CRX Rotary - 6th Annual BLF/ Old Lumens Contest Winner

149 posts / 0 new
Last post
Flashy Mike
Flashy Mike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1187
Location: Germany

And everything fits so nicely! I wish I had the skills to do that too.

FmC
FmC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 day ago
Joined: 03/31/2013 - 05:23
Posts: 2194
Location: Brisbane, AU
Thumbs Up Beer
DavidEF
DavidEF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 46 min ago
Joined: 06/05/2014 - 06:00
Posts: 7587
Location: Salisbury, North Carolina, USA
Shocked !!!

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

Magnetic copper charging unit.

Using an old integrated flashlight USB charging board, I removed the momentary side switch, soldered on a 6mm x 2mm magnet to the centre positive contact with a positive pass through wire soldered directly to the side and a negative wire to the negative via on the board then soldered on a 6mm x 2mm magnet to the end of the positive wire.

I had to make a copper enclosure for the unit by cutting a piece of 22mm copper tube and bending it to a smaller diameter when closed together to fit into the copper body core.

Using solder paste and a dual jet flame lighter I applied the solder paste to the open ends, held the joint shut with grips and fused.
To make the enclosure stronger I cut a piece of 0.3mm copper sheet to the correct length to fit inside the thicker outer shell, applied more solder paste, held with the grips again to prevent the original joint re-opening and soldered all together.
The joint of the inner piece is opposite the joint in the outer piece for structural strength.

Some filing later...

Drilled out a 7mm x 2mm slot in the enclosure for the USB port and filed the hole into shape with a small diamond file.

The piece looks happy enough about this Smile 

 

Made into rough shape.

Drilled a 1mm diameter hole for the charging indicator light near the charger board LED and filled with UV setting glue, filed out a slot in the enclosure opposite to the port for a thin copper strip to slide into.
Filed around 0.5mm off the edge of the charging board to fit the enclosure diameter, pressed the charger board into place and soldered to ground with the soldering iron. Also soldered another 4mm brass tube with double springs inside to the negative wire.

Potted components side with a layer of UV setting glue, some kapton tape covering the USB socket and JB welded the spring enclosure in place in line with the filed out slot.

The clear UV glue will carry the charging status indicator light to the external 1mm hole I drilled.

Potted the remaining spaces and positive contact magnet in place with JB weld & tidied up with fine wire wool.

Tip: Use BluTack or similar to remove any metal debris stuck to magnets.

Quick test: Blue Thumbs Up

The reason for the slot I filed into the case & sprung brass enclosure is to accommodate a magnetic copper negative connector, this can slide in position to fit different cell lengths although won't be used in the actual light, but it's there anyway.
The charging unit has a 1A maximum charge current.
Charge test: Red Thumbs Up

Showing how the unit fits into the inner core body.

Added a 0.2mm thick copper skirt for a slight design change.
This is because the charging unit will sit further into the head of the light now with a chosen shallower reflector and give a snug fit in the inner copper tube.

I filed the outside of the charger unit enclosure to reduce the diameter by around 0.4mm, cut a section of copper sheet to size, filed edges smooth with the stones, applied solder paste, held in place with grips and fused together with the jet flame lighter, a slightly nervous moment doing this but it turned out fine Smile

 

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 12 hours ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 12946
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Had lots written but deleted it. l’m just awestruck with your talent. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

chops728
Offline
Last seen: 25 min 55 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2014 - 16:00
Posts: 949
Location: Swampland,La

And your Patience—— Awesome stuff here

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 9 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 1655
Location: Central IL

CRX, you’re on a whole ‘nother level!

I’ve heard that soldering magnets affects their strength. Have you noticed that? Do you have a way to mitigate that effect?

Agro
Agro's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 23 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 4490
Location: Ślōnsk

I recommend Bi57Sn43 solder for magnets, makes things much easier. Smile But watch out for fakes.

MtnDon
MtnDon's picture
Online
Last seen: 9 min 36 sec ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 18:25
Posts: 2383
Location: Canuk in NM

An absolute wonder!!!

BLF Member Map Add your name and location.

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

Thanks very much for the comments, much appreciated Beer

gchart wrote:
I’ve heard that soldering magnets affects their strength. Have you noticed that? Do you have a way to mitigate that effect?

Yeah heat will destroy the magnetism, even a seconds contact with the iron will affect it so you have to be fast, Neo fast… LOL
Not the first time I’ve had to replace a soldered Neodymium magnet because I applied too much heat, plus the damn things will jump onto & stick to your iron tip until they kill themselves and fall off Facepalm

I solder as fast as I can, wetting the surrounding area first and dragging the solder to the magnet. It helps to have the magnet stuck to something else too, to wick away heat, like a piece of thin copper sheet then more magnets on top.

I think type N lose part of their magnetisation permanently at a temperature of around 60-80°C, though there are different types and a lower melting point solder would help too as mentioned but I only use silver solder with added cadmium Silly

MtnDon wrote:
An absolute wonder!!!

Sometimes, I wonder myself Big Smile
FmC
FmC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 day ago
Joined: 03/31/2013 - 05:23
Posts: 2194
Location: Brisbane, AU
CRX wrote:
you have to be fast, Neo fast… LOL
Facepalm
gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 9 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 1655
Location: Central IL

CRX wrote:
you have to be fast, Neo fast…

Thanks for the explanation

DavidEF
DavidEF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 46 min ago
Joined: 06/05/2014 - 06:00
Posts: 7587
Location: Salisbury, North Carolina, USA

Neo wasn’t just fast. He could see the source code of our world and change it to his will. I think this build easily proves that CRX really is the Chosen One. Where’s Agent Smith? Steve

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

DavidEF wrote:
Where’s Agent Smith? Steve

Big Smile
Phlogiston
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 17 hours ago
Joined: 10/27/2016 - 16:57
Posts: 811
Location: Scotland

Re. soldering magnets – I’ve heard that having a big magnet with a thin piece of silicone rubber on top helps.

The idea is that you take the small magnet you’re soldering and lay it on the big magnet with the silicone rubber in between, then solder. As the small magnet cools, the field of the big one remagnetises it. The silicone rubber stops the heat reaching the big magnet to demagnetise it.

Anyone know if that works?

FmC
FmC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 day ago
Joined: 03/31/2013 - 05:23
Posts: 2194
Location: Brisbane, AU

CRX wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
Where’s Agent Smith? Steve

Big Smile

Oh man…. That could explain some things… Shocked

Thumbs Up Beer
CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

Phlogiston wrote:
Re. soldering magnets – I’ve heard that having a big magnet with a thin piece of silicone rubber on top helps.

The idea is that you take the small magnet you’re soldering and lay it on the big magnet with the silicone rubber in between, then solder. As the small magnet cools, the field of the big one remagnetises it. The silicone rubber stops the heat reaching the big magnet to demagnetise it.

Anyone know if that works?


That is an interesting idea, might be worth further investigation. Thumbs Up
CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

Core body midsections soldered together & lighted rotary switch installed.

I cut the inner core copper tube to accomodate an 18350 cell, applied solder paste with toothpicks & made neat with cottonbuds, held positioned parts with grips and used dual jetflame lighter to flow switch board surround in place.

Same technique with the mid section spacer and front o-ring stop.

The slim 1mm gaps are where the rubber o-rings will sit, one for the head unit water resistance and one for keeping the rotary tail smooth in action.

Solid copper wire poked through vias, bent in place and soldered. Copper disc added to centre of ring magnet with JB weld, rebuilt switch temporarily for fitment and magnet strength test.

Modified a little and soldered the bottom contact board into the battery tube with copper pins drilled through the tube into the board, soldered and filed flat.

Top contact board with traces etched in using the same methods as before, resistors & 1206 green LEDs installed.
Each LED has it's own 1206 2kΩ resistor fed by a 1k bleeder resistor bridging the positive contact on the pill to the copper body core.

Soldered top contact disc into rotating copper shell end piece, this unit is now held onto the main body with M4 brass nuts securing to the 4mm brass bolt in the bottom contact board.

The rotating copper shell unit will be fixed to the finished outer flashlight body tail section.

Quick test: Thumbs Up

I installed a temporary XP-G2 emitter along with the old reflector just to get things up & running to check the operation.

The tail LEDs work as most lighted switch setups do, remaining lit until a mode is selected by rotating the end tube section.

MtnDon
MtnDon's picture
Online
Last seen: 9 min 36 sec ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 18:25
Posts: 2383
Location: Canuk in NM

What can I say? Superb!!! Amazing!!! Excellent!!!

BLF Member Map Add your name and location.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 9 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 1655
Location: Central IL

CRX: the MacGyver of copper

pinkpanda3310
pinkpanda3310's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 13 hours ago
Joined: 12/28/2013 - 08:45
Posts: 2086
Location: Perth

Looks amazeballs Thumbs Up

Ronin42
Ronin42's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 12/17/2014 - 22:17
Posts: 1759
Location: Alameda, CA
Jerommel wrote:
C.R.X. Copper Rubbing X-cellence. Smile

+1

(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)

FmC
FmC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 day ago
Joined: 03/31/2013 - 05:23
Posts: 2194
Location: Brisbane, AU

Great build mate, can’t wait to see the finished product Thumbs Up

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

Making the momentary switch button & copper retaining rings.

I cut three pieces of copper tube, two from 22mm diameter and one from 10mm diameter & filed flat.

The larger pieces are for the front bezel and switch retaining ring, the smaller for the tail switch button.

Cut & filed round a 20mm disc from FR4 board, marked three slot positions, drilled and filed out with small diamond files.

Removed some copper from the outer disc and a 1mm copper wire circle soldered to the back of the cover with slightly less diameter than the Fr4 board to avoid unintentional contact to the flashlight body.

10mm copper tube piece soldered to front and diffusion film cut out to stick underneath.


Chemically antiqued copper facing, diffusion film disc put in place and UV setting glue applied.

Showing 20mm x 2.5mm copper switch retaining ring.

Using titanium sheet, I marked & cut out a piece, filed round to 8mm diameter and fixed to the centre of the 10mm x 8mm copper tube with JB weld.

And polished.

Acrylic diffuser disc made to sit on top of LEDs and spring fitted.

  .

Since the brass bolt is connected directly to the battery negative it seemed logical to fit a spring here and have a momentary on switch connection.

I also made a temporary brass casing from 25mm x 22mm brass tube and inserted the copper retaining rings, though they are not fixed in place.

.

The outer casing, reflector and LED are still temporary but this gives an idea of the finished form.

Test of momentary tail switch button Thumbs Up

Still waiting on some parts to arrive but we're getting there  Smile Thumbs Up 

pinkpanda3310
pinkpanda3310's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 13 hours ago
Joined: 12/28/2013 - 08:45
Posts: 2086
Location: Perth

All that “temporary” stuff and it’s still a functional light LOL

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 3737
Location: Scotland

Yeah, I’m still waiting on the LED, reflector, glass and they sent the wrong tube for the outer shell but I got not patience and need to see it working Big Smile

MtnDon
MtnDon's picture
Online
Last seen: 9 min 36 sec ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 18:25
Posts: 2383
Location: Canuk in NM

Amazing number of hand made pieces. All nice

BLF Member Map Add your name and location.

Pavlo
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 39 min ago
Joined: 12/13/2015 - 10:37
Posts: 411
Location: Canada

Absolutely amazing build with rotary UI. Beyond impressed.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 10 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 15669
Location: Amsterdam

Had to catch up on a whole lot of story, amazing work, so many good ideas, so well exercised, so many patient hours of work. Thumbs Up

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 12 hours ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 12946
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

I’ve no idea how you make such intricate pieces. One day you will make a video. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Pages