OSRAM CSLNM1.TG 1mm, CSLPM1.TG 2mm, CULNM1.TG 1mm

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Agro
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scr79423 wrote:
does anyone know at 2A, how many lumens does the OSRAM CSLNM1.TG LED make?

Have you tried taking a look at literally the first post in this topic?
contactcr
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Barkuti wrote:

Has this stuff been tint and CRI tested? I understand these are no high CRI emitters, but the information still matters. 


 


BLF X5 (White Flat 1mm2 from LED4Power)

Hot spot:

CCT = 8823K (Duv -0.0110)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 69.6 [ R9 = 2.6 ]

Spill just outside hot spot:

CCT = 6701K (Duv -0.0048)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 67.5 [ R9 = -19.0 ]

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Almost 9000k…

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Wow that is pretty bluish, doesn't it? Sort of like 9300K temp adjusted monitors.

 

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I have put the 1mm2 on the TX25C2 MTN Electronics 22mm FET driver, and the hotspot is the same size as the Thrunite TN31 but not as bright, it throws a lot. I don’t go over 75% power, when I do it turns pinkish to let me know that it is not liking the current.

The other 1mm2 was put on a Manker U11, made it more throwy, the last one will be put on the Manker T02

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I re-measured the hotspot further back just to see, didn’t make much difference. On turbo it’s more purple than blue, probably since it’s below BBL

Note this is turbo and between 4-5 amps IIRC:

CCT = 8932K (Duv -0.0116)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 68.8 [ R9 = 3.6 ]

Hotspot on a much lower setting:

CCT = 6873K (Duv -0.0030)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 66.2 [ R9 = -25.2 ]

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Which driver did you use? Purple tint suggests current is higher than 4-5A.

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So white flats' CCT steers to higher numbers when overdriven? I see R9 gets better but let's say I'd prefer to minimize tint shift. What would be the maximum reasonable driving current for the CSLPM1.TG (2mm²), 8A maybe? Host will be a C8S.

 

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It’s an x5 (fet) using vapcell 14500. Don’t think it’s above 5A. It’s not very noticeably purple just trying to convey to barkuti even though cct is high it isn’t angry blue like a $3 zoomie.

I measured a zoomie that has like 12-14 7135 and the tint is similar on max. It’s not overdriven by BLF standards

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My first Flat White (1mm²) build. D1S with custom 5A linear driver. Linky

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BobbyMK wrote:
194kcd with CSLPM1.TG in a C8 driven at 7.5A with LD-4A driver.

Interesting result. Almost the same as my C8 with black flat in that made 196kcd but with noticeable bigger hotspot.

CSLPM1.TG / Black flat

!https://i.imgur.com/1Ai1Xae.jpg!


I’ve been looking through this entire thread, is this the only direct comparison between the 1mm^2 CSLNM1.TG (or Flat Black which is comparable size wise) & the 2mm^2 CSLPM1.TG? So both will produce a pure circle hotspot, the PM1 will just have a slightly bigger hotspot. Will the PM1 spill also be circular?

Then another question, how will a triple reflector like the BTU’s deal with the PM1’s rectangular shape? Is there an optimal orientation to place the LED’s?

Thanks

Current Collection: BTU: Shocker (3 x SST-40 @ 8A)Lumintop: BLF GT70 (CW Sliced), BLF GTmini; Solarforce: 2 x L2P (XM-L2 U3 2C @ 4A), MPP-1 (XP-L HI @ 6A), MPP-3 (3 x XM-L2 U2 2C @ 12A), M6 (Nichia 319A @ 6A), M8 (Cree XHP-50.2 @ 9A), 9x (9 x XM-L2 U2 1A @ 2A)

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Is there any indication this will be offered in a temp closer to 5000k? This led and the SST-40 only being available in cold white/blue (to me) is why I don’t own any lights with them. I’d rather dedome an old xp-g2 or something than have a cold white light, but that’s just me. Doesn’t have to be crazy CRI-tint snob level, just not icepick blue please. Anyone with knowledge of the industry have a guess on if they’ll ever come out with a somewhat warmer option?

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mountainair26 wrote:
Is there any indication this will be offered in a temp closer to 5000k? This led and the SST-40 only being available in cold white/blue (to me) is why I don’t own any lights with them. I’d rather dedome an old xp-g2 or something than have a cold white light, but that’s just me. Doesn’t have to be crazy CRI-tint snob level, just not icepick blue please. Anyone with knowledge of the industry have a guess on if they’ll ever come out with a somewhat warmer option?

I don’t have any answer about a possible warmer tint, but I do know something : they are no blue by any means.
What you got with the white flats is a true cold white. It’s white, no hue of blue or green, just white.
Still, I agree with you, a warmer tint would be useful, especially in a long range thrower to cut through mist and fog.

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I got what I think it’s a nice triple reflector host for 3 white flats, eagletac M30LC2-C… do you guys think 3 in parallel can handle direct drive with a high drain cell?

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I put 3 in a 18650 C8F with FET driver. It works with even my highest drain batteries.

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Any quick focusing tip for a CSLNM1.TG (1mm²) in a C8? I plan on using either a 5050 or a 3535 gasket, carefully glued surrounding the emitter. Should I file the gasket for the reflector to sit deeper?

Thanks.

 

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Barkuti wrote:

Any quick focusing tip for a CSLNM1.TG (1mm²) in a C8? I plan on using either a 5050 or a 3535 gasket, carefully glued surrounding the emitter. Should I file the gasket for the reflector to sit deeper?


Thanks.


 


Smile 

With a 3535 gasket it will self centre when the reflector rotates as you fasten the bezel… But that’s if you have the reflector with the 7mm bottom hole. Sanding it down a tiny bit helps. My C8+ with CSLNM1.TG outperforms a stock L2 easily!

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Barkuti wrote:

Any quick focusing tip for a CSLNM1.TG (1mm²) in a C8? I plan on using either a 5050 or a 3535 gasket, carefully glued surrounding the emitter. Should I file the gasket for the reflector to sit deeper?


Thanks.


 


Smile 


Stock gasket will be too thick. Around 0,6mm high is a good starting point for optimal focus

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will34 wrote:
I got what I think it’s a nice triple reflector host for 3 white flats, eagletac M30LC2-C… do you guys think 3 in parallel can handle direct drive with a high drain cell?
I don’t think your light has direct drive, according to Eagtac’s website it has a C3300 driver which in my experience with Eagtac lights means 3.3amps max, and if you look at the figures on the same page Eagtac specify 1284 LED lumens for the triple XP-G2 S3 CW which would back up the 3.3amp idea.

They also specify:

LED circuit
C3300 Extreme3
- Synchronous buck w/ efficiency of up to 95%
- Non-dimming constant current regulation for all output levels without flicking

so you should still get 3.3amps to the triple NM1s, or 1.1amps to each NM1 which is well within their capabilities. So I think the lower VF means you’ll get more runtime, not more power.

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My reflector indeed has ∅7mm bottom hole, KevinZA1988. But, as I said previously, I'd better glue the gasket.

-X3- wrote:

Stock gasket will be too thick. Around 0,6mm high is a good starting point for optimal focus

With my cheap 0.1mm precision digital caliper I am measuring my gaskets at 1.6mm total height, of which 0.7mm is base thickness and 0.9mm of reflector hole fitting cylinder. All figures ±0.05mm I guess.

If I am not mistaken what this means is I am advised to reduce my gasket's height 0.1 or 0.2mm, doesn't it? 

 

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@ Marc E

My M30LC2C is already modded, it has a FET only driver and 3x XPL-HI. Beam is nice without a defined hotspot but a smooth transition between the two, throw is much better than the C8F and close to a single XPL HI in a C8. As usual eagletac reflectors have perfect finish and no visible Coronas or artifacts so I think it should play nicely with the white flat. I plan to upgrade the driver to a Lexel TA, Aiming for around 160kcd and 2,000lm.

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Barkuti wrote:
<

If I am not mistaken what this means is I am advised to reduce my gasket’s height 0.1 or 0.2mm, doesn’t it? 


 



You could do that and get a good result, but personally I’m always actually checking the beam at low current (I usually clip my led tester at 50mA to the driver spring and body, and hold the loose reflector over the led+gasket) before I decide that focus is correct, and if not correct I adjust the gasket height.

You can work on the gasket, checking with reflector after each change, even with the bare board outside the flashlight, as long as you can clip a led tester to the board, i.e. you van temporarily solder some ledwires to the board for the connection.

I have learned over time that patiently taking time getting the gasket right is very much worth the trouble, despite how insignificant that little plastic thingy looks like.

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When I say correct focus, I mean that I check for each configuration @10m with my luxmeter.
It’s long, but in the end you know what you have

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Wellp, I'm no expert in this but, according to this advice from master djozz, should I file the gasket as low as possible? I think someone said somewhere he was sitting the reflector right over the led board for White Flats, using polyimide film for insulating purposes. I also have polyimide film but I'd prefer to leave some centering stuff for peace of mind in case some muggle unscrews the bezel and loosens the reflector.

I don't even know how to make a photograph of the beam right now, that would help doesn't it? This stuff:

 

Do I need to generate some good deal of smoke to attain this? 

 

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I wasn’t quite the master in centering leds when I wrote that in 2014 Sick and am still learning.

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You are Master Djozz! I learned a lot from you Thumbs Up Beer

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Barkuti, what if you just use plastic reflector without any gaskets? Cool

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PML wrote:
Barkuti, what if you just use plastic reflector without any gaskets? Cool

I like the smell of burnt plastic too

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