New Folomov 18650s

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M4D M4X
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I swapped the LED on mine. First to an XPL and then again to an XPL HI.

The hardest part is the cylinder on the bottom of the star is soldered directly on. Heating the star up enough to reflow the LED also causes that cylinder to fall off.

This problem is easily solved, but you might need to adjust your standard reflow technique a bit.

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Firelight2 wrote:
I swapped the LED on mine. First to an XPL and then again to an XPL HI. The hardest part is the cylinder on the bottom of the star is soldered directly on. Heating the star up enough to reflow the LED also causes that cylinder to fall off. This problem is easily solved, but you might need to adjust your standard reflow technique a bit.

Thanks! I swapped in a 219C 4000K hi CRI LED - now does about 600 lumens at turn on and gets warm pretty quick. On my reflow, the brass cylinder thing didn't fall off because I used a hot air gun from above. Went pretty quick. The MCPCB is pretty strange. The batt+/LED+ flows through the MCPCB itself, while the LED- comes through the light's body, so, the MCPCB must be isolated electrically. The anodizing on the shelf isolates it, so don't attempt to sand it down.

 

I'm amazed at the good reviews and claims of the 900 lumens. What happened to honest, technical reviews where #'s are measured, not quoted from manufacturer specs?

Boy, everyone wants in on the action to make $$$. Shame the most popular reviewers are the least technical - they don't even know what they are saying is fabrication. This light has a serious design flaw, way overstated specs, and it's an "Amazon's Choice".

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So if the shelf ano is damaged, the led is bypassed (but not a direct battery short because the battery-minus goes via the driver to the body).
Weird design! I will have some thought about what to do with this light once it comes in. Is the reflector any good? I could swap in one of these new Osram thrower leds.

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djozz wrote:
So if the shelf ano is damaged, the led is bypassed (but not a direct battery short because the battery-minus goes via the driver to the body). Weird design! I will have some thought about what to do with this light once it comes in. Is the reflector any good? I could swap in one of these new Osram thrower leds.

It does give a nice hot spot with the 219C, SMO - looks ok to me.

264
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I might have missed a post concerning the current on turbo. Does anyone know what the actual max current for the flashlight is? I think the specs for absolute max current for the 219D led is 1.8 amps. Anyone know ?

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264 wrote:
I might have missed a post concerning the current on turbo. Does anyone know what the actual max current for the flashlight is? I think the specs for absolute max current for the 219D led is 1.8 amps. Anyone know ?

What the mx current for the 219D is, is not measured yet by anyone. Usually (if you ignore the 50,000 hours lifetime) it is more than what the datasheet says.
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djozz wrote:
264 wrote:
I might have missed a post concerning the current on turbo. Does anyone know what the actual max current for the flashlight is? I think the specs for absolute max current for the 219D led is 1.8 amps. Anyone know ?
What the mx current for the 219D is, is not measured yet by anyone. Usually (if you ignore the 50,000 hours lifetime) it is more than what the datasheet says.

Yes, typically like 50% at least I'd think, and the current isn't listed intentionally - it's not so easy to do with a driver in the tail. It's doable I'm sure, not sure how though, and seems like a big effort, least for me.

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maybe that helps (i was bored Wink )

 

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M4D M4X wrote:

maybe that helps (i was bored Wink )

That helps a lot Martin. Thank you. The 219D led is driven at twice the recommended current by your test. I'll just use turbo in rare instances then. Thumbs Up
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Thanks Martin! Nice setup there, thick cables all around, good use of the clips and tie straps (boy, didn't think of that) and of course our standard BLF UNI-T clamp meter. Good to know it hit 3.6A, probably does lower on a higher Vf LED. I got two 18650S's - one the bezel came off easy so I replaced the LED with a 219C, but the other is stuck tight still - I need more time I suppose to get it off.

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I have a few of those 18650S’s on the way. One should be here Friday I think. I had already planned on swapping the emitter on one, most likely both. I see how hot air is used to reflow the LED. I guess a question would be is it possible and what would be the best method of reflowing with just a soldering iron? I mean I guess I could order a hot air station as I may be able to put it to good use in the future. I just don’t have one right now. All the other reflow’s I have done in the past I have used either a soldering iron or a cast iron skillet on the stove.

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toddcshoe wrote:
I have a few of those 18650S’s on the way. One should be here Friday I think. I had already planned on swapping the emitter on one, most likely both. I see how hot air is used to reflow the LED. I guess a question would be is it possible and what would be the best method of reflowing with just a soldering iron? I mean I guess I could order a hot air station as I may be able to put it to good use in the future. I just don’t have one right now. All the other reflow’s I have done in the past I have used either a soldering iron or a cast iron skillet on the stove.

If you swap out emitters please take some photos of they event. I need all the help I can get if I give it a try.

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264 wrote:
toddcshoe wrote:
I have a few of those 18650S’s on the way. One should be here Friday I think. I had already planned on swapping the emitter on one, most likely both. I see how hot air is used to reflow the LED. I guess a question would be is it possible and what would be the best method of reflowing with just a soldering iron? I mean I guess I could order a hot air station as I may be able to put it to good use in the future. I just don’t have one right now. All the other reflow’s I have done in the past I have used either a soldering iron or a cast iron skillet on the stove.

If you swap out emitters please take some photos of they event. I need all the help I can get if I give it a try.

Will do for sure. I got some info and pics from another thread on this light. I think I got a good handle on it in my head. Now I just have to see if my hands and eyes will cooperate. I think the main concern was that there are two resistors and a post that makes contact with the battery also on the MCPCB. Other than making sure those don’t fall off as you are reflowing, everything else should go as normal. I was going to use a few different sized alligator clips to hold all the parts in place as I heat the board to remove and replace the emitter. As soon as the solder solidifies again I should be able to remove my little clips and everything should stay in place. If my eyes hold up on me I should be okay. Getting older with already bad eyesight in general really sucks. Smile

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toddcshoe wrote:
264 wrote:
toddcshoe wrote:
I have a few of those 18650S’s on the way. One should be here Friday I think. I had already planned on swapping the emitter on one, most likely both. I see how hot air is used to reflow the LED. I guess a question would be is it possible and what would be the best method of reflowing with just a soldering iron? I mean I guess I could order a hot air station as I may be able to put it to good use in the future. I just don’t have one right now. All the other reflow’s I have done in the past I have used either a soldering iron or a cast iron skillet on the stove.

If you swap out emitters please take some photos of they event. I need all the help I can get if I give it a try.

Will do for sure. I got some info and pics from another thread on this light. I think I got a good handle on it in my head. Now I just have to see if my hands and eyes will cooperate. I think the main concern was that there are two resistors and a post that makes contact with the battery also on the MCPCB. Other than making sure those don’t fall off as you are reflowing, everything else should go as normal. I was going to use a few different sized alligator clips to hold all the parts in place as I heat the board to remove and replace the emitter. As soon as the solder solidifies again I should be able to remove my little clips and everything should stay in place. If my eyes hold up on me I should be okay. Getting older with already bad eyesight in general really sucks. Smile

What about applying a little super glue on the components to hold them?
Can easily dissolve it later if need be.
Just a thought.

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I used a hot air station so can't give you much advice. I took the pics below. From what someone else said, the bottom post seems to be soldered on, but I don't know myself because on mine, it stayed in place from the reflow. I dunno what that black stuff is around the post though - looks strange to me. If you use an iron, or a torch (I've used a torch before for reflowing, just have to be careful and keep your distance with it), even if the solder for the resistors melt, as along as you are near level, they will stay in place fine.

 

Only way I can think of using an iron would be to first remove the post, then heat up the MCPCB below the LED - may take a while and probably need to wet the iron tip, but dunno, you may have a mess there to get the post re-connected. There's some risks for sure, which is why I saw the hot air station as the best option. I'm doing all my reflows with hot air now, but I have to really crank up the temp to like 480 F to get the heat through a decent MCPCB if done from below, but even from the top it's tough because the copper MCPCB's are so efficient in conducting that heat away.

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I reflowed with generic iron with flat tip and didn’t remove the post. Nothing felt off. I’ll share pictures later.

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P_20181130_180119_LLP_20181130_181323_vHDR_OnP_20181130_180227_LL

UPS just dropped off my new flashlight about an hour ago. The Folomov included battery is happily charging  at one amp. I used a battery I just had sitting around to test out the flashlight. My photos do not do justice to how yellow/orange the beam tint is. So far no dreaded blue shift. I really like how small the flashlight is. I would like the smaller flashlights posted earlier but hey this was a good price. My first small 18650 flashlight. I like it so much I purchased one more. I am weak. Getting used to the UI but no problem. The free charger also arrived.laughing

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Just got a second 18650S and it does the same thing. Highest setting turns bright white then a blue halo comes in at about 1 to 2 seconds then it dims slightly. Exactly as my first one does. Weird. At some point I will change the emmiters. Everything else works great just as long as I don’t use the highest setting.

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Muto wrote:
…What about applying a little super glue on the components to hold them?
Can easily dissolve it later if need be.
Just a thought.
That won’t work.

In my experience, super glue tends to melt when the temperature of the part it’s glued to is hot enough to melt solder. If you try gluing those parts on with super glue, you’ll probably just end up with a sticky mess and it will still fall apart.

Keeping the resistors from falling off is easy… just keep the star rightside up. The only hard part is the post. I used a hot air reflow station and the post still fell off. Fortunately, I didn’t have much trouble putting it back on using my vise arrangement.

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I wonder if this light could be converted to a triple

From prior posts, it looks like it pulls around 3.6 amps and that’s with resistors. Would it be possible to replace the stock star with a chopped down triple star without the resistors for even more output? I’m not sure it would work, but if it did it might make a nice pocket rocket.

Hard part would be getting the star to fit together with its oddly place negative wire, positive post and screw holes. Might be easier to install a copper heatsink below the triple star. Also without the screws, the battery spring would be pressing directly on the lens, which isn’t a good way to have a long lasting light.

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I have not used turbo for more than five seconds at a time. What is the shortest time used by others that causes the dreaded blue shift? Also in those five seconds you can feel the flashlight get warm.

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264 wrote:
I have not used turbo for more than five seconds at a time. What is the shortest time used by others that causes the dreaded blue shift? Also in those five seconds you can feel the flashlight get warm.

Typically I don’t use “Turbo” hardly ever and it produces plenty of light on Turbo its just that some lights seem to do it (most) and some dont. Curious as to what causes it actually. It definately gets hot quickly while in the higher modes.

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Firelight2 wrote:
I wonder if this light could be converted to a triple From prior posts, it looks like it pulls around 3.6 amps and that's with resistors. Would it be possible to replace the stock star with a chopped down triple star without the resistors for even more output? I'm not sure it would work, but if it did it might make a nice pocket rocket. Hard part would be getting the star to fit together with its oddly place negative wire, positive post and screw holes. Might be easier to install a copper heatsink below the triple star. Also without the screws, the battery spring would be pressing directly on the lens, which isn't a good way to have a long lasting light.

You do need the one resistor - it's what supplies power to the driver.

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264 wrote:
I have not used turbo for more than five seconds at a time. What is the shortest time used by others that causes the dreaded blue shift? Also in those five seconds you can feel the flashlight get warm.

I ran some tests, only with a fully charged cell did I get the blue shift in turbo, it takes about 5 seconds and the light gets extremely hot. After the cell lost some voltage the shift stopped occuring, but now the overall tint seems much cooler than when it first was tried out yesterday, in fact it seems to change tint slightly as you go up in power, this is very odd, never had a light do this in 10 years since Ive been buying LED’s.

I also tested battery capacity, came in at 2585 mah, is rated at 2600, IR averaged about 095-110

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P_20181130_190053_vHDR_On                                                      It is a bit distorted by my cell phone lens but this is what my 219D emitter looks like.

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Blackbeard wrote:
264 wrote:
I have not used turbo for more than five seconds at a time. What is the shortest time used by others that causes the dreaded blue shift? Also in those five seconds you can feel the flashlight get warm.

I ran some tests, only with a fully charged cell did I get the blue shift in turbo, it takes about 5 seconds and the light gets extremely hot. After the cell lost some voltage the shift stopped occuring, but now the overall tint seems much cooler than when it first was tried out yesterday, in fact it seems to change tint slightly as you go up in power, this is very odd, never had a light do this in 10 years since Ive been buying LED’s.

I also tested battery capacity, came in at 2585 mah, is rated at 2600, IR averaged about 095-110

Could it be a fake 219D LED?

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264 wrote:

P_20181130_190053_vHDR_On                                                      It is a bit distorted by my cell phone lens but this is what my 219D emitter looks like.

Mine looks the same

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I took the the ICR-18650-26F out of the flashlight and measured the voltage with my Ideal-61-310 multimeter. It is at 4.06 volts. This battery has never been used and has been sitting around for almost 4 years. I did notice when tightening down the tail cap the flashlight has about 1 second burst of whiter than normal light. For me this happened 5 times in a row.

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I have decided if the dreaded blue shift happens on either of my 18650s’s I will be interested in hiring a BFL member to do the LED surgery needed to replace the 219d.

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