OSRAM CSLNM1.TG 1mm, CSLPM1.TG 2mm, CULNM1.TG 1mm

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Lexel
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Just wondering what 4 of those 1mm² LEds will do in a TN40S

the driver is boost from 2S to 12V at 4A, so the LEDs will be in a pretty good range driven

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^ Good idea!

2Q19

malkoffdevices
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is the OSLON BLACK still good In say a MINI GT, or could the FLAT white replace it still?
any advantage?
thanks.

London !

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Given the similar performances and prices, I would go for the new White Flat just to avoid any problem with grounding issues…
I put some black flats in my Emisar D1 and D1S, but some strange behaviors are to be expected :
when I wrap my hand on the D1, which is equipped with a SS clip (clipped) I have a faint glow on the LED if I put my thumb on the switch bezel Ughh the slight conductivity of the skin is enough to allow some low current between ground (via the clip) and the MCPCB
That means that you can’t throw the light in a pocket full of keys/coins because it could power ON on direct drive…

The white flat is easy to use, with no short between thermal pad and cathode so I’ll now choose it for any thrower (aspheric first, of course)

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HCRI9080 wrote:
is the OSLON BLACK still good In say a MINI GT, or could the FLAT white replace it still?
any advantage?
thanks.

Go with the white flat, it has a neutral thermal pad so you don’t need to worry about any insulation or other things.
Also Led4power sells them already reflowed onto MCPCBs so you don’t need to do it yourself and possibly end up with a bad reflow or dead LED.
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The white flat is ideal for single cell lights with a linear driver.
A constant current driver though, DD drivers will kill them,
unless you use a crappy battery and / or crappy electrical path and STILL only have full output with a freshly charged cell..

2Q19

luminarium iaculator
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Jerommel wrote:
The white flat is ideal for single cell lights with a linear driver. A constant current driver though, DD drivers will kill them, unless you use a crappy battery and / or crappy electrical path and STILL only have full output with a freshly charged cell..

Yes. I agree since all your mentioned variables must be prepared for FET DD setup but hey! Mine did not die yet (1 and 2mm version).

So linear drivers.

Do you remember these guys: Nanjg 105C, AK-47, Nanjg 101-AK-A1, Nanjg 105D etc… That is if you are on the budget.
Chips stacking art (AMC 7135/8 current regulators). That seems like forgotten art? Smile

If you want the best there are L4P drivers, TA series and others..

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

If you want the best there are L4P drivers, TA series and others..

For your viewing pleasure good, nice and cheap:

Suffice to say both drivers PWM free.

 

Cheers 

luminarium iaculator
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Barkuti wrote:

luminarium iaculator wrote:

If you want the best there are L4P drivers, TA series and others..

For your viewing pleasure good, nice and cheap:



Suffice to say both drivers PWM free.


 


Cheers 

I would need something in 5-5.5A on high, 2-2.5A on med and 0.5-1A on low… I don’t care for PWM. High or turbo will be most used mode anyway Beer

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

I would need something in 5-5.5A on high, …

Pretty easy to do:

 

For the LD-29 each stacked R050 is 1.5A, R100 is 0.75A, R200 is 0.375A, and so on.

 

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Wow, that’s nice Smile
Do you know if the memory-function on this drivers can be deactivated?

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moridin wrote:
Wow, that's nice Smile
Do you know if the memory-function on this drivers can be deactivated?

There must be some way, but better wait for at least some expert to chime in…

 

 

Cheers 

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EasyB wrote:
Talpa wrote:
X3 wrote:
So I put a 2mm² version in my Amutorch JM70. I don’t trust my intensity numbers, but at 5m my “ceilingbounce” app says : Before (XP-L HI) : 270kCd After (CSLPM1.TG) : 555kCD ?!

Seem that you managed to pump it up 105,56 % footballfields.
I modded my C8 up 80,88 % http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1420417#comment-1420417
This is with calibrated luxmeter.

So you got 110kcd at 4A in a C8 with the 2mm white flat. That doesn’t sound that good since 4.5A with a dedomed XPG2 will get around 170kcd.

I just did some measurements using a bench power supply on a 2mm white flat I got from mouser. The output peaked at 8.25A. In an EE X6 head I measured 109kcd at 6A. This beam intensity was a bit disappointing. The focus was good, so I can’t explain why it’s low.

Well, I doubt that my measrurements are combarable only for myself… Maybe have to think little better way to do those.
But compared throw and it was pretty same than EmisarD1S, was hard to say which was better.

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What's all of this C8 gossiping? Does this mean the white flats are not well suited for its reflector? Or WTF?

Dedomed XP-G2 at 4.5A does 170Kcd in a C8? How is that? As far as I know an XP-L HI at 6A will maybe do 90Kcd, doesn't it? It's hard for me to believe the XP-G2 doing that much better against the XP-L HI 5700K in a Sofirn C8T.

 

Cheers 

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Barkuti wrote:

What’s all of this C8 gossiping? Does this mean the white flats are not well suited for its reflector? Or WTF?


Dedomed XP-G2 at 4.5A does 170Kcd in a C8? How is that? As far as I know an XP-L HI at 6A will maybe do 90Kcd, doesn’t it? It’s hard for me to believe the XP-G2 doing that much better against the XP-L HI 5700K in a Sofirn C8T.


 


Cheers 


Throw is from the led /reflector size and led intensity/mm2 emitting surface. A dedomed XP-G2 has higher intensity/mm1 than XP-L HI. that is all.
See my measurement tables. You will find over 200 measurement and it has dedomed XP-G2 and osram white flats and etc.
My C8 with dedomed XP-G2 made 151,7 kcd from 850 lumens. The second best is 136 kcd with dedomed SST40 in a C8. but with 2000 lumens.
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Barkuti wrote:

What’s all of this C8 gossiping? Does this mean the white flats are not well suited for its reflector? Or WTF?


Dedomed XP-G2 at 4.5A does 170Kcd in a C8? How is that? As far as I know an XP-L HI at 6A will maybe do 90Kcd, doesn’t it? It’s hard for me to believe the XP-G2 doing that much better against the XP-L HI 5700K in a Sofirn C8T.


 


Cheers 

I wasn’t trying to start a competition about who’s C8 is the best. I’m just trying to understand each report of a measurement of this new LED so we can know it’s capabilities.

Of course comparison of different v people’s results is made difficult because of different measurement conditions and equipment.

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EasyB wrote:

Of course comparison of different v people’s results is made difficult because of different measurement conditions and equipment.

… i.e. the hotspot of these leds in a reflector light is around 6000K, at which colour temperature all budget luxmeters read too much, think between 5% and 12%.
Jerommel
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
The white flat is ideal for single cell lights with a linear driver. A constant current driver though, DD drivers will kill them, unless you use a crappy battery and / or crappy electrical path and STILL only have full output with a freshly charged cell..

Yes. I agree since all your mentioned variables must be prepared for FET DD setup but hey! Mine did not die yet (1 and 2mm version).

So linear drivers.

Do you remember these guys: Nanjg 105C, AK-47, Nanjg 101-AK-A1, Nanjg 105D etc… That is if you are on the budget.
Chips stacking art (AMC 7135/8 current regulators). That seems like forgotten art? Smile

If you want the best there are L4P drivers, TA series and others..


Barkuti mentioned the LD25, which is cheap.
Ordered some low resistance resistors to mod them up to 5 Amperes.

Yeah, the forgotten art of stacking 7135’s Smile
Old school. I still have some 80 pieces of Raptor Claws though.
But those things always eat at least 150 mV, which is a shame.
And then there’s the audible PWM, which i have grown to despise…
Not to mention the war between retaining rings and the 7135’s on the battery side…
The 3 modes of the Nanjg’s are well spaced though. Thumbs Up
Better than the LD25.

2Q19

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Barkuti mentioned the LD25… And I can see they are from Simon?

IF so just contact that guy and he will do 10 plus order for free…

I ordered more than 200 drivers from Simon (I had special wishes without any amc 7135 current regulator on nanjg AK-47 C1 for making Djozz fet driver) for ultra budget price.

About that LD 25…

So basically:

- Aligator clamps for positive DMM wire clamped to spring
- Negative should be classic DMM wire probe touching driver outer ring?
- With small wire we are raising/reducing current

But all that can’t be done with classic DMM? Big Smile Right? We need constant current power supply for that?

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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Barkuti mentioned the LD25... And I can see they are from Simon?

*About that LD 25...*

So basically:

- Aligator clamps for positive DMM wire clamped to spring
- Negative should be classic DMM wire probe touching driver outer ring?
- With small wire we are raising/reducing current

But all that can't be done with classic DMM? Big Smile Right? We need constant current power supply for that?


LD-25 available at Simon's store and FastTech.

 

(I think) Simon filmed the LD-25 current output adjustment video with a precision power supply with voltmeter and amperimeter because of simplicity: he uses the supply in constant voltage mode, making sure there's enough input voltage headroom to overcome the drop in the supply to driver wire and contact resistances, and reads the current pulled in the supply's amperimeter. If, for example, you determine input wires plus alligator clips and contacts have around 0.2Ω of resistance and you aim for 5A at the driver, make sure you add ΔV = I × Rpath = 5A × 0.2Ω = 1V to the bare minimum voltage the LD-25 needs at its input to deliver the current at the emitter. Failure to do this will result in the current capping at some point, if this happens just raise the input voltage accordingly and try again.

If no precision power supply with amperimeter display available a multimeter can be used amidst in amperimeter mode, just make sure you raise input voltage enough. Wink

 

Cheers Smile 

Jerommel
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Barkuti, that video is of the previous model LD25.
But i think Kaidomain has the old version in stock.
I don’t know if the same trick works on the newest version, but the PCB layout it very different.

2Q19

Barkuti
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Mmmkay, I have an LD-25 new version from FastTech laying around and a precision power supply with amperimeter. Will check it out soon, just a little bit of patience.

 

Cheers Party 

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If I need precision power supply with amperimeter than LD-25 goes to super expensive driver category…

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luminarium iaculator wrote:
If I need precision power supply with amperimeter than LD-25 goes to super expensive driver category...

No one said you “need” a precision power supply. You need a way to know how much current is the driver pulling, this can also be achieved with a clamp meter somewhere.

Messing with the sense resistor is possible too. 

 

Cheers Party 

luminarium iaculator
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Barkuti wrote:

luminarium iaculator wrote:
If I need precision power supply with amperimeter than LD-25 goes to super expensive driver category…

No one said you “need” a precision power supply. You need a way to know how much current is the driver pulling, this can also be achieved with a clamp meter somewhere.


Messing with the sense resistor is possible too. 


 


Cheers Party 

Ok…

Than instead of precision power supply with amperimeter please instruct us how to do that with DMM and clamp meter.

I’ll pay you a beer Beer or even couple of them Smile

Pretty please…

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

Ok...

Than instead of precision power supply with amperimeter please instruct us how to do that with DMM and clamp meter.

I'll pay you a beer Beer or even couple of them Smile

Pretty please...

With a DMM and/or clamp meter? 

Wellp, some sort of voltage source is still required, one at least capable of our desired emitter current output and input, with enough voltage headroom for wire and contact voltage drops. A standard 5V 5A power supply may do, or maybe some sort of battery holder gizmo with 2S cells in a low state of charge and some Smile long wires. Heatsinking the driver inside an S2+ pill is a good idea just in case we do not have full input voltage control. If we use a multimeter for current measurement place it somewhere in the circuit, maybe with alligator clamps between spring and voltage source. If clamp meter place it around some connecting wire.

Android's ElectroDroid application has a handy voltage drop calculator where you can set wire lenght, gauge, current, etc.

 

Cheers Party 

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Osram 1mm2 and 2mm2 (bottom) vs shaved xp-l and xm-l2 and xhp35hi


Wink just to compare the emitting area

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Maxtoch M2 Archer with new Osram 2mm

1100m to the church.

180 kCd measured form 3m, from further distance should be more.

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Is the corona now oval instead of circular?

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So if the the oem specs are to be believed for the Archer M2 (600m beam distance = 90kcd), you have AT LEAST doubled the candela.
The Archer M1 uses a de-domed SST-40 and oem specs are 800m / 160kcd so compared to that the results are a little less impressive.
Can I assume the Archer uses some sort of FET / direct current driver and you are still using it? What battery are you using? Can you take tail cap current measurements?

Thanks,

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

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