Fireflies PL47 Flashlight

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ToyKeeper
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TexasToasted wrote:
I’d love to pick up another one of these lights with a black body and orange aux LEDs Cash

Would that be a Halloween special edition?

toddcshoe
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I would probably pick one up. Any coupons available?

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

Tom Tom
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Tally-ho wrote:
I would really wish that FireFlies start to manufacture flashlights with threaded retaining rings for the lens and e-switch.

Of course, and lose the glue.

Many manufacturers tantalise us with threaded rings that have an odd number of indentations, so a special tool is required, or lots of ingenuity.

Even then they are sometimes a tease, and really a press-fit. Or glued up. Or threaded backwards.

Instead of simply using some circlip pliers, or the thing that takes the back off a watch with two prongs.

Even number of indents please, no glue, threaded in the usual direction.

Same applies to driver retaining rings.

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nokoff wrote:
Lumens are in the first post. Unless you meant at the default ramp stop.

You guys strapping 5000 to your forehead are nuts.

I’m much more sensible at 2500 Wink

Mine will be attached to a helmet(for caving) so 5000lumens will not be an issue..

Caving, Climbing, Mountaineering, Kayaking, Diving etc any time anywhere!!! If you in the UK let me know and lets Play!
Current lighting
Olight X7R,M2R,S1 Baton,S10R Baton 3m,S2R 2, I1R EOS,SofirnC8T,Lenser P7'2,Lenser P14,BLF A6,Fenix HL50,HM50R,HL55,CL05,HL05,CL09,CL25,Nitecore HC30,HC65,NU12,NU32,Astolux K1,Petzl E-light,Tikka Xp3,XP3LED,DUO,Atomlight,Xtar Warboys H3,PL47 Manker E03H and many Chinese ones

DB Custom
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Just discovered this nifty little (big?) light! My wife’s birthday is next week, she uses an outdated Crelant headlamp every day, so she will soon be trying out the PL47 with SST-20 emitters in NW. Big Smile

Thanks for a job well done!

blueb8llz
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Will there be rattle using 18650?

DB Custom
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Hey High CRI folks, can anyone show me what the beam tint looks like from the 95 CRI SST-20? I bought this one and got to thinking about the 4000K, how warm does that appear? Anyone know? Haven’t heard from Fireflies on my order, assume they are out for the weekend…

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DB Custom wrote:
Hey High CRI folks, can anyone show me what the beam tint looks like from the 95 CRI SST-20? I bought this one and got to thinking about the 4000K, how warm does that appear? Anyone know? Haven’t heard from Fireflies on my order, assume they are out for the weekend…

They said nov 13th..

DB Custom
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Didn’t see any mention of that, went to their website and ordered it. No indication it wasn’t ready or in stock.

DB Custom
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No mention of release date in the OP, zip about Nov 13 in this thread. Where was this said?

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The Fireflies website clearly states this light is in stock, just left the site. Oh well, it is what it is I guess…

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DB Custom wrote:
Hey High CRI folks, can anyone show me what the beam tint looks like from the 95 CRI SST-20? I bought this one and got to thinking about the 4000K, how warm does that appear? Anyone know?

When I compare the SST20 4000K to my Viltrox L116T light panel, it looks pretty close to the panel’s 3800K setting. But I don’t know how accurate the panel is. It seems to match up with my other lights pretty close to the expected values.

The main reason I’m not sure about color temperatures is because maukka’s measurements are usually about 500K warmer than mine. For example, he measured the ROT66-219B at 4200K, while I measured mine at 4700K. Something there doesn’t add up, and I haven’t figured out what yet.

Anyway, I’m a bad person to ask about warm CCTs. I think everything around 4000K and warmer looks unpleasantly yellow, including the SST20 95CRI 4000K emitters. But a lot of people seem to really like it.

Pavlo
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How reliable is a DSLR for accurately measuring White Balance?
If you take a picture of the beam on a pure white wall in complete darkness, and then upload the the raw image into lightroom, do you think the White Balance on auto would be pretty accurate?

I will test this method when I receive my 219b PL47.

DB Custom
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Might depend a lot on the camera, different brands and models may well show different values.

DB Custom
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I hear ya TK, and am afraid we won’t like the tint of the 95 CRI 4000K SST-20

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@DB Custom, no worries.

TK has mentioned one time that she has a condition which makes her very sensitive to magenta tones.

Basically, if the tint is even a tiny bit above the BBL, it will be amplified.

For example, she doesn’t think the LH351D looks all that good, while I think it looks gorgeous above 1A, right on the BBL. Pure creamy neutral white.

She did mention that she uses her lights mostly at 100lms though, so anything that is not an E21A/219B won’t look good at low levels.

TLDR: The SST-20 and LH351D 90CRI look gorgeous to my eyes ;D

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
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I haven’t seen the higher CRI Sammy, only 80 at 5000K. I tend to immediately change warm emitters, they go in the trash normally.

Edit: I got the SST-20’s for the high CRI and because they carried no additional expense. I didn’t want to pay $12 for the XP-L HI’s in addition to the $48 price of the light. I’ll change em if the suck…

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Wait wut?

Don’t you like a smooth creamy 4000k that looks like the afternoon sun?

I love using my BLF Q8 and TK15 outside now because of this.

I don’t know what is going to happen with the PL47 though.

Especially since I have some Sanyo 20700As, and I recently found a Dyson pack with updated cells.

Guess what they are are?

YEESS! Samsung 30Ts!

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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ToyKeeper wrote:
…Anyway, I’m a bad person to ask about warm CCTs. I think everything around 4000K and warmer looks unpleasantly yellow, including the SST20 95CRI 4000K emitters. But a lot of people seem to really like it.

I totally agree.

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DB Custom wrote:
No mention of release date in the OP, zip about Nov 13 in this thread. Where was this said?

I got info outside the blf forum.

ToyKeeper
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BlueSwordM wrote:
TK has mentioned one time that she has a condition which makes her very sensitive to magenta tones.

Ish. It’s more that I don’t like warm color temperatures. They don’t look white to me, ever. And using them to read or otherwise illuminate things makes my eyes hurt, even at 100 CRI.

As for tint, I have a strong preference for tints on the pink side of the BBL instead of the green side.

BlueSwordM wrote:
She did mention that she uses her lights mostly at 100lms though, so …

So I tend to care more about how LEDs perform at low power than how they perform at full power. Most LEDs get warmer and greener at low power, which are two traits I don’t like. Most of them look a lot better at higher power levels, but that doesn’t really help because that’s not how I use lights. For most of my usage, 1×7135 chip is plenty… and those only make about 120 to 150 lm. Split that between emitters in a triple or quad, and it’s only 30 to 50 lm per emitter. So the emitter’s low-power off-white tint looks pretty severe.

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Pavlo wrote:
How reliable is a DSLR for accurately measuring White Balance? If you take a picture of the beam on a pure white wall in complete darkness, and then upload the the raw image into lightroom, do you think the White Balance on auto would be pretty accurate?

I tried that with Adobe Camera Raw a while back and it works quite well.

Pavlo
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maukka wrote:
Pavlo wrote:
How reliable is a DSLR for accurately measuring White Balance? If you take a picture of the beam on a pure white wall in complete darkness, and then upload the the raw image into lightroom, do you think the White Balance on auto would be pretty accurate?

I tried that with Adobe Camera Raw a while back and it works quite well.

Thanks for the link. Looks like the Camera was a little inconsistent. I wonder if it can get fooled by bad tint when far off the BBL.
I also wonder if a camera with more dynamic range, say a Sony full frame mirrorless, will be more accurate than a micro four thirds.

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The tint probably doesn’t play a big role. At least I didn’t see correlation between tint and the amount of error in my tests. The Zebralight H600Fd Mk3 is perfectly neutral, but had quite a big error in CCT.

There’s a separate slider for tint (magenta/green) in the RAW converter so you could use that to gauge neutrality. At least to compare the relative differences between lights, even if “0” wouldn’t mean perfectly neutral on the BBL.

I don’t think dynamic range affects the result very much as long as the exposure is good (near the middle range). The dynamic range of the photo won’t be very large as you would just include the spot (or area of interest) in the frame.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
TK has mentioned one time that she has a condition which makes her very sensitive to magenta tones.

Ish. It’s more that I don’t like warm color temperatures. They don’t look white to me, ever. And using them to read or otherwise illuminate things makes my eyes hurt, even at 100 CRI.

As for tint, I have a strong preference for tints on the pink side of the BBL instead of the green side.

BlueSwordM wrote:
She did mention that she uses her lights mostly at 100lms though, so …

So I tend to care more about how LEDs perform at low power than how they perform at full power. *Most LEDs get warmer and greener at low power, *which are two traits I don’t like. Most of them look a lot better at higher power levels, but that doesn’t really help because that’s not how I use lights. For most of my usage, 1×7135 chip is plenty… and those only make about 120 to 150 lm. Split that between emitters in a triple or quad, and it’s only 30 to 50 lm per emitter. So the emitter’s low-power off-white tint looks pretty severe.

Interesting and thanks for the post. It amazes me that so many are angrily militant in terms of their unprotected cells and the power that they produce when the entire character, tint, etc. of LEDs is dependent on the more or (heaven forbid) ‘less’ power put to them.
Please forgive me fellow forum members for inquiring as to lower power protected 21700 cell fitment in this light with so many different LED options… Wink

Domari Nolo “I Refuse to be Subjugated” (1st Pennsylvania Regiment Flag) https://www.1stcontinentalregiment.org/blank
(Flagguys.com):..and man o man did they ever refuse to be subjugated. These guys were everywhere. They were important in Washington’s siege of Boston. They stayed behind and were the last to leave after covering the main army’s dangerous nick of time retreat from Long Island. They crossed the Delaware with Washington. They were “..at Brandywine, Germantown, Monmouth, and every major skirmish, and battle all the way to Yorktown..” where they fought “the most important part of the siege” according to General Steuben. These guys saw action in every one of the original 13 colonies.

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I like white lights and I cannot lie…

I’ve spent years doing everything humanly possible to ensure an expensive white wedding dress looks white in the pictures, no room in there for me to have a sunset orange light cast on everything, my mind just does not like it. White light, give me white light, and I’ll be happy.

Since most of my builds are essentially research as to how much a particular light is capable of making, I lean towards absolutes in the other end of the spectrum… and because when I actually use lights it’s typically in a wide open big range scenario, tons of light is the prerequisite.

This one is intended to use when feeding the dog at night. The back yard is essentially 200’ × 200’ with a tree line on most of 3 sides and some buildings to one side where skunks can be lurking. So, lot of light prevails over sheer high quailty or beam tint. We know what a skunk looks like, be he coated in pink or green hues. Silly (Yes, they WILL chase you down to spray you!)

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DB Custom wrote:
I like white lights and I cannot lie…

I’ve spent years doing everything humanly possible to ensure an expensive white wedding dress looks white in the pictures, no room in there for me to have a sunset orange light cast on everything, my mind just does not like it. White light, give me white light, and I’ll be happy.

Since most of my builds are essentially research as to how much a particular light is capable of making, I lean towards absolutes in the other end of the spectrum… and because when I actually use lights it’s typically in a wide open big range scenario, tons of light is the prerequisite.

This one is intended to use when feeding the dog at night. The back yard is essentially 200’ × 200’ with a tree line on most of 3 sides and some buildings to one side where skunks can be lurking. So, lot of light prevails over sheer high quailty or beam tint. We know what a skunk looks like, be he coated in pink or green hues. Silly (Yes, they WILL chase you down to spray you!)

On the other side of this coin, seeing a green cast on everything doesn’t sit right with my brain either. I’ve spent so much if my life around incandescent and sodium lights that a warmer tint is something I can stand however, even if its not my absolute favorite.

I still stick to the idea that blue light is something you want to AVOID in any activity where focus/depth perception is important. Amber lenses for driving, shooting sports, etc. for years have never let me down, and anecdotally cooler temps often seem to give me more “glare” at night when compared against warmer tints at the same brightness and intensity.

DB Custom
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Spent all my life outdoors, working in construction. Wasn’t around a lot of fluorescent lighting. But when it comes time to go out in the dark and get something done I can stand a blue-white tint, can’t bear a campfire orange hue on everything, those old Maglite days are gone for me! Green hue, don’t care for it and it bugs the snot out of me but if I have something to do I can still get it done, it’ll bug me the whole time though. The cool white doesn’t do that, I mean, doesn’t bug me the whole time I’m out. Too much like the new headlights on cars I guess. Man, speaking of cars, my old ’51 Chevy had those dang near orange lights and I hated em even 40 years ago! lol

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I am just the opposite. My eyes just don’t like cool white at all. I can live with neutral, but much prefer warm light. Earlier today I put some XM-L Hi, U4, 3000K 80+CRI emitters from mtnelectronics in one of my Wuben T046R lights. It now gives me a very warm, orange-ish, golden light. I love it.


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DB Custom wrote:
Spent all my life outdoors, working in construction. Wasn’t around a lot of fluorescent lighting. But when it comes time to go out in the dark and get something done I can stand a blue-white tint, can’t bear a campfire orange hue on everything, those old Maglite days are gone for me! Green hue, don’t care for it and it bugs the snot out of me but if I have something to do I can still get it done, it’ll bug me the whole time though. The cool white doesn’t do that, I mean, doesn’t bug me the whole time I’m out. Too much like the new headlights on cars I guess. Man, speaking of cars, my old ’51 Chevy had those dang near orange lights and I hated em even 40 years ago! lol

I feel that, the Nichias I’ve seen as cool as 6000K still look great and handle red and brown tones really well. Personally I don’t like anything south of 4000K either as its just washed out orange like you said but to some people 4000 Is SUPER warm still.

On the other hand I HATE the cool white LEDs on some new cars. Hurts my eyes whether I’m using them or another car is shining them at me, its nice they’re a bit brighter when you’re driving with them but the tradeoff in eye strain really wouldn’t be worth it for me. Same reason I’ve got f.lux on my PC and a blue-blocker app on my phone too. I definitely think some people are more sensitive to it, and I’ve always had issues with even regular sunlight causing eye strain if I’m not wearing sunglasses pretty much my whole life (getting contact lenses helped – they block UV).

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