Fireflies E07 preview

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Firelight2
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It’s definitely not supposed to do that.

Did you see where the smoke was coming from? Was it coming from an LED or from the group of wires in the center leading to the driver?

Firemedic
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Tried to configure nichia to go as low as xpl, but it will not. On reds and browns is where this nichia pops. But the xpl really puts out this highest highs and lowest lows with a decent color tint

wolfstyle
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Under close examination I saw two extremely small black/ brown spots on one of the LEDs. Got a qtip and alcohol and cleaned them all and was able to remove those spots. Fired it back up and into Turbo and one little wisp of smoke then nothing else. Tried a couple more times and no more smoke. The alcohol also cleaned the optic. Guess a dirty LED was the cause.

Thank for the tip.

Cereal_killer
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How is the light able to keep the MCU controlled switch led’s on while turning the TIR AUX LED’s off? I’d guess in the low AUX LED mode there isn’t enough voltage to switch on the AUX board but there is enough to light the two directly controlled switch led’s? AFAIK they’re on the same circuit with no mechanism to actually control them independently.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

contactcr
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2 are not wired to mcu.

SKV89
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Here are a few more measurements of three more E07 using Samsung 30T.

E07 SST-20 4000k, emitters swapped by Texas_Ace (different batch of SST-20): 4,845 lumens
E07 SST-20 4000k: 4,888 lumens
E07 XP-L HI 4000k v2 5A, heavily used: 6,465 lumens

SKV89 wrote:
I took more measurements and here are the lumen results for 4 different E07:

E07 XP-L HI 6500kQSO VTC6A 6,681; 30T 6,983
E07 XP-L HI 5000kQSO VTC6A 6,551; Vapcell VTC6A 6,379; 30T 6,733; Vapcell 40T 6,810
E07 XP-L HI 5000kQSO VTC6A 6,586; Vapcell VTC6A 6,630; 30T 7,327; Vapcell 40T 7,017; QSO 40T 6,983; LG M50 5,353
E07 219B sw45k 9080 – Vapcell VTC6A 3,707; 30T 4,301 (quickly dropping); Vapcell 40T 3,741; NCR21700A button top 2,828; LG M50 3,233

For some reason, I cannot reproduce the 7,570 lumen measurement again. The unit I measured 7,570 now only makes 7,357 lumens. Not sure if the emitters already degraded from me constantly blasting turbo or is it due to some other reason. I’m surprised the XP-L HI v3 6500k unit is not as bright as one of the XP-L HI v2 5000k unit.

I think the 40T is the ideal battery for the XP-L HI version. For the 219B version, I would think the NCR21700A recessed top with 15A would be the best battery but I don’t have a charger that can charge the recessed top and the soldered button top version adds an incredible amount of resistance. Otherwise the LG M50 is not bad for the 219B. The 40T might be pushing it too hard in the long run.

Also I really like the look of this light. The knurling and the very deep and functional heat fins look great. Most of the weight is in the head of the light where it is needed most for heat sinking. Jack said he designed the final prototype with super thick 8mm shelf. I couldn’t measure it but with the optics removed, it seems the shelf is probably not that thick but without removing the mcpcb and driver I can’t say for sure. But it did look like Fireflies listened to our request to increase surface area and mass in the head for better heat sinking and dissipation.

Machining quality is not as good as the Emisar series but not too bad. The clear anodizing version is OMG beautiful and a must have for anyone’s collection. Now I’m patiently waiting for a copper version.

One suggested improvement is to find or make an optic with larger TIR cups for more focused beam. There’s too much wasted space between the cups. Otherwise, I think the size of this optic can fit 10 cups and emitters for an even more amazing flooder good for 10k real OTF lumens.

Overall, this is the best pocketable EDC I’ve seen to date. It is also BY FAR the brightest single cell production flashlight in the world. It is twice as bright as the previous record holder, which is the Emisar D4S.

Cereal_killer
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contactcr wrote:
2 are not wired to mcu.

Yes I realize 2 are on all the time but in lockout mode there is a aux LED setting which powers the MCU controlled switch LEDs (so all 4 switch led’s are on) yet the TIR LED’s are off.
How is this accomplished? Maybe that’s a Lexel question?

Edit I’ve answered my own question… The window in which the red led’s are on is so small its possible to totally miss it. What had happened was the voltage fell below the setpoint with the light running so when I shut it off and locked it out all AUX LED’s were being commanded on but the TIR boards voltage monitor was keeping them off so only the switch led’s (all 4 of them) were on.

Tl;Dr my battery was dead and I was over thinking it… Check the small things first!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

dotBLF
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Does anyone know of a way to get just an aux emitter board, of say, yellow/ red aux LEDs? Is that something Neal would be able to sell (since he seems to be the only person with alternate options, but I’m also sorta assuming that’s just all pre-stocked…..

Thanks Smile

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[quote=SKV89]Here are a few more measurements of three more E07 using Samsung 30T.

E07 SST-20 4000k, emitters swapped by Texas_Ace (different batch of SST-20): 4,845 lumens
E07 SST-20 4000k: 4,888 lumens
E07 XP-L HI 4000k v2 5A, heavily used: 6,465 lumens

Is that cell safe with the SST-20 4000k emitter?

Firemedic
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Neal told me he was just getting his lights from fireflies directly. I did see a post somewhere here for aux tir boards.

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Firelight2 wrote:
TheAuditor wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
If you have the skills to do so, it’d probably be a good idea to pull out the MCPCB, file it down a bit, and put it back in with better thermal contact. Failing that, it’d probably be a good idea to limit the use of turbo, at least with the high-CRI emitters.

It sounds like the MCPCB is so thick that it can still handle heat reasonably well even with the air gap though… and I think the heat transfers to the driver through the power wires, so the driver activates turbo step-down early enough to generally keep things safe.

So, basically, just keep an eye out for a blue shift, and throttle it back hard if that ever happens. Or if you can, open it up to fix things. Be warned though, some of the work involved in that is somewhat delicate. It’s probably not a good first project, but someone with experience should be able to handle it pretty easily.

Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile
I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.


Or you can just use the light and ignore the “under the hood” issues. It will probably still work fine even without opening it up.

As well as the thermal path issue mine also makes loud cracking sounds. I don’t trust it and therefore won’t use it.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

klrman
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TheAuditor wrote:
As well as the thermal path issue mine also makes loud cracking sounds. I don't trust it and therefore won't use it.

 

Does it still make the loud cracking sounds when the battery is removed?  I have a mateminco that does that with the batteries removed after I have had it turned on for awhile.

Firelight2
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TheAuditor wrote:
As well as the thermal path issue mine also makes loud cracking sounds. I don’t trust it and therefore won’t use it.
My first E01 also made the cracking sounds.

They went away completely when I redid the thermal paste under the star. I think it’s just air expansion in the gap under the star.

Basically, the cracking sounds are harmless. They’re disconcerting, but pose zero danger and do not affect the function of the light.

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TheAuditor wrote:
Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.

That’s an oddly strong reaction. It still generally works fine, and several people have done extensive runtime testing on turbo with no issues, even with the air gap issue. It’s unlikely to actually have any functional issues, even if some of the insides may not be perfect.

I just don’t really understand putting something in the trash because of minor imperfections. Maybe it’s not 100%, maybe it’s 90% or 95% instead… but that’s a long way from zero. Give it a 50E cell to make the air gap irrelevant, and enjoy the extra runtime.

ToyKeeper
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Cereal_killer wrote:
How is the light able to keep the MCU controlled switch led’s on while turning the TIR AUX LED’s off? I’d guess in the low AUX LED mode there isn’t enough voltage to switch on the AUX board but there is enough to light the two directly controlled switch led’s? AFAIK they’re on the same circuit with no mechanism to actually control them independently.

That is actually possible, and in the first version I sent to Fireflies I tried to convince them to include that mode… but they thought it would be confusing and requested a version without the “low” mode instead. So it’s off/on/blinking only.

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My XPL 6500k is still putting out 7000ish lumens but my ROT66 219B has dropped to 2700, I’ve put some more foam in the tailcap, like someone suggested, and it’s back up to 4500ish.

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - https://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLICS_GB

TheAuditor
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ToyKeeper wrote:
TheAuditor wrote:
Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.

That’s an oddly strong reaction. It still generally works fine, and several people have done extensive runtime testing on turbo with no issues, even with the air gap issue. It’s unlikely to actually have any functional issues, even if some of the insides may not be perfect.

I just don’t really understand putting something in the trash because of minor imperfections. Maybe it’s not 100%, maybe it’s 90% or 95% instead… but that’s a long way from zero. Give it a 50E cell to make the air gap irrelevant, and enjoy the extra runtime.

Oh it won’t go in the trash, just in the box where I keep all the kit that is either outdated, or that is useable but with an element of risk. I did use 50E’s with it after the late warning about using 30 and 40T’s. I think other people have expressed their disatisfaction with the product more eloquently than me in this thread. I shall just attempt to get a refund from BG. Its no biggie, its just the risk of buying new products from new companies at a reasonable discount Smile

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

Tom E
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Flashaholics wrote:
My XPL 6500k is still putting out 7000ish lumens but my ROT66 219B has dropped to 2700, I've put some more foam in the tailcap, like someone suggested, and it's back up to 4500ish.

Hhmm, foam in the tailcap? Ohhh - to keep the carrier compressed and tight against the front end contact - makes sense from that perspective. I bypassed the driver spring, but you could also try some light coating of NO-OX-ID on the contact surfaces - spring and ground aluminum rings. The foam though works, sounds like, but the bypass and conductive grease helps also in the long term.

dotBLF
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Thanks Firemedic, I’ll keep hunting!

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contactcr wrote:
You could try this Russian site AEDe uses:

https://eng.e-neon.ru/power-leds/high-power-led/sphwhtl3da0cf4rtw6


$0.673 per emitter? When I see super low prices per emitter on DigiKey, you’ve got to buy a minimum in the hundreds… I guess that’s the same deal?
Tally-ho
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TheAuditor wrote:
Oh it won’t go in the trash, just in the box where I keep all the kit that is either outdated, or that is useable but with an element of risk.

Concerning the mistake about the MCPCB, the E07 is a quite expensive model but it can be used in muggle mode which is fine. Worth the 6 clicks from OFF to test it Thumbs Up
Thank you ToyKepper Beer
..
.
NB : double clicks turn off the light, ceiling and floor are reasonably bright in their respective levels. Perfect for muggles, useful for flashlights aficionados.
Floor should be a tiiny bit lowwerrr.
SKV89
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saypat wrote:
Is that cell safe with the SST-20 4000k emitter?

I would not recommend the 30T for day to day use. I only use it for testing consistency to compare with other lights.

ToyKeeper
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Tally-ho wrote:
muggle mode … Floor should be a tiiny bit lowwerrr.

Generally I aim for about 5 lm as the muggle mode floor. Any lower than that, and people start asking “is this thing on?”. However, on my E07 it looks like the muggle floor is about 9 lumens. So yeah, it should probably be a bit lower.

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Following in the footsteps of others, I’ve swapped emitters to LH351D 5000K W6. This is easily one of my favorites now and have to agree that moonlight looks delicious!

(This is a little blown out, but a good representation of the wall of light the LH315D | 30T combo produces)

netprince
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Cool mod… where is the best place to get those LH351D 5000K W6?

DB Custom
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I actually like the 70 CRI 5000K W6 better than the 80 CRI 5000K U6, just seems whiter to me and that’s what I like. AAAND, more powerful. Big Smile

DigiKey has had them, not sure if they still do… pretty cheap as well. Wink (they show some 720 in stock as of a few seconds ago)

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Dale, you were the inspiration behind this swap, so thanks for showing me the light. Big Smile

I got 35 of them from DigiKey recently.

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[quote=timbo114]Do the cooling fins on your grey unit have chamfered or sharp edges?[/quote]

I just got a gray one last month. The fins are squared off and you can catch your skin on them pretty easily. Meh whatever. I’d be more concerned with how the driver thermal steps down from turbo in under 10 seconds due to the lack of thermal paste that’s been discussed. Fins don’t do much good if it overheats at the mcpcb and driver that quickly don’tcha think. Now we’re talking major design and buld flaw on yet another Fireflies torch.

Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義

DB Custom
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You bet jdh00, really rocks now in output too doesn’t it? Big Smile

Getting em like that, in a quantity, brings the price down to below $2 each, can’t resist when I’m at their site and got 30 last time myself. Really liking these Samsung emitters, funny, that, as I was going to resist trying them at first. lol

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I just a few minutes ago ordered a fairly pricey chunk of Tellurium Copper… in part to make a finned heat sink extension for my E07, seems to need it these days… Wink

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