Jerommel's Hand Job 2018 - 6th annual BLF / Old Lumen Scratch Made Light Contest

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Jerommel
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Jerommel's Hand Job 2018 - 6th annual BLF / Old Lumen Scratch Made Light Contest

Hi all,

2nd time i entry this yearly contest.
Main goal: Finishing a working light. Party
Previous attempt (2014) kind of failed due to running out of time, so i thought i’d keep it straight and simple.
So here are the parts:

It’s gonna be a copper 20700 triple with Osram Oslon Square high CRI warm white with a lovely tint and a bunch of real red.
These LEDs are no power houses, so i’ll run them on 1 Ampere each, using a 3 Ampere FET CC driver.
It will be USB rechargeable too.
I’ll use Kaidomain LED board and optics.
Little Omten reverse clicky side switch.
Basically the light wil be built on / around the 20700 battery, which will not be removable.
…at least, not easily…
Trying to make it as compact as possible.

Q

Edited by: Jerommel on 11/01/2018 - 22:27
raccoon city
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You gotta be careful with those Handy J's...

You don't want to end up like CRX:

crx

Jerommel
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So i started this afternoon, it is now 3:28 AM here..

Pictures!

Without the wrapper it nearly slides in the tube, if both were perfectly round, which they’re not…

The Osrams are 3030 LEDs, which had to be reflowed onto the triple 3535 board.

Took some time, effort and cusses to get them all positioned decent enough.

Need a shelf for the LED board to sit on inside the tube.

20 × 20 × 1.5 mm heat spreader to make the shelf.

Must be soldered in place.

Needs holes for wires and 2 tiny screws.

Can you see the damage on the business end of the tube?
I dropped it on the concrete floor… Facepalm
I’ll address it later. Maybe need some extra ring around there to make it a little more impact resistant..

Time to do the electrical bits.

These charger boards are quite okay.
I won’t need the protection circuit though.

battery connections.

Cut down board goes on top.

Epoxied, soldered, works !

Switch gets glued to bottom of driver.

And that gets glued on top of the charger board.

Tested and working. Thumbs Up

More epoxy for strength.

CONTINUED HERE

Q

DavidEF
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Well, you did say it would be compact… Shocked

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

everydaysurvivalgear
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Looks good mate!

Why take the wrapper of? why not just use a 18650?

pinkpanda3310
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Great start Star looking good Thumbs Up

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Interesting!

Jerommel
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
Looks good mate!

Why take the wrapper of? why not just use a 18650?

Well, i bought 2 of those 20700’s almost a year ago now, but i haven’t got anything to use them in..
And then i found that, with a little persuasion, it can fit inside a 22mm diameter copper pipe when you remove the wrapper.
Triple board and optic also fit snugly in this size tube.

Q

FmC
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Great start to your build Thumbs Up

I have a couple of those charging circuits for my build – Interesting to see how you cut them down like that.

CRX
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Cool Thumbs Up

Flashy Mike
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Looks interesting! Pretty compact indeed.

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Nice Wink

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Very nice with a couple of cool new concepts! Thumbs UpThumbs Up

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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Thanks for the encouraging comments!

Flashy Mike wrote:
Looks interesting! Pretty compact indeed.

I could have used the Convoy S9 e-switch driver with USB charging port, but i didn’t like the idea of parasitic drain, so i used a reverse clicky set up in stead.
This takes up more space though, and it will be a bit more of a challenge to sort out the switch button.

And that will be the next part of the build:
Holes for the USB port, charging LED light and switch button.
Also have to widen the copper tube a tad to get the assembly in without too much force.
Lining the lot up properly will be a bit of a challenge too..

Q

MtnDon
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Very cool, very nice, Jerommel. Thumbs Up

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Looking great, Jerommel! Very cool setup so far, I like how you’ve got everything stacked tight and epoxied in place (JB Weld?). Interesting how you’ve trimmed down the charging circuit. Are the eliminated bits just for over/under voltage protection?

djozz
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The battery does not have its vent holes anymore btw, whatever the implication is of that.

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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djozz wrote:
The battery does not have its vent holes anymore btw, whatever the implication is of that.

Pipe Bomb! Evil

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

Jerommel
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Yeah, maybe i’ll send it to some globalists.. Big SmileParty

But it’s true, it’s gonna have a harder time venting.
I decided it was not that important.

Q

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Nice work Jeroen. Looking forward seeing the end result.

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Geuzzz wrote:
Nice work Jeroen. Looking forward seeing the end result.

Big SmileThumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

Jerommel
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Well, let’s hope not that it will end like that.. ^

I will update this evening / night with pics.
Had a bit of a set back, but that’s what you get when you build hastily and without proper planning up front..

Q

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Geuzzz wrote:
Nice work Jeroen. Looking forward seeing the end result.

Me too ! Beer

Q

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Pics from yesterday and today with (quite a lot of) text:

So, the copper tube was too narrow to get the battery in, or rather, to get it out again.
I originally planned to hammer the tube over the internal assembly (battery, charger PCB, switch and driver), but this didn’t seem wise, so after looking for anything to ream the tube out, this was the only thing i could use:

Subtle tool..
This SDS drill is just over 20mm across the chisel point, and i used some household scrubbing fluid along with it.
This did the job, but the outside of the tube got a little wider too, and not evenly, so…

…the outside had to be sanded back to (near) perfection.

Drilled the switch button hole too.

Also drastically enlarged the centre hole in the shelf, because…

…this is how close the driver board will be to the shelf, so i needed to make some room for the slightly thick wires (22 AWG)…
This doesn’t look beneficial for the thermal path from LED’s to the shelf, but i figured it would still be good enough.
The LEDs are mounted on a DTP copper LED board, and although it’s a thin LED board, i think it will still conduct the heat pretty well to the shelf.
…but i did enlarge that hole more than necessary…
O well..

Switch button hole.

The tube is not 1 mm too long, as it turns out…

Not yet sure how to finish the tail.

Size comparison with 2 compact 18650 lights:

(Yes, the DQG is empty..)

_______________
_______________

And then, i noticed some problems in my plan…

It was the lack of a plan, i guess..

The USB port sat pretty deep, so it could only be charged with a long micro USB plug, and then it still didn’t go in far enough to snap in place..

The charging indicator LEDs didn’t line up nicely either with the side (at 90° of the USB port / switch.

Conclusion: the charger board should move a little towards the wall of the tube to solve these things.
But i used epoxy… No way i can move it..

Additionally, trying some switch boots, the switch was sitting a bit deeper than i would have liked.

And another problem with the switch itself occurred !?
Probably too much heat when soldering, but it had some problems every 8 clicks (full rotation of the inner parts every 8 clicks, or, i think it’s 8, could be 12 too..)
It could be traces of super glue too that crept in too..
Injecting WD40 with a syringe did help, and possibly it will improve further with use.

SOLUTION:
I have plenty of those charging boards (ordered 10 of them at the time).
I have another 20700.
I have a bunch of small Omtens.
I have another LD25 driver.
…so i make another assembly… Facepalm

That’s a lot better.
It cost me a PCB trace though (that’s why the 1st attempt ended up so deep), so i had to lead the + to the indicator LEDs with a wire (yellow).

The switch has to be glued on top of the the charger IC again, but both go more towards the outside.
Need something on the back of the switch to glue it to the charger IC.

A bit of cotton from a cotton tip swab drenched with super glue will do.

Driver on top etcetera, and compared to the first assembly:

Goals met for now.
Bit of a waste of parts on the first assembly though..
No idea what to do with it or the parts it consists of..
All epoxied…
O well, who cares. Beer

CONTINUED HERE

Q

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That is Prototype #1. Wink Seeing far enough ahead to avoid all part fitment issues can be quite difficult, especially when working with such a compact size. Good going though!!

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Nice progress. Part of the fun is overcoming issues that pop up, when building by the seat of your pants OopsBeer

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Whew, that stinks (having to rebuild). But at least there was time to do so and you had the parts around. Other than the waste of parts, building a prototype certainly helps you figure out how not to do things! Big Smile

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Is it the top of the 20700 cell casing that stops the USB plug from being inserted all the way, or the opening in the copper tube? If it’s the latter, then maybe the first build isn’t completely hopeless. You could make your contest light using build number two, to get the best results, but still continue to make number one into a less-than-perfect version with a larger opening for the charge port and a small metal or plastic extension for the button on the switch that’s too far back.

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

Jerommel
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DavidEF wrote:
Is it the top of the 20700 cell casing that stops the USB plug from being inserted all the way, or the opening in the copper tube? If it’s the latter, then maybe the first build isn’t completely hopeless. You could make your contest light using build number two, to get the best results, but still continue to make number one into a less-than-perfect version with a larger opening for the charge port and a small metal or plastic extension for the button on the switch that’s too far back.

Yeah, the copper pipe is in the way with #1
The mechanical electrical problem with the switch kinda sucks too..
We’ll see. Smile

Q

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Looking good Jerommel! Keep up the good work. Thumbs Up

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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Nice work!

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