Fireflies E07 preview

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netprince
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Tally-ho wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:

Here is what it looks like not glued on yet:

Never liked the flat milled for the button on the final prototype. With the ring, it looks more like how they should have recessed it. It looks really nice even with sides not filled down.

I agree, looks great, and I bet it helps locate the button in the dark.

koubak
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I received my E07 with Nichia and red aux. It’s beautiful. From what I’ve seen, the leg of the optic is broken too, so I expect it is one of those from the batch with the few flaws mentioned in this thread, I’ll have to fix the thermal paste issue. The Nichia units are probably all from the first batches anyway.

I have not received my 21700 yet, but couldn’t resist trying the torch out with a 18650 from my EDC Zebra SC600. Not sure why, but I thought 4 clicks from ON would bring me to the special modes, I wanted to try candle and lightning. I was wrong, it’s click/click/hold from OFF. Four clicks from ON led me to the configuration mode, and I am pretty sure I messed up with the floor and ceiling levels before I realized I was there. Is there any way to factory reset Anduril? Will it be the same settings as when the E07 came, or is the E07 set to special configuration?

Firelight2
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Think I’ll go ahead and glue the washer on this weekend. Attaching a washer on a light like this and having it look good requires some care.

  • First step is to remove battery and cover every part of the light except the switch with gaffers tape. Also make a circle of gaffer’s tape and stick it on top of the button. Make a mess with the epoxy and you might screw up your anodizing permanently. Better to mask everything off to be safe.
  • Second step is to mix the epoxy. For this washer I’ll probably start with arctic silver thermal epoxy. Goal is to put a ring of epoxy inside the washer, but not have it totally filled, especially towards the center of the washer. It’s a mistake to put too much epoxy in as doing so can cause it to squish out to the sides when I press the washer down. Also, if excess glue does squish out I want it to squish to the outside of the ring, not the inside where it can make a mess on the button boot.
  • Once the washer is in place, wipe off any excess on the outside parts of the light and neaten up any visible epoxy with a toothpick.
  • The left and right side of the washer overhang the flashlight body slightly. This isn’t good as something might get caught on the lip and potentially break the glue knocking the washer off. To prevent this I plan to add epoxy filling in that gap. However, this will leave a small amount of epoxy completely visible on each side.
  • It is possible that the Arctic Silver epoxy is a bit too dark grey to match with the very shiny aluminum. To preserve the aesthetic I will probably add a layer of shinier epoxy covering any sections of visible epoxy. I have some conductive silver epoxy which should work.
  • Wait for the epoxy to cure, check that no further touchup is required, then remove the gaffer’s tape.
klrman
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koubak wrote:
I received my E07 with Nichia and red aux. It's beautiful. From what I've seen, the leg of the optic is broken too, so I expect it is one of those from the batch with the few flaws mentioned in this thread, I'll have to fix the thermal paste issue. The Nichia units are probably all from the first batches anyway. I have not received my 21700 yet, but couldn't resist trying the torch out with a 18650 from my EDC Zebra SC600. Not sure why, but I thought 4 clicks from ON would bring me to the special modes, I wanted to try candle and lightning. I was wrong, it's click/click/hold from OFF. Four clicks from ON led me to the configuration mode, and I am pretty sure I messed up with the floor and ceiling levels before I realized I was there. Is there any way to factory reset Anduril? Will it be the same settings as when the E07 came, or is the E07 set to special configuration?

 

I'm pretty sure there is no factory reset in Anduril.

koubak
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Thanks. Then maybe I can try to reset floor and ceiling to their original settings. Can anyone tell me what they are by default?

DB Custom
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Ceiling default is 120, I think floor is 1.

klrman
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koubak wrote:
Thanks. Then maybe I can try to reset floor and ceiling to their original settings. Can anyone tell me what they are by default?

 

Ceiling is set to 120 out of 150

Floor is set to 20

 

^^ Dale is probably right as I just used defaults from the Anduril manual and he would know more for sure

DB Custom
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I had thoughts that floor may be set to 3 by default, not 100% sure there but I am pretty sure TK said ceiling was set at 120.

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The default values for the E07 are in the PL47 config file.

Smooth: 1 – 120
Stepped: 10 – 120 / 7

The stepped values were chosen to make sure the highest regulated level would be included. It’s step 5 of 7.

Tally-ho
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When the battery (samsung 30Q) is 3.6V, in lowest mode, my E07 nichia is blinking some sort of “lightning storm” when floor is set below 6.
My PL47 is fine with a floor set to 3 and same battery at 3.6V.

I will probably be fine with a floor at 6 but is there a way to fix this, please ?

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That sounds like a HW issue to me… Do you have the same emitters in both your PL47 and EO7?

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Firelight2 wrote:
Think I’ll go ahead and glue the washer on this weekend. Attaching a washer on a light like this and having it look good requires some care.
  • First step is to remove battery and cover every part of the light except the switch with gaffers tape. Also make a circle of gaffer’s tape and stick it on top of the button. Make a mess with the epoxy and you might screw up your anodizing permanently. Better to mask everything off to be safe.
  • Second step is to mix the epoxy. For this washer I’ll probably start with arctic silver thermal epoxy. Goal is to put a ring of epoxy inside the washer, but not have it totally filled, especially towards the center of the washer. It’s a mistake to put too much epoxy in as doing so can cause it to squish out to the sides when I press the washer down. Also, if excess glue does squish out I want it to squish to the outside of the ring, not the inside where it can make a mess on the button boot.
  • Once the washer is in place, wipe off any excess on the outside parts of the light and neaten up any visible epoxy with a toothpick.
  • The left and right side of the washer overhang the flashlight body slightly. This isn’t good as something might get caught on the lip and potentially break the glue knocking the washer off. To prevent this I plan to add epoxy filling in that gap. However, this will leave a small amount of epoxy completely visible on each side.
  • It is possible that the Arctic Silver epoxy is a bit too dark grey to match with the very shiny aluminum. To preserve the aesthetic I will probably add a layer of shinier epoxy covering any sections of visible epoxy. I have some conductive silver epoxy which should work.
  • Wait for the epoxy to cure, check that no further touchup is required, then remove the gaffer’s tape.

I have been glueing my washers down with Goop. I use a tooth pick to apply a very small amount around the switch, push the washer down into it and let it set up overnight. While I have removed some washers, it takes some prying. It definitely will not come off on it’s own. The nice thing is that it is a completely reversible procedure. Once the washer is off, the Goop is easy to remove with your finger nail. No damage to the finish.
http://eclecticproducts.com/amazing-goop-all-purpose.html
Tally-ho
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Cereal_killer wrote:
That sounds like a HW issue to me… Do you have the same emitters in both your PL47 and EO7?

Yes, nichia 219B.
The E07 flickerings are bright flashes like the “lightning storm” mode, contrary to the low flickering of the PL47 when floor is set below 3.
Don’t know if it is a bug which activate the lightning storm as the flickerings in lowest mode are really looking like this strobe mode.
koubak
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Thanks a lot for all the answers about the levels. So if I understand correctly, I have to go into Ramp Configuration, wait for the first flash, click once, then wait for the second flash and click 120 times?

I’m very pleased with this light. I don’t know if it lacks thermal paste, but it heats up immediately when I’m in Turbo (Nichia version), so I guess there is still some decent dissipation. I’ll still have to check before really abusing the turbo mode.

The red auxiliary leds are beautiful, and it seems that the low voltage ones are purple in my case, which makes a great combination with the purple switch. I wish I could force the inner low voltage auxiliary leds to stay on.

This is my first Anduril light. I had one with Narsil before (BLF Q8), and I knew both UIs are great, but I have to say I love Anduril a lot more. I believe it is much more flexible, easy to remember, and it is always the best compromise in terms of number of clicks or click combinations to use specific features. It is obvious that everything has been carefully designed, the possibilities are very comprehensive. Being able to go into smooth ramp from the floor or the ceiling, the way the memory works for turbo/ramp/special modes, the adjustable frequency of the strobes, the candle and lightning modes, the muggle mode, the lockout still allowing some low light. There are really a number of advantages compared to Narsil in my opinion, and I’m very grateful to ToyKeeper for this amazing work.

contactcr
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koubak wrote:
Thanks a lot for all the answers about the levels. So if I understand correctly, I have to go into Ramp Configuration, wait for the first flash, click once, then wait for the second flash and click 120 times?

Floor: yes click once, but if it flickers on the lowest level try 3 instead

Ceiling: no click 150-120 = click 30 times, I believe it counts down from the top.

koubak
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Perfect, thanks. I’ll try that.

Firelight2
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Glued the finishing washer on last night.

Used epoxy so this is permanent. Removing it would probably damage the finish. Didn’t see the post about Goop till I’d already done it.

Still the final result looks pretty good. The gap below the sides of the washer are covered by tiny bits of aluminum strip. It hides the glue and makes the light look like it was manufactured this way.

Here are some pictures:

M4D M4X
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that looks really cool!

 

 

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ToyKeeper
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contactcr wrote:
Ceiling: no click 150-120 = click 30 times, I believe it counts down from the top.

Almost. It’s 151 – N = click 31 times. Smile

(because 1 click is 150, 2 clicks is 149, 3 clicks is 148, …)

pennzy
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Firelight2 wrote:
Glued the finishing washer on last night.

Used epoxy so this is permanent. Removing it would probably damage the finish. Didn’t see the post about Goop till I’d already done it.

Still the final result looks pretty good. The gap below the sides of the washer are covered by tiny bits of aluminum strip. It hides the glue and makes the light look like it was manufactured this way.

Here are some pictures:

!{width:70%}https://i.imgur.com/z6vjLyT.jpg!


Looks good.
G.P.
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Received my three E07 lights today. I was worried with all of the issues that have been reported, but I’m very happy with mine. I purchased a clear, black and tan.

None of them seem to have sharp fins to me. They can kind of grip your skin occasionally, but I would never have considered them sharp if I hadn’t read it here. I’ve tried to give myself a scrape or a cut and I can’t do it.

Switch feels similar to my Rot 66. Prefer the defined click of the Emisar lights, but I wouldn’t call it an “issue” on the FF lights.

One leg optic is broken off (on purpose) on two of them. One has no screw on the circuit board and all 4 legs on the optic are in place.

All of my batteries fit in them just fine. I do lots of research to try and always get genuine cells.

I got one of the last purple/blue aux emitters before the option was taken down. It looks WAY better with the purple switch than the all blue imo. Wish I could shut off the switch leds on those two.

Fit and finish is great on all three. I love the rougher anodizing texture on the Black and Tan version. I wish Emisar still offered the grainy options that they used to. For some reason to me a smooth and shiny finish just reminds me of a cheap Walmart light, and the grainy finish looks and feels like a quality light that the military would use.

I love the real low moonlight. Much better than my D4s flashlights.

Only complaint is that the AUX LEDs were too bright for a nightstand light. Thanks to this thread I turned them down and I’m happy now. Just wish I could turn the switch down of off now.

So I’m not sure if FF is listening and upping the QC, or if I’m just less picky than some people. Either way, I’m very happy.

koubak
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When in Lockout mode, I noticed that sometimes the auxiliary LED stay on, sometimes they are off, and sometimes they blink slowly (short duration on, long duration off). Sometimes, the pattern even changes without quitting the lockout mode: pressing the switch once to enable the temporary moonlight can alter the pattern; but not always. Has anyone found out what determines the pattern in a reproducible way?

[Edit] Seems that if the auxiliary LEDs turn off after a temporary moonlight in lockout, three fast clicks will re-enable the auxiliary slow blinking. After a few seconds, it turned on permanently again… Except it turned of after a moonlight again, and then permanently on again after a few seconds without any clicks. Weird.

DB Custom
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The pattern of the Aux LED’s is dialed in through clicks of the switch button. If they change and you haven’t changed them, there is a problem.

contactcr
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3 clicks while locked out will cycle through the aux LED modes. Like Dale said, if that happens when you arent pressing anything then Question

koubak
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Where can I find the instructions on how to alter the pattern? Maybe I’m randomly doing the procedure.

[Edit] Oh, I see. Thanks. So it’s 3 fast clicks while in lockout and it cycles through Off/On/Blinking, right? Maybe I was just using moonlight with 3 or more fast clicks and altering the setting by mistake.

contactcr
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DB Custom
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I would imagine that to the be case koubak, running through the momentary press to fire up moon mode too quickly will be counted as clicks to change the Auxiliaries.

koubak
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Yes, that was it I think. Thanks a lot. I was just using the Andúril UI diagram and I missed the detailed information. For reference:

Quote:
Aux LEDs / Button LEDs
———————————
Aux LEDs / Button LEDs
———————————

Some lights have aux LEDs or button LEDs. These can be configured to do
different things while the main emitters are off. There is one aux LED
mode for the regular “off” mode, and another aux LED mode for “lockout”
mode. This allows the user to see at a glance whether the light is
locked.

Aux LED modes typically include:

– Off – Low – High – Blinking

To configure the aux LEDs, go to the mode you want to configure and then
click the button a few times:

– Off mode: 7 clicks. – Lockout mode: 3 clicks.

This should change the aux LEDs to the next mode supported on this
light.

For lights with a button LED, the button LED typically stays on while
the main emitters are on. Its brightness level is set in a way which
mirrors the main LED — off, low, or high.

For lights with front-facing aux LEDs, the aux LEDs typically stay off
when the main emitters are on, and when the light is otherwise awake.
The aux LEDs on most lights only turn on when the light is asleep.
Some lights have aux LEDs or button LEDs. These can be configured to do
different things while the main emitters are off. There is one aux LED
mode for the regular “off” mode, and another aux LED mode for “lockout”
mode. This allows the user to see at a glance whether the light is
locked.

Aux LED modes typically include:

– Off – Low – High – Blinking

To configure the aux LEDs, go to the mode you want to configure and then
click the button a few times:

– Off mode: 7 clicks. – Lockout mode: 3 clicks.

This should change the aux LEDs to the next mode supported on this
light.

For lights with a button LED, the button LED typically stays on while
the main emitters are on. Its brightness level is set in a way which
mirrors the main LED — off, low, or high.

For lights with front-facing aux LEDs, the aux LEDs typically stay off
when the main emitters are on, and when the light is otherwise awake.
The aux LEDs on most lights only turn on when the light is asleep.

Unfortunately I don’t think there is a high and low mode on the E07, and auxiliary LED intensity seems to be set just with the potentiometers. If there’s a way to force the low voltage LEDs with Andúril, please shout here. Shocked

contactcr
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it’s only via the pots. That’s how the aux board was designed. If I recall this gives the ability to even out the intensity when using multiple colors (via the pots), have special low voltage signal, etc at the expense of using the MCU to just pwm the brightness.

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Ok, my new 40t from imr batteries arrived today and they are very different. The 40t from fireflies has different writing, ring around the negative, and is actually longer Facepalm im doing a few tests on my opus charger to see what I see.

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