OSRAM CSLNM1.TG 1mm, CSLPM1.TG 2mm, CULNM1.TG 1mm

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Scallywag
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contactcr wrote:
If your re-flow or cooling is inadequate it could be hours. Most of the LEDs that die around here die in hours or after the first few turbo uses. If it survives that and you have good firm contact with heat sink and appropriate cooling it will probably last a lifetime of normal use. You may see some total brightness decrease over time but this is like single digit percent drop over years. Lets just say your switch will probably fail before your LED.

Good points about the early failure causes.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

The_Fat_Controller
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contactcr wrote:
The_Fat_Controller wrote:
djozz wrote:
Quote:
For example (Assuming well mounted in a good thermal host)
at stock 3 amps 10,000 hours
at 4 amps
at 5 amps
at 6 amps
at 7 amps (A few seconds)

Unless i’ve missed it that doesnt seem to be covered on here

I do led testing but not that type and you will never get that data I can tell you. Led failure is a chance proces so the set-up is at least 10 leds per current, so 40 leds for 4 currents, 40 independent current controlled power supply outlets totalling at 800W, continuously burdening my electricity bill for say half a year. And at that is a lifetime measurement on just 1 singel led.

Not asking for exact data , an experience based opinion would be fine, if i run a white flat at say 4.5amps is it going to last hours , days , weeks , months , years ? typical based on experience how long does one usually last or is it totally random?

If your re-flow or cooling is inadequate it could be hours. Most of the LEDs that die around here die in hours or after the first few turbo uses. If it survives that and you have good firm contact with heat sink and appropriate cooling it will probably last a lifetime of normal use. You may see some total brightness decrease over time but this is like single digit percent drop over years. Lets just say your switch will probably fail before your LED.

edit: what Scallywag said.

Ok so basically then if you want absolute concrete reliability and total confidence in your build stick with 3amps , if you want to push the envelope and everything goes well it could last quite a while (months to years) , if you made a mistake on the build you’ll know pretty quickly (within hours) but provided the sink pad is properly mounted to the host with good thermal transmission and you have a reasonable quality driver for the most part they will take the extra amps fairly reliably and have a pretty good service life?

Does that sound accurate?

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Guys , I’ve finally got the L2 host and dropped in CULNM1.TG with a P4000 buck driver, While it is quite impressive it is nothing like the Aspheric

Im not sure if my focus is correct, ive used the supplied White Square hole spacer that comes with the L2 host , and also tried without it fitted. Without it i get a tighter hot spot but beam artifacts (yuck) , with it i get a very slightly wider hot spot and zero artifacts do you mod the spacer at all?

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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
Guys , I’ve finally got the L2 host and dropped in CULNM1.TG with a P4000 buck driver, While it is quite impressive it is nothing like the Aspheric

Im not sure if my focus is correct, ive used the supplied White Square hole spacer that comes with the L2 host , and also tried without it fitted. Without it i get a tighter hot spot but beam artifacts (yuck) , with it i get a very slightly wider hot spot and zero artifacts do you mod the spacer at all?

Yes, modding the spacer is key to get a laserpointer beam.
Simon sells the 3030 gaskets, which helps getting centering right. Focusing is another thing though.
I have sanded down several gaskets until i got focusing almost perfect and reached a tolerable beam.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1536507#comment-1536507

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The_Fat_Controller
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Yokiamy wrote:
The_Fat_Controller wrote:
Guys , I’ve finally got the L2 host and dropped in CULNM1.TG with a P4000 buck driver, While it is quite impressive it is nothing like the Aspheric

Im not sure if my focus is correct, ive used the supplied White Square hole spacer that comes with the L2 host , and also tried without it fitted. Without it i get a tighter hot spot but beam artifacts (yuck) , with it i get a very slightly wider hot spot and zero artifacts do you mod the spacer at all?

Yes, modding the spacer is key to get a laserpointer beam.
Simon sells the 3030 gaskets, which helps getting centering right. Focusing is another thing though.
I have sanded down several gaskets until i got focusing almost perfect and reached a tolerable beam.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1536507#comment-1536507

Thanks for the info,so do you just sand down the back of the gasket till the reflector sits as low as possible for max focus ??

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The_Fat_Controller wrote:

Thanks for the info,so do you just sand down the back of the gasket till the reflector sits as low as possible for max focus ??

Exactly, but lower is not always better, try to find the ‘sweet spot’

On the other hand, artifacts are the effect of bad centering.
Probably you have an xml and xpl sized gasket. Not the 3030 gasket which is required for the Osram.

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Yokiamy wrote:
The_Fat_Controller wrote:

Thanks for the info,so do you just sand down the back of the gasket till the reflector sits as low as possible for max focus ??

Exactly, but lower is not always better, try to find the ‘sweet spot’

On the other hand, artifacts are the effect of bad centering.
Probably you have an xml and xpl sized gasket. Not the 3030 gasket which is required for the Osram.

Well It looks like i’ve just figured out how much is to much.. i do have a spare at least don’t suppose you have a link to the 3030?

Edit:
#Attempt2# Hey thats pretty dam good now, makes my eyes hurt when i look at the spot on the wall and there are no artifacts THANKYOU!! Cool

Does anyone have any figures for KCD using an L2 host and a somewhat over driven White flat?

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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
don’t suppose you have a link to the 3030?

Does anyone have any figures for KCD using an L2 host and a somewhat over driven White flat?

Convoy 3030 Gaskets

With my C8+ i measured 200 + kCd
The L2 should do more

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So the Jax Z1 finally arrived today, after i dont know how long (seems like an eternity waiting for a flashlight)

Obviously i stripped it immediately to my horror there was a nasty surprise that i didn’t bank on, they Glue’d the star PCB in with copious amounts of white indestructible epoxy Crying Jaxman you SUCK!

Thank god have a lathe and can turn this mess out but anyone buying one be warned

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Since it has a separate pill, you can (after removing the driver) heat it up with a blowtorch. When over 150 degrees, the glue should give in.

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well for an Extra 5$ jax will supply you a bare pill with it…(wish id known that when i ordered) Either way its done now White flat & 14× 7135.. fitted Its ok but it still cant rival the crelant Sad

Beam size is the tiniest smidgen tighter than a nightmaster nm400 but the lens is way better quality

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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
well for an Extra 5$ jax will supply you a bare pill with it… Either way its done now White flat & 14× 7135.. fitted Its ok but it still cant rival the crelant Sad

Beam size is the tiniest smidgen tighter than a nightmaster nm400 but the lens is way better quality

A picture is worth more than a thousand words Wink

Beamshots (tonight) please

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The_Fat_Controller
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Yokiamy wrote:
The_Fat_Controller wrote:
well for an Extra 5$ jax will supply you a bare pill with it… Either way its done now White flat & 14× 7135.. fitted Its ok but it still cant rival the crelant Sad

Beam size is the tiniest smidgen tighter than a nightmaster nm400 but the lens is way better quality

A picture is worth more than a thousand words Wink

Beamshots (tonight) please

I’ll give it a go but ive not had much luck with my camera im not sure what settings you guys use to get those great pictures but if anyone’s got any advice on that it will be gratefully received

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I use my phone (a Sony, gives good pictures). I use a combination of manual and automatic settings (fiddle with them) and try to make the picture as close to what I see with my eyes as possible, sometimes I need to adjust the brightness afterwards to get it right.

Many people post beamshots that exaggerate reality unfortunately, or use different brightness settings (often auto) for different flashlights that they compare.

One other tip: do not position the camera right next to the flashlight or it will record an impressive-looking but useless blue ray of light that obscures the distant illumination that shows the actual quality of the flashlight. I use at least a meter distance to the side of the flashlight.

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A quick comparison Z1 7g5cs L2 & 1 Zillion candela Lumen Ebay HID (the Chinese seller says)



It’s a little misleading the 7G5 appears larger because the Z1 has far superior AR coating,
the glare makes it look larger and camera is struggling to pic that out


7g5cs stock driver ( sub 3amps) , L2 & Jax 5amps

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Hello Osram users,

Thinking of putting a 1mm Osram White Flat in my Eagletac M30LC2-C flashlight.
Do you have any idea if this will work well, and how much extra throw I would get from the light?

XP-G2 output is rated at 1280 lumens, so I suspect each LED is getting about 1amp of current.

Thanks

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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
So the Jax Z1 finally arrived today, after i dont know how long (seems like an eternity waiting for a flashlight)

Obviously i stripped it immediately to my horror there was a nasty surprise that i didn’t bank on, they Glue’d the star PCB in with copious amounts of white indestructible epoxy Crying Jaxman you SUCK!

Thank god have a lathe and can turn this mess out but anyone buying one be warned


Weird, I don’t remember that from mine. Was yours the XHP50.2 OR XML2 model Z1?

And it looks like you may have it slightly over-focused there. At least for my CULNM1, the sweet spot is unscrewed about an eighth of a turn.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

The_Fat_Controller
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Scallywag wrote:
The_Fat_Controller wrote:
So the Jax Z1 finally arrived today, after i dont know how long (seems like an eternity waiting for a flashlight)

Obviously i stripped it immediately to my horror there was a nasty surprise that i didn’t bank on, they Glue’d the star PCB in with copious amounts of white indestructible epoxy Crying Jaxman you SUCK!

Thank god have a lathe and can turn this mess out but anyone buying one be warned


Weird, I don’t remember that from mine. Was yours the XHP50.2 OR XML2 model Z1?

And it looks like you may have it slightly over-focused there. At least for my CULNM1, the sweet spot is unscrewed about an eighth of a turn.

it was the xm-l2 version from jax store on ally, the beams are focused but my camera cannot capture it properly ill try again with them on a lower brightness

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