“REVIEW” - WUBEN T70 Camouflage – XHP70.2 Led – 4200 Lumens [PIC HEAVY] ***Extension tube = 2 x 26650***

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MascaratumB
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“REVIEW” - WUBEN T70 Camouflage – XHP70.2 Led – 4200 Lumens [PIC HEAVY] ***Extension tube = 2 x 26650***

Hi BLF!

This is my review of the Wuben T70 Camouflage version. The flashlight was sent by Wuben after answering this thread (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62371). I thank to Jelina for sending it after solving some shipping issues!

As always, I will provide my honest and unbiased review, showing some photos of the flashlight and giving my opinion on it!

Post #1 – Specification, Flashlight, Accessories, User Interface
Post #2Beamshots & Considerations

So far there are some reviews/comparisons of this flashlight:
Quad-XXX: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62552
tatasal: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62792
Kit Latura: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62878 (external review in Spanish here: https://linternas.net/review-wuben-t70/)

Online, on YT, you’ll find some more:
(EN) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZB-Q_l385rc
(EN) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GulFOyGWS5o
(EN) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDVqEsN-aCU
(DE) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guL29JhIWhA

Let’s start this Wink

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GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Body Colour: Camouflage (4 colours: green, beige, gray, black)
Material: Hard Anodized Type III Aluminium
Emitters: Cree XHP70.2 (Neutral White)
Lens: Double Side AR Coated Lens
Battery: 26650 Li-Ion
Switch: Electronic Side Switch
In-built charger: USB-C (5V/2A)
Max runtime: 35 hours
Max beam distance: 250 meters
*Max output*:4200 lumens
Candela: 15750 cd
Waterproofness: IP68 (2 meters underwater, 1 hour)
Impact resistance: 1 meter
Low Voltage Warning: Yes

Reverse Polarity Protection: Not Specified (I tested the flashlight with the battery inverted and it didn’t turn ON and didn’t get hot, so I believe it has RPP).

————————————————————————————————————————

PACKAGE: THE FLASHLIGHT & ACCESSORIES

The Wuben T70 arrived very well packed, wrapped in a plastic bag, tape and bubble plastic!
The similarly to what is done with the Wuben E05, the box is black and blue. Previous flashlights’ boxes I got (Wuben TO10R and TO47R) were black and purple!

The box is very protective, being opened by the side, not top or bottom. It has magnetic closure.
In the front and in the back we find some short information about the general specs of the light. On top, a hole to hang the box, and on the bottom, the LED and body information.

As can be seen, in the interior there is protective thick foam to avoid impacts or damage to the flashlight.

Opening the box, what do we find? The Wuben T70 flashlight (inside a plastic bag), with a Wuben 26650 battery inside (there was a plastic piece on the negative contact to hinder draining or activation during shipping); a black box with the accessories inside – USB-C cable, holster, lanyard, 2 o-rings; the Warranty card; and the User Manual.

And about the Flashlight?
Well, here it is, my first 26650 flashlight as well as my first Camouflage light!
At first I thought “No, it’s too much coloured for me!”, but when I got the flashlight, I guess I felt for it and loved the colours instantly!!! [I guess owning black lights or SS or grey is getting boring , so this surely opens my appetite for different hosts!]

The flashlight delivers all Wuben quality in the outside and on the inside!
Machining is awesome with no flaws, on the exterior and interior! Anodizing is well done, it is not aggressive nor soft, and makes it very good to the touch and handling! There is no knurling, only some grooves in the battery tube and some cooling fins on the head.

The flashlight can be opened and has 3 parts, head, battery tube and tail! On the front it has the e-switch (with the typical W button) and on the back (not symmetrically), it has the USB-C charging port covered by a rubber cover.

Focusing on the head, now!
The Wuben T70 has a stainless steel bezel with some grooves (depending on the perspective) to be used in an self-defensive / aggressive way or simply to let light pass when the flashlight is laying with the head towards the ground!

Disassembling the head, we find what’s above the reflector and LED. There we have the stainless steel bezel, a thin o-ring, the double AR Coated glass lens, and a thicker sealing o-ring that fits around the lens.

The lens is well made, with round edges.

The Wuben T70 has an Orange Peel (OP) reflector, that allows a more widespread beam! It is made of aluminium and has not flaws as well!

Below the reflector we find the LED, an XHP70.2 (Neutral White), protected by a black gasket, screwed into the MCPCB. The MCPCB itself, is copper, 2mm thick (from what I can say, I didn’t disassemble it!)

On the bottom side of the head, we can see the *driver*…well, at least the spring and the black plastic protection of the driver. I didn’t take it out too, as it seems to be glued.
We can see that there are double springs in the driver, a thicker one on the exterior and a thinner one on the inside.

Taking a look at the fins on the head, they’re here to improve heat dissipation! It is needed, this is a XHP70.2 flashlight, so…it is better to keep the head cooled Silly Also, they are barely noticed in some positions due to the camouflage pattern. But they exist Big Smile


As mentioned above, the grooves of the bezel allow the light to pass when it’s facing down in a table of another surface.

About the battery tube, it has some grooves as well, that help having a better grip on the flashlight! On each tip, the tube as a sealing o-ring. The threads are square and arrived well lubricated!

The edges are well cut and on the bottom part of the tube, we find the indication for battery polarity! Despite this, the tube is reversible, so the flashlight can be turned ON if the tube is reversed.

On the tailcap, we can find a lanyard hole on the outside, and on the inside, double springs (as on the driver, a thicker on the outside, a thinner on the inside!). There are no magnets or other artifacts there!

DIMENSIONS and WEIGHT
Some data on the flashlight measurements and weighting!

————————————————————————————————————————

USB-C CHARGING & BATTERY LEVEL INDICATION

As mentioned above, the Wuben T70 has in-built charger through USB-C cable. The USB-C port is on the opposite side of the Side Switch, protected by a rubber cover.

It is advisable by the manufacturer to use 5V/2A equipment to charge the battery directly into the flashlight! The side switch will indicate the charging status through blue or red backlight:

According to specs, the battery will charge in 4 hours through USB-C charging!

Charging 90-100% : constant blue light
Charging 41-90% : blinking blue light
Charging 16-40% : constant red light
Charging under 15% : blinking red light

—————
The battery level indication is shown on the E-switch, through blinks or constant red or blue light+! According to specs these are the levels and correspondent red/blue lights:

- Battery level 100% – 80% : constant blue light (+/- 5 seconds)
- Battery level 79% – 41% : blinking blue light (8 blinks, +/- 5 seconds)
- Battery level 29% – 15% : constant red light (+/- 5 seconds)
- Battery level under 15% : blinking red light

*(later, when the battery depletes, I will mention at what Voltage it starts blinking red or blue)

————————————————————————————————————————

ACCESSORIES

Onto the rest of the package now, we get the accessories!

First the User Manual! Sorry for being a bit dark due to light contrast!
As for other Wuben flashlights, it is written in 4 different Languages (English, Deutsch, Chinese and Japanese). English is well written and explains pretty much what we need to know about this flashlight.

The points addressed in it are: Warnings; Products List; Product Features; Product Operation (Structure, Installation, Operation, Lock and Unlock, Charging, Low Battery Warning); Parameters; Maintenance; FAQs; Warranty Policy (Under and Beyond Warranty).

Besides the UM, we got some more nice stuff in the box, namely a holster for the flashlight, with a smaller compartment on the side, where another small flashlight can be put or a spare battery!

I tried to use the holster and found out that it will be better using it the head upwards instead of downwards, due to its bigger diameter!

Inside the flashlight there is a Wuben branded 26650 5000mAh 3.7V Li-Ion battery (18.5Wh, ABT5000C), protected with raised flat top (70,3mm length). I have no means to test this cell, sorry I can’t provide much data on it. It fits well on the battery, without rattlings.

“We Are Family” Big Smile Blushing

————————————————————————————————————————

USER INTERFACE & (UN)LOCK
The Wuben T70 has 2 modes: 1 “regular” mode with 4 levels + Strobe & SOS and 1 mode consisting on ramping (also called “continuous outputs”). Flashlight has memory, except for Strobe & SOS.
Let’s explain how does this work:

FROM OFF
- Single click: Turns the light ON in the last used mode (levels or ramping).
- Short press & hold (+/- 1 second): Momentary Turbo (releasing the switch turns light OFF)
- Long press & hold (+2 seconds): Constant Turbo (releasing the switch maintains Turbo; single click turns the light OFF)
- Double Click: Strobe

  1. another double click enters SOS;
  2. double click from SOS returns to Strobe;
  3. a single click while on Strobe or SOS turns the light OFF.

- Triple Click: Locks or Unlocks the flashlight (the LED blinks 3 times for each situation).

—————————/////—————————

FROM ON
A) While on the “regular” mode with 4 levels

- Single click: +cycles through the 4 levels Low > Medium > High > Turbo
- Long press (2 seconds): turns the light OFF from any mode
- Double click: Strobe

  1. another double click enters SOS;
  2. double click from SOS returns to Strobe;
  3. a single click while on Strobe or SOS returns to the last used level.

- Triple click: changes from “regular” mode to “ramping” (the LED blinks 2 times on this change).

—————————

B) While on the ramping mode

Overall interface when on ramping:
- Single click: turns the light OFF
- Press and hold: Ramp up or down, depending on the last “ramping direction”
- Triple click: changes from “ramping” to “regular” mode (the LED blinks 2 times on this change).

—————————

Specificities of the ramping mode:
After changing from regular mode to ramping, the light will stay ON in the lowest level. Then we can perform:

1) Operation 1: Press & hold from that level – without turning the light OFF – will ramp UP.
OR
2) Operation 2: Single click turns the light OFF. When turning it ON again, it will come up with an output equivalent to HIGH level, and press & hold will only ramp UP.

—————————

NOTE 1) Ramping can only be done in 1 direction at a time. Meaning: if you start ramping UP, it will need to go until the highest output to start ramping down. The same goes for ramping down.

NOTE 2) Ramping doesn’t stop on the lowest or highest level. Meaning: when the ramping reaches its lowest and highest limits, the light will blink 1 time but the ramping on the opposite direction will start right away.

NOTE 3) Complete ramp up or down takes about 6,50 seconds to reach the lowest or highest outputs.

NOTE 4) Strobe & SOS are not accessible from ramping mode.

————————————————————————————————————————

OUTPUT AND RUNTIME

The information about output and runtime is given for the 4 regular modes!

Low : 40 lm ///// 35 h
Medium : 400 lm ///// 7,5 h
High : 1300 lm ///// 3.5 h
Turbo : 4200 ///// 2h

Strobe : 4200 lumens
SOS : 100 lumens

NOTE 1: Nice thing that SOS has a lower output than Strobe! In an emergency case, it will last longer for sure Wink

NOTE 2: I guess it must be said that being a high output flashlight, it will get hot with extended use of High or Turbo levels. However, not being a hot rod as the Emisar D4 and having a thick body, it can be held in the hands without any issues!

NOTE 3: I didn’t have the time to make an amateur test of how long does it take to step down from Turbo, and that is not specified as well! If I get that time later, I will do it and show the results.

————————————————————————————————————————
And this was post #1! Tout de suite, post #2 with beamshots and considerations on this flashlight!

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

GIVEAWAY - 1

Edited by: MascaratumB on 01/27/2019 - 18:05
MascaratumB
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————————————————————————————————————————
Post# 2 – BEAMSHOTS AND CONSIDERATIONS

FLASHLIGHT COMPARISON

Let’s start with some flashlight comparison, just to get a notion on the T70’s dimensions!

First, the Wuben family: T70 > TO46R > TO10R > E05

Then, with other lights:
Odepro KL52 > Wuben T70 > Zanflare F1 > Olight M2R Warrior > Convoy S2+

And finally, with my other XHP70.2 flashlight, the Amutorch AM30, my biggest and most powerful flashlight (so far Silly )!

Now, some “under UV” light beamshots as well, to check on the LED!

A comparison with the Amutorch AM30 (left, with SMO reflector).

Let’s see what it shows with a close-up above the LED. In the lowest mode, there are some stripes due to the CC driver. No PWM is visible without camera.

Here’s a look to the beam pattern as well.
Being this a Cree XHP70.2 LED it produces a yellowish shift in the corona that even the OP reflector can’t disguise. It is normal. In outdoor situation it is not highly noticeable unless on the lowest mode in some occasions. If we are not hunting white walls, it will not be troublesome! Silly

I compared the beam of the Wuben T70 with the Amutorch AM30 (that used a XHP70.2 as well, but thas a larger SMO reflector) and it can be seen that the OP reflector spreads the light on a not-so-focused beam.
Left: AM30 – Right: Wuben T70

————————————————————————————————————————
BEAMSHOTS

Before beamshots, this is a reflection of the light directed to the ceiling, in order to perceive how it lights up the dark Big Smile

And now the beamshots!!
INDOOR
1,5M >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 2M

OUTDOOR
5M >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 12M

16M

20M

40M >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 45M

60M

Flashlight beam comparison
I picked my most powerful flashlights (I don’t have many, but they fit my current needs Wink ) and made a comparison on their highest output The T70 has the blue W button:

Wuben T70 >>> Olight M2R Warrior >>> Emisar D4 >>> Amutorch AM30


————————————————————————————————————————

CONSIDERATIONS

First, I want to thank again to Jelina and Wuben for sending this flashlight for review! Thanks!

Second, I will tell what I think of the Wuben T70!

What do I like?
1) Overall quality is excellent! This must be stated in the first place, as all that is related to the body and components is great, without flaws or functioning issues!

2) I love this Camouflage pattern! I really do, as it is different from what I had so far, and because the anodizing that makes this pattern is also great! I am not sure if it will wear fast or not, but I will find out with more use.

3) Thick body with good ergonomics! This is my first 26650 flashlight so I never had a battery with these body characteristics, namely diameter. Being a thick body flashlight and larger than the 18650s, it fits well in the hand, being easy to locate the front and the back (as the switch and the USB port are in opposite faces but not symmetrically!!!). That is an improvement looking at the TO46R for example.

4) The output! It lights well in some hundreds or meters, despite having a OP reflector and not SMO, what would make it more throwy.

5) The mode spacing! As ever, Wuben nailed it , and the mode spacing is perfect, having perfect usability in all of them.

6) Shortcut to Turbo and Momentary Turbo from OFF! I like these 2 features, once momentary Turbo helps to blink as a distress signal and the constant Turbo from OFF allows having a burst of light when needed!

7) Hidden Strobe and SOS! I don’t need to say much more, do I? Silly

—————————
—————————

What would I change?

1) Shortcut to turbo from ON. I would implement this as another feature once it may be important to have Turbo without having to cycle through all the modes.

2) Ramping mode. I would probably change the way the ramping is operated, introducing the possibility to ramp up and down without having to do the whole path upwards or downwards to ramp in the opposite direction!

3) Introduce a Moonlight Level! Well, even this being a flashlight designed mostly for outdoor use, eventually military (due to the camouflage), I would introduce a Moonlight level outside the 4 regular modes, with direct access from OFF. It is always useful to have a lower mode on a flashlight like this, in my opinion!

4) Configurable Memory! Well, on the one side, having memory for the last used mode is not that bad being an “outdoor” flashlight, but I would prefer to have it configurable so that users can chose what to have. I know it is not a common thing to do in these companies’ flashlights, but it would be a nice feature to have!

—————————

Last but not least, some CAMOUFLAGE photos, where the T70 conceals in the Autumn leaves Blushing

—————————

This said, I repeat that this is a very pleasant flashlight, with superb quality and competence! The smaller issues/changes I mentioned are not big constraints but would make this flashlight even better! I guess some of these UI things will be surpassed on the Wuben TO50R Wink

Thanks for reading and let me know about questions or comments you have!!

Best regards! Thumbs Up

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

GIVEAWAY - 1

BlueSwordM
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Can you get a magnet close to the springs?

I would like to know if they are steel, or made of a copper alloy.

Thanks again!

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

MascaratumB
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Can you get a magnet close to the springs?

I would like to know if they are steel, or made of a copper alloy.

Thanks again!

Yes I can! Just did it and the magnet didn’t stick on the springs (both, driver and tail)! Thumbs Up
Actually, the magnet doesn’t stick to any part of the flashlight on the exterior, nor the interior! lol

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

GIVEAWAY - 1

BlueSwordM
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Nice. That means they’re using high current phosphor bronze/BeCu springs.

That means there shouldn’t be a problem regarding to spring voltage drop affecting turbo output.

I have to say though. The light is massive, even if using a 26650.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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BlueSwordM wrote:
Nice. That means they’re using high current phosphor bronze/BeCu springs.

That means there shouldn’t be a problem regarding to spring voltage drop affecting turbo output.

I have to say though. The light is massive, even if using a 26650.

Oops, I guess I missed your comment all this time Facepalm
Yup, if compared to other lights (namely the smaller ones as Emisar D4S), this light is big, but I can tell you I’ve been abusing it and the mass allows it to sustain turbo quite well! It gets hot, no doubt, but at least at naked eye, there is few output decay within a certain range of time (not measured, btw)!

I returned to the thread to mention that:
- below 3.7V or 3.6V (didn’t measure the voltage at the time), the highest output cannot be reached using the regular group mode (through ramping it can go higher that the regular modes);

- at about 3.40V the switch started blinking red, so these must be the 15% indicated on the manual;

- after blinking for a while, it went back to “normal” (with short constant red) for some time, and then when I changed mode, it went blinking red again

- at this voltage (+- 3.4V), using the regular group will only allow Low and Medium modes and occasionally High!

- when using Strobe (double frequency, characteristic from Wuben), on a silent environment you’ll hear the circuit internally, like if it was a fan with double frequency!

After using it for a while now, I can say that this light is reliable and is really well built, no matter what!
Even if it is “big” I guess someone wanting a good light for outdoor, will be happy with this one!! Thumbs Up

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

GIVEAWAY - 1

MascaratumB
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Some weeks ago, Jelina from Wuben sent me an extension tube for the Wuben T70, so that it can fit 2×26650 batteries.
The tube arrived some days ago, and here are come pics.
Note: I don’t have more 26650 batteries, so I had to test the flashlight with 2×18650s and some tubes inside. Still, it worked !

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

GIVEAWAY - 1

peg matite
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Thanks for the informative review.

Interesting. I really like 26650 form factor, but I sounds like ramping usage would be frustrating. Keep it in stepped mode.

MascaratumB
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peg matite wrote:
Thanks for the informative review.

Interesting. I really like 26650 form factor, but I sounds like ramping usage would be frustrating. Keep it in stepped mode.


Thanks Wink
Yup, I do prefer to use it with the regular modes instead the “ramping”!
It is a pitty as this is a very nice little, that with a slightly improvement in the UI would be a complete winner! Still it is a solid and good working light Wink

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

GIVEAWAY - 1

robertsig
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 I assume it is an E-Switch.  Can you measure the parasitic drain in standby?

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robertsig wrote:

 I assume it is an E-Switch.  Can you measure the parasitic drain in standby?

Yup, it is an e-switch, but I have no instruments to measure parasitic drain Sad
Sorry Sad

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Tom E
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The camo appears to be powder coated, or some sort of spray painted coating, on my T70 camo. It spilled on the inside of the battery tube, and suspicious colored soft fragments around the tube to head threads. I pulled the driver out of mine - oh boy, 3 PCB's, 2 of which are populated with SMD's on both sides. LED wires are tiny - 24 AWG.

To remove the driver, you must de-solder the LED wires, unthread the retaining ring on the switch, and feed the switch into the cavity because the switch wires are too short - knowing that trick it's then easy for the driver assembly to come out.

MascaratumB
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Tom E wrote:

The camo appears to be powder coated, or some sort of spray painted coating, on my T70 camo. It spilled on the inside of the battery tube, and suspicious colored soft fragments around the tube to head threads. I pulled the driver out of mine – oh boy, 3 PCB’s, 2 of which are populated with SMD’s on both sides. LED wires are tiny – 24 AWG.


To remove the driver, you must de-solder the LED wires, unthread the retaining ring on the switch, and feed the switch into the cavity because the switch wires are too short – knowing that trick it’s then easy for the driver assembly to come out.

TomE, I know that a while has passed since your post, but did you take any photo of the driver and the structure of the head?
Would a “normal” driver (lets assume with a different UI) be suitable for this light?

Also, how should I measure the parasitic drain? I have a small multimeter now, but don’t know how to meausure that…

Here are some extra photos of this light Blushing

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Tom E
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Yes. Pics to follow in a couple mins - updated now. Guess I didn't post these before, I'll post all I took:

Tail springs:

Driver springs:

I swapped the thin 24 AWG with heavier (think 20 AWG?)

Stock MCPCB all clean:

It's chunkie for sure:

Can't get to my notes right now, but might have gotten a bump from the wire mods - pretty sure that's all I did, plus cleaning up any issues with the MCPCB, MX-4 grease, etc.

 

 A 3 board boost driver - lot of electronics. Notice the R050 and big cap are there twice? Interesting...

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For parasitic drain, I have 2 meters capable of doing it. Typical DMM's have a mA or uA setting - for mine you must move the probe connectors - as marked on the DMM. Remove the tailcap and bridge the batt- end to the tube. Be careful though - don't turn the light ON while connected this way - it may blow a fuse, because the low amp measuring mode in the DMM is sensitive to high amps. With my NarsilM lights, I blink the main LED twice on turn ON - that can fry some DMM's. Forgot details but pretty sure it only risks the low amp measuring mode. Some are fixable as well.

Least this is the way I do it - might be other methods.

For the driver, it sure is do-able. The switch is connected off the base board which might work better. A piggyback driver running NarsilM or Anduril could work, but, (big but) you can't run an XHP70 or any 6V LED on the one cell. Maybe a 3V XHP50.2 but LED positioning would have to be worked out, as well as LED height.

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Tom E wrote:

For parasitic drain, I have 2 meters capable of doing it. Typical DMM’s have a mA or uA setting – for mine you must move the probe connectors – as marked on the DMM. Remove the tailcap and bridge the batt- end to the tube. Be careful though – don’t turn the light ON while connected this way – it may blow a fuse, because the low amp measuring mode in the DMM is sensitive to high amps. With my NarsilM lights, I blink the main LED twice on turn ON – that can fry some DMM’s. Forgot details but pretty sure it only risks the low amp measuring mode. Some are fixable as well.


Least this is the way I do it – might be other methods.


For the driver, it sure is do-able. The switch is connected off the base board which might work better. A piggyback driver running NarsilM or Anduril could work, but, (big but) you can’t run an XHP70 or any 6V LED on the one cell. Maybe a 3V XHP50.2 but LED positioning would have to be worked out, as well as LED height.

TomE, thank you very very much for the detailed photos and the explanations as well! Awesome Wink
That surely is a different driver architecture, but it also seems to show the reliability that Wuben wanted to give to this flashlight! I am no good in electronics, but I noticed the R050 there!

I will check if I can measure the drain, as I am also learning this. But maybe I will try it first in another light with more or less the same specs ( just to check if I know how to do it)!

Hum, about the driver…well, I start to see too many things I don’t know if would be able to do … Facepalm
I thought I’d be able to change the driver only, without piggyback, but that and the LED swap…I may incur into a delicate path for my knowledge.

I need to re-think what I was thinking as this light is “precious” and is serving me well, so I don’t want to ruin it…

Thank you very very much once again for taking the time to post the photos and the explanation! Beer Hat

And…that MCPCB is WOW Shocked

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

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