Fireflies E07 preview

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DB Custom
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Lockout in this light has nothing to do with ano, the pcb in the tail cap has to touch the tube, it’s not about the threads at all. Wink

lotrbfme
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For those of you with the E07 and the D4S, is the D4S significantly more throwy? I dont find my E07 throwy.

BlueSwordM
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The E07 is quite a bit throwier than the E07.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

saypat
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BlueSwordM wrote:
The E07 is quite a bit more throwy than the E07.



thank you!

Tom E
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Dale - true, I see the PCB is isolated from the tailcap. The E07 sure does have a big hot spot. The Amutorch X9 is much tighter, but of course it's got 3 reflectors, bout the same width optics/glass.

lotrbfme
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BlueSwordM wrote:
The E07 is quite a bit throwier than the E07.

Were you trying to be funny or forgot to replace one word with the other? XD

Overload
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Battcheck on my E07 isn’t working correct…It says that the voltage is 0.2V higher than it is in reality.
So, if the batterie is 3.91V, battcheck tells me it is 4.1v(4 flashes—>pause—>1flash), tested it with different batteries
Battcheck on my PL47 is working correct

Firemedic
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Yea, I have a meter, battery charger, and light that tell me the voltage and they all give me slightly different numbers.

Tom E
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There's some significant variation from driver to driver (MCU and diode), so each light should be individually calibrated for it's voltage reading to get it precise. I don't see it in the Anduril manual here, not sure I missed it. For the most part, a 0.2V difference won't make a big difference in LVP - LVP will still work fine, just on yours it will kick in on 2.6V instead of 2.8V which is still safe for the battery.

If we used a voltage divider in the design of the driver, it would be more accurate from piece to piece but a higher parasitic drain and we lose a very valuable I/O pin.

I got a unique custom configured diode voltage drop setting per flashlight I mod with NarsilM, adjusted to 1/100th of a volt. I can get it pretty accurate by sampling with a bench PS or using a few batteries at different levels.

Calibrating temp and voltage is something I really need to get in to the NarsilM UI, or Anduril at this point. It's a pain to re-flash for these adjustments.

 

mihlit
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I’ve just got 21700 batteries I ordered a long time ago.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Vapcell-21700-4500mAh-20A-Rechargeable-L...

red Vapcell 4500mAh 20A

Flat top and button top
Width is ok
Button top is way too long, as expected
Flat top works, but gets slightly crushed

koubak
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I received my 21700 50E today too. It would be too long on the vanilla E07, but fits perfectly after the copper wire trick to extend the tube by 1.5 mm (described in a video posted in this thread).

koubak
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Overload wrote:
Battcheck on my E07 isn’t working correct…It says that the voltage is 0.2V higher than it is in reality.
So, if the batterie is 3.91V, battcheck tells me it is 4.1v(4 flashes—>pause—>1flash), tested it with different batteries
Battcheck on my PL47 is working correct

In my case it seems to be the opposite, the E07 underestimates the battery voltage by 0.2V compared to the XSTAR charger. I haven’t tested multiple batteries yet though.
Tom E
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There isn't much left to a battery under 3.2V, so the firmware uses 2.8V as the LVP mark, so if you are under 0.3 or over by 0.4, not much of a difference. Personally I find it annoying that the reading is off though, so prefer it being calibrated tight. I just wish I knew back when that the voltage divider method was so much more accurate and reliable than the internal reference source we use now, but saving that I/O pin enables us to do all the neat stuff we do with AUX LED's and having 3 input channels to control: FET+bank+1 for better regulation.

I think the greatest source of variance is the diode we use to protect against reverse polarity. The MCU may be partially responsible as well.

DB Custom
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The thing is though, not to get too disturbed by that small variation in the battery check… the light will be dimming long before those tenths matter and you’ll already know you need to charge the cell so in the long run it isn’t important.

I don’t use the battery check, I mean, once in a while I’ll run it just playing with the modes but I rely on my cells being fully charged and so will stick a new one in or recharge the one in it before use. I just don’t ever really take a cell down to the cut off point, not how I use a light.

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Tom E wrote:
Calibrating temp and voltage is something I really need to get in to the NarsilM UI, or Anduril at this point. It’s a pain to re-flash for these adjustments.

On my personal lights, I used to calibrate the voltage on a per-light basis. However, I haven’t bothered with that lately because I find it normally doesn’t matter to me.

If really accurate calibration is desired though, maybe we could add something? I’ve considered putting the values into eeprom instead of hard-coding them, but then it would need a way to edit the value. This seems like a good use case for the optic nerve — directly editing values in eeprom. However, I haven’t really messed with that lately, and it uses an I/O pin, and it’s not physically implemented on most lights.

So… how would you ideally want it to work?

Tom E
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Was think'n when you are in the mode of displaying the voltage, maybe something like you do now, not sure, but a press&hold in this state or something would trigger a config mode, then simply press 4 clicks, then 18 clicks for 4.18V for example. Now 3.98V would be a total pain. Not sure if you go to 100ths, but I do in NarsilM. Again, I'm probably overly precise (i.e. anal) about the accuracy but it's nice knowing. I don't blink out in 100ths but measure and calibrate to 100ths. My DMM's all go to 100ths. Bad/weak batteries under load will drop, but in normal voltage blink out mode, I find the battery measurement to be accurate.

Same could be done for calibrating temp - when blinking out the temp, same sequence in the UI would trigger config mode - I would optimize clicks though, break them down per digit, so 24C entry is 2 clicks, then 4 clicks, instead of 42 clicks. A pause would be the trigger between digits, then we blink, then the user starts the next digit.

 Maybe the digit trick could be used for the 3 digits of voltage, not sure. I kind of like using a cell that somewhere between 4.00 and 4.20 though so it's a max of 20 clicks. Maybe for consistency, per digit, or is more consistent for both temp and voltage to be 2 sets of #'s? Dunno.

I tell you though, when you get the calib dead-on, and see your blinks follow a rounded value of voltage -- 4.15V blinks 4-2, then 4.14V blinks 4-1, its pretty cool. Yea, I know, anal, but I just got that perfection in me - math over creative, 750 in math SAT, 540 in English SAT, German heritage. I really think somewhere in my ancestry I had a watchmaker or mason who spent their entire life trying to achieve perfection, died poor... Well, that might be the story of my grandfather as a house painter in Manhattan - high end work, never made decent money at it though smile

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Maybe not a watchmaker.
From Wikipedia:
“Tolkien writes that Elves and Dwarves produced the best swords”
Smile

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Tom E wrote:
Calibrating temp and voltage is something I really need to get in to the NarsilM UI, or Anduril at this point. It’s a pain to re-flash for these adjustments.

On my personal lights, I used to calibrate the voltage on a per-light basis. However, I haven’t bothered with that lately because I find it normally doesn’t matter to me.

If really accurate calibration is desired though, maybe we could add something? I’ve considered putting the values into eeprom instead of hard-coding them, but then it would need a way to edit the value. This seems like a good use case for the optic nerve — directly editing values in eeprom. However, I haven’t really messed with that lately, and it uses an I/O pin, and it’s not physically implemented on most lights.

So… how would you ideally want it to work?


Glad you asked. The answer: VOICE RECOGNITION!

We should be able to talk to our flashlights to edit flashlight functions, UI and calibrate the voltage sensor. And if the light doesn’t recognize the voice of the speaker, it automatically enters muggle mode!

This kind of interface should be very natural. After all… most of us probably already talk to our flashlights! EvilEvilEvil

And to make the UI even more intuitive the flashlight should have a personality and talk back to use when we talk to it. Silly
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… just kidding. hahah

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FIRELIGHT2

Love it. Hahaha. If we can dream it MAYBE they can make it! Wink

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ZW99GT
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Thank you guys for the heads up on the fake 40T. I picked up a real one from Li-ion wholesale before reading of the issues and would have never noticed the difference.

That’s incredibly shady of Fireflies. The real thing pumps out a lot more heat, much quicker. I don’t have any way to measure output unfortunately.

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My 40T measured at 23.1 amps on the E07 w/SST-20 4000K's, also from Liionwholesale. Instantly drops of course with the default thermal settings - forgot how to kill it.

Lumens at turn on is 5390 with my old calibration, 4755 with ANSI calibration, roughly 35 kcd throw.

Did you see there Molicel batteries? Not sure how well the perform - bought 1 21700 at 4200 mAh and 2 18650's at 2600 mAh - will test them soon.

 

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ZW99GT wrote:

That’s incredibly shady of Fireflies. The real thing pumps out a lot more heat, much quicker. I don’t have any way to measure output unfortunately.

It might be a shady move from Fireflies. It might also be that they accepted one of the lowest bids and didn’t realize they were buying fakes. In any case, Neal refunded me $6 because he said the fake should be worth about $5. So in the end, I paid $5 for a $5 battery. I’m not upset.

Tom E wrote:

My 40T measured at 23.1 amps on the E07 w/SST-20 4000K’s, also from Liionwholesale.

Did you receive a fake that you can test and compare?

Tom E
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Ahhh, was just gonna say, no, can't fool me smile, but wait... Ok - did buy a pair frown. Just went thru my 21700 inventory and I got 13 cells - 2 Sofirns, 2 Shockli's, 1 Vapcell 1 30T, 2 40T's, 2 iJoys (1st ones I bought). 1 LK, 1 Molicel, 1 50E.

Hhmm, all for just 4 21700 lights, but I can fit them in to a couple 26650 lights.

Yournamehere90
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What’s interesting is that a lot of people are claiming they are Lishen batteries, but all the Lishen 21700 cells I’ve seen are rated for around 12 amps and these fake 40Ts seem to be putting out much more. I know they aren’t Samsung, but I’m curious what they actually are, and how the Fireflies cells perform in instrumented testing.

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LORD NO! It would not recognize what I’m saying like my phone LOL. I think Bluetooth or usb/micro connection computer/phone app. Glasses

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He did the same for me.

Tom E
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Ooops, got Sofirn confused with FireFlies - no, no cells bought from FireFlies.

contactcr
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Yournamehere90 wrote:
What’s interesting is that a lot of people are claiming they are Lishen batteries, but all the Lishen 21700 cells I’ve seen are rated for around 12 amps and these fake 40Ts seem to be putting out much more. I know they aren’t Samsung, but I’m curious what they actually are, and how the Fireflies cells perform in instrumented testing.

Continuous discharge is not the same as what they can do when pulsing @ 0s. They will get hotter and wear out sooner too running them like a 40T

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ZW99GT wrote:
Thank you guys for the heads up on the fake 40T. I picked up a real one from Li-ion wholesale before reading of the issues and would have never noticed the difference. That’s incredibly shady of Fireflies. The real thing pumps out a lot more heat, much quicker. I don’t have any way to measure output unfortunately.

 

I've sent two messages to Fireflies about the two fake 40T's which I got but zero response from them so far in the last couple of weeks. 

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Firemedic wrote:
Ok, my new 40t from imr batteries arrived today and they are very different. The 40t from fireflies has different writing, ring around the negative, and is actually longer Facepalm im doing a few tests on my opus charger to see what I see. !https://i.postimg.cc/kXVL8pq4/8-A5-C25-FB-923-C-419-A-8-FE8-A84904-BB031...!

My second E07 came in today, silver version with XPL-HI 4000K emitters this time. I ordered a Samsung 40T too, from Fireflies. I have no genuine Samsung 40T to compare, but the battery that came from Fireflies has no ring on the negative (just a light round scratch probably caused by the spring when screwing the tail cap). It is not crushed either, probably just the right length. Now, just from the font on the writing, it is really hard to tell if it is a genuine Samsung without anything to compare. It says: “INR21700-40T, Samsung SDI, 2IA2”. Can anyone confirm that all confirmed fakes so far had a real ring (not just a scratch) on the negative?

Other than that, I can’t say I’m a big fan of the silver finish. Someone said earlier he/she feels like the light comes from Walmart with this finish, and I kind of agree. I do know the build quality is actually great and the body is very well designed, but there is a bling bling side with it that I don’t really like. I’d be happy to trade it for a grey one if anyone is interested.

[Edit] Looking at the “21700” digits on your fake 40T, it seems that the font is better on mine. Could you please measure the spacing between the right of the text and the negative end of the battery? It seems to differ significantly between both. I can also see some faint codes elsewhere on the wrap: N40T, IA901, C11, EA, C6, W1B. But they are all very hard to see. The battery weighs 68.2080 g (yeah, it’s an accurate balance :o).

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