The general Sofirn development thread

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Sari33
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SKV89 wrote:
Being able to order custom lights with custom emitter options is excellent! I’m interested in the following. How do I order?

1) SP36S Simple UI (not Anduril/Narsil) w/ 2x LH351D 2700k and 2x LH351D 5000k

2) SF14 w/ SST-20 2700K

3) SP30A w/ SST-20 2700K

4) SC31B w/ SST-20 2700K

5) IF25 w/ 2x LH351D 2700k and 2x LH351D 5000k

SP10S 2700k

IF25 2700k Sand or Blue/Red color!

FlashPilot
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Lightbringer wrote:
Do you have populated Q8 LED boards maybe with LH351Ds (bare LED board would be okay, though)? And a matching Q8 reflector?

I’ve gotten disgusted with Ali lately, and abandoned the cart there on multiple occasions with all their crap.

Great idea. Id be in for 2 and possibly more.

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YogibearAl wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
I got the very neat little D25S headlamp today. The special purchase price offered at Amazon is really amazing, this is an SST-40 light (times two) and has built in USB micro charging that is cleverly concealed under a fast thread sleeve. The switch/driver is behind a threaded plug style end cap and the fast thread sleeve (square threads even!) surrounds the switch. Nicely done!

There are ridges in the back of the tube that correspond to a plastic tooth on the holder such that swiveling the light in the holder is easy and held in place in a wide range of motion. Also quite clever. And the light is easily popped into and out of the holder. Sofirn includes a 2800 mAh protected cell with the light as well. All in all an exceptional deal with a price point that is difficult to best ($20 and change with the coupon code)

The downside is that it doesn’t make the claimed 1200 lumens from the twin SST-40’s. It only draws 2.55A at the tail on a Molicel P26A, so the 850 lumens it does make is understandable and at this level it takes quite a while for it to warm up. The unibody construction means the entire light absorbs the heat, also pretty cool. Even internal fins behind the emitters to help spread heat throughout.

Cool small headlamp, cell supplied and internal charging (cord also supplied) and the head band itself is also decent. Would make great gifts for Christmas…. Wink

I was looking at this light and it would be great for a lot that I do, but as with the SP40, no moonlight mode. Aux LED in red would be nice too, but that may raise the price. I think a moonlight mode would get me to order this right away. A good consistent regulated mode is way more useful than a turbo mode that only lasts a few minutes for a headlamp. I read the specs and it says “LOW” mode is 70lm. Too bright. Maybe add a moonlight mode, and make the highest 850 lumens, and just forget about the 1200?


Some folks are swapping the MCU to run RampingIOS. This is inexpensive. I think there are also replacement drivers to run Anduril as well, but that’s not so inexpensive.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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gchart
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Yup, I’ve shipped out several pre-flashed MCUs with RampingIOS (D4 V2 UI) and they are very inexpensive. Makes a decent cheap headlamp quite a bit better. Been doing the same thing with the Convoy H1 (my preference though admittedly slightly more expensive).

YogibearAl
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gchart wrote:
Yup, I’ve shipped out several pre-flashed MCUs with RampingIOS (D4 V2 UI) and they are very inexpensive. Makes a decent cheap headlamp quite a bit better. Been doing the same thing with the Convoy H1 (my preference though admittedly slightly more expensive).

For me to H1 will work but for friends that may not have li-ion chargers then the USB charging of the SP40 works good. So with a preflashed MCU, you just desolder the old one and replace with new MCU. Are there instructions with images on what to replace? I’d love to give it a try. I have a SP40 and H1 on the way. Smile

gchart
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Unfortunately I gave my SP40 to a co-worker before I had a chance to try swapping MCUs on it. So I just have ones for the D25 (and some D10) and the H1. It’s too bad because the SP40 is a pretty nice headlamp. I’m not a big fan of the button position (on the end) but that’s minor. Oh, and some of the UI. And the driver, which appears to be current-limiting resistor setup where output continuously drops linearly with voltage.

Based on these images (not mine) the MCU also appears to be a 14-pin PIC. So short a complete driver swap, I’m afraid I’ll leave the SP40 right where it’s at Sad

Both the D25 and H1 are pretty easy to swap in a new MCU. And the H1 has a nice linear regulator. The D25 is a current-limiting resistor jobber, but that’s expected at this price point I guess. Apologies for derailing a Sofirn thread, but here’s my info on the H1 (and here’s my review of the SP40 and the D25 (not D25S) for fairness/completeness).

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YogibearAl wrote:
gchart wrote:
Yup, I’ve shipped out several pre-flashed MCUs with RampingIOS (D4 V2 UI) and they are very inexpensive. Makes a decent cheap headlamp quite a bit better. Been doing the same thing with the Convoy H1 (my preference though admittedly slightly more expensive).

For me to H1 will work but for friends that may not have li-ion chargers then the USB charging of the SP40 works good. So with a preflashed MCU, you just desolder the old one and replace with new MCU. Are there instructions with images on what to replace? I’d love to give it a try. I have a SP40 and H1 on the way. Smile


I have not actually changed an MCU, but it doesnt look hard. I doubt you can unsolder it. I would use hot air or just cut the legs. Then you can solder the new one on. It is a simple remove and replace.

To remove the original and keep it intact with just a solder iron seems tricky. Maybe if you wick all the old solder out and then heat one leg at a time while lifting it up you can get it removed.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

gchart
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I remove them with a soldering iron and small flat screwdriver. While lightly prying up with the screwdriver, run the iron up and down the legs on one side until the lift up. Then grasp the MCU with tweezers and then run the iron on the other side to lift it up completely. It’s not too bad.

Phoneas
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Rayoui wrote:
Barry0892 wrote:
SP36 Anduril LH351D 2700K

Ooh, that sounds very nice.

I like this too!

Barry0892
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I uploaded emitters on website, https://sofirnlight.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/emitters

sorry that there are no pictures yet, but you know what you are buying.

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My new Facebook account: https://www.facebook.com/barry.dong.9250

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Barry0892 wrote:
I uploaded emitters on website, https://sofirnlight.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/emitters

sorry that there are no pictures yet, but you know what you are buying.

Cool , and good prices too Smile

Edit: just one 5000K 3V XHP50.2 in stock, I was planning on 4 Innocent

Wieselflinkpro
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Hi Barry,

Thank you verry much for offering such emitters!

But are you shure these XHP50.2 are real 5000K emitters?
Do you have an order code or exact binning of these emitters?

I have bought some of them from cutter.au binned in 3B color tint and they are warmer and less green than on my Astrolux EC01 5000K, which is produced in your factory.

Look here for the emitters from cutter.au please: https://www.cutter.com.au/product/xhp50b-00-0000-0a00j4051/
I have ordered these: XHP50B-00-0000-0A00J4051

djozz wrote:
Barry0892 wrote:
I uploaded emitters on website, https://sofirnlight.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/emitters

sorry that there are no pictures yet, but you know what you are buying.

Cool , and good prices too Smile

Edit: just one 5000K 3V XHP50.2 in stock, I was planning on 4 Innocent

TexasToasted
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Barry0892 wrote:
I uploaded emitters on website, "https://sofirnlight.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/emitters":https://sofirnlight.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/emitters sorry that there are no pictures yet, but you know what you are buying.
My browsers and router do not like your new website-

Warning: Potential Security Risk Ahead Firefox detected a potential security threat and did not continue to sofirnlight.com. If you visit this site, attackers could try to steal information like your passwords, emails, or credit card details. What can you do about it? The issue is most likely with the website, and there is nothing you can do to resolve it. If you are on a corporate network or using anti-virus software, you can reach out to the support teams for assistance. You can also notify the website’s administrator about the problem. Learn more… Websites prove their identity via certificates. Firefox does not trust this site because it uses a certificate that is not valid for sofirnlight.com. Error code: SEC_ERROR_UNKNOWN_ISSUER View Certificate 

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TexasToasted wrote:

Barry0892 wrote:
I uploaded emitters on website, https://sofirnlight.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/emitters sorry that there are no pictures yet, but you know what you are buying.
My browsers and router do not like your new website-

Warning: Potential Security Risk Ahead Firefox detected a potential security threat and did not continue to sofirnlight.com. If you visit this site, attackers could try to steal information like your passwords, emails, or credit card details. What can you do about it? The issue is most likely with the website, and there is nothing you can do to resolve it. If you are on a corporate network or using anti-virus software, you can reach out to the support teams for assistance. You can also notify the website’s administrator about the problem. Learn more… Websites prove their identity via certificates. Firefox does not trust this site because it uses a certificate that is not valid for sofirnlight.com. Error code: SEC_ERROR_UNKNOWN_ISSUER View Certificate 

You should update your system. sofirnlight.com uses a Let’s Encrypt certificate that is widely used today.

sunsethiker
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What are the chances of getting Sofirn to release an updated version of the Q8 with Andruril and onboard charging?

I know the SP36 has these features but not the run times nor the throw.The mounting holes in the Q8 are nice also.

andychrist
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sunsethiker wrote:
What are the chances of getting Sofirn to release an updated version of the Q8 with Andruril and onboard charging?

I know the SP36 has these features but not the run times nor the throw.The mounting holes in the Q8 are nice also.

Yeah! And 4000K-5000K as well please.

pennzy
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Everything with charging for me.

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Sofirn has previously made improvements to most of their lights. Is Sofirn working on any changes or improvements to the Q8?

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They announced the Anduril Q8 version yesterday: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1627640#comment-1627640

https://sofirnlight.com/products/blf-q8-anduril-led-flashlight

Appears to be: No USB charging, same LED's I guess, new battery level indicator on side switch.

 

 

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YogibearAl
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Yeap. Saw it the other day and had to do a double take. Pretty cool. Hope they adjusted the thermal settings for the q8. Wish they added built in charging though.

dorpmuller
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I'll be interested if it shows up on their Amazon store. 

"I am the flashlight king! I can light anything!"

Hugh Johnson
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YogibearAl wrote:
Yeap. Saw it the other day and had to do a double take. Pretty cool. Hope they adjusted the thermal settings for the q8. Wish they added built in charging though.

What thermal improvements are you looking for? I’ve haven’t identified such a need.

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I’ve read that there are some flashlights that use versions of Andruil made for other flashlights, so they may end up having an early drop off from turbo without the light getting warm? I guess you could go in and reconfigure it afterwards. Just wondering how much they tested with the settings specifically for the Q8.

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TK already had special config files for the Q8 with the proper thermal settings. Of course that doesn't mean Sofirn actually used it, but hoping Barry got the firmware from TK directly for the Q8, so would be guaranteed.

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I see what you mean. You hope they updated Anduril for the Q8.

I originally thought you were looking for a thermal improvement from Narsil.

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Yea, best I can tell, Sofirn has previously sold only 2 Anduril lights: The SP36 and LT1. Most likely 1 of 2 possibilities:

  • they used the SP36 firmware on the Q8 as-is
  • or they got the latest Anduril build from TK specifically for the Q8

Her thermal regulation algorithms are tweaked according to how the host can handle the heat - basically will it react faster or slower. The FW3A needs fast response because there's not much thermal mass considering the amps/LED's, while the Q8 has decent amount of mass for it's amps/LEDs.

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I don’t know what code Sofirn used on the new Q8.

However, I’ve been rewriting all the thermal code (and voltage and ADC) over the past couple months, because some changes I made in November made the thermal response get a bit weird. Basically, I did a pretty large rewrite to fix some bugs which had been hanging around a long time, and the rewrite messed up the thermal behavior on some lights. So I rewrote that too.

I’ve finally got it at a point where it pretty much “just works” on every light I’ve tried it on, whether that’s a tiny hot rod or a large and more moderately-driven light… whether it’s 1, 2, or 3 power channels… and whether it’s regulated or direct-drive or a hybrid.

Anyway, here are the test results for a BLF Q8:

It may look odd, but the curve is pretty close to ideal for this type of light. It could be a little smoother, but the jagged parts aren’t actually visible during use. Each adjustment is pretty slow and gradual, and only looks steep due to the amount of time which passed during measurement.

The output gets higher as the voltage drops because of how linear drivers work. When the input voltage is high (full battery), there’s a big difference between that and the output voltage, so the difference is burned off as heat. But when the two voltages are close together (low battery), there’s less heat and it can instead produce more light. So it gets brighter as the battery drops, because it’s attempting to maintain a constant temperature.

During the entire graph, output sags over time because it’s running direct-drive, and if it was water-cooled it would produce a curve identical to the battery’s discharge curve. Basically, it keeps sagging more and more quickly as the charge drops. The algorithm then fights against that to keep output and temperature from falling too much.

Then near the end it reaches its highest level and the direct-drive decay curve takes over until low-voltage protection kicks in.

The code isn’t published yet, but that should be resolved very soon because I’m nearly done running tests.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I don’t know what code Sofirn used on the new Q8.

However, I’ve been rewriting all the thermal code (and voltage and ADC) over the past couple months, because some changes I made in November made the thermal response get a bit weird. Basically, I did a pretty large rewrite to fix some bugs which had been hanging around a long time, and the rewrite messed up the thermal behavior on some lights. So I rewrote that too.

I’ve finally got it at a point where it pretty much “just works” on every light I’ve tried it on, whether that’s a tiny hot rod or a large and more moderately-driven light… whether it’s 1, 2, or 3 power channels… and whether it’s regulated or direct-drive or a hybrid.

Anyway, here are the test results for a BLF Q8:

It may look odd, but the curve is pretty close to ideal for this type of light. It could be a little smoother, but the jagged parts aren’t actually visible during use. Each adjustment is pretty slow and gradual, and only looks steep due to the amount of time which passed during measurement.

The output gets higher as the voltage drops because of how linear drivers work. When the input voltage is high (full battery), there’s a big difference between that and the output voltage, so the difference is burned off as heat. But when the two voltages are close together (low battery), there’s less heat and it can instead produce more light. So it gets brighter as the battery drops, because it’s attempting to maintain a constant temperature.

During the entire graph, output sags over time because it’s running direct-drive, and if it was water-cooled it would produce a curve identical to the battery’s discharge curve. Basically, it keeps sagging more and more quickly as the charge drops. The algorithm then fights against that to keep output and temperature from falling too much.

Then near the end it reaches its highest level and the direct-drive decay curve takes over until low-voltage protection kicks in.

The code isn’t published yet, but that should be resolved very soon because I’m nearly done running tests.

Nice! Eagerly awaiting the hex files so can try flashing on my Q8…

ToyKeeper
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d_t_a wrote:
Eagerly awaiting the hex files so can try flashing on my Q8…

I don’t consider it “stable” yet because it hasn’t had much testing… but if you don’t mind using brand new versions which have large and not-widely-tested changes, they’re on my dev builds page.

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