OSRAM CSLNM1.TG 1mm, CSLPM1.TG 2mm, CULNM1.TG 1mm

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Nichia
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I really like these LEDs! I need s2+ copper with this led. It is super awesome to have very small pocket thrower!

 

any one has one for sale?? Please pm me 

Nichia 219B

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I have a Convoy M1 build with 1mm² CSLNM1.TG nearly finished, with linear driver set at “5A” (one of the newer SST-40 drivers from Simon modified with 8mΩ sense resistor: R010 + R050 + R200). Just need to bypass the switch and solder the driver, will say something later. 

 

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MascaratumB, that is truly impressive! Thanks for the beam comparison shots!

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Barkuti wrote:

I have a Convoy M1 build with 1mm² CSLNM1.TG nearly finished, with linear driver set at “5A” (one of the newer SST-40 drivers from Simon modified with 8mΩ sense resistor: R010 + R050 + R200). Just need to bypass the switch and solder the driver, will say something later. 


 



SMO reflector ?

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I finally threw a CULNM1 in my Jaxman Z1 (you know, with the nice glass lens). It's running off 13x AMC7135, so a nominal 4.94A. I might get up the nerve to reflow another one or two on there, but maybe not. I don't have a good idea for how well the Z1 handles the heat, and I roasted the CSLPM1 I had in it first. That was probably because I had something on the LED that burned up, but I'm not sure.

Anyway, it's my first aspheric, it's a glorious gosh darned pencil beam and it's just hilarious. I haven't been out at night with it yet (I finished the mod after 11pm Friday and had a busy weekend), and I'm sure my stock MF02 outthrows it, but it's my new favorite thrower. It's so damned small it will fit in a jacket pocket, especially when twisted down to flood mode. Jaxman sent a lens cover with it even, which I actually use. And just for fun, I ended up having to use a black, reamed-out 3535 centering ring for the 4040 footprint, so it projects a nice donut image of the centering ring around the square die image.

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X3 wrote:

SMO reflector ?

Big Smile

 

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-X3- wrote:

SMO reflector ?

Even if not that important, yes. I carefully glued a 3535 gasket around the emitter, one which I had previously lapped to reduce its height from 0.8mm down to 0.6 or 0.5mm. The reflector sits quite close to the solder pads. I had to dismiss my first attempts, where I left the gasket at just 0.2 - 0.3mm and the reflector wouldn't seat properly due to it landing over the pad wires. Innocent

 

Smile 

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DavidEF wrote:
MascaratumB, that is truly impressive! Thanks for the beam comparison shots!

Thanks David Thumbs Up

I think that with a small reflector, it is indeed impressive. The beam is not straight all the time as it has a slight opening, but it makes possible to have a tube light (eventually in a 18350 version) as a “true” pocket thrower Party

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Gonna have a walk with this M1 right now. Its driver pulls nearly 4.8A on high according to my power supply.

The reflector setup… don't know what to think of. The corona is slightly asymmetrical, and I see rings. 

 

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Took some quick ceilingbounce measurements, got very close to 100Kcd for my M1. I don't know how accurate is my smartphone luxmeter. I have a Sofirn C01S in case anyone wants to help getting some comparative figures. Will measure again with the help of a friend in a day or two.

 

Party 

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M1 speaking, adjusted my homemade setup and measured again: 101.5Kcd peak and ≈97Kcd at 30s.

I really don't know how the ceilingbounce application works 30s warning sound wise. I was hoping for the 30s alarm to reset upon pressing “reset” but it doesn't seems to.

I think this is about what is to be expected from such host, doesn't it? Its reflector seems to be about half of the surface of a C8. 

For a non-high-CRI emitter the tint looks good.

 

Cheers and have fun Smile 

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Marc E wrote:
Scallywag wrote:

KevinZA1988 wrote:
This is going straight into my L2. It should centre a lot easier than it’s 3030 brothers. With the Luxeon V’s, I reamed a 3535 gasket with a 5.5mm drill bit and it fitted perfectly. It should work with this one as well….

Good idea with the drill bit. I’ll have to remember that one. I have a very cheap wood reamer I’ve been using, but it’s slow and I have to keep stopping to measure.

How do you guys clamp the gasket to stop it from moving?

I just hold it with my fingertips. It takes some patience… I got some training when I put Luxeon V’s in my Q8.

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Will this led provide any benefits on a reflector like these – in terms of throw @ 2 or 3 amps ? or i’m better off going with xpl-hi instead ? these are motorcycle auxiliary spot lights and i want to increase throw with making the beam more narrow.

above one is @3 amps

^ this one is @2 amps. asking this because i can’t increase the current. and it seems like white flat requires higher current. so before ordering new leds, just want to be sure.

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slopegatri70 wrote:
… asking this because i can't increase the current. and it seems like white flat requires higher current. so before ordering new leds, just want to be sure.

Wrong!

White flat will spank XP-L HI's ass at any current, and namely at 2 to 3 amps.

 

Smile 

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Barkuti wrote:

slopegatri70 wrote:
… asking this because i can’t increase the current. and it seems like white flat requires higher current. so before ordering new leds, just want to be sure.

Wrong!


White flat will spank XP-L HI’s ass at any current, and namely at 2 to 3 amps.


 


Smile 


well that’s a good news, i was reading a thread about black flat on Emisar D1s @ 5amp and manufacturer abandoned the plan so i thought maybe it requires higher current. one more thing, can i reflow it on xm-l2 board or not. and do i need to worry about anything else ? or its just replacing the led and go kinda thing.

thanks

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No, you can’t.

You need a triple 3030 MCPCB to be able to reflow them on.

The alternative to getting more throw would be dedomed SST-40s.

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i have never done dedoming before so that option is a no go for me. guess i will get white flat on 16mm dct instead of reflowing on current board. leds have minimum 17mm distance between them, so i think 3× 16mm boards will be fine. now only issue left is, these leds are 6000-6500k or above, but i guess you gotta lose something to gain something.

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If you have enough center to center distance go for it slopegatri70, 3 × ∅16mm boards. Just pay attention at how is the stuff set up, very likely emitters in series (3S1P).

CSLNM1.TG (1mm²) is ≈6500K that's what there is. The tint is nice, though, my recently built M1 looks pretty white to my eyes, far better than most cheapass emitters inside cheapass flashlights. But Wink cool.

It'll be an interesting throw upgrade, for sure.

 

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Sounds like a plan that could work Smile
Although there is some work involved, quite a bit of wiring, but the main problem to solve: you need a new way of centering those small 3030 leds: measure the reflector hole, find a source for 3030 centering pieces (intl-outdoor?) , maybe adapt the thickness of the centerpieces for best focus, and possibly ream the reflector holes to fit them.

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Reflector hole is 7mm, and it seems like intl-outdoor sells 7mm gasket with white flat. yes those leds are connected in series. only thing i haven’t measured is space between reflector base and dct board, since i will need to solder some wires there to connect leds. i guess 22-20awg wire should be fine, will see.

hopefully experiment will be successful, i just want to narrow the beam and decrease the glare for inc traffic. previously i was modding BL70s with xhp35hi with aspheric lens, but beam intensity wasn’t enough so bought these lights instead.

anyway, thanks for the help guys.

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I have also posted this in the L2/L6 modding thread, but this might be just the more appropriate place to ask Wink

So i took the gamble and just ordered the L21a to build a nice thrower
Together with some high drain 21700 Shockli cells and the famous Led4Power 3030 MCPCB with OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG and another OSRAM KW CSLPM1.TG

I am planning to keep the original driver, but still doubting which LED to use, @6A the 1mm might be just overdriven and the 2mm might be just underdriven.

What are your opinions?

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I would go for the 1mm and remove the spring bypass.

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If you take my test of the 2mm2 White Flat as guidance, at 6A you are at 120% of the maximum rated current and 93% of absolute maximum output, is that what you call underdriven? Shocked

The 1mm2 gives less output and a bit more throw. The driver is regulated at 6A? You may want to look at the convoy store, they have a similar driver regulated at 5A if I remember well.

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Ok Jos, you convinced me Wink
I’ll try the 2mm, otherwise i can still swap in the 1mm to see the difference and burn the S*@T out of it

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Since when do we play safe?

Good luck with your build Wink

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djozz wrote:
If you take my test of the 2mm2 White Flat as guidance, at 6A you are at 120% of the maximum rated current and 93% of absolute maximum output, is that what you call underdriven? Shocked

The 1mm2 gives less output and a bit more throw. The driver is regulated at 6A? You may want to look at the convoy store, they have a similar driver regulated at 5A if I remember well.

The 5000mA driver from Convoy gave me 4570mA on its highest setting while powering the 1mm white flat, so i guess it is not quite 5A driver which is perfect for the 1mm led.

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BobbyMK wrote:
djozz wrote:
If you take my test of the 2mm2 White Flat as guidance, at 6A you are at 120% of the maximum rated current and 93% of absolute maximum output, is that what you call underdriven? Shocked

The 1mm2 gives less output and a bit more throw. The driver is regulated at 6A? You may want to look at the convoy store, they have a similar driver regulated at 5A if I remember well.

The 5000mA driver from Convoy gave me 4570mA on its highest setting while powering the 1mm white flat, so i guess it is not quite 5A driver which is perfect for the 1mm led.


Nice info, thanks! I have a few of these 5A drivers underway for this purpose so I’m happy now Smile
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BobbyMK wrote:

The 5000mA driver from Convoy gave me 4570mA on its highest setting while powering the 1mm white flat, so i guess it is not quite 5A driver which is perfect for the 1mm led.

That is similar behaviour to that of the 17mm / 22mm driver for SST40 (weird firmware, max 8A). One of my ∅22mm units stock delivered ≈7.63A, and another ∅17mm one (with swapped sense resistor for 5A, R010 + R050 + R200) was delivering 4.75 - 4.8A according to my precision PSU's amperimeter. In essence, 95% of rated maximum values. 

The latter is paired with an CSLNM1.TG (1mm²) and I am happy with it.

BobbyMK if you want to push that a little bit more the math is easy. V = I × R = 4.57A × 10mΩ = 45.7mV sense. Stack an R100 on top of the stock R010 and you should get 10% extra maximum current, 5.027A.

 

Smile 

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Yokiamy wrote:
*I have also posted this in the L2/L6 modding thread, but this might be just the more appropriate place to ask* Wink So i took the gamble and just ordered the L21a to build a nice thrower Together with some high drain 21700 Shockli cells and the famous Led4Power 3030 MCPCB with OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG and another OSRAM KW CSLPM1.TG I am planning to keep the original driver, but still doubting which LED to use, @6A the 1mm might be just overdriven and the 2mm might be just underdriven. What are your opinions?

Yes but 6A is perfect for the 4040 CULNM1 Wink

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Nitecore EX11.2
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Stupid question, but is that just the same led on a bigger die?

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