[Oshpark] HQ ProgKey - Universal Driver Programming Key

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moderator007
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@contractor
You could also use any of the break away or loose 2.54mm header pins soldered to the key and wire straight to it like I did with the loneoceans key.
https://www.pololu.com/product/965 They can be found in alot of different places online.
.

contactcr
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moderator007 wrote:
@contractor You could also use any of the break away or loose 2.54mm header pins soldered to the key and wire straight to it like I did with the loneoceans key. https://www.pololu.com/product/965 They can be found in alot of different places on line. . !{width:50%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/kpa95Rm.jpg[/img]!

Thanks I bet I could snip the ones I got shorter if the pads line up right. I got extras. If not I guess the wires may help with the flexing.

On a related note, DigiKey has outdone themselves and they are now competing with Arrow packaging (RIP Free Shipping).

FW3A for scale.

Why such a big box you ask? To protect the 4 feet of heatshrink tube of course. Other items included a few LEDs, resistors, and those jumpers. Facepalm

Joshk
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contactcr wrote:
Why such a big box you ask? To protect the 4 feet of heatshrink tube of course. Other items included a few LEDs, resistors, and those jumpers. Facepalm

Yea Mouser has been doing that too for years… I think they are concerned you will call it ‘damaged’ if it arrives kinked.
The “fix” is to include a note on the order that says “Please fold the heat-shrink to reduce shipping costs.” That has been working for me.

contactcr
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I mean what do they do with their extension cords and garden hoses and rope…

Mike C
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contactcr wrote:
Why such a big box you ask? To protect the 4 feet of heatshrink tube of course.

Couldn’t they role it? Shouldn’t make any creases if they just made a little role of it. That’s just insane.
d_t_a
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I’m interested in this HQ Progkey, but when I inquired in the website, I didn’t get a response.

I’m wondering if they ship to my country, and how much might be the shipping cost.

Joshk
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Check these out. I actually had this exact idea for edge mounting the connector a month ago and even ordered parts to build one. Now a more intense Google search shows the exact idea already exists.


Alternative image:
https://www.tindie.com/products/pnoxi/avr-isp-pogo-pin-adapter-2×5-idc2×3-pogo-127mm/

fluke
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Thank you ordered a couple. 

Joshk
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fluke wrote:

Thank you ordered a couple. 

Oh, ok. What pitch did you order?
My link was to the 2.54mm pitch version just for a visual.
I updated my link to the 1.27mm pitch version in-case anyone else orders from it.

fluke
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 One of each thank you.

f0xx
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I missed it if it is in this thread, but how possible is it to attach the pogo pins with a soldering iron? I don’t have a “reflow station” so to speak, so I have been doing most of my soldering with an iron and have been reflowing my emitters with a torch. I am waiting on OSH Park right now, and have been thinking about how difficult it might be to get 6-8 pins soldered on to this tiny board.

Am I right to worry or is it easier than it looks?

Any tips?

contactcr
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I was planning to reflow one side on the stove top then maybe try to kapton tape it down and do the other side. If that doesn’t work i’ll probably try an iron on the 2nd side to get it aligned properly. not sure.

I may try to use my lead free solder on the first side then use leaded solder on the flip side to help keep side #1 in place.

f0xx
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contactcr wrote:
I was planning to reflow one side on the stove top then maybe try to kapton tape it down and do the other side. If that doesn’t work i’ll probably try an iron on the 2nd side to get it aligned properly. not sure.

I may try to use my lead free solder on the first side then use leaded solder on the flip side to help keep side #1 in place.

That sounds reasonable. Thank you for the tips!

Joshk
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Maybe you could solder both sides at once with the edge of one of these? Maybe two at a time so each unit acts like a spacer for the other side.

f0xx
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Joshk wrote:
Maybe you could solder both sides at once with the edge of one of these? Maybe two at a time so each unit acts like a spacer for the other side. !https://www.dropbox.com/s/eejtd4c5×4ooedm/clamp.jpg?raw=1!

Excellent!

id30209
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Sweet f0xx

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

trailhunter
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Hi, I need a pogo adapter to flash d4v2’s. Who can I ask to place an order?

contactcr
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Hank from Emisar will sell them soon. These are just parts you have to assemble.

trailhunter
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contactcr wrote:
Hank from Emisar will sell them soon. These are just parts you have to assemble.

Ahh ok. So just defer to first page to find the source for all the parts?

contactcr
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trailhunter wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Hank from Emisar will sell them soon. These are just parts you have to assemble.

Ahh ok. So just defer to first page to find the source for all the parts?

That’s one option. If you order from Oshpark be sure to get the 2oz board. Pins can be found on Amazon too.

trailhunter
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Awesome, thank you.

icpart
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Hi. I ordered today from OSHPARK these HQ ProgKey but after I read last post I realized I made a mistake in the order. I ordered 1.6mm version. If any of you has assembled this board, can you tell me if this will be a problem if I can used with bent of pogo pins?

contactcr
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So I put it together and got it working. I nuked one with too much heat trying to re-flow on the stove (it might be salvageable but I doubt it).

What I ended up doing:

  • Tin each of the two parallel strips one at time with lead free solder. Basically hold your iron on the strip for a few seconds then put solder on the iron tip and drag it down to spread it
  • With all strips on one side tinned, grab a pin with tweezers and dip it into flux paste (the gooey kind) and line them up on the strip
  • I ended up putting this side on the stove and “re-flowing” it, adjusting the ends with tweezers as needed to stay aligned
  • Next, I kapton taped the pins and wrapped it around the wire holes on both sides leaving the second side pins clear
  • On the opposite side pins I tinned them with leaded solder (63/37) and did the same method with the flux paste
  • Instead of trying to re-flow again I ended up using a hot air gun on the lowest air setting and 410 degrees adjusting with tweezers as needed

edit:

Added a few pics of the pin soldering, i’m sure someone can come up with better ways but it’s what I did..

lead free reflow on stove, kapton taping those in place

lightly tin other side with leaded solder, flux paste on pins to hold them while doing hot air

f0xx
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Thanks contactcr!

This will prove helpful when I finally get my key pcbs. I just got some beautiful ones today in the wrong thickness (due to my thickness).. I think the correct ones have been sent to fab, so it will be soon.

JackJax
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Just got my Oshpark boards and soldered everything. Thank you contactcr. Your tips were invaluable.

WTF
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I just solder paste and hot air both sides. My pins are longer so I use a second board to support them. A lot of my pins are slightly bent and need to be poked into alignment, the straight ones self align pretty good.

To do the second side I lay a spare pogo pin sideways under the board to keep it level.

I solder it on a piece of metal or on my heat sink. The bottom pins being in contact with metal suck the heat out of that side of the board faster than it can get through the fiberglass. It would be pretty hard to get the solder to melt on the bottom side, even if it did as long as the board is sitting level there is no reason for anything to move.

contactcr
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Just FYI Emisar is now selling their own kit already made and it’s up on their site

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