Fireflies PL47 Flashlight

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DB Custom
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And all this, in a nutshell, is why there are no right or wrong answers.

That photo above, side by side lights with the orange on the right? I’d have those orange emitters in the trash within 20 minutes of opening the box! Read a book once where the divine wisdom was “Leave to others their otherness.” Wink

BurningPlayd0h
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Now we just need other brands to get on the cool white but high CRI/R9 train! Big Smile

DB Custom
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Y’all just need to learn to mod… Silly

BlueSwordM
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@DB Custom and BPlayd0h, there is the 5700k Luxeon MZ 90CRI for you, and the 5000k LH351D 90CRI.

However, don’t you both forget that there is a large difference in how 3500k and below emitters are represented in pictures.

Emitters with low R9 values and high CRI values will tend to look on the orange side of things at 3500k and below CCTs. See the XM-L2 3000k 80CRI above. That is due to the green wavelengths of the light emitted mixing it with the red, giving it a bad orange look. Doesn’t look bad, but doesn’t look good either, even to my warm tinted eyes.

Emitters with high R9 values and high CRI will tend to look towards red at 3500k and below. See E21As and LH351B 3000k 90CRI. They look gorgeous, even on a white wall. It looks more realistic since red tones are less washed out, making it look more reddish in tones, giving it an incandescent tone.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
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I just keep cramming MT-G2’s in everything Blue. Big Smile

BlueSwordM
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Isn’t the reason for the MT-G2 having such a good beam because it works like a small COB LED chip?

And why it’s so biiig.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

nokoff
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That looks amazing, nice choice! I’d take 10 of those!

I keep trying to buy supposed 3000k but the manufacturer’s come out too yellow.

I guess will need to start making my own. Did the 20mm PCB fit the host without any convincing?

TexasToasted wrote:
I am just the opposite. My eyes just don’t like cool white at all. I can live with neutral, but much prefer warm light. Earlier today I put some XM-L Hi, U4, 3000K 80+CRI emitters from mtnelectronics in one of my Wuben T046R lights. It now gives me a very warm, orange-ish, golden light. I love it.


!https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-TKjdcxt/0/6eabaf14/XL/i-TKjdcxt-XL.jpg!

Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義

DB Custom
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Kinda, yeah, it’s got 72 dies and dwarfs the 70.2. lol It can do a little over 16A direct drive for some 4300 lumens. I’ve had them in all sorts of lights, even a chopped miniMag with 2 14250 cells. Big Smile (that’s the 6V variant, I also have some 9V ones)

SKV89
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I’ve tried a dozen different 3000k emitters. The Oslong Square 96CRI, E21A, and SST-20 is the best. I never tried the LH351B 3000k 90CRI though and never seen any test report on that but fear it might be above the BBL yellow/green like the other Samsungs. You can get a SST-20 3000k 90CRI triple on 20mm mcpcb from KD and just swap it in the TO46R. I modded three TO46R that way. Very easy to do and direct fit. No physical modifications necessary. The SST-20 3000k 90CRI looks beautiful in this host. Does not look yellow at all.

nokoff wrote:
That looks amazing, nice choice! I’d take 10 of those!

I keep trying to buy supposed 3000k but the manufacturer’s come out too yellow.

I guess will need to start making my own. Did the 20mm PCB fit the host without any convincing?

TexasToasted wrote:
I am just the opposite. My eyes just don’t like cool white at all. I can live with neutral, but much prefer warm light. Earlier today I put some XM-L Hi, U4, 3000K 80+CRI emitters from mtnelectronics in one of my Wuben T046R lights. It now gives me a very warm, orange-ish, golden light. I love it.


!https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-TKjdcxt/0/6eabaf14/XL/i-TKjdcxt-XL.jpg!

Tom Tom
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Eyes are individual things.

Older eyes are generally more frazzled, even if they started off perfect. Particularly if the owners have spent a lot of time outdoors without protection from UV and high intensity. They wear out. Look after them.

10% of male eyes are defective to begin with. 0.5% of female eyes.

The blue cones are most easily damaged, hence I suspect a preference among some older people for colder tints, to try to make up for what they have lost.

Try a quick check at e.g. https://www.colour-blindness.com/colour-blindness-tests/ishihara-colour-... to see where you might fit on the spectrum.

TexasToasted
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Emitters with high R9 values and high CRI will tend to look towards red at 3500k and below. See E21As and LH351B 3000k 90CRI. They look gorgeous, even on a white wall. It looks more realistic since red tones are less washed out, making it look more reddish in tones, giving it an incandescent tone.

My other Wuben To46R is getting the LH351B 4000K 90+ CRI soon Big Smile
Texas-Ace is sending me one of his nifty Lumen Tubes and I want to measure the stock light before I mod it.

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nokoff wrote:
Did the 20mm PCB fit the host without any convincing?

This was a super easy mod. The triple emitter, 20mm boards from mountain Electronics drop right in.
Remove tailcap and battery.
Unscrew the bezel. I pressed the bezel into a piece of foam and turned the body.
Pop the open tail-end of the light a couple of times with the palm of your hand to generate a slight increase in air pressure inside the light and the lens will drop out.
I used a fine tip pair of tweezers to remove the o ring and the optic fell right out.
Un-solder the red and black leads from the original triple emitter board, straighten the wires a bit so they don’t catch, and the emitter board drops right out.

DB Custom
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Tom Tom, surprisingly enough I got all the tests correct. Didn’t expect to after so many years out in the Texas sun.

Edit: The explanations actually say that green colorblindness is by far the most common, with nearly 6% of all males so affected.

BurningPlayd0h
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Losing blue cones in your retina would shift your color perception, but wouldn’t that make anything blue-shifted look dimmer?

From everything I’ve seen in the flashlight community it seemed that it was more common for those older to have more preference for warmer lights.

nokoff
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TexasToasted wrote:
nokoff wrote:
Did the 20mm PCB fit the host without any convincing?

This was a super easy mod. The triple emitter, 20mm boards from mountain Electronics drop right in.
Remove tailcap and battery.
Unscrew the bezel. I pressed the bezel into a piece of foam and turned the body.
Pop the open tail-end of the light a couple of times with the palm of your hand to generate a slight increase in air pressure inside the light and the lens will drop out.
I used a fine tip pair of tweezers to remove the o ring and the optic fell right out.
Un-solder the red and black leads from the original triple emitter board, straiten the wires a bit so they don’t catch, and the emitter board drops right out.

Thank you! Looking forward to seeing more! I have heard, as SKV89 stated, that the Samsung LH351 has a green corona, though I’m not sure which exact LED it was so hopefully you have a better outcome.

Also thanks SKV89 for the tips on emitters. I’m going to order a few and get my Weller out this Winter!

Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義

DB Custom
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I have recently used a lot of the Samsung LH351D 80 CRI 5000K emitter, I don’t see this green that has been much ballyhooed about when used in reflectored lights or certain optics, other optics do indeed shift the tint. I don’t know if that’s just the batch I got or what, but mine have been fairly pleasantly warm. This is a U6 power bin. The W6 power bin in 70 CRI 5000K is actually almost white and quite a bit stronger. I prefer this 70 CRI W6 to the 80 CRI U6, both in 5000K tint.

Tom Tom
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DB Custom wrote:
Tom Tom, surprisingly enough I got all the tests correct. Didn’t expect to after so many years out in the Texas sun.

That’s great Smile There are a couple of catches in there too Wink

I think if you start off with decent eyes that they mostly carry on working, just fade a bit at the cooler end as we get older.

But other things can also start to go wrong.

It used to be that no-one used headlights in town, we had “sidelights” for that, only switched on at “lighting up time”, still do actually, still legal, but no-one uses them. A pity, because bicycle lights etc. now have to compete with car main-beams and glaring “daytime position lighting”, and as a motorcyclist I have had to add a couple more lights just to keep up with the lighting war and try to stand out, as well as a helmet cam, just in case. Whereas it used to be easy, just keep your headlamp on dipped beam.

It used to be in France that white headlights were illegal, only yellow tinted bulbs were permitted, and it used to be a ritual for my father to change them over, and mask out the LHD dipped beam with tape, just before we crossed the channel in our VW camper, back in the ’70s.

I know several elderly people who are almost night-blind, but can still cope well enough around town, wearing yellow-tinted driving glasses. They were much happier when we still had high pressure sodium streetlights (orange), but the modern cold white LED ones don’t suit them at-all (as well as being much dimmer).

This test is more subtle, but I can also pass it easily:

https://www.colour-blindness.com/colour-blindness-tests/colour-arrangeme...

Gebe
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Tom Tom wrote:
Eyes are individual things.

Older eyes are generally more frazzled, even if they started off perfect. Particularly if the owners have spent a lot of time outdoors without protection from UV and high intensity. They wear out. Look after them.

10% of male eyes are defective to begin with. 0.5% of female eyes.

The blue cones are most easily damaged, hence I suspect a preference among some older people for colder tints, to try to make up for what they have lost.

Try a quick check at e.g. https://www.colour-blindness.com/colour-blindness-tests/ishihara-colour-... to see where you might fit on the spectrum.

That is very insightful. I’m 70 years old and spent 3/4 of my life working outdoors and the other quarter working indoors under fluorescent lighting. Not to mention I grew up by the beach in Southern Calif. and spent most of my free time in the sun without eye protection.

I’m very susceptible to warm tints that so many here love as they are very distracting to me as well as green tints. CW without any blue or green is my preference by far and is the easiest and most pleasurable tint for me.

DB Custom
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I rode a 750cc (Honda VF750S, V45 Sabre) for years back in the 80’s to 90’s, put 50,000 miles on it. Mounted an auxillary light under the main headlamp even then. Wanted to be seen, not hit!

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Honda CB750 KZ when I was 20 (unconditional job offer from BAe before I graduated convinced the bank manager to give me the loan.)

Then more big Hondas, moved on to BMW. K100 RT, K1, R1100GS (still have the last two, the K1 being rather a classic. As well as a little Kawasaki KLX250 to put on a rack on the back of the camper.

Also swap these around with a trusted brother, modern BMW750 GS, classic R100GS PD in as-new condition, replacing the one that we wore out over a decade of long European tours with our GFs on the back. Honda XR400 (Australian import stripped down and tuned, doesn’t even have a battery), Suzuki GSXR750. Honda Firestorm 750 twin, several big Kawasakis, etc. etc.

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V45 was a blast. My buddy, who is 60 lbs. lighter, had the v65 . It felt like it would never quit pulling! Both great bikes from the 80’s

BurningPlayd0h
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Gebe wrote:
Tom Tom wrote:
Eyes are individual things.

Older eyes are generally more frazzled, even if they started off perfect. Particularly if the owners have spent a lot of time outdoors without protection from UV and high intensity. They wear out. Look after them.

10% of male eyes are defective to begin with. 0.5% of female eyes.

The blue cones are most easily damaged, hence I suspect a preference among some older people for colder tints, to try to make up for what they have lost.

Try a quick check at e.g. https://www.colour-blindness.com/colour-blindness-tests/ishihara-colour-... to see where you might fit on the spectrum.

That is very insightful. I’m 70 years old and spent 3/4 of my life working outdoors and the other quarter working indoors under fluorescent lighting. Not to mention I grew up by the beach in Southern Calif. and spent most of my free time in the sun without eye protection.

I’m very susceptible to warm tints that so many here love as they are very distracting to me as well as green tints. CW without any blue or green is my preference by far and is the easiest and most pleasurable tint for me.

Can’t really have anything 6000K or north without some blue, that’s how blackbody radiation works after all. I would imagine worse rendering of the rest of the visible spectrum is what makes some emitters look so much MORE blue than others however.

Between a slightly green hue and tons of tint shift I will take the green every time. To me its the wild shift in colors as you move the beam/your focus that is really disorienting and makes colors hard to distinguish. XP-G3 HCRI is a great example of this, I would take MANY other emitters over that.

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Nice Rides Tom Tom!

I thought my V45 was fast, then I rode with a guy that had the V65, dang thing would scream off away from me in 2nd gear! He claimed it’d do 110 in 2nd, I don’t know, but it was greased lightning in the days before crotch rockets. Seeing him on his, the way the shaft drive would scrunch the wheel base shorter and make the bike stand up, made me realize my mono-shock wasn’t working! Honda wanted $600 for a new one, back in ’87 I think, early days of internet, I found one online at a bike salvage yard in VA for $200. Man was my bike so much better for it! (I was 135 lbs back then, thought the shock just was geared for a heavier driver, lol)

Methinks Fireflies needs to give us some flashaholic fodder…

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djmcconn wrote:
V45 was a blast. My buddy, who is 60 lbs. lighter, had the v65 . It felt like it would never quit pulling! Both great bikes from the 80’s

Until the camchain system failed, which they all did Sad

As with my CB750KZ, I had to replace both of them, and the tensioners, twice in 60K miles. By then the piston rings were so worn that it could take a minute of cranking before it even coughed. And the clutch was barely usable (slipping at any moderate torque).

Never got more than 40 mpg from it either, usually 35. It had poor diaphragm carburettors with “power boost” jetting that guzzled juice.

Which Is why switched to BMW. To get 55 or 60 MPG (genuine), instant starting (fuel injection), no greasy chains to adjust and replace, double the service interval, a genuine 140 mph sustainable performance in comfort (those were the days, I’d better say no more, but 800 miles in one day from UK to Southwest France was a regular run), topping out at just over 160 on the K1, electrically heated handgrips, Nivomat self-levelling suspension. And the first ABS brakes.

Nothing else came close, in those days.

Built in Spandau, before the Wall came down.

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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Now we just need other brands to get on the cool white but high CRI/R9 train! Big Smile

According to manufacturer documentation, LH351D is also available in 6000K CCT 90 CRI.

They part number for that is: SPHWHTL3DA0GF4PQS6

BLF members with better connections to the retailers should push for this specific model, as Nichia 219C 90 CRI 5700K is also a very gorgeous CW (actually feels NW just a bit on the CCW side) emitter. For me Nichia E21A 6500K, which is available from Clemence, is a bit too cold white, but it still handles browns and reds very well !!

So I will have very high expectations for the LH351D 6000K 90 CRI, just I wish, it would be available.

BurningPlayd0h
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adam7027 wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Now we just need other brands to get on the cool white but high CRI/R9 train! Big Smile

According to manufacturer documentation, LH351D is also available in 6000K CCT 90 CRI.

They part number for that is: SPHWHTL3DA0GF4PQS6

BLF members with better connections to the retailers should push for this specific model, as Nichia 219C 90 CRI 5700K is also a very gorgeous CW (actually feels NW just a bit on the CCW side) emitter. For me Nichia E21A 6500K, which is available from Clemence, is a bit too cold white, but it still handles browns and reds very well !!

So I will have very high expectations for the LH351D 6000K 90 CRI, just I wish, it would be available.

I had zero clue that 6000K Samsung existed but would be VERY excited to get my hands on it, I’ve wanted one of the Jaxman lights with 5700k Nichia for a while now but just haven’t gotten around to deciding what driver I’ll swap in.

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Your best bet for the Jaxman lights would be the LD-A4 from LED4Power.

Linear FET driver, and at 6A, it would be perfect for short bursts of light, and if you can keep it cool, it will be able to sustain regulated brightness.

And you won’t have any luck about that 6000k LH351D. No e-parts retailer carriers it, not even Digikey and manually searching for it.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

BurningPlayd0h
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Your best bet for the Jaxman lights would be the LD-A4 from LED4Power.

Linear FET driver, and at 6A, it would be perfect for short bursts of light, and if you can keep it cool, it will be able to sustain regulated brightness.

And you won’t have any luck about that 6000k LH351D. No e-parts retailer carriers it, not even Digikey and manually searching for it.

I was looking at the moonlight special and DrJones on Mtn-elec and a few others. Very low output is a must for me, not looking for it to be a hotrod and not even sure if I want the single/reflector E2 or TIR/triple E2L. Don’t usually use tail-switch for an EDC and want something I can set up just how I like (without paying the premium for a Pflexpro, despite how much I want a light from him).

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I got a couple S2+ triples from PflexPro. They are good. Well worth the money.

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SKV89 wrote:
I got a couple S2+ triples from PflexPro. They are good. Well worth the money.

I would too if the emitter options were greater and needed something that bulletproof. This is more of a tint snob build than an EDC I can run over with a dump truck.

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