan blades” method, I notice that on Turbo mode, NoPWM is detected, same as the Regulated mode (first insert battery into the flashlight).

Unlike the D4S (I’ve tested the D4S with Nichia 219C and the D4S with XPL-Hi).
On the D4S with Nichia 219C, even Turbo mode will show PWM using the “portable fan” method. (Only the regulated mode will have NoPWM)
On the D4S with XPL-Hi, Turbo mode will have NoPWM (also NoPWM on the “regulated” mode).

This would imply that the E07 Nichia 219B didn’t have a multiplier value (75% or 80% on the D4S Nichia 219C) on Turbo mode. (Or could this be only on the early batch E07 Nichia 219B?)

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Yournamehere90 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I should probably check my E07 too. I’ve been avoiding soldering though, because all my solder tips are dead or very close to dead. I need to get some new ones, and maybe figure out how to make them last longer.

Can you elaborate on the dead tips? I’m really not good with soldering and don’t know much about it. I’ve been using a Weller brand solder station at work and have to crank it to 800 or 850 to even melt the solder on the MCPCB. Does that mean the tip is bad? I thought they were just pieces of metal.

have you tried cleaning your tip?
It does take a while.
Here is good video about it

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I wanted to clean up the huge solder blob on the driver spring on my e07 lights, and I figured I would snap a picture the best I could while I had the driver opened up.

After cleaning the solder blob on the driver spring there is more space for the battery.

I also learned the shelf the LED MCPCB sits on is very thick, must be almost 10mm thick.  I also appreciate how well the PCB boards are made, the feel really high quality compared to some of the others I have seen.


IMG_20190123_183941.jpg



IMG_20190123_183944.jpg




IMG_20190123_190041.jpg



IMG_20190123_190042.jpg

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Firelight2 wrote:
Adhara wrote:
…Not nearly as confusing as the retorts praising what would be defects to most as some kind of advantage in the light…
I assume you’re talking about my earlier comments on the heatpath from the star. I had previously commented that having a worse heatpath can sometimes be an advantage, and might be so in the E07.

That was based on my own experience modding small hotrod lights.

A few years ago I modded a DQG Tiny III into a small triple with a FET driver. It was extremely bright, but became extremely hot. This heat didn’t appear to be a danger to the LEDs, driver or battery. They were fine and seemed to have no trouble taking the heat. No… the problem was that the head became so hot the light was extremely dangerous to hold. You could burn your fingers with it just trying to turn it off if it accidentally turned on.

To address this, I eventually built a sleeve made of aluminum and then coated it with paint and brush-on super glue to wrap around the head. I doubt the sleeve helped heat transmission at all since the exterior glue was insulating. But it DID have the effect of allowing the user to hold and use the light for a longer period of time before having to manually ramp down. In that respect it was helpful.

In a more recent example we have lights with optional copper heads like the Emisar D4 or Astrolux S41 or S42. In my experience, having a solid copper head is considerably LESS useful than having an anodized aluminum head. This is the case even though aluminum can’t hold as much heat as copper and is less good at transmitting heat from the LED.

Why? … same reason as on my DQG. Copper gets dangerously hot to the touch extremely fast and my hand can’t take nearly as much heat as the LED inside the light. I’ve found that I sometimes cannot run a light with a copper head at turbo for as long as I can with an aluminum head light if the light is of a type where my hand needs to touch the copper.

For the E07 I was concerned that any benefits from improving the heatsinking might be countered by too much extra heat transmission to my hands… with the result that max practical output would actually be lower.

However, this was based on the assumption that the extra heat wasn’t having any effect on the LEDs. After reading a couple reports in this thread from people reporting diminished peak output, I changed my mind in regards to this specific light and did go ahead and fix the stars on both my E07s.


I think there are 2 things in that.
First, thermal path between LED and fingers is short, so temp difference is small. This is good for the LED durability and efficiency. This is good for sustained performance. This is not good for Turbo – because material close to the LED doesn’t heat up quite as much (and therfore – doesn’t store as much heat).
Second – the thermal path to your fingers is way shorter than to some other parts of the light. Suddently the thermal barrier of threads becomes a much bigger part of the setup and less heat spreads there before the head becomes too hot.

I believe the best of both worlds is to have as much conductivity as possible…but thermally insulate the touch points, especially near the shelf. Note that you don’t need to insulate untouchable parts like (near-) bottom of deep fins.
And furthermore – to have as few barriers as possible, so heat can spread easier. Unibody is a win…

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Netprince, How did you pop the driver out and are you extending the led wires from driver to make it easier to re assemble?

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